LOL when the psi went to 9 on the new one. We all groaned too.

I believe that because you do as much trouble-shooting as you do is what has drawn me to your channel. Too much of the time many (so-called) techs will just replace parts rather than wonder "why this is happening in the first place!" So keep on doing what you do and you will continue to educate all who watch your channel. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.

Found your channel by accident. Fascinating discussions, and the reason why good mechanics are worthy their weight in gold.

I'm a retired Deputy Sheriff and love watching your videos. Better then any T.V. series. Keep up the great work. Guess I could learn from a great guy like you. I have been so sick with this Dementia since retiring, but would love to turn some wrenches and get the satisfaction of bring things back to life. God Bless

I’ll never understand the people who give a dislike to your videos, keep up the great work man!

The worst problems are those that are 1) intermittent, 2) occur when there are two or more systems involved, and 3) having fixed the issue, you're not 100% positive that it was your work and not some self-resolving thing that caused the fix. Always, always fun hanging Mustie!!

*Mustie1* Man, you're great. I watch every video like it's my favorite show on TV back in the day.

In the mid '70's, I installed water injection kits on my tow truck, pickup, and personal vehicles and inline, pressure regulators. The regulator were about 3.5"X1.5"X.75" and they were adjustable. I got them from Custom Automotive in Dallas, an automotive performance supply company. I have no idea as to whether those things are still available, but with the net, it might be worth a try. I think they would solve you problem. I had one of the larger transmission companies in Dallas from 1969 to 1990. I am now in my mid eighties and I really enjoy your trouble shooting video's. You are very talented. I also do repairs on small engines, but it's kind of a hobby/pastime thing... not a job. Thank you for the videos.

i too enjoy your train of thought and subsequent ability to convey possible solutions, a real joy to watch each and every episode

From working on antique vehicles, tractors, mowers etc since the 60's the solid needle and seat was common on the older carbs. In the installation instructions that came with the kits along with in the factory manuals it stated that after cleaning the carb and seat the replacement needle would need to be mated to the seat to prevent fuel seepage. To do this it instructed you to place the needle into the seat place a flat punch on the back of the needle and hit it with a small hammer multiple times while rotating the needle between hits. This process mates the needle to the seat preventing fuel seapage.

Learned a lot about the the fuel system in this one. Nice work and thanks for taking the time to explain you thought process and each step.

Long video, but love the no quit McGyver approach going down swingin’ until something works. And I learned a little as currently suffering the gas flooding issue.

The fuel pressure is extreme for a small engine with a carburetor. I enjoyed the diagnosis investigation and would agree with your findings right down the line.

This man is tenacious! Good job 👍

Thanks for taking the pains of trying to troubleshoot this tractor and video at the same time. Glad the problem seemed to work out at the end.

Success or failure, I always learn from you!

Gotta hit "like" on this one (and part 1) because it is so honest and real. More power to you Mustie.

Excellent! I have a dozen projects lined up for this Saturday morning. And your video has hindered my start. But it was worth it.

Hi from Nottingham UK I have learned so much from watching your videos. I enjoy every minute too. I also think a fuel shut off switch is the way to go on this one.

Release the Shmoo!!! I always thought you would appreciate Uncle B. Your channel is great, definitely learned a lot and has helped me with a few small engine repairs. Many thanks and keep up the great work!

Man, I like all of your videos, but I loved this one! You know so much about engines which is made apparent from your videos, but this helps ME feel a little more normal. I feel like this is the story of my life sometimes. Trying one thing after another chasing fixes and beating myself up for either not finding the fix or for taking so long to do it. I'm relieved to see someone so knowledgeable go through similar struggles. Please don't ever edit out the struggles.

Thumbs up Mustie......you’re a genius and thanks for allowing us to wrench with you love your channel!

Found a pressure washer on the side of the road. I feel like I'm about to make a will it run mustie1 video only not filming. Keep doing what your doing man we love your videos and the time you put into your work. There's no one like you mustie!!!🤘

I took small engine repair in high school and watching your videos makes me think of easier days, maybe I will start doing it again after I retire from my law enforcement job

A real head scratcher! Great vid as always, love your channel!

Your so clever Mustie 😊 Love watching your fixing videos 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

my hats off to Mustie1 awesome troubleshooter, mechanic, fabricator, builder, person, etc. Thanks for the vids!!

Years ago our local bank called to see if I could fix their small street sweeper. They said it was flooded. It had a two cylinder Onan engine. Their definition of flooded was slightly different from mine. It was under six feet of flood water. I changed all the fluids and it ran fine. While delivering it, they asked me to check out their generator. It was powered by a 300 CI Ford engine, also under that six feet of water. They had changed the oil but it was liquid locked. Pulled the plugs and turned it over. It shot oily water all the car next to it. Dried out the plugs, reinstalled them and it started right up. Unfortunately, most of the oil had floated up into the overhead exhaust system, which started smoking, setting off the fire alarm. Never a dull day as a mechanic!

As always, I am astonished by your ingenuity. You make things work in ways I would never even dream about. BTW, some of the old Carter Quadrojets of the 60s had brass to brass needle valves & seats, but they were replaceable as a kit.

With working for the dealers for over 20 years, repairs have been reduced to fast only service. When it comes to true in depth repairs, the skill set has been so reduced. Its nice to have found your channel. I have really enjoyed watching your videos. You can catch me doing the exact same thing on my weekends. Fixing stuff the dealers cant, and finding stuff on the side of the rd and being able to put back into service instead of the landfills is gradifying.

This video feels much more like my own experience when I try to get something to run right. I once threw a weed whacker like a javelin a cross my yard and it punched a hole in my neighbors shed.

Love your thought process on these type of videos.

Keep up the good work, I really enjoy watching you work on things, one thing, I know on water you gain approx. 1 psi for every 2 vertical ft. but it does not make any difference weather you have a hose full of liquid going up or a hose going up to a tank full of liquid, I learned that in the fire service in relation to a water tank up in the air like you see everywhere, good luck,

I love your videos I learned so much thanks

I’ve had the same problem on briggs&Stratton engines and never been able to stop the carb flooding through to the crank case. My solution in the end was a fuel on/off shut off. Wait till the engine stalls after shutting off the fuel. This cured the problem but took a while to get into the habit of switching it off. Great channel.

Check the float bowl vent. If the bowl can't breathe and have atmospheric pressure above the fuel pool the whole carb turns into a syphon through the main jet and out the throat of the carb.

Fantastic video. I love the fact that you really want to get the root of problems, not just throw parts at it. So much to learn here and every one of your videos. Please keep them coming. I just worked on a JD with a Kohler and they have a solenoid shutoff on the bottom of the bowl that blocks fuel when the engine is OFF, maybe that could be added. As to the discussions about the static or dynamic pressure of the pump, I think that without a RETURN line, except for the VENT (which you wouldn't want always venting), there would be no way for the pump to relieve pressure in a STATIC mode. I think?????

Always interesting, always instructional.

Man, I´ve been watching like 30 of your videos. For me it started with my mothers lawn mover that behaved weird and I found your channel that totally explained how a Briggs and Stratton engine works. You are amazing, thank you! (What kind of a bad ass high pressure washer do you use, it´s amazing). Greetings from Sweden! Keep up the good work! :)

I work on auto carb big hp holley and the most pressure for one of them is 4 lbs max I usually keep them between 3. To 3.5 at best for gas but for hi fuels alil less great video tho you have the best videos....even tho I get your videos late I still think you have the best ones

Great video. Your diagnosis skills are superb.

Patience maximus, thanks Mustie... I would have been swearing like a sailor .

Good job fixing someone else’s garbage. Good video.

I love your troubleshooting logic. Reminds me of myself! :D

I'm all about fixing things the right way. I think though in the situation you are in, I would simply put in a fuel cut off and saved the money. It runs fine, performs well, just seems to be at shut down or low idle when the problem occurs. So don't idle it so low and a fuel cut off switch would solve the problem. I know that's not really fixing it though. I love watching your vids. I love spending time watching you wrench around on stuff. I learn a thing or 2 almost every vid. Thanks for sharing with us.

Had the same issue with a 15.5HP Kohler Command on a Craftsman tractor. Gas in the oil and leaking though the lower pan gasket. Replaced the needle and cleaned the seat, or so I thought. Didn't work. Short answer - put a fuel shut off between the tank and the carb. Works like a champ.

I was just working on a 345 john deere which also has a liquid cooled twin kawasaki similar to your engine and it has a viton tipped needle. and dawned on me that your needle you been showing is steel tip.. and so I looked up your tractor and in the parts diagram it shows it being a viton tipped needle as well. part number is M95924 ..not sure anyone will see this comment as it kinda seems like I am shadow banned on the youtubes..

Just watched this one again, Reminded me of a problem we had with a generator.The generator was mounted on a motor home chassis.There was an electric fuel pump from vehicle fuel tank to Generator.Same problem generator engine filing up with fuel.Electric fuel pump was made so pressure could be adjusted,but at lowest setting we still had too much fuel pressure.Ww bought a pressure regulator set it at around two psi installed it between pump and carb.Worked out fine even with a full load on the generator.

Genius on the fuel pressure diagnosis !

Good old John deer keep up the great videos

My motor cycle Kaw 500 has a fuel valve that opens only when vacuum is sensed from the system. No vacuum no fuel. you can buy a generic one that might help forgetful people like me (turning the fuel off) in a compensated fix for this. Very good video and persistent trouble shooting job. Thanks bunches. Sorry for all of us that we still wonder for sure what the problem is. Vent plugged? fuel pump body cracked? Who knows? With all that said this video and along with the comments was very educational.

Great video...thank you Mustie

Excellent Saturday morning entertainment!!

Add fuel injection and a supercharger lol.. But seriously. I'd convert it to a vacuum operated fuel pump. Make a block off plate with a vacuum line connection and run it on a Briggs or Kohler fuel pump. The stock carb has a spring loaded needle. I'm guessing that the spring gets weakest after a while of holding back 8 9 psi and eventually the liquid wins the battle until it won't seat correctly. Converting the needle helps but the plastic the needle sits on can't push back with enough force to maintain a decent seal. You've probably got a Briggs or Kohler fuel pump in the hoard if you want to experiment with it. That's my thinking on the problem anyway. That's just too much pressure. Probably a design flaw and with yard equipment changing over the years they probably went to a different system a few years later. I'd look into how that engine evolved and what they did to it. It's an interesting problem.

hello mustie 1 another good video to watch always look forward for another video

Looks like a nice piece of kit, usual fun clip of you bringing us into your world of “fixing”, now, was that Chip or Dale at the end 🐿😁

I had this same issue with an old Mikuni carburetor. I made my own rubber gasket with a standard rotary hole punch and shoved it up against the seat. Then I adjusted the 'tab' on the float to level and it works great. No leak. I still put the fuel valve to 'off' though.

So damn smart and logical it’s amazing. Also very interesting and fun guy to watch and listen to... Mike

Ive had success lapping metal needle and seats together. Put a piece of rubber tubing on the other end of the needle and lap them together using normal lapping compound just like you would a valve.

You could put a thicker seal between the pump and engine to get a lower fuel pressure. Thats what we do on old Volvo engines. I love to see your videos.

That's interesting nine psi on a lawn tractor when you got the new carb did it work thank you for sharing this six stars brother

If the supply is 1/4". Put a T in the high pressure line and have a 3/16" return line to the tank. Then you will supply the fuel, yet when it shuts down the pressure will equalize on the return line

Might want to check fuel pressure with a tee in the line from pump to carb - pump is deadheadded just going into the pressure gauge. Fuel usage by the carb should let the gauge show the pressure difference between idle and full throttle. We used to put high volume high pressure fuel pumps on vehicles back in the days of 'vapor lock'. This many times resulted in the same symptoms, flooding on idle and flooding after shut down. We would put a brass tee in the line by the carb, solder one leg full and then drill a 1/32" hole through the solder and put a return line back to the input of the fuel pump. When we got smart later, just put an inline fuel pressure regulator in it. The tee with a return orifice worked better for vapor lock, though. Great Channel! Keep it goin' !!

I was 16 minutes into your video when I commented the previous. Then as I continued to watch, you mention the gasket thickness. As I say, I feel that I in your garage with you.

Great effort..cant win em all!

Love your content!!!

In addition to a suggested solution, I would use a white lapping compound stick, sprayed with WD40. Then place a wood tooth pick in a hand drill and spin the tooth pick through the wet lapping compound to coat the tooth pick with compound mixture. Then guide the sharp end of the tooth pick into the center of the seat to polish the inside of the hole. Then I would place some of the compound mixture onto a old flat ice cream stick (eat the ice cream first to calm the nerves) and place the needle into the drill and spin it on the stick at the angle of the needle to polish it. Thank you and keep doing the videos.

The spring-loaded needle head is an integral part of the system; as the high fuel pressure fills the bowl, it compounds the closing force of the needle, so as not to rely soley on the buoyancy of the float to hold it closed. I suspect there is another passage between the float chamber and throttle body- that's allowing fuel to flood the cylinder(s).

i have the same issue w my kobota kawasaki v twin liquid cooled, THANK YOU!

Re-watching all my favourite KZfaqrs because of the Coronavirus lockdown.

Great video as always you can get adjustable fuel pressure regulators not sure how good they are but might extend the life of your new carb. Don’t know if you can try lapping the carb seat and valve against each other rather than separately, know it’s gonna be fiddly but I’m sure you could do it if anyone can

A cam probably pushes a lever in the fuel pump. The distance of the internal cam and the lever in the pump is controlled by the distance there is between the two. This may be controlled by the gasket thickness between the flanges. The thicker the gasket, the less push on the pump lever, thus a lower pump pressure.. This is also a problem found on diesel engine fuel pumps and the only way to control it is by the thickness of the gasket. This is SOP. Thanks for your videos, I enjoy them very much.

I had the same engine in a Kubota with the same problem. I wound up putting an electric in-line fuel pump on it. Had governor and water pump problems as well. Just looking at this brought up a ton of repressed memories. PTSD?

Mechanical fuel pumps don't have a separate pressure regulator - the diaphragm return spring does both the pumping and regulates the pressure, while the engine only pushes the diaphragm down for the intake stroke and lets the return spring set the pressure. If the fuel flow is low or stopped then the diaphragm remains down with the spring providing the pressure on the fuel, and keeping the lever away from the camshaft. It only pumps as demand requires, a pretty ingenious design. That said, if you could disassemble the pump you could shorten the return spring to get a lower pressure.

Yep Mustie1 you showed me that valves may have little “hats” on the ends. On our Green Machine it was off and hiding inside the little chamber. Had I not watched you fix the single cylinder motor, my know-it-all acquaintance would have reassembled after a classic overheating “wide bolt gap” gasket blow out without finding and refitting yonder little hardened steel valve stem cap. Thanks Mustie1 from Down Under.

I enjoy your riding lawn mower videos. I like to see one on a 2000 John Deere Sabre 14.5/38 INTEK OHV Briggs and Stratton.

I admire your patience, I'd have taken a hammer to that long before now

back feeding that's nuts u r the man !!!! edbonjovi love trouble shooting !!!!

I probably would have put an inline electric solenoid fuel shut off wired to the ignition circuit and called it a day. I applaud your tenacity :).

Mustie1, if it keeps playing up, put a "T" on the output of the pump and connect a tube back to the tank top , that will stop the over active pump lol :-D

I know it's late but, I solved a similar problem by installing an electric 2 psi pump located below the fuel bowl. Solved both problems for about $20.

Shouldn't be metal to metal. I have a Briggs I/C kit that had directions and optional needles and seats for pumped or gravity setup. The rubber needle tip is for a gravity only also. Correct Needle girth keeps it aligned to the hole. Fought 3 before I figured it out

I agree- 9 psi seems like quite a lot, for a lawn tractor. Kind of expected to see a bypass return line, coming from the pump.

It seems like the original fuel pump, messed up the needle, and or seat, by forcing way too much gas through it, while the needle and seat was trying to hold the fuel back. Once again I enjoyed the elimination process and had a couple laughs with you. What you are experiencing is a process put into practice back in the seventies, I think. It was called "engineered obsolescence". The idea was, if manufacturers built crappy parts, it would provide more jobs. Much to the frustration of many a home mechanic, I thing they succeeded. :-)

22:00 I know this vid is old and it might have been adressed since, but instead of heating up the plastic tab, you could try bending a metal plate around the tip of the scewdriver to form it, and then slide it over the plastic tab. Make a shim that holds itself on there. then you can try different thicknesses until you find one that fits the job.. :) even a zip tie of correct thickness around the tab might do the job?

Might be a silly question, but have you ever considered rigging up a exhaust tube fan setup like fire departments run for sucking out fumes directly from an exhaust pipe? Might be a savior on really hot/cold days. Seems like you could rig something up with some aluminum flex venting and a decent fan.

I had to replace the carb on a couple tractors that have done that. You have a great find there. Thats a Nascar series John Deere, and they are getting hard to find.

hi they make a fuel regulator to make your car more fuel economy you could use one of these and can alter the pressure down to what you want or a air regulator like on your spray gun or air line hope this gives you some other things to go at keep the videos coming thanks john

Cool video...thanks for posting

My Toro zero turn had the same problem. I took pictures of the seat with my phone and then blew them up. It was easy to see the details of the seat. It almost looked like someone had gone in with a tiny screwdriver and made a perfect rectangular score on both sides of the seat directly across from one another. I put a piece of 1/8 steel rod in my lathe and ground a taper on it that matched the angle of the needle. If you don't have a lathe you could use a drill in a vise to do it too. I polished the tip of the rod so it wasn't too rough, then put it in the drill and with a little rubbing compound on it, spun it in the seat until the scores were gone. Pit it back together, and hasn't leaked since. I wish I could find a mower like that for $320.00.

If you get that needle to work your the man. I could try that a dozen times with 12 fails

Release the Schmoo! an aVe fan! sweet.

I admire your persistence. The only difference between you and a pit bull is that the pit bull will eventually let go.

That's why John deers cost so much I see now why...nice video

I have solved this twice by fitting Briggs carbs which have no float valve. Not very tidy. But I had good luck with a pump system recently, by fitting a tee at the carb inlet and routing a large diameter return-to-tank, looping up to a point higher than the carb and tank. Essentially, your gravity feed tank, replenished by the pump.

Mustie, on the needle valve for the John deere, I would try polishing a sharper point on the needle with a sharpening stone, where it would go further up in the seat, or try a pulse type pump. You would have to put a pulse tube coming out of the valve cover. Or put a bypass on the fuel line with a control valve back to the fuel tank to bleed some of the pressure off of the fuel pump. Just some suggestions I came up with.

You could do your own fuel pressure regulator with a brass fitting,, drill a step on the inside, put a ball and spring to suit and connect it to bypass the pressure back to the input side of the pump.

Just a thought on the fuel pump pressure... you could try to backfeed the output back into the input with a Y connector to relieve the pressure to the carb

That is a nice unit. You can drop it at my place any time. :-0) Thinking a shut off would help. Excellent job. Jim

Same problem with a fairly new cub cadet. Added a fuel shutoff, no more problem.