tear down of the compressor head is here, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mKuXhtN1v5e6p5s.html

I'm curious how the old one looks inside. Please take it apart! :-)

Of COURSE we have to see inside! :) Just cuz!

I've got a "fittings box", it has every single type and size of fitting you can imagine. Except the one I happen to be looking for.

Hey Mustie, I have to say thank you!! You have inspired me to get old junk up and running like new again. So far I have resurrected a 2002 XR80R, a 1973 ATC70 and I am working on 2 Yamaha Maxims (1980 and 1981)... And this is just in the last few months. I have always loved tinkering but now I am making something good out of it all.

The ten year old boy in me just burst into a fit of giggles when you turned the compressor by hand and it farted and groaned. Most I have laughed in a month. Thanks Darren. Great video too well done.

You have to tear down the bad compressor assy so we can see what failed... Happy Easter and great show as always!

Mustie1, I appreciate you doing these videos on air compressors and the ones on generators too. I’m having problems with both of mine, and this gives Me new things to look for. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and videos sir

I've been going watching your channel. You remind me of my grandfather, in a good way. 😬 You're an old school mechanic. Your troubleshooting technique is something everyone can learn from. Thank you for sharing.

And definitely tear the old one apart. Plus maybe put the guard back on, safety third.

Hi, Here in the Netherlands it was already 2 in the afternoon (assuming we are 6hrs ahead) A new mustie1 video still is a welcome supprise though. Following your videos for over a year now, thanks for all your effords and the entertainment it brought me. much appreciated. Ohhh and by the way ..... I also would like to see the old compressor getting "analised" . Cheers Hans

Love the videos..that small copper tubing from the tank (check valve) to the pressure switch is to bleed off the pressure on the pump. to reduce the current draw back on start up and keep pressure off the pump head.

That's a serious belt collection, Mustie! Thanks for another great vid.

It's called an unloader valve to keep head pressure off the compressor. Great videos, love the channel.

Nice video. I think its exellent that you'll delve into such a variety of different projects. One day a trail 70, the next a piston air compressor. Truly a man after my own heart. Keep up the good work.

Hey man, I am a computer engineer and service dog trainer from Ontario Canada, I watch and enjoy ALL of your videos! Thanks so much for making them!

It is such a pleasure to watch your videos. Thanks again.

Of course you can, no question about it. Thanks for sharing

Please make another video about what happened to the old one. Thank you for making this video

I think I would reduce the size of the motor pully. That pully is running the hell out of that compressor.

Great video. I've been all over YT and can honetly say yours has a ton of important information in one place that took a lot of videos amd time for me to gather and entertaining to boot. Thank you very much!! I recently picked up a Speedaire 5 horse 80 gallon compressor really cheap! It looked to be in good shape other than being stored outside for a few months after moving from their shop. I got it home and after a helluva time getting it off my truck solo (do not reccomend) I learned it was a 3 phase motor -whoops. So I turned to Amazon and 5hp single PH. That's where I learned about the importance of pulley sizing and some about wiring, plumbing, NPT/flare/compression etc, offloader tubes, one way check valves, cut on/off windows, Pump PSI specs,etc. Fired up and the Pump had Rod Knock from hell, so Harbor Freight for a single stage 2 piston 5HP 150 PSI pump. Im about to fire it up literally minutes away but a previous obligation is in the way so I have to wait just a little but longer. Thank you for the video had I found it sooner I'd be done by now haha

Seeing the old stuff taken apart and trying to get working again is one of the best things.

Looks like a 3450 RPM motor. Wonder if the replacement compressor is intended to run at 1740 RPM. Regardless, you should go much smaller on the motor pulley and slow it down to make it last.....

Thanks for the reminder to drain the condensation...I haven't done mine in a while. Been using it a lot lately. It's a tiny compressor but it fits the bill in my garage.

My eye goes to the nice trail 70 you have on the lift. My neighbor used to have one and I always wished I had one. Love it!

Hi Mustie another great video as always. You've been a great inspiration for me to get back to work on the projects I've neglected due to depression and other personal issues. Anyway yes I'd like to see you disassemble the other compressor. Kind regards Paul Rawcliffe from Perth Western Australia 🇦🇺.

Happy Easter. Your work is always the best way to open the morning.

The first thing I thought of when I saw that huge pulley on the motor was "He better change that out so it doesn't trash that older compressor."😮 Sounds much better with the smaller pulley. If that motor is turning 3600, your compressor is probably around 17-1800 now (which is still a little fast, but not too dramatic). It should survive as long as you use a good synthetic air compressor oil that isn't affected by heat. You ought to drill a couple pieces of 1 1/2" x 1/8" strap steel and weld 2 pieces of 3/8" all-thread to them and weld a piece of 1" angle iron, the width of the motor/compressor mounting plate, to the motor end and drill it for the all-thread. This will allow you to adjust the belt tension without fighting with screwdrivers and such through the mounting slots. I hate that they don't put some sort of adjusting apparatus on those cheap compressors from the factory. Ingersoll-Rand, Craftsman, DeVilbiss, etc. all come from the same factory in China or Taiwan now and they just slap the appropriate decals on them.😜 Overall, it ought run fairly trouble-free for a few years at least. Hopefully that motor isn't partially cooked inside where you can't see it. Time will tell...

A postmortem is always interesting. Might even be interesting to see if it's repairable since it apparently hasn't thrown the rod yet; although the rod and crank are probably galled beyond reuse. Great video and repair!

Please take the old one apart im curious what the inside looks like, by the way first time comments on mustie1 channel

I just watched 47 minutes of you fixing this compressor. Of course we want to see you tear apart the old one. We’re all curious now.

Fascinating never had time to play with compressors always wanted to! Enjoyed all the of useful insights into how and why problems can occur. Yes to a teardown of the old unit always interesting to know how and why things fail, regards R

Hi there, great video, as always. A thought on the connection of the compressor pump to the copper tubing would be to use a nipple at the pump to move the elbow (f x f) to give you more access to oil filler. Thanks for the all the education!!

Please take it apart, sounds like a broken connecting rod :)

"Oil was too clean to see..." Try this: Wipe down the dip stick, then reinsert it to get the oil level on the stick. Pull the stick out and lay it sideways against a paper towel. The oil will mark the towel and it'll be 100% readable. Sometimes really old oil in an old engine looks really clean because the junk has settled out over years of storage.

Got to know. Both how it works and what is the fault/faults. Great video, Very interesting.

I saw that flash at 1:12 and thought "That's not good". But the connecters weren't real snug. Interesting video. I've learned so much from you. Yes, time to tear down!

Nice repair. Yup, tear the old one down. Happy Easter!

The ring you fitted to the pipe and tighten up on is called an Olive in UK , as usual an excellent video..!..!

The Bob Ross of repair jobs. I love watching your videos.

Great save. Your friend should be very happy. Would like to see the damaged unit opened up. And would love to see your friend setting up their garage.

While you was at HomeD you should have picked up the power cord plug too. lol

Easy way to check the pulley alignment is to get a length of straight, threaded rod (say M6/M8 1/4" 3/8"). Lay it in the V of the bigger pulley on the point of balance. Then tap it until it falls towards and into the smaller V pulley. That will accurately allow you to adjust the alignment.

The number of fittings and belts you have hanging around is amazing.

I vote for three things. 1) Measure the actual head temperature of this compressor. The running temperature can make a huge difference in its longevity. 2) A still smaller pulley on the motor on this compressor. It sounds like it is spinning a lot faster than most compressors I hear. 3) Don't leave curiosity hanging. Tear down the other compressor to see what the failure is. You will always wonder if you don't! Don't drive yourself crazy that way!

Hands down my favorite channel on KZfaq

That looks a big diameter pulley on the motor, might be too fast for the compressor.

Worked for a factory loading/mixing coffee beans for roasting, one of the loader's job responsibilities was dumping the water from the compressor. It's amazing how fast that bucket would fill up in the summer time. :)

I really enjoyed this video. I loved the way you fixed your heater that was Awesome. Thank you.

The pulley on the motor seems way too large I think it's running the compressor too fast

If you measure the circumference of the old pulleys and divide one by the other it'll give you a ratio you can use to find the correct sized motor pulley, but I think you got it just about right.

Great video, as always. I agree with the other comments that the motor looks like it's a 3450 RPM and turning the pump too fast. That would explain why the other pump died. I've worked on a number of Quincy compressors, all of which had a maximum pump speed of 900 RPM. Look up the pump RPM specs, change the pulleys, and you have a keeper.

Love your videos. You make it work where most give up. I used to live in Westford as a kid. Notice the tags on the cars. Loved the small diesel and this one.

Yes - open it up. Also, put a street ell on the drain and extend the drain out the side. Get rid of that petcock and put in a ball valve.

Bagel with butter & cream cheese $3.50 cup of coffee $ 1.29 . Sunday morning wrenchin' on stuff with Mustie1 - Priceless. God bless the USA ! P.S opener up Mustie1 !

Enjoyed this video ! I have a similar air compressor project to do . A craftsman air compressor with a motor ( data plate ) that reads Packard - a division of General Motors so it will be interesting to see if I can get it going . It was given to me by a friend . Her husband passed away a few years ago and it was sitting in her barn . It would sure be nice to have it done ! Enjoyed your video for sure .

Goes to home Depo to buy a 90 degree copper elbow, doesn't purchase a power plug... steps on power lead pulling wires out... Hahaha, Just found the channel, Subbed and binge watching.. Now i feel like fixing my air compressor, engine, and having a look at our generators if we still have them. Great video mate.

gotta love a bit of good old percussive maintenance on rattles and noises

The drive pulley needs to be even smaller Darren. RPM on most compressor heads is 850rpm. Just sayin. Zip~

I retired my bike shop and have a couple of hacks for you, every shop has its 'secret sauce' for cleaning carbs, I use Alconox it was developed to clean tatoo equipment, I get it on ebay a couple of tablespoons in the ultrasonic, leaves no residue. To put new rubbers, handlebar grips, intake manifolds just spray insides with carb cleaner slides on like fresh snot.

That’s better!!! Sounds like the familiar throb of a perfect gearing ratio 👌🏻

I'm on the sparkie side of things and I was hoping you'd pull off the cables trim them and reterminate. I guess that isn't as exciting as the mechanical stuff!

Most compressors run about 900 - 1200 rpm. The older cast iron pumps ran slower to last longer and let their larger valves work better. I don't hear the unloader hiss when pressure switch shuts off. That will unload pressure in the 'svc loop above the check valve and allow the motor to start the pump without running against the tank pressure on the valves.

With a piston compressor head, direction only matters for cooling. Rotation is converted from a rotary motion, to a reciprocating motion by the crank. So, it's up and down for the piston no matter what direction you turn the crank. The reed valves will only allow the air to flow in one direction in any case. I have built a number of these compressors using piston type air conditioning compressors from vehicles. They are very powerful and work well as long as you regulate them (the electromagnetic clutch makes this really easy using just a standard compressor pressure switch), and you gotta keep oil in them. They do "puke" a little oil into the outlet so mount a separator inline and an air filter on the intake. Keep in mind, these are designed for R12 pressures, so use caution. Most of these I have mounted on vehicle engines, for mobile use, but I have build some stationary one too. Nice job man.

I worked for a company where I inspected buildings we had rented and I looked at a few empty ones that had compressors chugging away merrily. They are also used in the HVAC controls of large buildings.

I love how you fixed the pellet stove ! Tear down the broken compressor head !

Nominated for best sound effects video of 2019!

Great video..chuckled at the squeeling belt that turned out to be worn out.. ROFL Reminds me of my wifes Hyundai Elantra that I can't get a belt to stop squeeling.

Yes please tear down the old compressor. Love the stove fix. Classic.

We all need to know what went wrong with it love watching your videos keep it going

yep please take the other one apart. im curious

Its great to see the boot is part of your modern tool collection😊lol😀. Great video as always THANKS MUSTIE 1

Great deal. Should work for a good long time for ya. Thanks for sharing.

Pull it apart love to know if it's crank or piston trouble shouldn't take long. Please make a Englishman happy Gary

Had a Quincy head about like yours. 800 rpm is the goal. I saw another guy said the same thing. It sounds like it is still running to fast.

I just cannot get over how quiet that compressor is. If I run over to the house and my compressor is refilling I can hear it in the kitchen facing the garage. My blows to have a compressor that quiet. I just assume all large compressors made a lot of noise. I really love how you save things from going to the recyclers.

That small pipe you were looking at (the suspected bleeder pipe) is exactly as you said. There is a one-way check-valve at the top of the tank where the air enters. When the tank is full and the power is turned off, it drains the air from the fill pipe, and from the compressor head. As you said, this drastically reduces the start-up power needed, as there is no resistance on the motor or compressor until it recharges that small pipe (which takes almost no time with the small volume).

Tear it down! Just keep the CT70 in the background so I can keep gawking at it😁🤣🤣

Of course we would like to see inside the old one... please :)

I put hydraulic lines on mine about four years ago and its still doing good. I was worried about the heat issue but it did not affect it any at all. My compressor runs every day too.

You need to fix the small air line from the governor to the air tank fitting that is supposed to dump the compressed air in the discharge line from the compressor. This dumps the air so it starts without a load on the motor which is what it was doing before you tightened the motor mount. When it shuts down you should hear a hiss of releasing air pressure from the compressor discharge line and there is a check valve that will retain the pressure in the tank. Nice find and fix. Cheers!

Good morning Darren. Happy Easter. I think the shroud will probably help with cooling.

Sweet, let's see the inside of the other one. Nothing like being under pressure for good leak!

I enjoy your videos and keep them coming very well.

what a awesome guy for fixing things up ✋

Yah right, The person you are helping out is you. LOL The new garage.

You should check the rotation of the motor and most 220/240 motors are reversible!

From what we can see, you must have THE most well equipped home workshop in the universe,, LOVE YOUR POSTS KEEP EM COMIING, ❤️from 🦘🦘🦘downunder.

Thats a beautiful ct-70 you go there in the back of the frame. Man i love those things

If I didn't say it already, love your videos man. You should use a lot of caution though, with a used compressor, particularly the tank. You need to check them for water, and rust. I have seen older tanks explode, and that would really ruin your day, especially with one that large. Take care man.

freakin' awesum wiring job !!

I have a very similar compressor that I bought used years ago. I swapped out the compressor head after the original one started showing signs it was starting to wear out. The new cast iron compressor head out performs the original aluminum head by far. I ended up buying a new pulley for the electric motor to bring the compressor RPM in spec.

Great video as always! It might be worth your while tightening the pulley system a notch or two. With the belt vibrating like that, it could build up some damage to the belt. It doesn't need to be much, just enough to take the vibration away.

I fix a lot of things by kicking them...LOL. Love your videos!

Well, the water coming out of it isn't rust coloured, so that's a good sign.

i always enjoy the Mustie Comedy Hour, with excellent mechanical pointers thrown in...

holy cow man i've watched you for along time and just realized YOUR CHANNEL HAS BLOWN UP!!!!!!!!!! 135,000 views in 2 days i bet you never imagined that a few years ago, congrats my friend!!

The motor pulley is not the Chinese original. That one is too large in diameter. Explains why original compressor blew oil and tore up. Also explains the burnt push-on lugs. The motor was drawing excessive current from being overloaded.

Please do a tear down and maybe rebuild the best channel on you tube keep it up mustie1

Enjoyed the video and appreciate the tip to look out for double set screws when taking pulleys off a shaft(12:20). Surprised that you didn’t clean the rust off of the inside of the hub of the motor pulley (14:10) after you carefully wire-brushed the motor shaft. A lot of people are visual learners, which is probably why most of us watch KZfaq, so it would help your viewers, who are following your every move, to briefly mention or show that you did tighten the set screws on the motor pulleys when you re-attached them to the motor shaft. I am not a regular viewer, so I was a little surprised that you are so casual about electrical connections - not tightening the crimps on the power connections at the regulator switch first thing, and putting loose live wires carrying a high load into a socket, instead of spending a couple of minutes attaching them to a standard plug, is beyond my understanding of the basics of personal safety in the shop. I’ve learned what little I know about such things the hard way - looks like you are luckier than most, so far. On a positive note, you are getting good results doing it your way, but skydiving would probably be safer for you.