Thanks for all the advice, guys! I know it seems like I’m just making things up as I go along, but I have followed the design plans for this beam, I have just made it oversized, and lengthened it. in my lengthy discussions with Hanneke she had told me that lag screwing the retaining blocks is the only way to go. Through bolting would weaken the cross beams which bear most of the compression loads. We can only see!

If you get the chance go back and fit washers under the head of those lag bolts.

I’ve been in the construction industry for decades, and when ever you are running lag screws through wood in order to spread the load of the head of the lag screw you should use a washer. I understand that the wood is very dense. However, it’s just better practice.😊

I’d also put some sort of thick custom fitted steel straps over the top too for extra strength.

You were probably tired Mark - but please don't pick your tools up by the power cords. Even cheap tools are expensive when you have to replace them too soon. I don't know what the build manuals say about mounting a mast - I'm sure you must have checked them, so I'm surprised to see you winging it like this.

Mark pal it breaks my heart every time I watch your videos, I wish I could take a week off and get stuck in with you. I’ve got all the tools and a fair knowledge of woodwork to make all these things you’re doing go a lot quicker. Keep it up mate, you’ll get there in the end. 👍🏻

Trust the experts who designed the boat. If they called for cleats lagged into the beams then never mind all the land-lubber critics. Keep Calm and Lag On!

"This is all I've got done in a day..." brother I FEEL THAT. When you're working a big project little things jump out at you all over the place, and time flies away when you're concentrating on an important task.

Not a good idea to carry your valuable power tools by there power cords, but you knew that already iam sure. Take care.

First moment I was afraid it was one massive piece of wood.. but then saw it was laminated LOL 😂 keep on going Mark!

The moment I knew you would complete the project is when you were working in a shed in 3" of water cutting a massive beam with a hand saw. Great work Mark. I wish you had epoxied the blocks to the beam as well as lagging them, but the rest looks good.

As a general builder I would strongly advise you not to carry your power tools by there cables. It put stress on the cable strains and could pull out of the tool itself. Look after your tools and the tools will look after you . I must say the background music is much better this time around. No muting necessary

You're working hard. The way you hold your chopsticks is correct. During this period, the weather in Tokyo continues to be comfortable.

62 euro for a rust free screw, there's definitely a Red Light District joke in there somewhere.

Nice work, next time instead of using dish soap, place a length of masking tape over the wood to provide a smooth surface.

When I use lag bolts or regular bolts in wood, I put a flat washer under the head of the bolt and drill the recess the same size as the flat washer. This spreads the clamping force over a larger area *and* keeps the lag/bolt head from gouging into the wood. :)

yeah use washers at the end of the skrew so they dont sink into the wood they are srewed in !

It's normal practice to use washers with hex head bolts in wood. The hex head without a washer digs in and under stress and flexing it cuts into the beam creating a loose fastener contact with the wood.. A washer spreads the load for stable contact and no damage when flexing. Enjoying watching your progress you inspire me to get up off my ass and do something. THANX!

Great job. Not sure what everyone is talking about as far as lag bolts versus through bolts. Have a look at the massive Polynesian voyaging canoes that are still lashed together with cordage.

You should add some washers to those lag bolts.

Chipping of the Douglas Fir is something you have to expect. It's good wood for construction, but easily chips away. I'm from the land where Douglas Fir is the most plentiful tree in the area (Pacific Northwest).

Hello Mark, When you are visiting any thrift store, or pawn shop - used tools - you might watch for a used Belt Sander. Maybe something like a 21" x 3". With coarse paper, they can remove a great deal of wood for trimming back to the desired perfect size.

This man is on a full blown carnivore diet. Two steaks for dinner.

23:11 the hardwood outer blocks should be drilled slightly oversized. You want the screws to fasten into the soft-wood and you don’t want to have resistance in the hardwood. If you do you can’t feel the resistance of the softwood and may not get a snug fit. Oversize if it was fir to fir as well but especially with the block being harder, if softer not as big a deal. Also don’t let me see you carry tools by the cords again! 😂🧐. Also keep up the good work and ‘beginners mind’ mentality 💪🏽

My airplane is the VariEze design by Burt Rutan. After designing many successful airplanes he was hired to design the ridgid sail for the America's Cup. It was far more difficult than he thought and he stated he was suprised that man learned to sail before we learned to fly.😊

Hi Mark,I'm sure someone below will have made the comment already,but just in case. When you bolt two pieces of wood together, The first piece the bolt needs to not ingage with the thread were as the second one does. That way they are clamped together. The way you've done it now there is minimal clamping force// The clamping force friction creates makes it much stronger

A couple episodes ago he met with the engineer of that boat, seems like this would have been something discussed

Hi Mark, My wife WIlleke and I admire you for your determination to continue with the Mahi refit despite bad weather conditions and we are sometimes amazed by your technical solutions. For sure that you’ll manage to bring Mahi back to a strong and seaworthy catamaran. We wish you lots of success with the rest of the refit and send you love

You’re doing a fantastic job my friend! Just keep ticking the jobs of and before you know it you’ll look at the list and there’s nothing left to do….. Now it’s maintenance! 😂

I would like to note five things (please don't take it as teasing, because what you do is still good): 1. You could use larch. Very strong, very waterproof and quite light. 2. If you glued the laminated beam yourself, it would be much cheaper. 3. If you had used a threaded stem instead of the very expensive wood screw, it would not have been so expensive and it would have remained watertight in the resin bed and at the same time it would have held stronger. 4.. I hope the inner side of the bolted pillow wood will be finely sanded and treated with waterproofing (insulating material). 5. You really greatly exaggerated the dimensions of the mast base beam. Although this element receives a load, it is by no means so brutal. I think 100 x 230 would have been more than enough. The three holes drilled in the cross member would not have caused a significant lack of strength, because they were also greatly oversized. Whatever you overspend will be missing from the new engines. It sounds like you're thinking about used ones. By buying used things, you also buy the problems of the previous owner! I would say this, think about it.

22:17 A good way to be very precise with your predrilling into the board that the screws will be gripping into is literally hold up the drill bit in from of the screw and adjust the size of the bit until you can see only threads extending out from behind each side of the drill bit. That way you are drilling out and removing only the core of material to accommodate the shaft of the fastener but you know that the threads will be grabbing on. And as the wood gets harder you can go up slightly in the drill bit size. And always lubricate! (When epoxy is not needed) Either paraffin wax or even rubbing the screw on your scalp for a little bit of oil on the threads. Makes all the difference -✌️

Don’t forget the washers on the coach bolts 🤪

Mark just remember that imperfections create character! I have lots of character! Cant wait for the mast to be set and see the new sails flying! Also, saving a penny has always cost a dollar and most times many more.

Also, Wharrams are designed in the style of Polynesian sea canoes, 2 tied together for ocean crossings. The original design, they are lashed together with rope, this lets the hulls flex slightly, as in they can move independently of each other, making them more sea worthy. Keep this in mind when adding huge beams across the stern or the bow, which may make the hulls more rigid than may be desirable. It is a very big beam, so it is a fair amount of work you have done, don't be too disheartened. Indoor trees are soooo hard to grow!!! lol

This is meant in the nicest way possible x Wow, I’ve noticed such an advancement in maturity since your days with the Yunan Cowgirl, in the way you are with both your work and your physical being. You seem to be such a nice chap and you deserve all the good fortune and support you need and get. I’m so impressed with how your doing the work on your boat. You’ve developed good friendships with the people around you over there at the marina. As usual the videos are absolutely 'top notch' my friend! Keep em coming and I look forward to the day I can afford to support you financially via Patreon. In the meantime I can’t wait til next weeks episode. Make sure them mast step anchor points are as strong as you can make them. Take care. All the best. Dave Swain

I do a lot of woodwork. One thing that held your tools out is to put paste wax on the bottom of your tools and it will make it glide better on the wood.

Thanks for showing us your process, warts and all. Just think of all the people who, in the future, will not tear out their wood because of your video and the helpful comments below about how to avoid it. Same with scarf-joints, and same with all the other things you've done, correctly or not. You are, by doing it and showing it, teaching multitudes. Just think of all the future, young, broke, men and women who look at a faded beauty floating in a backwater somewhere and say to themselves: "Well, Mark did it and he learned as he went. I guess I can as well." Thank you.

For curing epoxy my advice is to use electric blankets. Cheap, only like 80watts each . Wrap in plastic, put blankets over and next day its cured.

I love how you don't pretend to know how to do everything and just humbly do what you can. Thanks for not acting!

Mark, I know that this has been said but I think you need to hear that I and many others admire your determination. As I have watched your journey I have seen your skills expand. I truly wish I had a way to transport you and your boat to my shop so you would have access to all the tools you need.

This channel is the best the internet, has to offer. Mark is killing it.

Hi , the problem on my Wharram and the engine was that the beam is loaded with torsion, as the engines forces are acting so far below the beam. I made a lengthwise beam that attached between two normal beams. This new "antirotating" beam needs to be attached to the original beams so that it's rigidly connected to stop the rotation. As the long lever to the next beam is used the forces are controlled. A part of the rest of the mastbeam could be used, or two stable 1,5 inch boards laminated together and being as high as your standard beams would surely do the job, specially if using some decent glass. Just the attachment to the motor beam needs to be more massive so I would connect this lengthwise beam like you attach your mastbeam, using blocking. In this case the blocking have to be vertical on both sides of the boards. Regarding your mastbeam I hope you treat it with glass and epoxy... Matthias

I'm not a boat man!, but blacksmith, you could have used 4 pieces of stainless angle iron and 4 pieces of bolts, bolted with non-slip martriale between your mast beam and the booms. But Anyway good job

You say, screw the beam down. I hope you mean bolt it in place. A lot of force on that beam and it will tear the screws out of the wood no matter how thick the screws are. You have to drill bolt holes through the mast beam and the beam where it will rest.

We want you and your boat to be safe safe ❤

Look into threaded rod in the long run its cheaper

I watched this right after watching the new yacht build on RAN Sailing. Worth watching Mark but the contrast shows your dedication to Mahi. Great work. It will be a long time before the weather gets better but I hope you get a lot of sunny days.

You're clearly having a ball with the music in these episodes. It's been just perfect. There are times ("using a stick again") when I take a deep breath but then realise it's exactly what I'd have done so I can't talk. You've done and continue to do a superb job, of which you should be rightfully proud. And your Mum & Dad are total treasures and bring back fond memories of my time living in Lytham, playing golf in Longridge and exploring the Trough of Bowland. If your folks ever arrive with some Goosnargh duck, I think I'll cry. It's going to be great and you'll have earned every bit of pleasure you get from her in the future.

Your presentation skills are improving love your content mate

really good to see you have better and better tools- espesially the Makita kit!

Mark go to a veterinarian's and buy some large gauge syringes, it makes it really easy to squirt epoxy or liquids into holes, you dont need the needles just the syringes.

Little tip that may help with the cheap sandpaper is to wrap it round a block of scrap wood, less likely to flex which is whats causing it to flake.

I’m sure many will say the same but when routing or planing to avoid splitting off you can clamp or screw sacrificial boards each side so it’s those that split off at the edge and your beam is supported at the edges. Love your determination and enthusiasm. Look forward to your vids each week.

don't give up hope Mark, and keep trying to resist cutting corner or rushing, as your life in the futur might depend on the quality of work done now.....in general for routing and the planer if the edge can cause a problem add a small piece of sacrificial wood, to prevent tearing ...cheers

You could have prevented the splitting of the wood just by scoring the beam at the exact location of your markings. The pieces which would have splitted, would actually stop (break off) at this scoring-line.

Im guessing you will do a lot more sanding in the future. Do yourself a favor and wrap the paper round a small block of wood. It will make it much easier to sand, save your hands a bit and make what you are sanding flatter. Also when its colder you can bump up the amount of hardener in your epoxy and it will help it set up quicker.

In Dutch, RVS is actuall not Rust Free Steel, but Rust Vast (Resistant) Steel. And for marine always go for A4 (RVS 316)

Fiberglassing the Pahi 42 Mast Beam to the Beams you Lag bolted into would be a good idea ( Belt and Suspenders) Wait for dry weather ,using fast or medium epoxy ,wrap 12-18 oz (400g -600g) around the Beams similar to lashings .This will water proof your lag bolts and most important bond the two beams together ,make it beefy with lots of glass, paint …..MastBeams are critical, belt and britches, could also lash the beams , like fiberglass wrapped around , you will feel safer when out there on the oceans Mark ,well worth it if beefy……cheers from Ontario

that face at the price was so funny omg.. it was perfect lol

Don't knock yourself. You are doing a fabulous job and should be proud of you achievements. Love watching your progress.

When sawing wood candle wax is your lubricant of choice.

You can prevent the tear out from the planner by clamping on a sacrifical scrap of wood.

I saw your video yesterday night, and I mulled the problem of your mast step over in my mind. I am not an engineer, but I have the impression that your beam supported by three hull-to-hull beams is enough. The real force is vertical and downwards once your standing rigging is properly tightened. If you are sure of the integrity of those three cross beams (no "rabbit holes") I see no problem. This downwards force would be on the centres of the beams - divide by 3. The ends are taking the force divided by 3 and then by 6 - 18. Then there is the lever effect. No worry for the ends. If the cross beams are sound, I see no problem with each beam centre taking a third of the load. Reefing in tough conditions takes a lot of strain off the mast and its step. I had this experience with a Mirror rig and a reefing sail in fairly boisterous conditions off La Rochelle. The mast was bending, but the mast step was OK. Most of the stress is as you go up the mast rather than leverage on the mast step. Others might see me as talking nonsense, since I have no experience with catamarans. Good luck with the rest and with stepping the mast. I'm sure the port where you are has a mast stepping crane. Do you have a boom and the sails? Do you have at least 2 reefs on the main?

You could use u bolts around beams so you don’t have to drill cross beams on boat

Wharrams like Douglass Fir , the Doug Fir Timber you attached the Lag bolts to should be DougFir , pre drill the holes oversize and fill with thickened epoxy ,glue and glass this piece onto the Beam ,epoxy will hold better than lag bolts especially if glassed on beefy. You can unbolt the heavy timber,most likely it will not hold epoxy well to oily wood (?) Doug fir with thickened epoxy onto sanded beam is the way to go .Swallow your ideas and re do.

Great job, mark. I’m enjoying this. Fun Fact: Extending yourself beyond your “nature” always extends your capabilities. Keep it up!!

Bolt holes need to be drilled oversize , filled with thicker epoxy ,when set pre drill and screw in lag bolts into the large epoxy filled holes. Takes extra time ,for a mastbeam this is critical, belt and britches better,protect those lag nuts . Back up lashings good idea to prevent losing your rig ,lash ast beam at least to other beams if possible ,lose rig ,you lose everything?

The only thing I don't like about your videos is that they're not an hour long......the combination of admirable hard graft, your narration, dry humour and music makes for a splendidly relaxing watch.....hats off 👊

Thank you Mark for this video. I hope to see your adventures very soon all over the world. Grtz. from the Flevopolder

Great work

Nice episode Mark, I’m sure you talk things through with Haneke, and personally I would not think the rig will be highly stressed. The shroud base is very wide compared to a monohull and the force on the sails will be low down, I don’t see the beam going anywhere and I for one would lash it to the beams, it will be easily strong enough. Keep going, it’s really tough in that sort of weather but you will get there I’m sure. Andy UK

If you want to plane the end of a beam again, clamp a piece of timber tight to the end flush with the end. You can then run the plane right out onto the sacrificial piece.This will support the end grain & prevent it splitting. Only the sacrificial piece will split.

Maybe you want to apply some basic engineering principles of beam design and put some significant tapers on the mast step. Reduces weight while maintaining strength at the mid section where the mast load is applied. Cheers Peter.

The Douglas fir piece is too thin to hold that beam and mast under sail. It WILL split under the force of sail and waves. You need a thicker wood if you are going to run large bolts through it to hold that beam in place. I live in the Pacific Northwest, where a lot of D-fir is harvested, and have used it on small racing cats for repairs. I've been demasted twice due to not having thick enough bracing on the mounting. That dark wood piece you used is the right choice.

In case no one knows a mast step is always in compression, not sure where these upward forces come from? Chain plates are pulled upwards and the flimsy attachment points on the sides of the coach house are suspect at best. Any boat held together by "lashings" is gotta be makeshift at best. Are we sailing the Kontiki Raft here? Probably worked pretty good a thousand years or more ago.

As is your usual sir, very interesting posting. I'm glad you chose that heavier wood, as this is a most important part of the rig! I am truly enjoying your work on this project. Keep up the great work sir!

It would be better to make some sockets at the height of each sleeper to fit the beam. It would lower you and it would fit without needing more wood.

Because most of the force will be from your mast and that force will be downwards, you should absolutely stand your beam vertically. If you have a problem with lateral strength, it will be easy to add bracing.

Be proud of yourself mate, I would love to do all this. You know so much more than me. You are clever and a great learner. I look forward watching this every week.

You need some time off! Take a short break man, you for sure earned it!

There are two solutions to the chipping/blowout of the end grain when planing. One circular saw full depth cut on all sides. and finish with a hand saw that is sharp(the saw tracking off to one side is evidence of dullness) then no planing on the outer grain would be required. Second solution, when cutting or planing a sacrificial board can be clamped onto the edge at the end of the cut. This will hold the edge wood when cutting, planing or routing. Nice work getting projects done and learning as you go. Stoked to see you sailing one day.

Kia Ora Lad, when I was boat building in winter I made a box out of polystyrene scrap put the resin and hardener in with pumps sticking out and a 40w light bulb that was on 24/7. I then never had anymore problems with the West stuff. I would have thru bolted those blocks using stainless threaded rod and big washers under the nuts. Rog

Hello my young friend. When you bought this boat, I never believed that anything good would come of it. But now, as I begin to understand your determination, effort and the beauty you have created, I appreciate you and look forward to the wonderful journeys you will make with it. Love and greetings from Turkey, easy come on.👍

I would recommend using all thread and nuts and washers for holding the mast beam in place or some steel strap as someone else mentioned. I thought you could perhaps let the forces of the mast be taken by some lashing similar to your spreader beams. Use line to lash the spreader beams to the mast beam in a few places. Most of the forces on the mast are dispersed outwards by the rigging. The mast will mostly be applying downward force onto that beam but preparing for forces in both directions seems good. I hope you address this issue in a later video.

I ruined a cedar door though tearing, somewhat like what happened to you on your lovely beam. An old hand showed me how to get a clean cut by first using an exacto knife (razor) to deeply score the wood before using a power saw. Ah well, live and learn. I love what you're doing.

I know a lot that people say to treat, seal, and finish with a good seal and finish products, leaving fir out in the exposed alone, with no seal or finish is up to you, there are water proofing products you can purchase. Liquid Rubber Waterproof Sealant - Multi-Surface Leak Repair Indoor and Outdoor Coating, Water-Based, Easy to Apply, Original 1 Quart $40.00 CAD I'd be temped to add a few coats given the extremes weather you're gonna experience. Might add a few years of less worry about dry rots etc. You've worked so hard on your catamaran! Go Man go! Love it!

When the beam is bolted down, remember to slap it and say "Now that ain't going anywhere".

Knowledge is Knowing the Tomato is a Fruit, Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a Fruit Salad, Mark you are doing a great job mate, well done 👍🥰.

The darker wood is the Best you are doing amazing.

Dude! you cut through that bean by hand! you're a beast. ...I figured you didn't use a power tool standing in a puddle for a reason...

Just watched a video of 3 French guys lost their mast in the pacific 2,500 miles from land, rig safely is a good idea

I really admire your understated, quiet determination. When everyone advised against this boat, you just went for it. With this attitude, you have the makings of a great world sailor and I will be looking forward to each new episode. Good on you

A friend of mine granddaddy would use soap on all bolts/screws when drilling or just screwing through all woods !

Mark, You are like me an Opps carpenter. we do stuff and then go Opps when that thing that we didn't expect happens. However, Opps can always be fixed with a little but of epoxy and some clamps. Keep going you are inspirational.

Azobe is also called 'ironwood' you can't just simply screw in to it! best to drill through and bolt it I guess, try a test piece, you might (probably will) break a screw. (edit: Oh, and it will sink if you drop it in water 😉)

If there is any way possible get an aluminum mast. Determine the height required and begin your search. Perhaps you might even be able to find a damaged mast taller than your requirements that you can cut off what you need. An aluminum mast would be super if you can find one you can afford. Your boat is looking beautiful. Keep up your good work and you will have your dream.

i have a project im working on and i started out using a handsaw but i immediately went and bought a sawzall because of how slow and tiring the handsaw is, so i thought it was hilarious when you pulled out the sawzall 3:30

After your project you should have a tv series traveling the globe helping people with there unfinished boat builds 😅

Go slow with the router when you get to corners, the slower you go the finer the bite it takes, same with any kind of cutting, slow it down and let it nibble at the edge. Sometimes it seems like you don't make any progress with these kind of jobs, but you only see the final result, not all the measuring, squaring up, double checking, cutting, sanding. You're doing well, keep it up.

Thought later that 4 ich angle iron would make a good flange attachment instead of lagged wood blocks. And you could thru bolt ot all instead of lags