Bambu has put out a statement about Thermal Runaway Protection, you can find it here: blog.bambulab.com/thermal-runaway/

Love your videos man. I'm waiting on your full final review of the x1. I just purchased mine should be here Thursday. Keep up the good work. It's people like you that help small side businesses like mine running smooth. Thank you.

Loads of interesting takes on the X1, thanks for that interesting video! The support is quick in responding and in sending spares, BUT: You have to repair it on your own. This will scare the hell out of many people - like you say. The (missing?!) thermal run-a-way protection is worrying! Need to try that. And damn: You have a LOT of problems on your's! My two X1 (early demo and kickstarter pledge) are mostly VERY reliable (except for occasional clogs). For higher quality prints I made a 75% profile: All speeds/accelerations scaled down to 75% - print time isn't affected that much, as there are other bottle necks most of the time (slow downs for overhangs/cooling). Nevertheless: Fully agreed, Bambu did/does a very good job in comparison, but they're/we're not 100% "there", yet - like on photo-copiers or other mass produces machines - concerning after-sales and concerning the perfect tuning of the machines/settings.

I am surprised by how many connectors there are in that toolhead, but the laptop to desktop comparison is spot on. It's less daunting to work on a (non micro itx) desktop because you're only competing with the connectors and not the just-enough cable runs or delicate ribbon cables like you are on a laptop. I'm comfortable with that stuff and still hate ribbon cables. I've torched 3 monitors over the years because of the fragility and lack of physical resistance to let you know you're tugging one.

Imo those print look pretty darn good. Seems to be a bit of oozing happening on layer shifts (not retracting enough?). The sharpness of the edges of those voron prints seems to be printing artifacts (overextruding on corners)

I’ve been researching for a few years before I went with Bambu P1P as my first printer. I can say within those years it seems every printer you purchase you will need to tinker with, replacing parts and problem solving. If anyone feels that tinkering with this is overwhelming then this hobby isn’t for that person. For me I tinker with vehicles, computers, etc.. So I knew what I was getting into and ready for the challenge. Thanks for the video share.

Truly appreciate the less than cloudy perspective. Im in love w my Bambu, even with all of its faults. BTW, my main board fan is also failing!

I have the same issue with the mainboard fan. They sent me a replacement as well but I haven't installed it yet. I'm going to wait for your video.

X1 definitely still over compensates resonance tuning. Wish we had more control of that by default

Thanks for the video. I have a Prusa MK3s with the MMU2s and Prusa Mini, as others I'm debating getting rid of the MK3s and maybe the Mini for Bambu. I built the MK3s as a kit, and it works, but since adding the MMU2s to it I've had nothing but issues with. I have no idea where to go to get fixes, so the fact Bambu offers videos on how to fix things is a upgrade in my mind. Again I love Prusa as a company. The printer is probably above my skill level to keep working.

Whew, glad you caught it

Thank you for the updates and just the honest perception. 3d printing you have to be prepared to tinker! You cannot be scared to take the cover off and see what makes it tick so to speak. If you are not prepared to do that you are going to be pulling your hair out. 3d printing is a hobby nested inside of another hobby that work together. Fantastic video.

i think you are right about most of your points on repairs by first timers...well-founded questions, love your videos keep it up

Great video and observations. Mahalo for sharing! : )

Although the Bambu range of printers look good on paper for long term use it may not be so bright. As the parts are propriety you could have serious issues in terms of getting replacement parts and what happens when the printer is made obsolete or if the company goes out of business. The Bambu range or printers, the Ultimaker etc are all made to resemble an applicance, the problem is appliances will need servicing or repairs at some stage. These printers are some much more difficult to work on compared to your rep-rap bed slinger type 3D Printers. My first 3D Printer was a Creatbot which is an applicance type 3D Printer, which for the time was great when it worked. When things went wrong and needed to be fixed it was a pain, even changing the nozzle wasn't easy compared to the other 3D Printers I have had since.

I get a feeling this machine was designed with two very specific goals in mind; 1) A specific speed 2) A specific cost Everything else has had to abide by those goals. I still kind of want one to play with, but I'd rather buy another voron personally. But I *really* do like that they've made a machine significantly better then most of the run-of-the-mill creality and ender 3 clones, able to give people a taste of what higher end machines can do at a much lower bar of entry. And this whole market needs some disruption, been stagnant for way too long in the comercial consumer sphere!

This was an awesome video thanks for sharing! I love my x1 but I'm scared when something does break its going be hard to fix

I'm not sure if my issue is the same thing but hoping for some advice. Bear in mind I am VERY new to 3d printing. I was given a very lightly used MP select mini v2 in December and it's been working great up until yesterday. This was the first issue I've had and my first failed print. The nozzle appeared to have grabbed part of the print and was pulling it along as it did more layers. The kapton tape and fiberglass insulation on the heat block had fused to the print and was pulled off the heat block. Luckily I was nearby when this began. While I was standing there watching it I began to smell hot plastic and saw a wisp of smoke. As I was reaching to power it off I saw the temps climb to 330° even though it was set to 215 and had been working perfectly through over 2kg of Duramic PLA+ (recommended print temp of 220). I pulled it apart and checked the hotend over. The PTFE sleeve in the heatbreak was burned at the lowest point and had narrowed to a pin point. I tested the thermistor and it tests out fine and when it was installed it still read the temps and kept updating. The printer just wouldn't stay at the temps I set it to. So I'm not sure if this is thermal runaway due to a bad thermistor or not. The nozzle is discoloured now and definitely cooked. Nothing moves through it now so I'm not even going to try and clean it and I'm waiting for replacements to arrive. I'm happy to replace whatever parts are needed but I don't want to just toss parts a problem without knowing for sure if those parts are the problem. Any ideas?

That voron print looks like PA isn't calibrated. That's why looks more defined

Great info! Have a P1P in route and it will be my speed printer, if I want something really dialed in for quality then I have 2 Prusas. From what I see on youtube videos these printers have HUGE potential that can be unlocked with software. The only annoying parts is the Prusa with 0.6 nozzle isn't slow with the right slicing parameters, guess I just wanted a new toy that can print multi material.

I had a problem with my X1C where the nozzle wiper was misaligned. They had me send it in and sent me a replacement. I might be an outlier, but I've been happy with the BL support.

Just discovered your Chanel, really enjoyed this video. I do own a X1C, but not my 1st printer. I agree that it would be nice to have a quality profile. I like speed for prototyping, but a quality profile would be great for final product 👍👍

for the MB fan use noctua 5v pwm version with 4 cables. working flawless with me. next video dont forget to place the wire diagram: ground - Dark Gray (Next to Black)-> Black color cable on noctua 5v- Black -> Yellow rpm speed signal - Light Gray (Next to White) -> Green pwm - White-> Blue for the chamber fan i have replaced with another model from NMB but just reduce the flow to 40% of the stock fan and open the top lid glass when printing PLA.

I get excellent results on the X1 carbon, however I never use the recommended speed settings. I essentially cut them in half, which is still significantly higher than most other printers. The first layer I always run around 50-60 mm/s to ensure that the rest of the print has a solid base. Ever since I've started running at around half the normal speed, things have been great. The stock settings are just way too high for anything other than draft/prototype prints.

There is a reason I never buy a gen 1 car from a new company. Same reason I will wait till there is a bambu xl. They did their homework but the cult following is both cringe and worrying considering no one has even had one a year. I see people shilling this machine that don't even own one and have never even seen one. I appreciate your honest experience of using the machine.

Thank you for tinkering with the X1C. I have heard of the issue that you had with the connector on the daughter board. I believe that is actually one of the design changes for the P1P. I will see if I can find a source for that.

I'm at 706 in your video, and I'm blown away by where you're going with this review. I'd like to add that I bought a BIQU Hurakan in early December of 2022, and now, on February 24, 2023, it's in pieces on my work bench while I wait for an S-load of parts to "fix" it. Good for you! My X1 Carbon is coming tomorrow. I bought it because it's "plug and play." Wish I'd seen your video (this video) before I made my purchase. Providing customer support on such a complicated machine is going to eat Bamboo Labs profits like popcorn at a first run of The Matrix.

Great video 👌 glad you call out the issues you ran into. I am curious how these machines age!? Will there be spares in 5 years?

On the subject of repairs: I think your dishwasher analogy is still valid. Very few folks are going to be comfortable doing any repairs to a dishwasher if it failed. Or a high-end office printer - I used to fix those for a living and it wasn't super hard but I definitely needed to be taught how when I first started. The difference is that Bambu doesn't yet have the support infrastructure they need to do repairs for clients all around the world. But if you look into the history of things like dishwashers or televisions or even cars, you'll see there's a similar trend - when the technology or equipment is brand new there's a surge of interest, and then a slow-down when the maker's ability to repair in-use items gets overwhelmed, and then the growth of a repair industry and a surge in uptake by the population. I'm speculating, of course, but I suspect that Bambu has plans for repair/support infrastructure. Obviously folks in denser markets like China, Europe, or the US will get better service than someone like me up in Alberta. But I'd be really surprised if - given how this printer is clearly hoping to hit the office/university/school market - Bambu doesn't at least have a strategy for how they'll deal with repairs. Which doesn't help us all in the interim, but also doesn't change my feeling that this *is* the best first printer for someone who isn't interested in building or modding their machine. Because they seem to be very reliable out of the box and that will get the new user engaged and interested in the "design and build things" side of the hobby. Whereas my incredibly annoying Ender-5 almost drove me right out of using 3d printing as a solution for any of my building projects. On the subject of mechanical precision: I find it very interesting that your experience is so different. The main thing I print is prop pieces, usually in ABS, that will be sanded and painted in such a way as to no longer seem like a 3d print. And my X1C is orders of magnitude more precise than the Ender-5 I mentioned above. Even with a 0.4mm nozzle, I can print a 3.75" droid that looks just fine sitting on my shelf next to one mass-produced by Hasbro. The prop parts I mentioned take a tenth the time to sand smooth and even a curved or sloping top surface often doesn't need *any* sanding, just a bit of filler primer, if I remembered to iron it. I'm using the Generic ABS filament setting and made my own "quality" print preset - but that was really simple, all I did was start with the 0.12mm layer height, increast the wall loops and top and bottom to 6 each, the infill to 30% for good top coverage, and cut every single speed to half the default. Which seems to be faster than your custom settings. And yeah - with those settings, I'm getting stuff that rivals plasma-cut aluminium for smoothness and precision. The only thing I can think of that I'm doing different is throwing a blanket on top and a couple of big pieces of foam on the outside between the printer and the wall and shelf risers. I did that for insulation - when it's -40 outside my vented-externally printing room struggles to stay at +10 and I want to keep the printer above +50 while I'm printing, so some extra insulation was needed. But it might be providing a bit of damping? I doubt it, though - that toy I mentioned was printed with the promo PLA long before I attempted ABS. Maybe you just got unlucky, or I got lucky? Or, perhaps, we're working with different standards of perfection - the only thing I really have to compare this machine to is the Ender-5 which wasn't awful but also wasn't awesome.

i agree with you 100 percent as for as ppl starting out with a x1

If I go back to when I got my very first 3d printer (Voxelab Aquila right when it first came out) I can tell you that HELL no I would not have been able to diagnose or repair what you experienced! I was struggling to get my prints to stick to the bed at all, let alone printing, let alone printing *well*.

It doesn't look too bad and having the video guide seems very good. However, it is true that a 3D printer is still not a commodity item. Per your analogy, most laptop owners would not disassemble and fix their laptops either. On the other hand, 3D printers have many more moving parts than a laptop, so there is more items that wear over time and may need replacement.

My first 3D printer was a Flashforge Finder, which looks "Easier" to fix than the bamboo (it's got a single toolhead board and everything is pretty straightforward under the toolhead's hood), so maybe it's more like building a PC than working on a laptop. Flashforge also is pretty decent at shooting out parts for under warranty printers (and will happily sell you parts for those printers that are out of warranty), but you have to do the repair yourself also. The finder seems easier to work on than the Bambu (three screws and you're looking at everything), but OTOH, The number of times I've had the hot end out (most recently for a faulty thermocouple, but I've done a nozzle change and PTFE Liner swaps too) is annoying, and that's for someone who sort-of-kind-of knew what was going on going in.

Look at the pressure advance. In the voron tuning guides it states that high pressure advance settings can lead to rounded out corners.

i had the same problem..... rebooted and pressed into the wires. now it works

Good lord that thermal runaway is super scary

So far the only way I've eliminated ringing is turning inner/outer walls down to 1k accels, and run everything else high. The biggest hurdle now is the belt pattern like VFA's, at least for me. The over smoothing is also pretty annoying. Great video. I hope Bambu steps up their software game, because it's definitely lacking. The hardware is certainly there.

Thanks for the video! I appreciate you surfacing issues and how you address them. One of the issues I'm seeing, related to ringing or ghosting, are the ripples that match the belt pitch on X/Y. Have you noticed this issue? I think BambuLab is aware and working on it based on the CEO's recent AMA, but I don't know what progress has been made or what the priority is. There's talk in FB Groups and Discord about using Gates belts, changing the smooth idler pulleys to toothed ones, and changing the stepper motors, but doesn't seem like anyone has attempted to do so as yet. Changing the idler pulleys seems like the most difficult though, especially without instructions and looks like the frame may need to be disassembled.

Your comments about the slicer settings. This is a general slicer idea I had, wonder if it has any merit? Slicers have profiles for layer height typically which is often draft>fine etc. They adjust some settings but mostly the number of layers for top/bottom as a result. I was thinking, a useful thing would be to have some sort of slider option or maybe shape similar to the way colour gradients can be picked. You would have extremes for strength, quality, accuracy, speed (maybe)... you get the idea hopefully.... At the extremes you end up with things like lots of walls, high infill etc. or speeds adjusted to ensure accuracy and quality. This way you can quickly choose the priorities for the part and it adjusts all the settings to get the right mix. Experienced users do this all the time or create profiles etc but for adoption and ease I think this approach could work well a lot of the time. Anyway, that's my idea. I'd also like hole detection and it adds more walls/infill in those areas.

Appreciate that outlook. As a printing newbie, this would be a pretty difficult problem to diagnose, let alone repair.

love your videos man, you fn rock !!! how fricken educative love it !!!! Best out there by far

I've personally seen many people take an instant liking to this printer, both for its ready to go out of the box type of approach and for the ability to change colours, as a first 3D printer I would say its good to establish what to expect from printers, allowing people to chose where people go from there. Also couldn't agree more about the creality contact, as someone who owned an Ender 3 V2 creality are not at all welcoming to people wanting to get replacement parts.

I regretted getting my voron when I first saw this thing. But the issues and needing parts you can only get from them has made me glad I went with a voron.

Your layer issues looks more like a retraction issue or buildup in the nozzle where it builds up pressure or too much plastic from many retractions, and then extrudes too much once it gets to the outer walls. This normally is the opposite where it under extrudes when this happens, but I have seen it go both ways depending on the model and settings. Have you tried rotating the model on the build plate to see if that changes anything? could be binding up in the ptfe tube when it reaches parts of the build plate as well.

A ton of answers I was wanting regarding the X1 Carbon! Nothing is perfect, and up to this point, all i’ve seen was the 100% positive reviews. yours is not negative at all. it simply sheds light in the “real” X1 and brings it back down to earth. I’ve been planning on getting once once they “dial” in the product. They do appear to be doing so. Looks excellent! I am still on the fence regarding the proprietary components and software. I would not want to end up with a brick if the company goes belly up as so many tech innovation companies have over the years. Does anyone have any thoughts on the brick situation if Bambu Lab were to fail? Would the X1 continue to function?

I did find slowing the speeds down did improve the quality and reliability, yet it was still producing quicker prints than my bed slingers

Honestly I’m kinda surprised there haven’t been more issues with the x1c. I specifically held off on ordering because I thought after a few months there would be thousands of major issues. And many people that have these machines are using them hard. I have seen some issues relating to ringing, some seem to be related to perhaps a certain batch of printers but most have been resolved or have some resolution. I expect that there will be some printers with hardware issues, and being a new printer, from a new company, with “new” features there will be a portion of units with faulty parts when you consider all of the above with the pitfalls of manufacturing in general. One issue I have is proprietary slicer, you have to use their slicer. But I’m sure someone, likely multiple people, are figuring out a hack to use their favorite flavor of slicer. And it’s likely, as more printers gain newer features and speed more slicers may become compatible. So far I’ve seen nothing that would deter me from buying one. Matter of fact I’m likely going to buy an x1c and a p1p this year. The plan is after the first quarter, but for sure before the end of the year.

Thanks for hte video! I get that it's 10 months old, but do you remember how many hours of print time until you had these issues?

I spent many hours building my prusa Mk3s+. Returning it to get this lol. I can handle a little fix. I mean for petes sake I had to build my whole hot end/ extruder/ printer lol. I feel confident enough to tear this down to fix a part now

so refreshing to hear a pliable review on this hail Mary of a printer. its never ending seeing the start and walkaway concept with this printer. i feel personally it needs a lot more developmental hours and possibly an x2. i know its biult to a pricepoint but i feel they where about 200,000 hrs short of concept with this one

I struggle with just installing firmware on my 3d printers! I am fine getting my hands dirty assembling or disassembling 3d printers, but the firmware is definitely the hardest to get around.

Can we get that 0.2mm quality profile you talked about? Would love to try it out!

I have been 3d printing for a little over a year now so i am still fairly new and just had the 'b' motor die in my X1C. Took about 3 weeks to get a replacement and i gotta say if i was completely new to 3d printing there is no way i would have done that replacement.

Hello, have you done a maintenance video of Kobra max or how to detect problems cause I just got mine and don’t know what is a big problem and I don’t notice

I have been trying to slow mine down for better over hangs the six fan I had been giving me a head ace. Only have reguler pla from zyltech and htpla the htpla has been a paint 😅

I just went to their website and haven't found replacement boards for print heads. It seems that they have only a subset of parts that you can buy right now (don't know about the future). When buying printer, I would like to get all the parts that can potentially break during the life of the printer right away, like fans nozzles, cables, etc. If the printer will work on-and-off for 10 years printing some spare parts and organizers for the workshop, then it should have all the spare parts available for the whole work duration. Bambu Lab is a new company, and I've seen time and time again, when companies dropped support for their best selling devices, or for a little bit older models.

Thanks. I just had to disassemble my extruder to get some 30D TPU out and it wasn't very fun. If you like to dig into things, could you look for a JTAG interface in there? I'd love to see what this firmware is doing. I'm quite certain it runs Linux, but what they have borrowed from other places, I have no idea about ;)

Best printer I've ever had (PETG) but..... it is quirky. It's been sorta pleasant figuring it out but now it's getting old fast. I'm completely on-board with new profiles for best quality over speed. I would like to "dial it down" from highest quality to find my own balance on the time required. I'm not always in the mood to tinker and tweak even though I enjoy it. Sometimes I would just rather have the perfect part for the time spent. I have a new problem that doesn't seem to be in the database yet. My X1 is telling me calibration results are too different from previous calibration and that I need to clean the carbon rod? Also, since I replaced the print surface with the ones they sent it doesn't recognize the bed anymore and I have to be there to override and continue print. Another also is I had ordered and received new hot ends in 4 & 6 and when I replaced them they didn't read ambient temp and wouldn't heat up. I put the original back in and have been continuing to print with it but can't do anything other than open a ticket that there is no category for. First time listener - just subscribed. ;)

My Bambu prints perfect... Both do. But.... The one with the AMS I have issues on most filament changes where it gets stuck pulling back. I pull the PTFE out on the back, hit retry and the filament retracts, no problem. Can't figure it out. Doesn't feel like that should unstick anything but it does. Help?

What are your quality settings for the Bambu Slicer?

I just got a bambu lab x1 carbon as well. After watching this video I was afraid mine would have these issues as well. I haven't printed much. I printed the scraper and a part I designed myself. As far as I can tell my printer has no ringing whatsoever. That I have noticed so far. Flat sides after corners seem perfectly smooth. I read some comment somewhere else, that the chips? Or whatever does the vibration compensation are often faulty, it was some guy that had built Voron printers. I think he said 1/10 of those chips or whatever are faulty. So if Bambu labs do no quality control on them I guess 1/10 of their printers are faulty as well when it comes to this ringing issue.

The P1P actually has a different connector for the thermistor, to mitigate this issue.

Let me guess, u change out the vans and add extra triangle shaped beams to the cornders to increase stuctural integrety. Or maybe soms passively powered hydrailic springs attached to the structure to take out vibrations in the frame itself? Or you just slowed the acceleration to a minimum xD I can't wait to see how you manage it

This is a great video and I hope many people will see it. I don't believe their thermal runaway statement, if your filament boils and the difference is 100°C then it should've turned off a long time ago, no excuses.

I just got my x1c. Im attempting to print threads and getting much lower quality than my flashforge adventurer 3 lol. So its definitely a finicky machine that doesn't just work amazing out of the box.

I am having the same problem with the main board fan and only a dozen hours on the machine...I am going to replace it with a noctua. The possibility that thermal runaway is not engaged is scary!

hi just here to say I had the exact same problem across multiple printers, and I was stalked and harassed by the staff and nobody believed me about the artifacting. I was told that I was a scammer who wanted free printers and then they continued to leak information about myself to people in the Discord. I had to go to my bank and do a chargeback because I was stuck with three dogshit, artifacting printers with staff who didn't want to do anything other than ask me if i cleaned the rails 4 times flipped it all the angles in the world all the temps all the speeds all the accelerations all the jerks and that I was the underlying problem to everything since its what all the prints had in common. They even made this conspiracy theory that every person in the Discord who complained was me on a different accounts, that I socially engineered people for hundreds of hours to get free stuff, that i was mentally ill (yes, the representative of bambu lab said that to me), honestly great stuff really love how I am being treated after being spending thousands of dollars. I spent over 11 weeks, every single day, atleast 400 dollars in fillament trying to fix their printers for them. It was a waste of time, they aren't good machines. The company is just a bunch of random people with a shell headquarters in Texas with no track record of delivering quality products to market. I also had one DOA system that they forced me to open day one and the thing was horrible to take apart,. The motor died so the thing would just slam the head into the side of the chasis and damage itself LOL, then they told us to superglue our cracking ams systems. Since then, I went and bought three ankermake printers and they've all worked beautifully. I'm still down 4500 dollars due to bambu lab and hope my bank will help me sort it out, as they seem they are doing. Shout out to Will, Larry V and also Hedgehog if you see this, you are terrible people and i hope you get fired.

I know this is an older video, but what slicer did you use to print the model with your Voron? I know I see a big difference when using Cura vs PrusaSlicer vs Simplify3D vs Canvas (for Palette 2 pro). But, I also know that i don't have every setting the same in all of these slicers. My point is that maybe that's also the case with why you see a difference. Can you use the same slicer for all the printers and see how they look then?

I don’t think I would have felt comfortable handling it if it was my first machine, nor would I have recognized the thermal runaway. Now I would but then? Nah. I am glad you brought this up…if it even helps one person new to 3D printing learn what they don’t know so they can learn before they throw up their hands and give up or experience (knock on wood that it won’t happen) thermal runaway on an unmonitored print.

Gonna ever do a video on your "manual tuning" of the printer or maybe share some profiles?

I think the corner diference is the linear or presure advance , download to 0.01

I think you have the wrong idea of prusa support. When you contact prusa support, you will get a live person within minutes and they will work with you for as long as it takes to resolve your issue. Replacement parts are easy to get either via prusa or off the shelf. Prusa is the standard for 3D support.

As someone who is looking for their first 3D printer in about 8 years (I had access to build and use a Mk0 prusia i3 clone for a year or so back in 2016), one of the things that really drove me away from the hobby was exactly how much tinkering was required. I would spend 90% of my time tinkering and fixing problems, instead of getting decent prints. My time is limited, I don't want to spend it all fixing problems. I'd much rather have a better out of the box experience, even if it means a little more work on repairs. The amount of time this design philosophy saves is so important to making 3D printing accessible. So today as I weigh the various options, I'm drawn more to the X1C and P1P, as opposed to the Prusas and Enders of the market today. The combination of faster print speed, quicker setup, and better out of the box experience, plus the advanced "AI" tech that can help detect and prevent problems from cropping up in the first place is what draws me to the Bambu Labs printers today, even though they cost more than your typical budget printers. It's a blunt way of saying it, but my free time is worth more to me than my money, and these printers are a good compromise between cost and accessibility to me. So would I prefer an easier repair process? Uh, sure, who wouldn't? But am I willing to give up all the other advantages for it? Not at all.

Had this same issue with my X1C

Could the difference be running the vibration calibration a couple of times maybe? A few runs may help the machine approach maximum benefit from the process. My X1C beats every other printer I have ever had (4) in print quality and reliability. I'm not complaining.

I have an Ender and have more or less ripped it apart completely and reassembled it a bunch of times out of necessity to fix problems, upgrade, mod and troubleshoot. Idk if I’d be comfortable doing that with the X1C, It looks to be right on the border of what I’d be comfortable fixing myself, mostly because of the ribbon cables, those stupid things are way to fragile. Completely agree that this looks more like a laptop than a desktop in terms of repairs and working on it. Anyways, that stupid Ender broke completely so I went ahead and ordered an X1C, seems to be a much more reliable printer with fewer issues, and less need for repairs and non cosmetic mods and upgrades. Might still add a hepa filter and some COB led strips

In terms of comparing the print of the X1 vs the Voron. I think the crisp corners are a result of improperly tuned pressure advance, leading to a very small amount of overextruded material in places where the print head had to change directions rapidly.

the carbon filter aspect, do you have pictures, video footage of what the inside pocket of the carbon filter area is like? I have a P1P I want to convert to the P1S and can't find what kind of contraption/addition was added to the inside to rest the carbon filter on (through the door on the inside of the unit).. and wondered if you know, if you have footage on it? I will keep looking, haven't found that info yet.

i have a broken mainboard fan too... will replaced it with a noctua tomorrow

Hmm 450hrs seems to be quite a little time I have almost double that on my v2.4 with no repairs. Except changing carbon. Which I have my Voron setup to tell me when to do so. Also I agree that this repair is also much more involved then someone new would be able to do easy. I think people where hoping but this isn’t 2d printer level yet. Maybe soon there will be dedicated 3d printer repair people. Ultimately if your new join a discord and make a friend local that can help when you need it.

the voron looks like it has over extrusion on the corners, as if pressure advance isnt set properly

My initial thought seeing the title is maybe you had a review unit which did have some parts fixes. But then I also joked last night wait until people have to start doing maintenance on these. A printer is a printer.

when I put the acceleration down on Bambu I have sharp edges too... outer walls 2000-2500

My x1 carbon broke the same day I received it, did a calibration print that crashed and now the printer says can’t resume previous job. Right know I have a $2000 paper weight

I think there are 2 answers to your question: 1. As of today there is no 3D printing without a technical practiced operator who is capable of reading instructions, changing parts and is willing (!) to gain knowledge in 3D printing (not everyone is or wants to put the time in)! Without such a person a new printer works and is used till the first real problems/ wear arrive. 2. In the future there should be repair centres, where you can bring (in big cities) or send your machine to get it fixed! Otherwise the trend or "cheap Ender machines" goes much further where someone buys a new printer for like 120 bucks just because he is not able (or does not want to invest the time) to fix the one, he already has. That would create a huge technology scrap problem. => For a good repairability it would be beneficial if companies agree on some standard parts which are good to get and limit the amount of spare parts a repair service would need ... which is kinda the idea of self build printers with standard parts and goes against what Bambu Lab, Ultimaker and the other proprietary 3D printer companies try to establish. The next step for a company like Bambu Lab would be to make cheap a Voron 2.4 clone for like 800 bucks (like the P1P) but with standard parts (that could wear out in like 5 years of usage) for a better repairability.

In general I think your argument is right. It's a lot like people should buy PC's and not Apple laptops due to the complexity and non existent local help if they have a problem. I'm certainly no expert on the matter but I think of the Bambu X-1 Carbon is more a mid tier printer and not at all like say an Ender 3, which by the way some people would find intimidating doing repairs as well.

I just found out about this machine on Friday. And while on paper, it is the next best thing since Betty White...it reminds me of Slowforge...err...Glowforge. Let me explain. I primarily do laser engraving...I dabble in 3D printing for an FRC robotics team...so I own 2 Prusa's Mk3s+. My first laser was a Glowforge. All the software to run it is in the cloud. Same as this. IF either goes under for whatever reason...you basically have a paperweight. UNLESS you can jailbreak it. For what it offers...it seems like a nice system. The cost of everything on this is less than building the Prusa (fully built from Prusa) to these specs...minus the LIDAR. IF they didn't offer their own slicer (cloud based)...I wouldn't hesitate on getting one...even with the thermal issue you experienced. People may say I am a newbie and I have no idea what I am talking about...and they may be right. I will stand by it. The more complex a system is, the easier it is to fail. And if one keeps everything proprietary, if it does fail, well welcome to the world of paper weights. Keep up the great work...I hope they discover the reason for the runaway...and improve the shutdown time to save future machines.

I love my X1C - but I got roasted on Reddit because I was talking about how this machine seems too "push button" and seems like such a friendly first printer. It *is* those things but it will need maitenance like you said and if this is your first printer ever it may seem too daunting to take apart a machine of this fit and finish over something like an Ender or Prusa. Someone definitely could/should use this as a first printer but I think an Ender or a Prusa or something is *better*.

My impression of the corners on the part printed on the Voron is that they seem worse to me, not better, but I haven't seen the model to actually know what it's supposed to look like. The Voron print reminds me of over-sharpening on TVs.

Wonder if all your insulation had something to do with it.

That rounding of corners, is imput shaper, thats how it get away with less ghosting less hard corners. thats why tunign imput shaper yourself can get you the sharp corners.

Damn. That thing was cooking!

having the cutter stuck error and thinking im probably going to have to replace the board too

0:55 what's nice about ptc heaters like the one in the bambu htoend, is that they're hardware limited to 300c. The power decreases the closer you get to 300c, so it is impossible to actually exceed that temp, no matter how much you try. The PLA might boil and smoke, but you wont be melting the heat block.

The reason you're seeing differences in the corners is because of the lack of input shaping on your 2.4 prints. Those corners are filleted, they shouldn't bump out they they are.

That massive layer issue on the voron print looks like it was due from warping

Well... my first thing I did on my first printer (ender 3 pro) was to upgrade to a big tree tech board, program it, and then spend a week trying to program the bltouch. I've never wanted to throw my computer out a window so many times

You disassembled then had loose connection?

3DiY printer manufacturer is always in touch, BIZON 3 printers are reliable working machines.

oh lord, thermal runaway SHOULD not happen in 2023, it should absolutely not happen on a printer that wants to be high end