Hi Dave and Diane ☺ tappy tap tap wins the day on this one, along whith the hot spanner,lol, progress is good. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Diane, Stuart and Megan UK.

So much fun watching this! Oh yea! Thanks so much Dave. ~ Just so much fun. 〰✨🌲👍🌲✨〰

That casting certainly drilled and tapped nicely

All I can say sir is that you have the patience of Job. Well done.

Great repurposing of an old gate valve stem into a brass drift. Love it Dave.

We all cheered when the sprockets broke lose!

Boy howdy! That is some amazing work and perseverance! Heat/tapping repeat. Heat/tapping repeat. Heat/tapping repeat. VICTORY 🎉❤😊

My Dad was born in 1927 and started work as a blacksmith. One day he was told to teach a married guy the trade, but then found out this guy was earning more than him, so he quit and became a cop. One thing he told me that I will never forget was when one day, while fixing my bicycle, I got mad because I couldn't fix it. He said it was a dead thing and didn't have a will of its own. The only way of fixing it was with patience, perseverance and savvy. I never got mad at a 'dead thing' again. I can see you follow the same philosophy. My son-in-law, who's a boiler maker, also threw things around and got mad. My daughter must've told him the dead thing bit, because he's stopped doing it. We have a saying when facing a workshop problem, 'It doesn't have a mother or a father, so we are going to overcome!'

We used to call a cutting torch the "Hot Wrench".

The look on Dave's face when he says "he gets to play" with his manure spreader is PRICELESS! 😁😁😁

The gruff, unforgettable man that gave me a chance and signed me on as a Heavy Duty Apprentice many years ago, always liked to say “Patience, Persistence and a little bit of Snake oil” always works. 😆 Thanks Tom Cheers and thanks Dave

Stay safe and warm. 🇺🇸👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻✅✅✅✅✅⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🫵🏼

Under the category of "satisfying accomplishments": breaking loose a stuck fitting. We know how good it feels to win.

Funny, I have that exact brass valve stem that I use as a drift. It was salvaged from a boiler room steam valve, used in an old hospital with all boiler heating and cooling systems.

Patience come with age when dealing with rusty attachments. The same is true with grandchildren. :-)

Sorry for another comment, "I love what you do" My dad got a call in the 1980s from a livestock food provider that was having problems with his animal food milling machine on the phone call the man held his phone near the machine and said to my dad "what do you think is wrong" and my dad said with a straight face :-) "I do not know BUT it sounds expensive" later he went and repaired it it was a broken bearing. Back in the day 1980s industrial NorthWest GB / UK we just got things done with virtually no H&S no masks no eye protection and a bucket of water just in case things went wrong. And I kid you not, no eye protection just a fridge to store lidocaine and tweezers to pull out steel splinter from your eye ???? I started working for my dad in the 1970s when I was 10y and I am still here to tell the stories... Drilling 1 inch holes in factory chimney bands with just centre punch on a line shaft radial arm drill with just a peg in the radial arm be and a 30 gallon oil drum support for the 6 ft x 3 inch x 1/2 inch steel band and no clamps/ no pilot hole just the peg to stop the rotation. There was so much shaft wobble on the 100y radial arm drill that if we used clamps something would have broken. changing speed on the drill was done by forcing the belt over to another pully with a broom handle. When you look back how they must have worked around 1900 it makes me feel amazed. Now I work on very old sewing machines and I am astounded by the precision in the 1880s Please keep producing your excellent content it makes me smile with joy.

The cooling-down phase is all important to this process in helping break down the rust and any crud inside.

Once again I have learned over time watching you that holding ones tong on how something should be done, a trick or a step is best until the end then usually no comment is necessary

That large brass screw you use as a chisel looks like a bronze screw shaft from a os&y valve or just a street water valve. Probably a 6or 8”.

Yes worked many rusted sprockets, they are a test of patience. Dave if you have any more to remove try getting a rosebud tip for your torch. It works better when you just need heat..

This is a really interesting project. I look forward to the next installments.

Persistence. We will never see Dave give up.

That is some great work preserving the hard parts. I look forward to each installment.

It's satisfying to see something come together

You will have to show us the snow when you get it one thing for sure on your farmstead where your cows are looks amazing when snow has fallen. Loving the process of this manure spreader we are leaning something new every time. 👍😀😀

I can smell the Blaster as it vaporizes, and the rust burns!!

Hi Dave. Hi from Western Australia🇦🇺. The second sprocket will be about a .002" interference fit on the shaft that's why there's no set screw. Great vid's, just keep'em coming. 👍👍👍

Dave never disappoints. Hi Dianne 😊

Good to see your experience and wisdom working to get things done. Looking forward to your aging new aging process. Have fun.

Persistence works. I am thinking a wheel puller would have worked too. @LAOL is a channel where a father and son work on antique tractors. There ability to create wheel pullers and such is pretty interesting. Even you might learn a thing or two.

Sir , I enjoy your video . One other way to get stuck parts is to heat and melt wax. Some times it will flow better. Do to watching I am going to rebuild a Doctor Buggy.

Dave, I saw a guy make a mandril out of a bolt, and a dowel covered in some bicycle inner tube, which he chucked up in a hand drill, and used to drive a small belt sander belt, turned inside out, to clean rusty shafting, which would help with removing the other cogs and stuff, not having to drive it off over rusted up shafting.

Evening Dave and Diane, it will soon be summer and Strawberry season again 😊. Thanks for the videos, there much appreciated. Regards Richard 🇬🇧

Sigh of relief when that sprocket/wheel came off!

-26F in Great Falls this morning (Friday 1/12)! Supposed to be even colder tonight. I think back to using manure spreader in the 60's. What a mess you could make with one of those!

It never amazes how old machines got the least amount of proper maintenance and repairs yet they kept on using them and that they worked as long as they did. How that wheel hub made it that long with only a set screw vs. the key it was designed to use !

Hi Dave, I just love. the resto on the manure wagon, love a good challenge. I've been aa equipment mechanic all my life, learned from my dad. I'm now 80yrs. When it came to removing rust frozen parts we used heat and paraffin, not bees wax. Paraffin is made from petroleum. Heat the metal very hot and apply the wax when the metal cools enough so the wax does not flame up. You may have to repeat many times plus using a hammer. Careful using a air hammer, that works very well in a lot of cases but I wouldn't use the air hammer on those cast pieces and if you are going to invest in one try not to purchase one made in China. Remember, Made By Americans In American.

Interesting to see removing the wheel 12:53 in the 1980s with my dad we would have cut the wheel off either side of the shaft and burned out the slug of shaft with Oxy Acetylene and welded the shaft back together. we worked on a lot of cotton weaving looms and motor pullies. My granddad back in the 1930 bought a mobile Murex welding plant so that he could repair sheared electric motor shafts in situ to save dismantling very large electrical 3 phase motors.

Always enjoy your restoration projects!! I dug a needle scaler out of the medal dumpster at work. It was missing the air coupling. "Could that be all that's wrong with it?!" I was hoping.... Pushed the trigger. Just a hiss of air leaking. Well, I started attempting to take it apart. Threads wouldn't budge! I went through several heating cycles and penetrating oil. No joy! I put ut aside. Fast forward several months. I got back on it. I was thinking about making a custom wrench and hold the other end in a vice. But before I started on the wrench, I thought I'd give it one last attempt with a pipe wrench and vice. Long extension on the pipe wrench, I started pushing down. It moved easily! SHOCKING! And exciting! Got it apart. Everything was stuck solid! Got it cleaned up and functional! I'll use it on my other rusty projects.

I do not think there is any other quality so essential to success of any kind as the quality of perseverance. It overcomes almost everything, even nature. (John D. Rockefeller)

I've seen a few tried and true methods mentioned here. I just wanted to offer another to try, Wax. When you heat the metal, touch a candle to it. It flows in and acts as a lubricant. Smoke is a little more pleasant also. Keep up the fine work.

I've found that stainless steel wool in vinegar gives a much greyer stain than 'metal filings'. I've used it to match fence picket repairs to a weathered grey. Love your work!

Once again thanks for the video.

Amazing skill. 64 yrs old & I still have so much to learn.

Another fine demonstration 👍🇬🇧

Dave I think you will have to come up with a shorter name for your manure spreader, something short and suitable for the ongoing battles it is going to give you, you will win I am sure.

Man I enjoy seeing you work! I make suggestions, and next thing I know you're doing them. I wish you success with this project.

Perseverance always pays off! Good job!

Again Dave, Really happy to see another video on this project. This is such a beautiful project and I can see what an incredible finished piece this is going to be. All the iron and wood together is gorgeous. Thanks for the bonus video.

I believe this is the most sophisticated machine you have recorded on KZfaq. You had that horse-drawn weed wacker, but this one seems to have more interacting parts. Looking forward to its completion.

The penetrating oil, heat, (and there is a particular way to heat, I saw you using it also), light tapping method was shown to me by an ole time blacksmith, about 50 years ago,his name was granddad, it rarely fails, takes patience, something youngsters need a lot of practice at.😊 nice to see you sharing the method with everyone sir, enjoyed the video, thanks.

Perseverance is right. Thank you sir! This is my favorite “show” of the week. Well Tuesday as well.

I think you vaporized the key! 👍😁👍

As I boy, when I exhibited what you call "perseverance," my folks said I was being stubborn. But there's something to be said for a never-say-die attitude. Well done, Dave!

The surface that the Cog runs on has been worn - causing the cog to run too tight and also now has the knock on effect that the chain now interferes with that tab that is worn. Cog housing needs to be built back up to get space away from tab.

Always works most of the time and persistence pays off again. It's coming right along. Looking great around there. Fred.

aLWAYS a pleasure to WARCH YOUY CHANNEL

Thank you for all the hard work you put into your projects. May GOD bless.

Dave versus machine - No Contest. Dave wins every time.

Little hint - if you chamfer the edge of the hole before tapping, the tap starts easier and aligns better. Learned this in a jobshop I worked in.

Still rockin that beautiful custom vest.

Fantastic job n that stud replacement!

Dave, you might want to try using 50% aceatone and 50% transmission fluid mixture for busting rusty bolts ect. loose. it has been used for a long time. Iit works GREAT. Love the progress your making so far !!!

great job you got it loose👍👍👍 be watching for next time thanks Dave

Dry Ice works great on the shaft. Shrinks it! Heat expands. Cold shrinks. 👍

To right heat it up to cherry and walk away, come back in half an hour it will be free. the key is the cool down time

For rusted parts, I begin by soaking several days or more in kerosene. For large items, I wrap in burlap, then soak. I once freed at 60" hydro-turbine by attaching a concrete form vibrator + kerosene treatment.

A battery Makita tool you'll find very handy is their multi-tool. It's a very safe. it's handy and effective; at blade changing and cutting anything.

Sometimes a Rose Bud tip will do a better job of flame control. Perhaps that shaft should be grooved to allow grease to migrate along it in that bushing. There are many ways to do something. Glad you got the Shaft and gears separated.

Like another poster stated with these stuck pulleys, gears or bearings. I usually use emery paper and files to remove rust and burrs on either side of the shaft holding the stuck part. That way the worse part is the rusted shaft area under the part. And heat always seems to work in the end.

Always great to see the new Eagle Grip locking pliers in use too! 👍😎👍

Dave, a chisel hammer with a blunt drift will give it a thousand light hits a minute without damaging, works great 👍

1970s+ Blacksmith shop in Lancashire UK reliving what we did and what you are doing is so nice. My other relative I found in 2010 was a wheelwright, my grandad sold him a wheel rim but welder. One job my dad did was make sizzling cast steel platters for a chef and he polished the rough oval castings and delivered them to the sad chef who said "what have you done" fortunately my dad took them back and shoved them in the forge to blacken them ;-)) and everyone was happy. Yep we had a steak meal cooked by him a few weeks later. I am so glad you still do this work. BTW I have a full set of Oxy Acetylene bottles with all welding and cutting gear and valves. Just never used it since I brought it to where I live in 1992; I wanted to use it just never needed to use it, including the "Gas Economiser" valve cut off. My day job was to service and test all gas equipment in a factory that made "instantaneous water heaters" and "gas fires" The last thing I gas welded was an exhaust for a pulsejet engine back in 1980, it was a weld that looked like bird muck and chewing gum ;-))

I had a neighbor, years ago, who was an old tractor mechanic, who once told me the best thing to us to free up a rusted on bolt, or whatever, was to heat and melt a wax candle into it.

I have removed stuck sprockets from a shaft without using a wheel puller. The set screw for the sprocket key is replaced with a grease zerk. The flex tube of the grease gun is cleared with an air hose. Penetrating oil is put into the hose and connected to the grease gun. The oil, followed by grease will generate 5000 PSI and lube the rust between the sprocket and shaft. Have not needed to "inject the oil" twice.

persistence seems to always win. great job

Would it not just be easier to buy a new one?!!! ;-) Kidding. At one point I was willing it so hard to come off I thought it was moving before you actually got it moving. Well done Dave

You have remarkable patience to work at getting these off I probably would have put a puller on it and broke something. Thanks for your videos!

Poetry in motion

Another great video showcasing your knowledge, skills and abilities to see a problem and find a solution to them.

Good work, my friend. I can't wait to see how you get this going.

When i was in the mecanical trade years ago i used to find dirty engine oil worked better than penatrating oils on cast exhaust manifolds

I love watching this channel, I learn all kinds of things. good job getting it apart so far 😍

WD-40, PB Blaster and even regular engine oil are fantastic. but one thing I learned from an old machinist who really didn't want to work that hard was CANDLE WAX... get it hot, drip some wax on it... get a cup of coffee and then come back to tap it off or twist it out. Same amount of time, a lot less effort. It only took me 30 years to learn that the old way was the best one... I know you've got a lot more time than me on projects like this one, but maybe a little something to think about there.

I have used CONKLIN with great success. Put the shaft straight up and daily keep spraying CONKLIN onto the shaft and tapping top and bottom. After a week it would finally come lose. 🙂

Good work,,,, try to stay warm!

When removing a bolt from a nut or a shaft from a sprocket. If you can cool the bolt or the shaft and heat the nut or sprocket, it helps. Rubbing dry ice on the shaft or bolt after heating the nut will shrink the shaft

Always interesting.

Great project

Thanks I learn a lot

Dave, you need a rose bud tip for your torch set. Lots of heat in a short time

After an estate sale I was hirerd to help move 2 of those that are a lot newer and dismantle three other's for there parts they have not changed very much.

As a young man I was told to use candlewax rather than release oils/fluid. candle wax thins and creeps under heat while the release oils tend to just burn off. Can't say I've done it a lot, seldom have a candle to hand but seemed to work well with moderate heating.

This just a suggestion. When heating to remove rusted on parts, instead of penetrating oil try bee's wax. I have seen it work many times.

Vise grips as handles. I'll remember that trick!

Dave, That old manure spreader project looks like a lot of fun. Lot of detective work to figure out what's what and where it belongs. Kinda like the Sheep Wagon. Impressive casting repairs, I would have though they were pretty much ruined. There is an arc welding rod put out by "Muggy Weld" for casting repairs. I've seen KZfaq videos of it's use on exhaust manifolds, looks promising. Can build up the iron then machine back. As always, really enjoy your videos, especially now that we get two installments a week :) . You are a very interesting guy.

Have you tried freeze spray to help with the heat? Heat the whole thing - cog and shaft, then protect the cog and spray the shaft with freeze spray...the differential temperature should help with the separation. Always great to watch you work.

You need some added tannin to your vinegar/iron mix to make up for the lack of tannin in the wood you're using to get the iron tannate, a stable black color, instead of the rust red iron (II) oxide. You can buy tannic acid, or make your own. I'm usually trying to go the other way--remove the black iron tannate stains by using oxalic acid solution on antique oak furniture that has suffered water damage.

If I'm not mistaken, you're not big on air tools, but if there's one thing to invest in it would be an air chisel/hammer like the large Chief model from Harbor Freight. Mine never ceases to amaze me at how it can rattle rusty parts loose where tapping on them with a hammer fails or just takes too long.

This reminds me of an old saying endeavor to persevere