⛵️Watching again in the car, but remembered my ear phones this time!!!!....Daren't have the sound up, otherwise your Dad will watch you rather than the road!!!!🫣...Honestly Sparks, you really are becoming a true craftsman!....As always, couldn't be prouder & also,,,love, love, LOVE your thumb nail!!!....Granny now knows what that is & agrees!!!!....11 more sleeps - whoop!...🌿⛵️Loads of Love Mum⛵️🌿

To stop messy breakthroughs place a sacrificial piece of wood underneath the piece you want to look nice and clamp them together, then drill and you should see a nice clean hole.

To keep the drill bits sharper longer, put some machine oil on the bit where you are drilling through metal, and drill stainless slowly, it will help keep the bit from getting too hot. It would be ideal to put a flat washer under both the head and the nut end of the bolts. Spreading out the pressure won't collapse the wood under the head. 👍

As a cabinet maker I drill through onto a sacrificial piece of wood. This avoids break through. Keep up the good work you are doing great.

The 1st 5 mins of this video were probably the most relaxing 5 mins of any video on YT.

Wasps are one of the best architects on the planet

Mark - consider using bolts that are not threaded for their entire length. Just threaded where the nuts fasten. Under load, the thread tends to work / cut into the structure and the holes elongate. Apologies everyone if this is old territory.

On my class of boat, it has a balsa core deck so it's common to over-drill the holes, back them with tape, fill them with glass impregnated epoxy, wait to cure, then drill to the proper size in order to mount fittings and prevent the spread of water into the wood core. It works well and I recommend that instead of just using a cotton swab around the edges.

That's Mrs Wasp to you!

Remember to put washers on the wooden backer plate to prevent bolt heads from sinking into the wood. You are making great progress.

That glue you're using must be really good because it's got me glued to this channel lol...

Speaking as an older man, you will regret using the palm of your hand as a hammer. Right tool right job. I used to do that exact thing and my hands ache all the time now.

My Friday Night Fix. A Cold Beer & A Wildling Sailing Episode Ive Been Watching For Years 👍

RE WASPS:: It might sound funny, but you can hang a stuffed brown paper bag under an eave or somewhere wasps like to build nests, they will think the area occupied and wont stick around.

Hey bud, to avoid tearing out the wood around the drilling area, all you have to do is place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath. In this way the hole remains tear-free.

"SikaFlex the Shit out of it!" I want that on a t-shirt! You're doing a great work, getting the job done and it's very enjoyable viewing.

When I put a bolt and washer (or just a bolt) of stainless steel, I slightly countersink the holes and I pot an o-ring over the shank bolt--and grease it all with a little lanoline before tightening. NOTHING gets past that--neither salt water or fresh. If I am using washers, I countersink both sides. Do not use TOO thick an o-ring, it only needs to be enough to form a FIRM seal. No more rot under deck stanchions , ring bolts or chain plates. I make up my own square stainless steel washers if I can not buy any--I always use square ones on deck on vertical surfaces over wood. I put a corner uppermost--it sheds water and dust and covers a greater area, better spreading the compression load. The O-ring trick also works on wood--as long as it has been epoxy-saturated and is absolutely impervious to water at the surface. Countersink the edges to a 45 degree chamfer, only needs to ne a couple of millimetres--and use a 3 or 4 mm thick o-ring well greased with lanoline.

To avoid wood chipping, I usually drill from both sides. Start with a small pilot hole.

Before putting your chain plates on counter sink slightly on the outside . This creates a reces to form a kind of O ring around the bolt . Little trick of a former boat builder .

A lone Yellow Jacket starting a nest is a Queen. You can't let it go on or before to long You will be driven out.

Dont forget that measuring the angle on the slanting rooftop it becomes a compound angle. You may get to small of an angle compared to blueprints.

What do you think about overdrilling the holes, then filling them completely with epoxy and then drill a new hole just through the epoxy? Also, to prevent rip out on the other side while drilling: just place a scrap piece of wood underneath and clamp it down, that should prevent rip out...(works also with a circular saw...)

to stop the problem with the holes put another sacrificial timber underneath your backing timber plate and drill down through both pieces

I would have bolted the chain plates from the outside in and used some large washers to spread the load and prevent the compression so deep into those backing boards.

Have you heard of drill-fill-drill? To seal the sides of holes, drill oversize, fill the entire hole with thickened epoxy, then redrill at the size you need. That not only waterproofs it, but gives you a strong, hard layer next to the bolt. Remember how much water damage you had around screw and bolt holes, and make sure all the new ones are better protected! You're making great progress. I'm really looking forward to seeing the mast go up.

You are doing so much work, I would recommend putting a metal plate on the inside instead of wood to anyone doing this. Better for bolts to be in traction against metal and spread the load on the weak parts.

maybe using a little bit of painters tape on the other side might help with the fibers breaking

Pliers on threads never good, try 3 nuts, 2 make a lock nut while you tighten the third, works if you have enough thread length, respect to the one man job, there's always a way!

Hello, Bravo. Good work. Yes that’s true, better using bolt not completely threaded entire length. But that’s also so difficult to find them… you progress well. Bravo. So much work to do, with bad weather. Bravo, bravo… Croix du Sud , Patrick and Sylvie

19:11 yeah classic wasps nest starting there. Make sure it's not moved construction somewhere else. They can build a little nest really quick, about the size of a golf ball.

Easy tip to stop the wood splintering the back of a drill hole is to place a couple of strips of the blue masking tape over where the hole will come through. A sacrificial piece of wood under the hole drilled wood will make it firmer still.

For the rip out when drilling, putting a piece of scrap wood behind/under the piece you are drilling can help with that.

The best way I’ve found to seal holes is to first drill them oversize, then fill them with epoxy and then redrill the hole in the epoxy. It’s the only way You can make sure you have no water ingress.

While you haven't installed the mast just yet read up on lightning protection. From the top of the mast all the way down to the lowest point of the 2 hulls. It might also be useful to pre-wire the mast for lights, radio antenna and maybe a forward looking mini camera.

Letting the saw do the work your certainly learning I have watched you from the begining and I used to worry about your lack of skills but now I can see how much you have improved .I am confident I will see you sail around the world and I wont be worrying about your ability to face the problems you may face on your travels.

you are great at editing videos, selecting music and shots, and all this is an addition to great content. Not to mention the great job you do.

Nice moon shot

If your getting wood ripping out the other side when you drill bud,. What I tend to do is use a smaller drillbit first, all the way through. Then you can use the correct sized drillbit on one side halfway through and then just flip the wood and go all the way through, so no tear out.

Sacrificial wood will stop the drill bits from busting through cause chips.

Tip to stop the drillbit from mangling the exit hole...place some scrap wood underneath and drill through into the scrap.

Shear is your worst problem in wood. My 25' Evelyn had a bad problem with the bolts shearing the wood in the bulkhead. I had to extend the backing stainless steel plates down and add more bolts. Make sure the bolts clamp down hard and compress the wood. Otherwise the bolts will shear and elongate the bolt holes in the wood. You need more bolts and more clamping area.

To prevent (most) blow out, place the work on a scrap backing plate and drill through. The tighter your work is pressed to the scrap backing, the less blow out you get.

It’s nice to see how much care and patience,you’re putting into your work now.😊

For nice holes, get yourself a set of Brad Point Bits. They have a "blade" that cuts along the outer edge of the hole that will nicely cut a hole. Always drill a small pilot hole as well. If all you have are standard bits, drill a small pilot hole and then with the proper size start on one side of the wood and then finish the other side but try not to push all the way thru. Another method is to drill into sacrificial wood directly under the workpiece. Clamp both together for a seamess transfer betweens pieces of wood. Brad point bits are the bomb tho.. and always use sacrifical wood under when possible.

tip; put masking tape over the others side of the plank to the drill to help with chip out. take your time at the last 3 mill of the hole , back off the pressure then :)

Nice video... Your kindness to the wasp is understable... Sentinent being all deserve to live. ☮️

Drill-Fill-Drill Once you get all of the holes lined up Drill over sized through the cabin top and backing plates. Then Fill completely with thickened epoxy then drill original size hole.

To stop drill spitting wood out put another piece of wood on the back to stop it, when sawing put your index finger out straight to guide the saw, when routing timber (the rounds edges youwere doing) do the two long sides before the ends it will stop corners breaking out. Mark you are a joy to watch what your doing some people would never takle.

The plant reminded me of the movie WaterWorld with Kevin Cosner with nearly same boat.

Been watching since long before Minke and I'm a dual citizen between Canada and America and a permanent resident of the Philippines. I grew up in Minnesota on a farm and spent the spent the majority of adult life in Dallas area. Life long dream is to have a liveaboard to spend part of the year on. I watch a Vlogger from Dallas area who has a farm he grew up on and is a permanent resident of the Philippines and he is also a subscriber to your channel because he's also a multiple boat owner and a fan of boat building channels. Another example of small world.

When drilling a thru hole place a piece of scrap wood under it to avoid that annoying break out, try to find an old small drill press the cheap old ones are fine.

Great update. 2x👍 Put a spare bit of wood behind t he hole your drilling and drill trough the chain plate backer into the scrap wood should stop break out.

That dynamia weave looks good. Pretty soon you're going to be splicing dynamia line in your sleep bud. Keep it going looks great

I'm sure you must be feeling a bit of excitement now. You are close to setting up the rigging. Can't wait to see that go up.

Press on, the end is in sight!

Great episode. Lots of work and not so much unnecessary talking about obvious things. Looks good what you are doing!

I really like the mellow music and work sounds in this video.

like everyone else said lol.... to fix the ripped/fraid edges on the boards when drilling through, you can put a scrap piece of board under the wood you need to drill through, having the extra wood underneath, the drill bit won't rip the board.

I think you might consider watching sail life on KZfaq. The guy on there oversized drilled all his through holes and filled them with thickened epoxy. Then he redrilled them to the correct size so he didn't have to worry about water getting into the wood or insulation. Just a thought, but I am no boat builder. Love watching your channel.

Mark, a few thoughts: as a number of people have already said use a sacrificial piece of wood behind when you’re drilling and you will not get burst through. when preparing through holes, it’s usually better to drill them oversized by about 50%, then completely fill them with thicken, epoxy, and when set, drill them out to the correct diameter. This gives you a wall thickness of epoxy that does a much better job of preventing seepage into the wood that you drilled through. I also agree with the remark that you should use bolts that are only threaded on these last section and our large a smooth diameter to prevent in the holes as they work. also, epoxy does not need a great deal of pressure and full squeeze out. If you’re using it thicken, then the whole purposes to create a fibre reinforced bond between surfaces that may vary and not be perfectly made less epoxy with full squeeze out will certainly mean that some areas have squeezed all the epoxy out from between both faces so only moderate pressure should be used in my experience. This is a good thing because it’s a lot easier to do.

Your doing well Mark you seem more relaxed now adays well done

Dan’s the man!

Oh my days Mark, that Drill Game Of yours is on point from all those broken burnt out bits of the past ! On Wards and upwards, time to set Sail

You are doing great, young Jedi.

I just watched Mark single freehand sharpen a drill on a right angle grinder. Is this an imposter? Lol great stuff Mark thanks for the video.

Love your show and I am sorry that I am too old to tackle a project like that myself! That's a mommy wasp and please don't knock things into holes with the flat of your hand! Easy way to lose use of a hand for a week or two while a tendon or bone heals...

Mark, what all the other sailing channels do when drilling holes in their decks that have any kind of timber core, they drill oversized holes, then completely fill the hole with epoxy. once it is hardened, then they drill out the smaller correct size for the screw or bolt and all you have then is a complete epoxy hole and no core in sight, thus saving any water from ever getting into the core. What you were doing in the video will still allow water to get into the timber core.

I see you have fully embraced the slow and steady way of the drilling. Good for you my friend, good for you.

Looks like the glue you used for the wood plugs was a 1-component Polyurethane glue. They cure with the humidity in the air and wood and are known as one of the best glue for wood and outsoor use. I am surpriced to see so much Epoxy used for wood gluing. I concider Polyurethane better for that. There are many brands, like Sika, Casco, Illbruk etc. in rheumatologist market. They do naturally expand a bit and therefore fill gaps and small cavities. Well done in this episode. Again 😊

We like old credit cards for use in spreading epoxy and sealant…and filler, too. LOVE your progress. Great not to rush. You are rockin’ it, Mark! 😎❤️🥰😎❤️🥰

Just keep on keeping on Mark, won’t be long and you will be doing a shake down sail!!!

Drill a pilot hole and then drill from both sides the correct size, a new breakthrough 🤣⛵️

When you epoxy a hole in wood, you have two choices, make the hole oversize, fill with thickened epoxy (use tape to hold it in place) and when set, drill out to the correct size. Or, coat the hole with straight epoxy and it will soak into the wood, then you can chase the hole with the same drill used to make it and you will only shave off the excess, leaving the epoxy soaked wood to protect the hole. Re-coating the hole will just reduce the diameter below clearance size and require re-drilling, so, one coat should be good...

Place another sacrificial piece underneath to prevent the blowout on the backside of the wood. Keep up the good work!

10:40 You knew it before. Just drill on some sacrificial wood.

Soothing music while watching

Man, you are one heck of an inspiration. I like the way you talk about your processes and quality as you go. It helps it all seem real to us armchair helpers.

Good news, the more holes you drill in your boat, the easier it gets 👍. West System has great penetration so you shouldn’t need to fill your holes again. The chain plates are looking great.

Mark with each video you are becoming more professional in the way you are building thing great work

A Forster bit for clean cuts in wood. The pin point punches through first then you turn the wood over, place the sharp point into that hole and complete drilling the hole from the back side without causing splintering.

It takes so much time to work alone without a helper. Filming and editing on top of it, it’s enormous job. You are doing great! 🎉

10:53 Clamp another piece of scrap/sacrificial wood underneath before you drill and remove after, that can reduce tear out.

10:30 You can add painters tape to the opposite side of the wood to prevent splintering.

Brad-point bits will help with tearout

Drill your stainless steel with selfmade drill oil.: Water mixed mixed with some coffee creamer. The angle for sharping your drill is importen. Search advices on the internet.

Put some large diameter washers under the bolt heads. That way the load gets spread and you won't pull the bolt heads into the wood.

That is the right glue for the plugs, moisture cure polyurethane.

So the answer to the bolt through holes is to re-drill them oversized through the hull large enough that you don't have trouble getting the bolts in after the epoxy is in otherwise you will allow water ingress again by filing the epoxy out of the holes to get them in.

My way off stopping splintering on the opposite side of timber when drilling through, it is to pilot hole it right through first with a small drill, turn the timber over, fit the bigger drill your using for the holes and drill into the timber about halfway or less, then turn the timber over again and drill the hole right through, simple, no splinters either side :)

You continue to amaze me how you are putting this together. I hope it maintains its sea worthiness and allows you many hours of enjoyment.

To really protect the holes, overdrill the hole by about 1/8" or so and fill and re-drill. So for a 1/2" hole, drill the original 1/2", then take the piece off, then drill a 5/8" hole. Then put a bit of tape on the back and fill the hole with epoxy. Then when it goes off, finally, re-drill in the correct size. You end up with the correct size hole but with a good boundary layer of epoxy around your hole. No water intrusion, no problems.

You are doing great keep her lit.

Barracuda, bending steel, backing plates, oh my! Really enjoyed watching -- great content and terrific progress.

For the holes, it's about the wood wicking up the epoxy. stabilizing it to the weather and pressure of the bolts. Unless you are sanding back to bare wood it should be ok.

You'll definitely be sailing again this summer. I'm predicting a launch on the 12th August.

To help avoide breakout when drilling timber place the timber on a sacrifichal timber that you will drill into 3-5mm PVA is ok for plugs as all it's doing is holding the plug in and sealing the end grain and will be easier to remove when needed. If using foaming glue use only a small amount around the plug but not under it "between the plug and screw" as that will push the plug out.

My Friday fix! 👍🏽😎

When drilling through wood have a piece of backing wood beneath to avoid tear out.

You get better everyday. Great work!

Try a drop of oil when drilling metal. You'll break far less bits. Like watching your project.