My go to compound. Does cut atleast the same as tlc+ at half price.

Homeslice 🤣

Thank you and my absolute pleasure mate.

Greatly appreciate that mate, thank you.

Thanks mate and I really appreciate you sharing your thoughts and experiences here.

I like the ergonomics/size of eb351 15 better than the Milwuakee M18 15, but the M18 15 is way more powerful!

I have the Milwaukee m18 with 21 mm throw. Like you said it’s a bit heavy but it’s so bloody nice to work with. Really great ergo like you said.

Yes I’ve used S3Gold a lot in the past and is without a doubt one of the best compounds ever made as is S30+. I do however feel that since S3’s release compounds have progressed, so in today’s market it is starting to feel a little dated, especially with S2 Black that seems to both cut and finish better. Compounds have just gotten so good in the past few years so there may be a few newer compounds worth looking at. S30+ however is still a gem even in today’s market.

Appreciate it mate, thank you!

Appreciate that, thanks!

Thanks mate and great to hear you’ve been having great success with those compounds and machines!

Thanks and my absolute pleasure!

Yeah ive used some of their stuff and love it but at twice the price its rough lol

Yeah it sucks because I LOVE snow+ and purge but the price just doesn’t justify me using it 😕

how much is it in ozzy?

@@addiresells7832I bought nv snow+ foam and nv snow ph neutral was together in a pack for 33 aud.

The amusing thing is companies like NV are able to exist because of logistical issues and a long history of Australia being so isolated that they've had to develop their own engineering and manufacturing of which they are some of the best in the world not to mention closer ties with the Asian manufacturers and have had a history of being able to sort through that confusion. At the end of the day it is a luxury as I'm sure there's something far more price effective for your market. Luckily for things like polishes and compounds a lot of times for your average consumer, you're really not going to use it that often and a bottle will go a little long way. For other things like washes and solutions, things would have to be extremely concentrated like something akin to the CarPro washes but you could also see why retailers would really not want to have things where the consumer could mess it up the stateside because many of us measure by the glug. And the end high concentration stuff is kind of reserved for professionals and manufacturers and not for the consumers. Luckily, we are insanely fortunate to have so many of the options that we do have and access to our local professional items and a lot of our imports are fairly reasonable compared to some of the tariffs and logistical costs than many other places face. It's really a matter of value to you if you're not a professional and if you are, then of course you have a business plan that you have to craft and try and figure out its viability. I think looking past the consumer stuff you can find stuff that is just as affordable per use, or even more affordable as you step into more of what the pros use. I feel like retail products kind of gouge us and a lot of what we're paying for is for the product to be dumbed down so that we can eyeball it and they dont get a bad review because we're too stupid to read the label or measure anything. I've actually grown to appreciate Meguire's even more over the years. I also really like the 3D brand and I specifically have high glossifier Chemical Brothers for washing family and friends cars since it has that shininess that normal people are attracted to but I just used boring no smell Carpro soap for my own cars. We all have our own personal value points for our own markets. The car did telling market in a lot of ways is similar to the cosmetics market as you try and find the proper product to meet your need and your price point with a ton of marketing, hype and a lot of products that promise the world with ultra exotic formulations from foreign places and is filled with diminishing returns. Just look to cultivate your arsenal and tool set. Much like when Sandro was doing all the stuff with Meguire's mother's and turtle wax his weighting system would obviously be affected by the amount that the products cost for him and that would be silly for me to tell him no this is the best value product just because that's what I believe because in my market suddenly it's 40% cheaper. I just remind myself I could live in a lot of places where logistics and tariffs are even more challenging and they don't have a great local offering either. The seaweed isn't always greener.

Appreciate that mate, thank you

What's the best pad to use with 3D One step? I have tried the Lake Country's CCS Foam Pad (Orange) and still leaves a bit of haze on softer paints.

@@KingRockets have you tried using nv finesse. I find that it dusts quite a bit but nv finesse is by far my favourite atm. Do you have the lake country hdo pads.

@@davidball. I have not used NV Finesse. Still have a bottle of 3D one and Sonax Perfect Finsih to get through. I just use the regular ccs foam pads not the hdo pads.

@@KingRockets hdo pads could help but other than that I’m not to sure

​@@KingRockets - Those orange ccs pads were their flagship cutting pads about ten years ago. Try the white or blck ccs to finish with 3D ONE. At work, I've been able to finish with it just using the orange HDO pads we have. It's been said that the orange foam is the same as the orange ccs, but I haven't used the orange ccs/flats in ages. There have been times when I just couldn't finish down with ONE for whatever reason. In those very few instances I will switch to 3D AAT502. At home I use Rupes line of pads, so their yellow or white foams will get the job done.

Greatly appreciate it Bob, thanks as always mate!

I think you mean "I can't recommend it ENOUGH"

The label is incorrect- misprint

Thanks and hope all is well with you mate!

It’s super nice to hear that and really appreciate the comment and support. Thanks my friend.

The wipe off of 3D one isn’t worth it to me or I need to polish longer to break it down for an easier wipe off

@@jdmkidk24if you let the 3d sit for a bit it wipes of without residue

@@davidball. I have noticed that. I usually do one side of a car before going back and it’s better. For me I’ve found better stuff, if your shop does PPF I can see where 3D One will be good to have

​- I find that it's VERY easy to over use it. On a foam polishing pad I start with four "micro dots" of product on a 5.5" pad, and only reload if needed with to "micro dots". Super easy wipe off with less product. Sometimes microfiber pads cause a enough heat to cause a challenging wipe off, but that's usually if I'm over working it.

​@@jdmkidk24- We do PPF and windows tinting in the same shop environment, and the dustless nature of ONE is appreciated by the film techs - which is what I'm going to be trained in next.

the 2" on the PXE80 with the APS plate is my most used setup other than my Rupes 15mkiii/Mille

@@kylechow908 ppl missed out how really good the PXE80 is with a 2”.

I've found the 2.5" Shinemate Microfibre 10 pack is the best value for the setup. 30$CAD where I live!@@AmirAbdullah

@@kylechow908 oh yeah , ok post a link if you can.

Thanks Jordan and I think the T130’s are very close to the LC HDO wool pads in cut and finish. I don’t feel I’ve had enough time with them to draw absolute conclusions but I’d certainly say give them a go!

Generally speaking I think they will be give or take close - both Ultimate Compound and DA fine are medium or one step compounds in my opinion. I would have to do a direct comparison to say which one has more cut.

Nv Precision and especially Nv Finesse

Appreciate that and your thoughts and experience there. I’ve been a big fan of Rupes, Flex and Shine polishers, I’ve got loads of reviews on all three brands on this channel. But in the least few years Shine Mate has just been smashing it while the other two brands have been pretty quite. It’s always subjective as to what each detailer or enthusiast likes and prefers machine wise - I disagree that Rupes is outright better, though I have certainly loved many of their past machines and continue to do so. I love competition, it’s what gives us the best new machines at the best price and I’d like to see both Rupes and Flex come to the table a bit more and update their older machines.

another brand snob!!!!

The T120 is the most aggressive/cut, then the Rupes blue, the yellow Shine Mate, the LC Blue HDO, the LC Orange HDO and the Rupes Yellow.

Hi Sandro, could you please include shine mate blue and orange in the previous list if possible please.

The Shine Mate Blue would come after the LC blue HDO and sit the same as the Rupes yellow

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks Sandro. So far the list is: Green Shinemate>Rupes Blue>Yellow Shinemate>Blue HDO>Orange HDO>Rupes Yellow/Blue Shinemate. Could you please place shinemate orange? I predict it would be similar to an orange HDO but would love your professional opinion. This could be an interesting video topic, comparing the cut/density of modern foam pads.

Yes the the SM Orange is the same grade as the LC orange and Rupes yellow. Maybe this video will also be helpful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/epp9lbKX3afXYYk.html&feature=sharec

Thanks, and being the Audi’s typically have quite hard paint 3D One could be a good choice, but I’d tend to suggest a lighter foam pad (at least to start with) maybe something like the Shine Mate Blue or Yellow foam pads or the Lake County Orange or Blue HDO/SDO pads being that it’s only light swirls you’re addressing.

It really depends on the paint type and defects as that’s makes all the difference as to which pads I’ll use with each compound or polish. Maybe the video below will be helpful in explaining which pads I use and why: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/epp9lbKX3afXYYk.htmlsi=EkOzFtSbvYZhP91V

And one more question. In ur videos u say "to maintain the ceramic coating" u mostly use some spray coatings over it like flexwax or gyon. Can u use something else aswell like Fuso (pastwax) or polymer base products ( like polymernetshield)or would that destroy the ceramic?

Unfortunately I haven’t used that Turtlewax product so I don’t know. In regards to maintaining a ceramic coating with a top coat, typically I’d suggest an SiO2 sealant or quick detailer that in essence contains a lighter concentration of the same active ingredients that a more durable ceramic coating has.

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok got it. Thank u i keep that in mind. I was just wondering because if u use first layer fuso and go later over it with an Spray sealed it somehow destroys the hydrophobic propertys

Thanks and hopefully that will be another chapter in this series 🙂

Solution Finish is pretty great

Both are great pads and I’m not sure I’ve done a direct comparison between them, but I’d guess the results in terms of cut and finish could be similar, maybe the Scholl pads could finish a touch better and the LC pads cut a touch more. Spider pads can also tend to dust more than uniform flat pads and deteriorate a touch a touch quicker.

If they are just water spots, something like Carpro Spotless 2.0 should work well, but if they have progressed to water etchings you will need to use an abrasive car polish or compound

Eraser is a panel wipe to remove oils/residue after washing/drying, polishing etc. Essence is a primer/AIO polish used to polish/refine and enhance car paint - it can also be ceramic coated over.

Different detailers and enthusiasts prefer different things in their setups, but I prefer using the same size batching plate for the same size pad, and a 3” is probably going to be the best all round mini size to complement your larger machine and pads. 2 and 1 inch pads are also handy at times but a little less used overall.

S40 can be a good trouble shooting polish to have, but I’ve personally found that 9 times out of 10 S30+ with finish better, though it can dust a little more than S40, both are super easy to wipe off.

​@@CarCraftAutoDetailingcurious to know how does S30+ compared to meguiars ultimate polish. As I'm planning to buy a good polish anytime soon.

Would like to see comparison video of meguiars ultimate polish vs Scholl S30+

Yes I use S40 occasionally. Overall S30+ is better in terms of cut and finish for most paint types, though occasionally some paint types respond better to S40. I would say the wipe off is very easy with both though S30+ can dust a touch more generally speaking.

I honestly don’t find a huge difference with the diamonds, they perhaps run a touch cooler and may help finishing abilities a little but I wouldn’t say it’s a huge difference.

Thanks and completely agree that even the lightest of microfibre pads still tend to cut extremely well, I’ll be interested to test these Rupes ones more and if time allows I’m certainly happy to review them again.

Yes, I wouldn’t say they were my favourites but I thought they were ok

I’ve got a few video reviews on TW Hybrid products which you can have a look at - I think I’ve liked some more than others so it depends, and I know quite a few detailers do speak highly of them so I’m sure it could be a great option.

It’s probably the best value wool cutting pad on the market, cuts very well, the finish is reasonable for a cutting pad and seems pretty durable at a great price point.

The 605 is a large full size polisher, and if you’re looking for your first machine that would be the one to go for. The 603 is a smaller mini polisher which can be a great accompanying polisher to the 605, but not really a polisher to do a whole car on its own.

I would go the sunmatch4, the mini just isn’t bright enough on darker paints to highlight the defects adequately

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you so much

I haven’t used 1 and done but typically just look for a foam polishing pad such as the Rupes yellow foam or Lake County Orange Foam SDO or HDO

Thanks and typically this is revealed when you polish the vehicle: if even minor defects are difficult to remove it tends to be hard paint and if defects are removed quite easily but you are left with lots of compounding haze it’s tends to be a soft paint. Lexus typically has soft paint but honestly it doesn’t change the way you approach paint correction or maintenance, it’s just something that comes to light and with some experience you learn to identify hard vs soft paints relatively easy.

I would personally tend to go UK3.0 + SiC, I think that will be a more term combination. I would also suggest Gliss as a great mid-life coating topper maybe after a 12mth followup coating strip down clean and then topper. Durability is a tough one due to all the variables with coating maintenance but I think 2yrs+ is quite reasonable.

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks mate, I also managed to finish down the paint I was having issues with. NV Finesse, Speed 4 on my EX605, Shinemate Red - no pressure, spray a spritz of water and it finished perfectly, no holograms.

A large 5” dual action car machine polisher is perhaps the best place to start. Shine mate machine are typically quite affordable, high performing and very durable so they could be a great option- maybe the EX620 5” 15mm could be a good choice.

Yes, here’s a link to a video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q5aGmcqrxNmrnKc.html&feature=sharec

I think you should be using different pads depending on what the paint is like in terms of hardness/softness and the level of the existing defects - may be this video with help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNqVo6Rk3NC0ko0.html&feature=sharec

Thank you for you help it can be quite overwhelming for a beginner!

It’s still a solid and capable machine, but I do think it lacks the extra torque and top end speed of the corded Ex603 3” Shine Mate.

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing it’s crazy the shine mate 3 inch polisher is around $180 here in the US vs the rupes 3 inch polisher is right around $300 or so. I think I’ll be picking up the shine mate 3 inch. Looks like it’s a little beast.

Lacks torque. I bought it and wish I didn't.

Autosol Metal polish is quite cheap and quite good

@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I mean wich tools ? My steelies are painted I used compound polish , but I probably need some " dremel " like tools

A macro polisher like the Rupes Nano iBrid or the new Shine Mate EB210 is probably going to be best for more intricate wheels and if they are typical clear coated then like you mention a paint compound and polish with appropriate pads will be the best way to go

No I haven’t

Sometimes on softer on more sensitive paints a smaller 15 or 12mm throw can help you finish better or easier but on most (90%+) paint types you can absolutely finish just as well with a 21mm with the right pad, compound and technique choice.

@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you, appreciate it as always. Can't wait to get the machine!! 🤩

Yes I have, but I personally found they retain a lot of heat for longer, so for me they weren’t all that great.

Yes, much nicer feel over the paint.

No, it’s not really a brand that’s locally sold here - not sure if they even make Australia compliant versions of their polishers, I could be wrong.

🥇Hope you’re doing well friend!

@CarCraftAutoDetailing yes mate! I am always waiting for your videos to learn since not many products are available here and have to order them, but it is also a matter of using what you have. Something I have even done is combining 2 products in a medium pad(cutting and finishing polish compound) so you can also do both in a pass per panel with an awesome cut and finish at the same time. I learned that from Shine Your Light Detailing who I call Mr. Concoction Tim, but I also did it on my own before watching him do it, but I didn't continue with many vehicles. If one doesn't do it many times, one isn't very confident 🤷‍♂️💪.