Thanks

Glad I could help!

Thank you so much!

Awesome, thank you!

It makes the XTool even easier for alignment. Feel free to share if you need some content filler. Trying to get my channel going.

Thanks

Thanks, I think you will like it.

Thanks…

Thanks

Glad you like it. Glad to hear that it was helpful.

Thanks

Thanks, I am not a pro but I try to share the knowledge from my mistakes. Glad you like the channel.

Lots more videos and tips.... You should subscribe... lol .. Thanks

@@TheClackShack looking at getting your jig file, but my question is how do you line up the laser with each jig to ensure your burns are centered? I built a jig for my bottle openers, but when I try and run multiple burns within my jig, they are not centered, even though I am starting off where the center of my jig was marked when the jig was made. I see yours will line up everything and keep it straight, but where do you set your laser on yours and how to make sure your coins are always centered? That would be a good video.

Thanks..

Thanks for watching. Glad you like it

Wow, thanks!

You’re welcome 😊

It makes it easier... Thanks

I made a set of risers into a file that secures the honeycomb and allows the jig to stay attached. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jdVxe7OWyJ2XnoU.html

I have a drum rollup up door with the chains and it isn't bad. Just a manual roll up.

Cool, Thanks.. Hit that subscribe button for more cool stuff...

Thanks.

Glad you like them!

Thanks. Its not too late...

Thanks for watching

Thanks,

Glad you like it. Just be sure to understand the process before trying it. Some folks are having issues.

It can be frustrating. Using a jig and tool line is the most effective way I have found.

Just came back and purchased your files. Very appreciative of them!

Thanks..

Thanks… welcome to the channel

I have the XTool air assist. Check the channel, lots of more videos and recent content.

Thanks

Yes, it took me getting the air assist to be a believer.

Thanks

You will get it figured out.

I almost always run absolute coordinates and home the machine. Only use current for occasional burns

With air assist, 5mm/s at 100%. You can go higher but some of those stubborn spots may hang. Thanks and thanks for watching

@@TheClackShack I don’t know if you e mentioned those settings in a previous video, but I somehow got lucky when I ran a test cut before first commenting to you. On the fly, I chose exactly those settings. I was cutting some -6mm hardboard, and noticed the core of the cut was loose before it reached 3 passes. I was afraid I’d chosen way too much power; and perhaps I had, since I was using a 20W machine??

Thanks

Yes, there are a few variations in some of the older machines but there are files that cover every known variation I have seen.

Built for a customer, wood that I milled from local trees

I use a shop vac that is outside the building and has remote power. I am going to rebuild it with a larger unit. It was a 5 gallon shop vac that I was no longer using. The boundary of the table has holes drilled in it. It creates a suction curtain of sorts

Here is the process..Custom engraved ink pens- the easy way kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r6xnrdGgydfaoJc.html

There is a panel in my XTool kit for the RA2

I have spacers that work with the XTool honeycomb. The jig slides on the legs. My honeycomb holders also make the honeycomb and machine stationary when used.

lower your focus 1/2 the thickness of the material for best cutting results. Only needed with lower wattage machines or thick materials.

I love it. It has paid for itself 3 times in 7 months. Yes, 10 watt

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As far as thickness, for normal stuff, I would stick to 5mm thickness or less. I use 4.5 to 4.8 mm underlayment or luan plywood. I have a video of the way I cut the 4x8 sheets into a usable size. I recommend 16x16 sheets but as long as the design allows, you can use smaller sizes.

I use 1/4 inch (4.5 mm ) luan plywood. It works. Occasionally you may get a warp but the thickness isn't that critical.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fZ99m5Be09jDZXk.html this is the process

Thanks

Yes, the D1 machines are all the same dimensions

Laser box is ok but very basic. I use laserbox on tumblers but for everything else, I use lightburn. The overhead camera is a gamechanger

@@TheClackShack thank you for reaching out. My D1 is on its way and I want to get acquainted with any program I will be using.

My 10 watt, I cut at 4mm/s running 100% for 4 passes. 3 passes is usually enough but on occasion it may hang. Running 4 just makes sure there aren’t any spots holding.

Not sure I am following but I have made an extendable jig panel that has male and female slots that allow mutiple panels to be connected.

@@TheClackShack you’re a legend. I love what u have done. Are you offering these files for download?

@@ianmoore525 In my etsy store already

Cool

I make an adapter that helps hold the honeycomb still and allows for use of the jigs. Video explains the process www.etsy.com/listing/1247318839/xtool-d1-honeycomb-holder-adapter-for

The fit on the jig may be a little tight, there is a very slight difference in many machines. It should (unless there is an issue) be close enough that a piece of sandpaper can adapt it to a perfect fit with some hand sanding inside the hole. I made it tight to avoid slop in the attach. There are some "special" models in the zip for those few occasions that I have had severe issues reported. Let me know if that helps. I have moved to X3, Y3 now for both machines. I never had a slamming issue with it set and turned on. This only effects the "after a burn" it will not help when homing. I suggest slowing down the framing speed to minimize "the bump". The homing uses the framing speed.

They advertise 10 watt output, I cant dispute it. Runs 2 -5 watt modules focused at the same point is what they say.

I use standard 1/4 underlayment. Any lumber store. Some works better than others, mine is usually 4.5 to 4.9 mm actual thickness.

several, just search for "jig" kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l756eKiBsLzVhZc.html

I have a way to extend it but not sure if I made one for my XTool kit. I can see about modifying it to work.

My DIY vacuum table for the XTool D1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ps-bbLigmL6wpYk.html

I have lots of videos that show how to jig stuff.. Here is one. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gbySatahvJ7De4U.html

You could take a large jig board and cut a hole, it would. I do not have one to fit it with.

I don’t have plans for the current enclosure. I will be making another soon and plan to blueprint and video it. Stay tuned

The jig stays at surface level, they just slide off

Thanks

No, home is still home. It will return to that location after a burn

You can ungroup and change the circle size, just don’t move anything

@@TheClackShack do i need to regroup when i am done?

The extension kit replaces the right and left sides, the locking jig fits the front or back legs. I also have an extension in testing that will double the jig space. The Wi-Fi antenna gets in the way on the button end.

Downloaded yesterday. About how many square feet of ply will I need and what is the approximate size to cut the ply to make the jigs? Thank you.

I have lots of videos. You have to cut all the pieces then insert jig files.

No, that sounds like your belts need tensioning. The jig is for holding items in place but for it to work, the machine has to be properly adjusted. In this video, I go over the issues from improper belt tension. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rsmHatilutiUY2w.html

I have a jig folder in my burn files

What kind of plywood is it, just add passes until it falls out, then make a note of it. I use what is called 1/4 inch in the store. It is actually 4.5 mm if you measure it

Are you focusing the laser? It is a 10 watt? What software are you running?

@@TheClackShack I am using the kickstand on the side on the laser. Using Lightburn. I looked at you jig video again and the wood looked like it had a white finish to it. I did cut some 2.7mm plywood and it cut just about everything in 2 passes.

@@JoeL-sc4cy this plywood I use is made from poplar wood, it is a fairly soft wood. If what you have is oak, maple or some other wood it will be harder to cut.

I do not have the machine to test or make a jig for it but you could use my interchangeable jig and a large jig board and create your own fairly easy. Some people have used command strips Velcro and a blank jig board to make their own.

Thays a great idea, thank you

Cut all the pieces, snap them together. Then lay out the jig in a file. This may help. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gbySatahvJ7De4U.html

@@TheClackShack thank you. Your the best

It was designed for lightburn. I haven’t used it in laserbox. I am not sure how well it would work with the “blue dot” starting point as far as a jig. You could use it to square your work. I do use laserbox with the rotary and that application it works well.

I have one built for the lm3

@@TheClackShack Is that an option in Etsy

Depending on the burns, I just add to the overall length My machines have very little kerf and not really enough to matter on most burns. Only snap together boxes so I concern myself with it. Wood contracts and expands with moisture so you may never get it perfect.

I do use it for tumblers and the rotary. Other than that, I used laserbox for the first couple of months while I studied lightburn. That way I could understand the machine.

It is the same jig. In my Etsy shop. I use 4mm or thicker plywood

I don't huff it, I weld also and pretty sure there are toxic fumes in that too. I treat all fumes as if they are toxic and use my vacuum table anytime the laser is running. Car exhaust is also toxic is the ppm is high enough. If ventilation is working properly, I don't think it is an issue. My opinion.

@@TheClackShack Thanks for the reply. My D1 is in an enclosure using an inline exhaust fan so I should be good with a galvanized plate then. Aside: My Mustang is all electric so it doesn't emit any fumes!

​@@Chucka1463 , cool. Actually, electric motors produce Ozone when operating. Ozone too is toxic to humans, but the ppm is what matters. We are surrounded by toxic gases daily. Cool, I bet that mustang is quick being electric. I have seen the new F150 electric on the track and it is fast. Just not sure one would work here due to the distances we travel daily and the lack of charging.

@@TheClackShack This is my fifth Mustang and is, by far, the fastest and most comfortable. I wouldn't feel uncomfortable about the F150 Lightning if I were you. At full charge it can get over 500 miles distance. There are plenty of chargers within 500 miles of anyone. And the best news about an electric vehicle is that with a home charger your tank is full every single morning. And, it can power your home or shop when the utility power fails. Think of it as a Tesla Power Wall with wheels.

@@Chucka1463 , I really like the idea but the $$$ is one hurdle I have to overcome.

The jig is just to square are hold the rotary in place. You will need to set up a file ad a frame to use to avoid having to remeasure everythig. I only have the older rotary.

I buy it in 4x8 foot sheets and cut it. some stores will cut it for you. I use 1/4 underlayment made from poplar wood. Its 4.5mm thick

I power the machine on and rehome. I do not move by hand.

@@TheClackShack Thanks. Seems, though, you should home the head b4 turning on so that it knows where it is from there. What am I missing?

@@howdydoody30204b preference I guess, if you tell it to home and it does so, it knows where it is. I think either way would work. Just gotta do the same every time.

These from Amazon. amzn.to/3FO3MYN

If I had a machine to go by or someone who could provide measurements and testing, I could. I have done a few that way.

I would have to make adjustments but it should. Just cut a jig and attach.

I would have to test it but it would not be an easy job. I can cut 10 mm cedar but it takes 7 passes.

There is one for the XTool D1 on my channel. I sell it in my Etsy shop

Here is a link to the video of how it works. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nJ53jaqqspapYo0.html

Also, in the description of the video, there is an affiliate link to xtools site. It lets them know I helped you decide and I get a small commission.

No, I havent found a need for the larger frame. I can make enough money using the smaller frame. I have adapted my jig system to do larger items without extending.

Power settings are material specific, you will need to determine your settings.

@@TheClackShack What material do you recommend for cutting your jigs. I'm using 3mm plywood. But its not cutting though very well, @ 100% power and at 4 speed.. Am I using wrong material?

It is a box I build that has vacuum ports. My DIY vacuum table for the XTool D1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ps-bbLigmL6wpYk.html

It is a 10 watt output according to Xtool.

@@TheClackShack thanks for the reply

10 watt

The jig can be burned and used in XCS but you need to import the DXF file to avoid resizing.

Etsy, should be links in the video description.

Yes, we are both getting old but still hangin in there

That's awesome so am I and I'm about to pull the trigger on a laser, so I've been watching your videos, very informative thx

www.etsy.com/shop/TheClackShack