Love to hear science is still taught in the US - when I hear of all these crazy flat earthers denying all of science - and invariably being absolutely unable to work with numbers, with formulas, or have the ability to imagine 3-dimensional correlations or analyze in their head a "when this is so, then what are the consequences scenario?" I think the most important thing to bring over to kids is that physics (or chemistry or biology or...) is not something theoretical where you learn the answers by heart to get the grades, but is something that is connected with your life, what you can use, what applies in everyday life. Often experiences you make in everyday life put into numbers. That when you hang soggy pants on a washing line, why it sags through most when you put it in the middle and way less when put at the sides is the parallel of forces you can draw out on a sheet of paper. Or how forces add up to resulting forces - for my gravity denying flat earthers how gravity and centrifugal forces combine, taking a bucket with water on a string and swing it, you can create a flat water surface in the bucket that is oriented in any kind of direction compared to the flat water surface outside the swirled bucket, including upside down. Just one force (centrifugal force) more dominant than the other, that is all it needs. Water conforms it shape and surface orientation to the forces at work. Be it gravity, centrifugal force, cohesion, adhesion, air resistance for falling drops, all combines. Sorry to interfere in your work, but maybe that gives one idea or two. I have a friend that was a meteorologist, too, who went on an expedition into the deepest valley on earth to study a strange wind there, that went only in one direction with up to 50 mph (usually thermal winds revert direction over the day). Even though the valley floor was on 9,000 feet, it is no problem to have a valley 15,000 foot deep when the K2 with 28,000 feet is on one side. They could not use balloons for their measurements as the winds would have blown them too much sideways instead of vertical. So my friend used his hobby, RC model airplanes and developed a high-altitude-optimized electrically powered glider for that. They climbed up to 7,500 feet above ground, had special telescopic glasses that Zeiss had made for them so that they could still see the plane at that height. Science combined with fun, hobby, exotics (Tibet) and adventure.

Way to complex now....Thank goodness EVs are replacing these relics!

Mechanical engineering

Chrysler American Big Automotive Car 🚗

I remember many a time going to our local library to photocopy pages of Chilton's or Motor Manuals. Beat buying those entire books.

@@nononsenseBennett 🙄

Yeah, you really need to be on top of maintenance with timing chains. Modern direct injection engines put more stress on them too due to running the high pressure fuel pump and the extra soot that gets into the oil from direct injection.... Sort of like diesel engine soot). If you want to get long life from a modern engine don't follow the "oil change reminder" in the car... Just change it every 5k (or earlier if you drive less).

It doesn't matter what you drive. Change the oil at or BEFORE the reccomended interval. If you don't, you are doing permenant damage to your engine and risking catostrophic failure.

I always change the oil every 5,000 miles now my 2015 Dodge Dart SXT with 2.4 litter have over 306,000 miles with

@@surferdude4487 Right, I bought the car used, and that was one of the first things I did. But when the mechanic took off the cover, the sludge was a nice, thick coat.

This is especially true for the long chains of DOHC motors. When Lexus switched to the UR V8s with chains like the 4.6L and to a lesser extent in the 5.0L, they had problems with the timing chain tensioners.

Depends if engine is interference or not

Hater...

They aren't that common any more. They never really were so I wouldn't expect too many. Heck I don't even have a census of what he's worked on. Four seems like a lot tbh.

How many are left in roadworthy condition? Of those that are left in the area, why do you assume The Wizard has worked on all of them?

The 1uz was on the top 10 engine list pretty much it's whole life.

​@@williamegler8771 everyone that's maintained by a slightly sane person. There are 3-4 in the lot where I work and all but 1 are daily drivers. The one that's not commonly driven is because the own has like 10 cars. But it still runs and he moves it occasionally

You beat me to it. I have had motorcycles with gear driven cams and they were amazing. mostly Honda v4s but one was a 400cc in line 4 liquid cooled motor with gear driven cams.

Wizard did a good job, he forgot one reason why water pump need to be replaced, worned water pump can locked itself which mean that timing belt will rubbing on seized water pump, it will break which also mean dead engine.

@@altergreenhorn That happened to me ended up with some bent valves

I second that request. I was hoping he'd cover "interference" and "non-interference" in this vid but he went deeper into the function than I thought, and I guess time was an issue. Hopefully he'll cover them in the next one.

An interference engine is one where the pistons will smash into the valves if they're out of time (i.e. timing belt broken). Not all engines will do this and some will clear the valves such as some old Vauxhall engines.

Also important is the quality of the replacement Timing Belt. I would use Gates Brand every time. They have a long history of belt-making. Forget the 'cheapies' when your engine is at stake!

@@peterduxbury927 I always opt for the best....not necessarily the most expensive.....but the best replacement parts. In my book Gates is gold!

@@adotopp1865 And the Mazda FS engine, as well as the Ford CVT.

It's a lot more work to replace the chain(s), because they are internal to the engine. That means there will be cast cover-plates to be removed, the chains and guides cost more, cland there's likely to be a more expensive tensioner to replace. It all has to be put back, taking great care to make sure it is oil-tight. On a well designed engine with a timing belt it ought to be designed with it being a service item in mind. Sadly a lot of manufacturers ignore that part by cramming so much into an engine bay. Nb. Modern timing belts are way better than those 30 years ago. There are now things like Kevlar available.

i changed the timing belt on a gf's sprint in the 90s when she needed a water pump

I agree very stressful on the first start up.😅

​@@perpetualgrin5804 indeed stressful on first attempt. I had that feeling when I first installed induction cooktop in my previous home. One wire wrong and it could have catastrophic consequences. Checked all of multiple times. I haven't done a belt change yet but I'm confident i can do it. I also have a Hayes car manual explaining how to do it properly. Luckily I don't need to remove the engine mount to reach the belt. That would really be a step to far for diy.

Agreed

Agreed, I dont miss timing lights one bit

​@@CarWizardhi

One of my cars is non-interference, used to have two (lost one in an accident 😔). There were so few that were, but I still look it up if I'm considering a used car.

Really good catch you're on the ball

@@chuckb9867 Its not my intention to be critical of car wizard videos or hate in any way. I watch his videos and other youtube mechanics often with the goal of picking up little tips or learning things. Even though this is not an instructional video I assume others may watch for the same reason and may take away something from this one that is incorrect. I know the toyota timing belt replacement procedure quite well and have changed belts on my own 1uz and 3uz toyota/lexus engines so it stood out to me.

@@dlfpv9049 I didn't mean it in any way to badmouth anyone just that I noticed and appreciated you had an Eagle Eye and spotted something others would not have noticed me included may your knowledge help others repair their vehicles better that's all I meant I have a 93 LS400 with around 89000 miles I bought from the original owner who was 93 coincidentally when he passed on and I bought the car off his uncle and I also have a Lexus 330 that I love also 2004 thank you for the reply like I said I didn't mean anything by it

I have always used the physical marks, or at least use them with the painted marks as verification.

Some belts are made to only rotate in one direction. Installing them backwards could result in the belt fraying and failing prematurely. I'm surprised that Car Wizard is not aware of that.

It's almost the same on a Subaru, especially if it's a single cam. Just take the front covers off and replace the tensioner and the idlers. The access is so easy and the belt kit so cheap that the waterpump isn't a must to change if it's still fine on a low mileage car.

Belt technology has come a long way had my honda 3.5 timing belt changed at the 7 year interval and it still looked new had about 80k. Ive seen a few honda v6 with 200k getting the original tb changed (wouldnt recommend that at all but many people neglect honda maintenance

Timing chains also have tensioners just as belts do. Honda Js and Ks both have tensioners. I guess it all depends on your interest in maintenance, I used to prefer chains but now prefer belts after learning about their duties.

@@HarleySLA how are the tensioners on the k series? Is it true somek series like to burn oil?

@@CRAPO2011 K engine tensioners are usually fine as long as you maintain your oil, that's the key for those engines. They will stretch chains with improper OCI, not to mention the possibility of adding guide wear. I've seen and heard of more chains stretching and guide wear, by far, than tensioners failing. I think Ks are well built and designed, so oil burning isn't very common until high mileage, but again depending on maintenance. Cannot stress oil maintenance enough on them. Usually, from what I've gathered, oil burning isn't a problem with them until 250k plus and usually a result of pushing oil changes and/or carbon build up and anything else that can cause excessive ring wear. Of note J engines with VCM are super prone to burn oil, and honestly anything with cylinder deactivation, if you ever plan to buy something with cylinder deactivation be wary because it very likely burns oil on cylinder 3 (if it's a J engine). Pull that plug out, it's on the rear head closest to the driver side), and check for oil on the plug. Other things can cause that, but it's not unusual that it'll be burning oil, especially if the plug tube is free of oil but the plug electrode itself is oil soaked.

Generous Motors did in up to around 1950 as well as Ford unless I am mistaken. They basically were good for the life of the engine. Then they realized it made more profit to use chains as they wear out.

Ford's inline 300 used gears if I'm not mistaken. Diesels use them too.

4.7 or 3.7?

amen, though they really are only practical for single-bank inline engines.

Ram timing gears is better 😉😂😂

That's a wicked good idea I like it

I first seen that on Car SOS, Fuzz Townshend did that on an engine on a stand.

Hot dang that sounds slick.

The problem with that is even though the water pump might still be good when you're replacing the timing belt there's a good chance the water pump will fail before the replacement timing belt needs to be changed again. Then the timing belt will need to be removed again just to change the bad water pump and you'll have to pay the cost of labor (which is the majority of the bill) to have the engine taken apart again just to change the pump. If you're a mechanic and enjoy the work it's not an issue, but if you're a paying customer you'll wind up paying twice in both money and inconvenience for a job that could've and should've been done in one swoop. That's why mechanics recommend doing them both at the same time.

@@peterad1529 That is not going to work on most timing belt engines as you can see even with this TOYOTA engine, you have one or more cogs/rollers with a "shoulder" on it to keep the belt in place while it is in motion. Without the "shoulder", the belt has a very good chance of eventually working it way off the cogs/roller/tensioner, no way to slide a belt on or off with the shoulder in place, especially with tension on the belt. So instead of trying to save time and think your being smart, trying to cheat is just going to cause more trouble down the road, just do it the right way and disassemble the belt system so you can relieve the tension on the belt for removal and installation.