Nice christmas gift ❤ Thanks for letting us be part of this extremely detailed rebuild!
@quinsorochan78337 ай бұрын
Merry Christmas Nik. Seeing you is a gift of it's own. God Bless
@omayrzahid61977 ай бұрын
Never watched a video this long about engines in my life but you make it so interesting. Thank you 🎉
@stevenpower37807 ай бұрын
With m539 restauration by far the best BMW KZfaq channel can t wait for the next video Nüral is a OE supplier they belong to Federal Modul. They made a lot of pistons for the BMW diesel engines like the M57 or N57
@jamestabor5877 ай бұрын
Alex’s channel is fantastic. Sreten is bigger with 100% full time dedication with much bigger resources and sponsors. As far as knowledge and attention to detail on the important specifics, you can’t say one is better than the other.
@johofdo34717 ай бұрын
i cant wait for part 4 your the most educational video maker for the n20 on youtube
@zaraak323i3 ай бұрын
I've just found your channel and I appreciate what you're doing. I work on older BMWs and the newer stuff that I see had me fearing the newer stuff. Your explanations are clear and I feel more confident now, if I see any of the newer stuff. I appreciate the fact that you left in the clip about having to remove the oil squirter for the Valvetronic again. The amount of times I've had to remove something that I've installed because I can't install the thing that it's blocking is frustrating. I'm glad I'm not the only one.
@jamdoney42102 ай бұрын
omg, bro, your filming is brilliant, i've never seen something clear like this thank you, bro ,good job!
@jamestabor5877 ай бұрын
A great Christmas present
@timessix84347 ай бұрын
Thanks, great video, deserves a lot of views and the channel deserves many more subscribers! Outstanding detail and work through together with first class editing.
@moeketsinelson22105 ай бұрын
Your videos are more detailed, thats what am looking for, 10/10 🔥👌You make it look easy, I just subscribed waiting to see more
@morrisngozo62176 ай бұрын
You are the best when it comes to explaining we need videos like that keep up the good work
@quinsorochan78337 ай бұрын
Yessir another Bimmerdoctor vid
@Glypto77 ай бұрын
That BMW special tool cleaning block is unreal. I got one for myself also after seeing the M539 and h2 Motorsports video. BMW is probably wondering why that block is flying off the shelves all of a sudden 😂
@tf141fataljke95 ай бұрын
Thanks bro! Very helpfully! Make reassable same engine at first time by myself :)
@NoRogeR7 ай бұрын
Great episode, very detailed
@azizhachimi87447 ай бұрын
Great job my firend...Keep up the amazing work and the channel will definitely grow over time! New subscriber from Montreal!
@norm49077 ай бұрын
Great job!
@OpenEyesDemon7 ай бұрын
Good job! Waiting for the next part!
@laerciosaranteАй бұрын
bro, good job.
@recorobertos6 ай бұрын
Great video 😊
@Einimas7 ай бұрын
This head would have massive gains just prom the intake bowlwork!
@adem335i87 ай бұрын
Great video!
@edrieahmadi69077 ай бұрын
great job😀
@skipijs53167 ай бұрын
It’s real shame about those pistons. Shows how build can get significantly more expensive unexpectedly. Imagine working on customer car/ engine, and all of hard works pay has to go in unexpected expenses and mechanic doesn’t get nothing.
@TTRenglandR65 ай бұрын
Your hired❗️ Only you can touch my bimmer❗️ Only if you lived in TX.
@rickfresh79598 күн бұрын
Great video - can you do a cost breakdown
@bimmer.doctor8 күн бұрын
Thank you! Check out the rest of the series, I do a cost breakdown in the last episode and talk about whether its worth it or not to do this kind of a job.
@mmerle7 ай бұрын
Merry christmas doc
@kevinmpe83637 ай бұрын
Hi mate. I messed up timing of my n20 when the flywheel locking pin didn't go all the way in as I was timing the cams. Now my crankshaft is not inline with the camshafts hence timing is off getting codes 130e20 and 130f20. How do I get the crankshaft and the camshafts back in line at tdc? Please help
@bekimkrasniqi2576 ай бұрын
Great video, can someone provide me the part number for the crankshaft main bearings, and connecting rod bearings part number
@leontinpreda7 ай бұрын
They are ok clearances of 0.063 in the connecting rod ..... I tend to specify that in the old bearings it was 0.050
@bimmer.doctor7 ай бұрын
Hi there, according to the service manual the spec is 0.025 to 0.071mm. You are very close to the high end of the scale but still technically within spec. Personally, I would maybe try a different set of bearings to see if they fit better.
@leontinpreda7 ай бұрын
Thank you very much for the information
@leontinpreda7 ай бұрын
A whatsapp number or a facebook contact
@piotrwalczewski40502 ай бұрын
Hey, great movie! Why is the scale on the straps 0.25mm to 0.76mm when the technical data says a play of 0.025mm - 0.046mm? I measured using red strips from another company - pastigauge. The scale on them is 0.025mm - 0.175mm. They leave a much larger mark on the tenon, but it is oval. My result is 0.025mm-0.038mm. I'm concerned that there may be too little clearance. Can you explain this to me? Maybe by purchasing green stripes the shape of the trace would automatically decrease, showing a value of 0.25-0.38?
@820performancecomptonbro47 ай бұрын
Hey what up buddy I have a 2015 bmw n20 engine and I had a cylinder 1,3 misfires and found low compression what do you recommend rebuilding it or buying a use low mileage engine and also where to buy it if you know a good place to buy it
@thomas435able6 ай бұрын
Where is part 4 bro I need to put my engine back together
@fastboatster6 ай бұрын
Did you check if balance shaft is seized? No way that would be a seized alternator if you couldn’t turn the engine even with breaker bar
@aqib200020 күн бұрын
Oil pump was already off and he managed to pen the crank bolt with almost no movement
@tp80857 ай бұрын
This really helped tremendously, great video on this N20 engine. One question though. What was the torque specs on the little top spring bolts?
@Hancock_nl7 ай бұрын
Love the detailed explaining as always. Very thorough 👍 When i try to do this myself, i have one concern. When reassembling the head, and before lapping the valves; do the valves need to go back in the spot where they came out of? Or can i get away with putting them in a different spot and just lap them? And what about springs and lifters, same place or can be put in a different spot? Thanks!
@bimmer.doctor7 ай бұрын
Thank you my friend! You are supposed to put everything back in the same location. What I did was use a lot of ziplock bags and label the position of everything I removed, so that I could make sure it goes back together properly. Realistically I don’t know how big of a difference it could make by changing the position of something like the springs as they should be pretty much the same, but I rather just take the extra few minutes to put everything back in the same spot.
@morrisngozo62175 ай бұрын
If I may ask can I use the same number to torque my e 87 because they look the same
@scottcrawford414813 күн бұрын
I am unable to find KS OEM main bearing set for the N20 (that is not from China). King is available. Thoughts?
@bimmer.doctor13 күн бұрын
Yeah, I remember having a hard time finding it. I wanted KS because they are the OE supplier, but King bearings are very well know and shouldn't cause any issues, as long as you check your clearances.
@Foreignsgarage4447 ай бұрын
Where is the link to the service manual
@Ahmed____6 ай бұрын
Which service manual do you use? I haven't found this level of detail on ISTA
@IsaiasCorrea-jl6ty7 ай бұрын
Excelente trabajo amigo bellooooo
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
Hey I noticed you had two guide bearings one in your block and one in the bed plate. Well mine only has 1 guide bearing in the block and a regular bearing in my bed plate? It's never been rebuilt or anything before so that was done at the factory. Is that common or? My bed plate has the groove for the guide bearing as well. It was just not one placed there. Hmm. Have you ever heard of that, will it be alright to reassemble the way it was cause my bearings are mint?
@bimmer.doctor7 ай бұрын
Totally fine to reassemble like that. Originally the N20s only had one (like this one originally) but over time they had a revision to include two. Not sure what issues they were seeing, but I just put the updated parts in and my end play was within spec.
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctorOk cool thanks. Was curious because the bed plate has the cut out groove for the other guide bearing so started looking at my bearings saying to myself I don't recall taking two of those out. Lol I appreciate it very much.
@matthewkepley56313 ай бұрын
9:51 torque spec, 5nm,20nm then 90 degree and then 90 degree again right? Just making sure I’m understanding correctly.
@bimmer.doctor3 ай бұрын
Exactly!
@scottcrawford4148Ай бұрын
Should the rods be replaced? Thanks.
@bimmer.doctorАй бұрын
Hi there. Rods only need to be replaced if the bearing spun because it ruins the bore. Since these were not spun, I reused them.
@og-01107 ай бұрын
+1 sub
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
What kind of oil are you using in your oil squirter can for the cams etc? Break in oil or just the regular Castrol Fully Synthetic?
@bimmer.doctor7 ай бұрын
The pink assembly lube is Redline and the oil is Castrol but non synthetic mineral oil. When I fill it up that's what I'll use to help break in the new rings and then switch to regular full synthetic after that.
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor Ok cool! I have some of the pink Permatex Extra slick lube on the way cause I thought that's what you were using on your cylinder head/cams. And I thought you may have some of the break in oil, Driven, Motul or something like that as far as a mineral oil. Ok in that case I'll probably order up 10 or so quarts of the Driven 5w30 for the break in period. Flush It out after 30 minutes or so after keeping it around 2k-3k RPM's pretty steady then drain that and come back with another 5 quarts of Driven and new filter for the 2nd stretch of around 500 miles for raising up my RPM's more to better set the piston rings. Then after 500 miles flush that and come back with my Castrol Edge fully synthetic that I normally use in it. Getting closer to having everything to start assembling Lol Appreciate the info on everything.
@bimmer.doctor7 ай бұрын
That sounds like a great plan! What engine are you building?
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
Or if cheaper I may check into the Castrol mineral oil you're referring to cause I'm sure it's probably cheaper than Driven. It's definitely on the pricey side but really good break in oil. Thanks, appreciate the help.
@BamaTony737 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor Same one you have here except it's in (or was) in a 2014 BMW X1 28i S drive. N20B20. A buddy of mine gave me a $25 dollar Chinese head gasket to use, and I'm like buddy I really appreciate the gift there but that's exactly why I'm tearing this bimmer down is a blown head gasket. Lol The OEM head gasket is only $126 on FCP EURO and it lasted 14 years so my experience tells me to NOT under any circumstances even considering installing this $25 head gasket that he picked up no telling where. It even looks extremely cheaply made. I'm guessing your build is running well?
@J_o_r_a4 ай бұрын
Такие же поршня стоят nural. Уже 3й год
@bmwn52383 ай бұрын
can you tell us where did you got the koblenschmith rod bearings?
@bimmer.doctor3 ай бұрын
Couldn't find them in stock at any suppliers, so I ended up ordering from someone in Poland through eBay
@bmwn52383 ай бұрын
thanks that is good to know
@352vision5 ай бұрын
Did you reuse the old head bolts?
@bimmer.doctor5 ай бұрын
Never!
@BamaTony733 ай бұрын
Hey how's it been going? Well I got the N20 rebuilt and installed with everything but was wondering if you knew how hot the bottom trim of the cylinder head where the turbo is installed should be with a temp gun pointed on it? It seems pretty hot to me also the oil cooler feels hot along with the high pressure fuel pump at times. Just wondering cause I don't want to rebuild it again if I can keep from it lol I'm getting only one code back power management standby current violation 387F if not mistaken. I had a lean code but noticed I forgot to install one of the intake bolts and that fixed that, but keep in mind this particular car didn't have a turbo manifold shield on it when I bought it and still haven't found anybody that sells one, guess I'll have to definitely check the dealer for that. But how hot should the cylinder head on the bottom where that turbo is and fuel pump and oil cooler? Should they be pretty hot to the touch? Maybe HPFP starting to fail? I'm lost again here
@bimmer.doctor3 ай бұрын
It is definitely going to be very hot. I don't have a temperate range for you unfortunately, but if the car is running and the temp in the dash is where it's supposed to be, nothing to worry about. Anywhere near the turbo is going to get very hot. Have you taken it for a drive yet? I'll have a new video, Part 5, posted on Friday where I finally startup the car.
@BamaTony733 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor I have taken it only like 2 blocks down the road, was scared to chance it didn't know what would happen if I took it further. I haven't seen a temp light yet warning yet and the coolant is staying at the correct level after the bleeding process. I've poured a little Seafoam in the gas tank because it sat up for around 6 months before I put everything back together. When I'm pointing my temp gauge at the bottom of the cylinder head above the turbo I'm getting sometimes 250-260 degrees,F after it's sat about 15 minutes on idle. I've cranked it about a total of 12 times and let it get up to temperature and then shut it off. So hearing this makes me feel better, I know the turbo manifolds can get upwards of 800F But only have caught this one around 450F. Maybe it needs to be driven to open up other modules to read correctly? I don't know I'm not a mechanic I'm lucky to have gotten this BMW back together in the first place but your videos helped with the assembly process on the N20
@BamaTony733 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor The only code I'm getting back is a Power Management standby current violation, friend of mine said that could be a small boost leak or battery getting bad. I just didn't know how many degrees F that bottom trim of the cylinder head could get before causing head gasket failure or worse.
@BamaTony733 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor The car doesn't have a temp gauge it's a 2014 X1 so I'm relying totally on a light to come up and indicate to me that it's too hot of a temperature for the motor. Haven't seen that yet. No leaks are under the vehicle either, I have dry cardboard underneath it in the yard and nothing has dripped but only from the AC.
@bimmer.doctor3 ай бұрын
@BamaTony73 That code has nothing to do with a boost leak, it’s to do with power management. It just means something is drawing more power than it should at standby.
@leontinpreda7 ай бұрын
Hello
@BamaTony735 ай бұрын
Hey I have my cylinder head pretty much finished up with new valve stem seals and lightly lapped. It wasn't too bad. And I have them with QR codes facing upwards like you described to do but noticed a couple of my exhaust valves are slightly opened when I torqued down the exhaust cam to the 12 nm. Is that normal , will they bleed down or what? I heard not all valves are closed at TDC on some cars but it was a question I figured you may know the answer to? I even took it back off and compressed the springs down again to make sure everything was seated properly and when I installed it back and torqued it back down the couple of valves are still slightly opened.
@bimmer.doctor5 ай бұрын
Yes that’s correct, not all valves are closed at TDC. If you want to check to be sure everything is good, just manually rotate each cam a full rotation and make sure all the valves close at some point.
@BamaTony735 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor Man I appreciate that info cause I wasn't sure and I'm trying to do the best job possible and wasn't going to install the cylinder head on the block until hearing back from you or finding out somewhere else. I couldn't find it on Google anywhere. However, I ended up stumbling up on a video that said TDC on exhaust side should be slightly open or at least a couple of them or whatever, and TDC on the intake side the valves should be closed and my intake valves are closed and both cams are facing upwards with the barcodes as you said do. I've done this job exactly the way you instructed so I figured i was doing it by the book 📚 lol
@BamaTony735 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor I know that makes me feel much better and now I can proceed on to the next step which is installing the pistons and new rings in the block. I don't see the logic in doing a rod bearings clearance test as I did on the crank cause my pistons are the same and the bearings are the same, all bearings in the crank case are the same and the ones in the pistons are as well. They looked brand new so I didn't see any reason in replacing anything except the rings. Pistons looked flawless as well. I'm replacing timing chain and guide and oil pump guide and sprockets. New rings, new genuine head gasket l, new rings, new turbo gaskets and o rings, several new hoses. Several more new things.
@BamaTony735 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor New elring head bolts, new valve stem seals are freshly installed, new hub bolt and rod bearing bolts, this thing hopefully will last her a minute when I'm done. Your videos have been awesome in the crucial steps along the way.
@BamaTony735 ай бұрын
@@bimmer.doctor One question that I'm sure you know the answer to and I can't seem to find anywhere other than people guessing is...what are the torque on the motor mount brackets that bolt to the side of the block? Thanks in advance sir
@BamaTony736 ай бұрын
I've run into an issue here. I have noticed there are 10 17mm bed plate bolts in the center obviously but 5 of the bolts are a little shorter than the other 5 larger ones. Could you pls help with the correct orientation on those before I go literally insane here ?
@BamaTony736 ай бұрын
Just got the new ones and was going to run my clearances and noticed 5 are larger. Figured you'd know before anybody exactly where the 5 shorter and 5 larger bed plate center 17mm bolts go in the correct places.
@bimmer.doctor6 ай бұрын
The main 10 bed plate bolts should be the same! P/N 11117589711 The perimeter bolts have 4 longer ones as I mentioned in the video. Maybe they gave you the wrong parts?
@BamaTony736 ай бұрын
They gave me the correct ones because I compared them to the old ones that I took out of the car. So there are 5 shorter ones, so that leaves one longer one left over but I don't guess it matters if I put 4 longer ones on the ends. Hmm kind of weird
@BamaTony736 ай бұрын
There's 10 total as you know. Not trying to confuse you. Yes 5 are a bit longer than the other 5 a bit smaller ones. Really strange set up considering there's 10 and 5 shorter ones are the same size and there are 5 larger ones the same size. I'm completely lost one this one lmao
@bimmer.doctor6 ай бұрын
@BamaTony73 Well now i’m definitely confused LOL! There’s 10 17mm bolts, which are all the same length, same part number I gave you before. Seen at 9:31 in the video. Are you talking about those?
@tonydanev18477 ай бұрын
Pity you didn’t clean the outside of the nether block
@Arqjbn6 ай бұрын
Hi @bimmer.doctor thank you for these great videos, it’s helps a lot. Where can I order the the head gasket and seal kit (el ring). I’m looking the kit like you show here.
@bimmer.doctor6 ай бұрын
Hi there, the seal kit is Elring 522190, the head gasket is Elring 364525