In the middle of this rn.. going tomorrow to have them test my alternator but great tip on having them test the new one before I put in the work 🙏

Ultima is a trash brand don't buy electronics from autozone or oreilly they are the same store that sells the same garbage but if ur a technician and that's what they want go ahead and do it it'll give u multiple times to get paid

I have the same problem, new battery and a new alternator from Amazon. Guess I need to check the new alternator. Seems that is getting to be a common problem with part’s nowadays.

@@doug3805 Well, I found my problem. It was a dirty throttle body. Once engine got to temp and the butterfly in the tb closed to idle position there was too much carbon buildup/ sludge around the edges to allow enough air for a proper idle. Wasn’t spinning the alternator fast enough, causing a low idle and drawing the battery after vehicle warms up. Had no idea u were supposed to do this every 60-80k miles and mine’s at 240k. An easy way to tell if this is your problem, if after the vehicle warms up and the idle drops below 700rpm then it’s very likely. (Idle is never supposed to go below 700 at idle or 600 veh in drive and at a stop with foot on the brake)

same exact situation for me too

Good

Brake cleaner

Good

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Almost guaranteed you have a ground problem on the exciter circuit

Same. What was the issue and how did you get it fixed?

Maybe Depends on how discharged the battery is. Driving is better- higher output from alternator. Personally I’d just put it on a 10A or 15A smart charger for a day.

Nope drive at high rpm’s instead

Check your starter. Had similar intermittent no-cranks - turned out OEM starter at 200k miles was packed full of carbon dust from worn brushes and the dust was binding the starter. Disassembled the starter and cleaned out the carbon dust, reassembled/reinstalled & problem gone at $0. :)

@@RickOSidhe I had another go at it but I haven’t looked at the starter just yet, I had a jump pack hooked up to the battery and noticed when it starts clicking the volts from the battery go from 12 to 8 and would go back to 12 when we stop cranking it

@@TheKingDomm First step, always check your grounds and battery cables & connections. The voltage drop sounds like the starter is getting sufficient power and engaging, but it's binding on something. The fact that you hear clicking means the solenoid is likely still okay. If you hear the clicking and the starter motor spinning (whirrrr!), but it's not engaging the flywheel, then the problem might be with the bendix gear - either stuck/binding or the teeth are worn down. In the absolute worst-case scenario, you've got a spot on the flywheel with missing/broken/worn teeth. If you suspect this, turn the engine over by hand for an 1/8th of a revolution. If the starter engages, then its a pretty good indication that the flywheel is your problem. For what it's worth, on my wife's CRV issue, it manifested as an occasional no-crank when the engine was fully warmed up. The issue was fairly intermittent, but occurred with regularity. Battery tested okay, alternator tested okay, only thing left to check on was the starter. In typical modern fashion, R&Ring the starter required removal of the intake system to gain access, but it wasn't that big of a deal. Replacing the alternator is much worse on these K24 second-gen CRVs. :/

Alternator is dead

Check alternator fuse or multifuse in the fuse box if there is one.

Did u get it from a autozone or oreilly? If so that is ur problem right there

Defective/faulty alternator?

Same here, brand new alternator and won’t charge

@@khaosjr-yt2632did you get it figured out?

next thing I think I'm going to try is a new voltage regulator

Bad fuse under dash

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Check wiring of the radio

Good work

Welcome!

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