Once you've moved and settled in to your new environment, my suggestions remain the same: 1. Thoroughly check vacuum systems on car. Remember to check all vacuum and electrical connections to transmission, as "by the book" as possible. Consult Ken Bergsma if necessary. 2. Check fuel pressure using a gauge. Check at idle and under load (In gear, brake on) 3. Check catalytic converters. You may need to replace multiple vacuum system components. You may need to thoroughly flush the fuel system and replace all filters (again). You may need to measure fuel system voltages while the car is running. It would likely be best to replace all fuel injectors if the problem proves to be primarily fuel related. Lastly, your transmission may still suck if the above systems test OK, or even if they are significantly repaired and some issues (Like scary shifting) persist. I own a 32 (Even older and scarier) year old Volvo. You have my sympathies.

Come back brother your awesome. Love your vids

Your content always makes me smile!

Mike i miss your video.s i hoop when your having time again to see ya back with new video.s looking forward .

Lol gotta love the “oh hail no!” Sound effect!

I'm just here for the great music! ; )

Hey Mike hope everything is good with your move and new job, hope to see more of your videos soon need a good laugh cheers

Glad you posted a new video for us today. You have your own way to keep people at ease with your absolute "Mike technique" for sure. Someone else mentioned cap and rotor and they do go hand in hand with the plugs you did. Guaranteed crud on those as well. (Ask if they have a heavy duty cap) as those (made of bakelite) don't allow moisture in. Bogging down and quitting, I would think in the carbernator. Still wish you lived closer as I would have to make you a weasel deal on one of those cars. Love them all and find them intriguing to look at. Good job! Sonny(CT)

Looks like you have a couple of things going on! One is bad injector seat's and the throttle body looks dirty and leaking also cap and rotor!/love the vids keep them coming!

I think the best thing to do is, to wait till you're settled in your new home and then you will be able to concentrate fully on what the problem might be. On the other hand, this makes really good and enjoyable video content.

Awesome video!! Makes me want to tune mines up!!

Mike..you make me laugh as you do most of things that I do. The struggle and strife says I don't plan enough.

Great job! Boy those plugs were Gunky! Looks like you have a ton of suggestions here in the comments though! Great video!

This one has a mind of its own too Those plugs had been in there a loooong time

going to look at a 1985 500 sec 126k tomorrow this video will be helpful thanks Mike

Your sound effects are great! Love your vids! Hey, did you have to move to live closer tro Tulsa? If so, I hope it was a smooth move. Cheers!

As one who worked on cars back when this one was made, and many years before, I would check the timing first, vacuum hoses second, and injectors third. All three of these could cause the hesitation/stalling.

Miiiiiiike!!!! We missed you!!!

Enjoyed the Vid, I have an R107 with an M117 V8 and would make the following suggestions: 1. Don’t run it so low on fuel, they don’t like it, especially if you’ve not checked the fuel filter, do so, it’s probably clogged. 2. I suspect the problem lies within the fuel distributor, particularly if the car has been inactive for 6 months or more, stale fuel will have gummed it up, hence it clears when you fully open the throttle. 3. Quick fix? - new / reconditioned fuel distributor and 8 new injectors. (About £3k or $3400ish. You’ve got to love these old Mercs - for those heart stopping moments of realisation 🤣🤣🤣

Don't forget cap, rotor, wires, check timing too.

Hope your move went well!

I'm still working on a hesitation in mine. Comes in when it's warm although sometimes earlier and some days not all. I'm thinking a fuel delivery issue. Runs better if it's rich but then not good for the plugs or engine.

Need some valve stem seal replacement , or you have a loose valve guide . Just looking at the oil filled plug .

Sounds great Mike . Low windshield wash could be the problem . w126 Mercedes thinks it is a BMW .

Wow nice and smooth! Did you have to set the gaps in the new plugs?

Mike oil up the gas pedal joints to mixture chamber, and clean air mixture top which is not clean (it moves up and down when gas pedal is pressed) .

Hi Can you load a clips how to replace the 16 seal valves of mercedes 560 sel.thanks

You’re getting there! I recommend a fuel pressure test. Not difficult at all. You can do a simple empirical test by disconnecting the fuel line between the fuel pressure regulator and fuel distributor. Get a container under the end coming from the pressure regulator, turn on ignition (you can try cranking with plugs out. May want an assistant to help you.) Should see good fuel flow. It’s subjective but give you some indication. Flow through that line should be obvious. It’s a high pressure fuel line. Or, if you feel more ambitious, you’ll need a fuel pressure gauge. (An inexpensive one is fine.) and a T-fitting to connect between the fuel pressure regulator and fuel distributor. Try the simple empirical test first. If it’s not obviously very poor flow, then go for a gauge test (T-fitting) with car running. My bet is your fuel flow and pressure is very poor. Just enough pressure to start and run somewhat, but then losing that modest fuel pressure as it begins using fuel, and it takes a nap! That heavy sludge you found a couple videos back at your pumps was just a peek at what’s lurking. You can fix it! Keep in mind the fuel system, from tank to injectors has to be free flowing with acceptable pressure, and clean enough it won’t keep clogging up. You can do this! I don’t recommend pouring in fluid “fuel cleaners” . It can make things worse when there’s evidence of heavy sludge at the tank. Good luck!

Good work Mike! I have a 560SEC myself, an '87 ECE engine, Spark cables on 5 and 6 were swapped on mine as well (by the last owner), is it a sale trick to reduce blow-by or something or just a muddled mechanic? I didn't know until I changed the plugs and then backfiring occurred but it started and drove, I knew it wasn't right so investigated only to find that 5&6 were swapped and then one of the other leads, not sure which one wasn't conducting the spark, so much smoother and better power since!! (I'll throw up a video I took a few weeks ago, on my youtube account booting 75-100 MPH) The oil on injector 3, I'd guess is the PCV valve tube left off at some point, On the underside of the air filter housing there is a spout that the PCV pipe sits into to. .... quick question, do you have a PCV valve in the pipe coming from the engine cover?... I ask because mine doesn't Next job for me is to cure a lifter, tap tap tap.....tap tap. AGH

On a UK car I'd be looking at fuelling and timing first as the cause of the hesitation. On a US car I would imagine that the fuelling is computer-controlled due to the presence of the catalyst, so that's probably not adjustable, however the fuel injectors might be a bit sticky after the cars period of idleness so the car could be slightly starving for fuel when you first rev it up. I'd try sticking a few cans of fuel system cleaner through it and see if that helps any. The ignition timing should be pretty straightforward, though it might be worth having a good look at the components of the electronic ignition system as there might be some corroded connectors that are also adding to the issue, or maybe a module that is starting to break down so that when it warms up it fails out and cuts the spark, hence causing the random stalling...

way to go Sparky, If you cleaned up those parts before you put them back on, such as the air cleaner cover, it would save you time in the long run.

Get the Venturi open on the throttle body and give the internals a good spray clean with carb cleaner. Wouldn't hurt to run new vacuum lines as well, the OE ones are over 20 years old and almost certainly perished.

Kinda new to this KZfaq thing so not sure how else to get a message to you. I’ve commented before and just wanted to say, I hope you are doing well in Tulsa and getting settled in. I desperately miss your videos but I know you have a lot going on. Again, wishing you all the best!

Hey Mike have you relocated and started your new job yet? Keep up the great videos I look forward to them.

Mine did the same thing! Did you ever figure it out? I have a 1986 560sl. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have same SEC from Copart , and I spent very much time to get it to live, but the engine still is not smooth. The spark plugs in 4 and 7 cilinder are black, but without oil mass dirty. I changed pumps, filter, fuel injectors, ignition distributor cap with rotor, spark plugs, and nothing is better. please continue your videos about 126. I am very interested in such problem.

Where you get spark plugs with treads?

Mike what’s up just let us know! What the heck! The new what ever?? Just post what ever!!!!

Hi Mike my 10 cents worth I’d check the following The quality of the spark with a new plug placed on metal on the engine but away from fuel and being electronic ignition don’t touch ( peace of mind) Another thing I found years ago run the engine at night no lights at all if possible lift the bonnet and look to see if there’s any sparks jumping amazing what I’ve found over years doing that Fuel system may be your problem too I know you’ve replaced pumps and filters but it’s along way from the tank to the engine I’d pull it all apart and flush it entirely as there could still be gunk in there Injectors could be blocking/ blocked I had this on a 4 cylinder engine ran like absolute crap ( all caused by ethanol based fuel not suitable for my car “previous owner “) I’d say this car sat for along time Mate you’ll get there

MIKE - I posted this before go to Harbor Freight and get the fuel pressure tester kit that has the correct fitting for this fuel distributor. Also, the later fuel distributors have an EHA valve (it's the black unit on the back of the drivers side) which are notorious for leaking. Also, you move the camera around really quickly but I can already see your distribution lines (the rubber hoses that connect each of the fuel injectors) are cracked at the end. So most likely you're going to need to get a smoke machine and start testing for leaks. In addition - the cats in this car are most likely going bad and clogging up Finally - read up on adjusting the fuel mixture at idle. You need a 3mm allen wrench that goes into the tower on the top of the distributor and may have been futzed with by the previous owner, so you may be running a bit lean.

Fuel distributor or injector(s)?????? With the car running, you can crack open each line to the injectors & see if there is a difference! The fuel distributors are known to be problems for cars that have set up for long periods.

Good video! Were the electrodes longer on the new plugs? Good catch that the injector seal needs attention. Now the important comment. Did you move your duck?

Mike, you have a lot of good suggestions in the comments. Seems your were a little off point with the new spark plugs - there are a lot of other probabilities to check now. This should be fun, weeks or months of videos! Yay! 👍

Well Mike I'm afraid you have more than one thing going on here first of all its not firing on all 8 cylinders at the very least the. #3 plug I think it was I don't think is firing at all but anyway check all cylinders and make sure you have spark as old as it is I would do a complete tune up ya know coils wires the works and then go from there that's what I would do especially because you plan on keeping the car anyway so it needs done anyhow Good luck on the car and the move !!

I had the same problem if you will take out the k filter it is fuel line going to fuel distributor unscrew the line take the filter out get a new if you can if you can’t then clean the old one

Are those resistor plugs? Are they resistor wires?

I wonder if you could run some seafoam in there I seen that one plug was pretty dirty wonder if it would hurt I heard that stuff pretty good I ran in my vehicles made my truck run a little better

What year is your car and model I am going to be doing this this week. New plugs cap and wires

Check fuel filter, pump and injectors. The way it's acting odds are fuel pump and filter. Change the pump might as well do that filter also

resistor or non eisistor... spark plug .... the code and best brand ...greetings from egypt

Saw you on the news looks like your right at home

What size spark plug socket did you use ? Thank you

Mike were are you buddy? Waiting for new videos.

Something old school, I was thinking considering how much carbon was on the plugs have you sprayed the throttle body? Years ago I stopped and helped a lady whose car would not go up the hill. I looked at the carb is so much carbon and muck on it. While the car was running I sprayed cark cleaning into the carb manually controlling the throttle and black smoke poured out of the exhaust. After I cleaned everything as best as I could the car went up the hill no problem. Just a thought that popped into my head..

Mikeey am here

Check the cat muffler it also may be stoped up

I changed my original set of 16 sparkplugs and wire set on my 2004 E500 with 105,000 miles. No real reason to do it except mileage. Car ran well. Put in Bosch Iridium plugs. Absoultely changed the performance and gas mileage. Car runs like new. I thought it was running well, but was I wrong. More power and higher gas mileage. What else could one ask for for relatively little money.

We need some Monkey Wrench Mike! Where you at?

Sounds like your catalytic converter(s) are clogged. Disconnect the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter to test.

Hey everybody. Don't forget to share on FB, Twitter etc.

That vacuum guage should be all the way to the left when idling

Belieave me clean your fuel tank;fuel injectors;fuel destrebuter i have the same car and this was my problem

Could be old gas in it and throttle body needing cleaned

A lot of that looks like gum from bad fuel. Some look like oil burning.

Ready and waiting for another video Mike?

Bad mass air flow sensor or pcm

I think its chock full of carbon. Carb cleaner in the cylinders should take care of that.

Map sensor or catalytic converter is pluged

Timing needs to be checked

Where are you Mike

Check your fuel filter of pump

Clean the throttle body , I believe it's sticky

Carbon deposits on plugs suggest rich condition. White deposits on plugs suggests lean condition. I still think your bog issues are fuel related. Uneven fuel distribution (check supply pressure) , leaky injectors, dirty throttle body, Roy Davis comment also very important.

you have a serious vacuume leak, I can tell from the gaudge for the fuel economy

Check TPS

When I took out my distributor I forgot to mark it. When I put it in I was 180 degrees of. Lol.

Accumulator/fuel pump

What can you say you got Satan's father you're sitting in LOL

That mechanical fuel injection. smdh

Converter

6 likes? 0 view's????? KZfaq IS BROKEN

Ya better get to fixing things right.. That TV gig won't last long at your age. LOL Ol Randy can help you out with car repairs.. LOL Just kidding.

Before I watch this video. I am going to guess will not fix the car !

Ngk are for Japanese cars not for German

I suspect you've got a leaking cam cover gasket above cylinder 3 on the right-hand side. The mess all over that injector looks like oil and grime that have mixed together, and what's on the spark plug also looks like oil contamination. Hot engine oil can easily run down through the threads of the spark plug even if it's torqued up correctly and that oil burning in the cylinder along with the fuel/air mixture can easily raise the combustion temperature enough to burn away spark plug electrodes. You knew you already had an oil leak from that side of the engine from the smoke when you first started it, so I would say the two issues are linked. Life is so much easier with these older cars when you're just fighting mechanical gremlins and not Machiavellian and sometimes insane computers...

Water in your fuel

The engine is dead. Oil on the spark plugs and such amount, it is piston rings. Do a compression test.

dude yoyre so fcuking gay its FABU LOUS, hope you and your husband are good