Thank you for your kind words! I wish you good luck! There's plenty of good ones out there!

You're welcome!

That's good. I also have a thermometer on the supply chase and amp/volt monitor on the power.

If you add a mister, you will get mineral deposits on the coil and lower its efficiency, unless you use distilled water.

@@davidm7824 Thanks. Our water is fairly soft but now that you gave me that great tip will never want to take a chance. Our water & sewer bill went sky high over the years. 45 years ago I was only paying think it was $50 twice a year now it's $85 a month for two old retired farts that really don't use that much water.

+Chris Brown that’s awesome! Have you physically noticed a difference in the air quality? Or just happy overall knowing the air is filtered better?

Are you familiar with zener diodes and voltage clamping?

Same here. Saw the video and got a better brand with a higher merv.

Static pressure being higher doesn't make your house cool better. It slows the air down. If you had too much airflow to begin with, then this will improve dehumidification which makes it feel colder even though the unit is still maintaining the same temperature in the space.

High static pressure means you will soon be replacing your blower motor.

@@fitybux4664 just rewatched the project farm video. The filtrete 1900 has low static pressure and maintains it even after filtering many particles and does an amazing job filtering the particles at the same time.

Did you use a SquareD whole house?

Thanks pal. Which one is not moral?

@@NewHVACGuide none that you’ve mentioned. I am not personally premeditating sales pitches in general. And when customers mention Uv lighting I tend to pitch the RGF REME Halo LED or the I-wave in-duct devices. A bit more expensive (twice the price). However those components (as other similar devices) provide whole house purification. So when I do deter from the reasoning I’ve been invited into their home (service calls) I feel morally responsible to be honest. But, if a light is what they want, who am I to wish otherwise. Nothing wrong with them

Gotcha. I’m the same way. I think UV lights are the bare minimum but there are certainly better things out there

@@NewHVACGuide what sort of proof is there that this thing works? I’m not being a smart add I’m actually scheduled to have the halo LED this coming Monday. Just having a hard time buying into it and considering cancelling service.

Wow that’s impressive!

@@NewHVACGuide Thanks man! I'm happy. Virginia power lent me a set of manuals which I digested, I believe it was "H" which was most instrumental to proper sizing of units and ducts to keep air velocity under 400'/min, stuff like that. I have all four stories on one system and temps are very consistent. I'm an engineer (VT) and previously a mechanic so I can design and implement. I've worked as a control box engineer for industrial chillers but that was later after I built. Which I also did my own plumbing, electrical, framing, finishing, etc and designed the whole structure from my imagination. Not something I will repeat but it was great! The local building office worked admirably with me. We're in agricultural territory so I feel that helped a lot to allow my autonomy. Cheers Josh, God bless you!

Not knocking you, but the UV bulb does virtually nothing to stuff in the air flying by it, there just isn't enough exposure time. I also would not recommend anyone ever use WD40, or any petroleum product on an air filter due to the VOCs that it releases into the air stream.

@@markbeiser Thanks for your input. And not to knock you for offering your educated, experienced, and well informed opinion on something you haven't seen nor have details of, but, resisting further sarcasm, suffice it to say it's worked quite well for thirty years. Ducts are clean, we've all been blessed with great health, and we're comfortable. The proof is in the pudding, as an old saying goes. Concentration of VOCs from spritzing air filters with WD 40 before bringing them in to filter return air at the registers is of no concern to me. I get why you might be concerned yourself knowing only they may be present and have fear of the unknown. I never "recommend" anyone outside my family to do anything I do. I'm an advocate of personal responsibility. I make my choices and you make yours. If you want to study science and engineering, research, experiment, and measure things then we can talk and you may influence me on related matters. If you want to paint pictures, make music, write and/or talk to people as your life's calling, be a driver, a tradesman, utility worker... If you didn't study science and its application then don't be surprised when I dismiss your technical concerns as ill informed. Doesn't mean you're wrong with your guesses, necessarily, just that you have no basis for your claims.

@@elgringoec You're right, nearly 30 years of experience performance testing HVAC systems, building diagnostics, and solving IAQ problems, maintaining certifications, and keeping up with the relevant research gives me no basis for having an opinion on the subject, all just pure guesswork. Carry on.

Wow! That’s a good testimonial

Would you buy it again and would you care to tell me roughly what something like this cost? TIA

Same here, love my AprilAire Dehumidifier and humidifier, and the Goodman HVAC, no issues here, and if there are... Parts are pretty much universal and readily available. With regular maintanece, I see this unit lasting many many years. And it did not cost an arm and a leg.

I put an Aprilaire 5000 in my own system, works great, just remember to clean the control electrode(expanded metal looking thing before the filter) and the ionizing wires a couple of times a year, and you will continue to enjoy many more years of a clean system, and near HEPA levels of virus size particle removal. When sealed correctly so there is no air leakage between the filter cabinet and air handler/furnace, even the non electronic Aprilaire filters will keep the unit looking virtually new inside for the life of the equipment.

A good friend would not put junk in your house like a Goodman that's not a good friend

+JC Forward haha. There might be someone better out there but I’m not aware of them if there is. Aprilaire is definitely the best at doing certain things.

Thank you so much!

Did you do that yourself? I'm very interested in reducing humidity. It's basically soup in Alabama for at least 4 months.

Turning on “every few hours?” And it in the 90s outside with your register at 72? Gimme a break. Lol

@@jak30341 Yep, not buying that. Total BS.

@@billycox475 Yep, pretty simple install. Tin snips, a collar and the 10" flex line. Took maybe half an hour? I did have to run a new electrical circuit, no plug in the area, so that took around two hours to run and install conduit, box and plug.

@@jak30341 Whatever, just telling you my experience. You don't like it, file a complaint with someone who gives a shit.

Better approach IMO is to add a reducer soft start.

yeah, most don't. I usually buy 2 and when everytime I use the second, order two more.

Amazon has them and buy multiple units for discount shipped to you. I as a contractor have used Aprille Air since the early nineties

buy a new one can try to flush but their cheap.

It’s MERV, minimum efficiency reporting value

If properly sized and setup, you can run a MERV 13, that’s what I’ve been doing for years.

​@@woohunter1well if you want to reduce the life of your equipment, specifically the blower motor, heat exchanger and compressor, go right ahead. Get an electronic filter rated at 13-16 merv that allows 7-8 merv airflow if you really need better filtration. If it's for allergies/air quality, get a UV light. Better options out there than the "furnace killers".

@@Gus11445 that’s what my HVAC guy put in when he installed it 11 years ago, been running great ever since, I do change out my filters 4 times a year, the beginning of every season.

@@woohunter1 if you have good sized main trunks it's not as much an issue but many houses ducts are undersized. You do still reduce efficiency overall, stress the blower motor more, heat exchanger will get hotter and more temp stressed, evaporator has a higher chance of freezing/ liquid getting to compressor slugging the compressor. 11 years is still a mid aged system and you may not notice anything other than "it runs well". The difference in getting 15-20 years on a furnace vs 20-30. If you aren't getting annual heat exchanger checks and the whole system checked you may not even know.

Get a pro to look at it for options. Perhaps an ERV could be an option?

I had an exprecience recently with some contractor when I was shopping around for a new system quote me around $9500. I told him that I could go online and purchase a new 3.5 ton package heat pump, have it shipped to me with the freight charges and it wouln't even be half of his quote. When I asked him why so high, he said things like as of Jan 1 the DOE won't allow the sale of anything less than an 18 SEER 2, two stage systems (total BS, the new minimum requirements for my area are 15 SEER 2 and single stage is fine). He also said it needed a pad under the unit (more BS, my unit sits on a raised masonry platform that's 30 inches above grade, I don't live in a flood zone, why would it need a pad? Every unit before for the last 38 years sat on this platform w/o any issues.). The next thing he said was the wiring was inadequate and I needed a new cutoff (more total BS, the code only calls for #6 wires and a 60 amp breaker, I have an 80 amp breaker with #4 going from the main panel to the cut off panel next to the unit mainly because of the nealry 50 ft run, the cut off panel has a 40 amp breaker feeding the contactor, and a 45 amp breaker feeding the 10 KW strips). Last thing he said it needed was that the DOE regulations requires a smart thermostat, he tried to include an Ecobee. I told him that the Castaways had a hit back in the 60's called "Liar, Liar". I did actually find an honest contractor that didn't try an upsell anything I didn't actually need or that wasn't required, the final bill was around $5k.

@@fldave612 that’s why I will never make it in the business I don’t up sale and crook people. I price plan Jane stuff and warn people if they have buy parts out of warranty on a variable speed high end unit. Now honestly you can get equipment off line cheaper than what I can pay for it at a local supply house. But here is the problem you run in to with off line equipment is that no supply house that will cover the warranty. Take your 5k add in labor, permits, gas, federal, state and local taxes. That’s not a bad price to have someone else do it if they provide good service after the sale. Never heard the smart thermostat one lol, the programmable one is required. I don’t even recommend running a set back program because your not just cooling or heating air. You have to recondition all the thermal mass in your home.

@@fldave612 What brand of heat pump did you go with? We’ve received several quotes to replace our 20 year old 3.5 ton 12 Seer rooftop package heat pump and the lowest being 6.7k. I thought about buying the heat pump and looking for a licensed HVAC tech to install it but that may be easier said than done.

My neighbor just had a new outdoor unit installed last year. Flooding is not a issue but they still sold her a plastic pad that was just put on top of the perfectly good concrete pad that she already had.

@@900stx7 yea a lot of the cheap stuff they dangle in front of you as free to get the sale. I do prefer the plastic vs a concrete pad on a heat pump because of the defrost cycle in the winter. I will remove the old pad if possible.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l6p-mrSpt-CchnU.htmlfeature=shared

“Uv light shining on the coil”

So how does air purify flowing briefly over the coil. The coil might look good but the air flow is no better before the coil than after the coil. Are you specifying a cool AC system rather than heat, because I think your going to have problems putting it in with high heat coils. I guess you also have a problem with uv water disinfectant in homes for that same reason. If you say the water is confined closer to the uv that than answer that can be applied to air, by adding more tubes away from the heat source.

@@Now_lets_get_this_straight It doesn’t purify the air at all. The UV light kills the microbes that stick to the coil and prevent growth on the coil itself. While it doesn’t purify the air it can indirectly lead to cleaner air because any mold that did grow on the coils would be emitting spores so it mainly works as a preventative. As for the water UV systems, I don’t know much about them but the same principal applies. If you don’t have enough contact time then it won’t have any significant effect.

@@kevinsiggins623 yes I realize it doesn’t purify, just kills odor (microbial life) as you said, if source is removed. Which is why I always change my filter (& turn on) when I ozone my entire house. Which is why I wouldn’t use light for air systems unless I change the filter twice a year, and run it long enough to the change entire air once using multiple lights. I am setting up an old fish tank for use on using uv light for disinfecting my kitchen glassware after washing. UV light doesn’t go thru regular glass, just quartz, so it’s safe. Being I’m the only one in my house, I’ll use ozone for 15 minutes in my bathroom after cleaning. I invested in uv because I get enough use from my kids (they all have pets) justifying the $1K cost. I use commercial uv units for the larger living areas and uv lights for bedrooms and bathrooms.

@@Now_lets_get_this_straight mold growth on your coils can cause more issues than just odor, especially if you’re allergic. As you said though, it’s not necessary if you keep your coils clean but my original point is that unlike the flow through systems that claim to purify the air, the ones that shine on the coils actually work for their intended purpose. From the sound of it you’re using it primarily to disinfect surfaces. UV can absolutely do that effectively assuming your system has enough intensity and you’re giving it enough contact time.

@@kevinsiggins623 if you got mold problem in your air system, then you probably got it other places to. Probably have a humidity problem, as that might need a dehumidifier rather than UV. With the push in England to insulate the old brick houses and getting a tight seal on areas not fully insulated, they are having a terrible time with mold and now have to address that problem as well with dehumidifiers.

Ionizers are intended to reduce particulate below PM2.5 UVC is intended for biological growth (mold, mildew, viruses and bacterias). They both have intended purposes and when I hear people say "I believe in one and not the other" it shows me a lack of understanding of the fundamentals behind each technology.

As hvac tech. I totally agree with you. It's a gimmick.

2¢

Are you referring to things like the Remy systems? And maybe you can answer my question regarding the whole house humidifier. It gets very dry in the winter and I'm forced to rely on the portable ones bc my HVAC guy believes that whole house humidifiers cause havoc inside the HVAC system bc the condensation build up of water eventually drops back down into the unit effectively destroying it. I'll take your 2 cents ☺️

Contractors sell ionizers to win a yeti cooler. Installing them only benefits the contractors pocket and can harm the customer.