Which version do you consider the best option as a key light using a lantern softbox for interviews? thanks in advance!

@@katherinemartinez7768 This new version is definitely an upgrade over the original, and bi-color is better than single color if you plan to mix your LED with any other light sources, so I'd get the SL60II or SL60IIBi over the older lights.

@@NewLayer thanks so much so Kind of u!

Nice, thanks for the support! Hope it works well for you :)

Thanks for watching, commenting, and caring!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support.

Nice! Killer deal, thanks for the support :)

I haven't tested it personally, but the Mark III has mobile app control, and I've heard they refined the internal components, but as far as I know, that's really it.

Glad it was helpful!

I have videos on both of them, so you'll have to watch and decide for yourself :) Brightness and color accuracy they're comparable. The big difference is that the GVM light has native NP-F battery support.

I highly recommend the Glow collapsible beauty dishes. They are about half the depth of a parabolic softbox, so take up less room, and are lighter weight. They also come not only with diffusion layers, but a grid, to control light spill, which you mentioned. They come in three sizes, 34" is kind of standard, but the 25" also works very well if you want to stay as cheap and compact as possible. geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver Hope that helps!

Thanks! @@NewLayer

Thank you!

This light is powered only by wall power (or a portable power station), so you need the cable, it has no battery support. Look at my Godox ML60II Bi for a battery friendly option.

If you have a main key light and softbox already, I would probably go for an RGB tube light. You can use it for a ton of different stuff like backlighting, accent lighting, or stuff like waving it over things for product videos, etc. I currently use the Amaran PT2c and PT4c: geni.us/amaranpt2c

@@NewLayer thanks. Why choose the amaran over the godox tl30 or 60? Do you have a comparison video?

Thanks! I much prefer collapsible beauty dishes to parabolic softboxes, because they are not as deep, and if you use diffusion on the front like 99% of people do, the light output is exactly the same, but with the smaller footprint. These from Glow are some of my favorites: geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver

Normally I recommend circular softboxes/beauty dishes, but in your case, I think a rectangular one will work best. If there's any reflections in your work, it will look better, and it will kind of simulate window light, which looks good for things like top down shots or book covers etc. 60 watts should be fine. You'll likely be shooting at 100% brightness with the softbox just a few feet away, but I don't foresee a problem. This light would work great, but there's a couple other options to consider: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aLaSlbthrd6thKM.html - As inexpensive as lights come, but very good output quality, and has battery support kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pbmdl6Z40rvWgWw.html - Another option with battery support, as well as mobile app control Aputure always makes good stuff, so here's a 2'x3' softbox of theirs: amzn.to/49DrmE1 Glow has good stuff, and makes a LOT of different sizes, here's a 3' x 4' of theirs: amzn.to/3G153KV Hope that helps.

@@NewLayer immensely helpful. Thanks so much. Quick question: for what I describe is a 3x4' softbox overkill for a 60W lamp? Or does it matter? I noticed that Aputure doesn't make a softbox that large; their largest rectangular softbox (that you link to above) is 60x90 (why don't they make a larger one?). I guess I'm fishing for a rule or ratio between watts and softbox dimensions. Thanks for helping me navigate the rabbit hole!

It's for remote/mobile app control. You can set lights to have the same channel/group and control multiple lights simultaneously.

Yes, for small scenes indoors, this is a good key light.

Thanks! That softbox is a Bowens mount, so it'll attach directly to this light no problem. The umbrella mount I mention is just a little hole with a screw to use umbrellas for diffusion. They are just a literal umbrella with a rod that you slide in and screw down so they don't slide out. The vast majority of people use softboxes like the one you mentioned, but some people like umbrellas still. Hope that helps! If you pick one up, I'd be grateful if you used my links if possible :) geni.us/godoxsl60iibi geni.us/godoxqrp90

@@NewLayer Legend, cheers!!

When I tested mine, it always starts up with the default settings of 1% brightness and 4400K CCT. The only real option I see would be to keep them powered on, and using the app, add the lights to a single group that you can toggle on/off without changing the settings.

The SL100Bi will be very minimally brighter, like 1/3 of a stop. I'd go up to a 150 watt light if you're needing more brightness than 60 watts.

This light does come with the reflector shown in the video at 4:20.

Thanks! I personally usually like Godox better because the build quality is superior, but GVM is typically the cheapest, and they also go on sale more to be even cheaper, so they are still a great budget option. The quality of light that GVM lights output on average is just as good too.

No, this light only uses a standard power cable with a C13 connector on the side that goes into the light.

They are pretty different lights, but in terms of brightness, the x100 is around 1/2 stop brighter. You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+SL60IIBI&light2=Zhiyun+Molus+X100 And here's my full review on the X100 and G60 if you haven't seen it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rrNzgpiQstavqac.html Hope that helps!

I don't know what this means exactly, but I'll take it as a compliment, haha.

I finally have the Colbor CL60 to test! I'll do a full video ASAP.

Yes, you can. If you want hard-shadowed light like the sun, you would just use the reflector it comes with. You can change the color of the light if you get the bi-color version, and/or you could just get the daylight version and adjust the white balance on your camera, which would have the same effect. For example, the daylight version is 5600K, but if you set your camera white balance to something like 6500K, the light would look warmer, or with the camera set to 4000K, the light would look cooler/bluer. Hope that helps!

@@NewLayer Thank you so much ♥️☺️

Going from flash to continuous lights is definitely a change for the output reason you mentioned. Even low power flashes can let you shoot at something like ISO 100, f/11, 1/200 or something. A 60 watt continuous light like this with a softbox would put you closer to something like ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/50 shooting a talking head setup from 3-4 feet. For stop motion, it could work, assuming it's smaller stuff, the light can be closer, and you're OK with longer shutter speeds on a tripod. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get ISO 100, f/8, 1/15 or so in your scenario. With continuous LEDs, every time the wattage doubles, you essentially get 1 full stop more brightness. So even a 300 watt continuous light would be 2 stops more light than this one. Long story short, you could start with this and see if it's bright enough, and if not, use it as a back light or something. I hope that helps!

@@NewLayer Perfect, thank you for such a well thought out and detailed response. Much appreciated.

I have 2 SL60II and love them. At 100% power with an octabox you can get a good amount of light. If you need fast shutter speed than 1/50 or Lower ISO than 400, or even longer distance to subject than 2-3m, go for a 150W LED. If you want a regular youtube portrait framing like NewLayer at 1:35, as a key light at about 1m50 50%-100% power you'll get way enough light for any modern cameras. It's also pefect for table-top product photos or stop motion. Don't forget regular film stock for movies like Vision 3 are 500T for 1/48 to help lighting on the scene without frying the actors :) As of 13 oct 2023, they are 109$ with the link above at BH, it's insane :) Good luck!

@@DynamicRockers Very good info here! And yes, if you've every tried to film a video at "photo" settings, like ISO 100, f/8, 1/200, it's so bright you can't even open your eyes, hahaha. There's a reason continuous lights are as bright as they are.

@@daleelliott7390 To give you a comparison about the amount of light you get from a Godox, I have a tungsten 4 bulbs (100W each) cinema fixture next to it and the output is comparable.

There's no one answer for that. I have a lot of mic reviews on my channel as a starting point. Lots of different types of mics for different purposes.

Yes, although a lot of product photographers use strobes because they are MUCH brighter than continuous lights. A big benefit of continuous lights is that you can see exactly what you'll get in real time, unlike strobes (except bigger strobes that include continuous modeling lamps). With a 60 watt continuous light, you'll like end up shooting at higher ISOs, lower shutter speeds, and/or wider apertures. I often find myself shooting photos for my reviews and social media content around 1/50 second, ISO 400-800, and f/5.6 or so. So if you want to be able to shoot at ISO 100, 1/250 shutter speed, and f/11, you'll definitely want to go the strobe route, or alternatively, you'd need a 300-600 watt continuous light to get closer to that brightness, which are much more expensive. Hope that helps!

@@NewLayer it does!! 300-600ws are EXPENSIVE!!! Whew! Lol 😂 I think I’ll start at 200ws and see what I can get away with!!

@@AllNyteLova Make sure you don't confuse "ws" with "watts"! "Ws" is "watt-seconds", which is how flashes/strobes are measured. Watts is how continuous lights are measured, and they are not equal. A 100Ws strobe will be much brighter than a 300 watt continuous light. It's been a while since I used strobes, but I had some 160Ws flashes and used them a LOT on 1/16 or 1/8 power with softboxes and shot around 1/160 second, ISO 100, and f/11 or so if I recall correctly. So they have lots of power. But, I do think 200Ws is a great place to start, while also giving you room to play if you need to.

The original SL60W was daylight only (around 5600K) and came it at 2460 lux, while the SL60II Bi-Color set to 5600K is 300 lux brighter at 2760 lux. You can see in the video, at 3200K, the brightness is 2300 lux, so technically dimmer on the tungsten end, but again, the original SL60W was not a bi-color light. And, the difference between 2300 lux and 2760 lux is not even 1/3 of a stop, so while there is technically a difference, in practical use, the brightness difference is negligible. It's just interesting/cool that it's brighter WHILE also being bi-color, if that makes sense :)

@@NewLayer 😲. That's a good step up then. Usually half the bulbs are 3.2k and half 5.6k. I also Just got a 120w Ynlux pro that keeps brightness steady. Must be new tech.

@@enricoparenti3057 Some companies take that more seriously than others for sure. And the older bi-color lights had much bigger differences, like you mentioned!

As far as light color and brightness, they are identical, but, they are very different lights. I did a full review on the ML60 here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fa6ZgNSLntXNgYE.html The ML60 is much smaller, doesn't have a native Bowens mount, has battery capabilities with the battery handle... but it's also ~$100 more, so it just depends if those things are worth it to you. If you don't need a super portable light with battery capability, I would just go with the SL60II Bi.

I would love to if I can get ahold of one. It's not super clear what the differences are from the original VL series just from looking. Do you know if there's been any big changes?

I’m actually not sure that’s why I was wondering if you were gonna get your hands on it 😂 So what do you think- what’s the new king in the 150/300 strength?

@@christopherduran9926 That question is so hard to answer nowadays because there are so many good options. Aputure/Amaran, Nanlite, and Godox are the big three, and my main recommendation would be to stick with 1 brand. So if you already have other lights from them, I would stay within that ecosystem. Other than that, it mostly depends on what features are most important to you (native battery support, RGB color, etc.) I'm happy to give recommendations if you can narrow it down a bit to the features that are most important to you :)

Thank you! but you’ve already helped me man, we have 2 VL 150s and a VL200 and the 4 kit TL60s, plus a Godox M1/ Aputure MC so we’re definitely set for now (until a VL craps out which I’m really hoping never happens) Only thing might be trying to get an M600D in the future In hindsight, we maybe should have gone Nanlite or Aputure, but Godox felt like the best bang/buck at the time in our budget

@@christopherduran9926 Nice! That sounds like a bunch of good lights. There's really nothing you can't do with your Godox lights Vs. the other brands' equivalents, so no need to have any regrets :)