I do a lot of nature videos (as a hobby, definitely not pro) and just picked up this camera today. I had been already watching your videos because this camera peaked my interest specifically because of the zoom. I just wanted to thank you for these videos. They have been really helpful. Great work!

This is the best camera I’ve ever used. I don’t need to upgrade. Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. ❤❤❤

This is unvaluable knowlege for this camera's users💯

Nicely explained about the focus mode 👏🏽

Clear Concise and (sufficiently) Comprehensive. Chalkie?

Here are my findings with the Nikon P1000 camera. I use this camera for search and rescue as well as recovery activities at 1 to 1.5 mile distances: 1) Use a heavy duty tripod. Set the tripod low with you sitting in a chair. Sitting in a chair will be better than standing, you need all the stability you can get. Wind speeds over 15mph are not going to help, and being low to the ground will help reduce the effects of wind speeds, or camera jitter. Such distances will take time to record, and sitting is going to make the experience more comfortable. This will allow lower shutter speeds resulting in lower ISO levels, reducing grain, allowing higher shutter speeds that will make the image sharp when heat waves are present. 2) Don't take photos, take videos. The knowledge of astronomical video is needed to understand why video works better than photographs. 3) At 1 mile (or greater) distances, you are going to have heat waves to deal with. This will occur at all times, and must be managed. Heat waves are what astronomical photographers must manage, it is a part of what they deal with always. 4) Moving through your video frame by frame, watching the undulations of the heat waves is going to help you find what parts are sharp, and what parts are out of focus. Image stacking will be needed if you wish to make an entire image in focus, but if you are just trying to identify objects at a mile, like fingers on a hand (human remains?) you will be fine. 5) Start the video and then adjust focus with the manual ring. The auto focus doesn't work at 1 mile or more. 6) If you need to zoom in to 5,000 times, switch the video (in your software) to green grayscale, and you will be amazed by how much detail you can see in the image. Green grayscale seems to cut through some type of diffusion happing in the blues & reds, it may be the wavelength of green that results in a sharper green grayscale. 7) The heatwaves need to be stopped, and in order to do this you will need to increase the shutter speed to 500+, the higher you go, the more the ISO will need to be increased. There comes a point when the ISO brings in so much grain that the clarity (not focus) is better at a lower ISO, but it depends on the object size you are trying to capture at 1 mile. Do you need to identify fingers? This is possible. 800 ISO with a shutter speed of 650 can achieve amazing results at a mile. 8) Set all vivid/custom adjustments as far as they will go: sharpness all the way up, contrast all the way up, intensity all the way up.

Really great breakdown, thanks so much for this. I would however suggest that when going over menus, and menu options, talk through how to get to various settings. Found myself fiddling around with the camera to find what menu you were covering at times. Thanks again!

Great Job! Thanks.

A very focused review….thanks

This is the best🎉

great stuff

I found this video interesting. I used to own a Nikon P900 and I'm glad and found it a useful camera with very good optical performance. Only one thing I found aggravating for nesting bird photography (going off autofocus target here) were the motor drive settings. As I recall, there was low (and too slow) 2fps and high (as I recall 10fps locked focus) with a 3-5 second blackout period (unacceptable). My Canon SX60hs had a far more useful 3'ish fps continuous focus with 10fps (jpegs) locked focus and a very deep buffer. No reviewer I've seen has covered the motor drive settings in the P950. Could you fill us in?

so what focus mode is applicable to video mode? i always leave it on manual wide. btw i love your videos, and sense of humor lol! Youre one of my favorite dummies, i mean reviewers on youtube lol! id be so happy to spot you at central park someday while out with my camera lol!

Your vids are really good!!!. A question if I may. I have a Canon vixia hf g70 camcorder for videoing my kids doing ski races. It's great, but sadly the 20X zoom is inadequate for most of the races where I need to zoom in all the way to the top of the race course. I'm keen to buy the Nikon 950, do you think the auto focus will be adequate to keep the ski racer in focus coming down the course? I suspect I would be using the zoom to perhaps 60 or 70X. In ski racing the athlete travels down the hill quickly but the side to side movement is moderate. Thank you very much for your time and effort. Ian.

I saw different videos about nikon superzoom bridge camera. In your opinion, which is the best? 950 or p1000 from Nikon? I know weith, thanks

Is it harder to focus with this camera? I have the p900 thinking of upgrading to this model.

Canon T7

Handy tips i see you got your grandad in the video working as your personal butler ? lol 😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😁😁😁😁

I have a 950 but can't find the auto-focus features for the face that you are showing. I wish you would go through step by step.

Nice video, but I wish the background music was removed. You have great information to share but it’s hard to focus with the music. Probably my problem only, but I thought I’d share.

I don't think Nikon will improve much for future models. It will kill off sales for their higher end cams if this model gets too perfect.

this camera is hugely flawed i wouldnt bother with it just buy a rx10iv from sony it works mile better also image quality miles better than the nikon