Well done, it’s easy to jump straight to the big ticket stuff and load the parts cannon. 🤠

Hi Helen, what a great story. It’s hearing about adventures like this that encourage me to make more videos. My videos are often varied showing whatever I happen to be up to. Fixing mowers and chainsaws are the most popular. I wish mine would break more (not) 🤠 Thanks for subscribing! Dave

Glad you liked it. 🤠 I try not to pretend I know all the answers and show people is ok to use your own brain. It’s obviously going to be a one sided conversation but I try and talk as though you are looking over my shoulder. So much of what I learned through my life was done this way. I just want to pay a bit back 🤠

Glad I could help! Click on like and subscribe, that would be a big help to my channel. 🤠 I’m trying to get to 1000 subscribers but it’s a long way :)

Glad you got something out of it. I just stopped when I figured it out. 🤠 In the end it was not what I was expecting. But that makes the video better I reckon.

Hi Mike, I’ve had that old brief case 40 years at least. They went out of fashion about 35 years ago :) I retired last year so it not likely to be called back into service. If it runs a while and conks out check the three big ones. Air, make sure your air cleaner isn’t blocked. Unlikely but easy to check. Fuel. Make sure your fuel filter isn’t blocked. Spark. I had an old push mower do exactly that. It would run 2 or 3 minutes and stall. Eventually I replaced the magneto and that solved it. Just make sure you check all the easy stuff before you start throwing parts at it. Good Luck

Hi Rich, I’m really glad you got something out of it and you mower is back in service.

Pleased to hear it. I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for letting me know

Your welcome I’ve been thinking of doing the next one in the sequence. Cranks but still no start.

Fantastic, it’s a great feeling when you find the problem and you can fix it yourself with no parts required. Well done and thanks for letting me know.

Same here. 👍

Glad it helped!

It was not the result I was expecting either. You can load test a battery if you have the right tools. If you know a reputable battery supplier they can test it for you. I say reputable because it is very tempting for them to say “Yeah mate it’s buggered”. Well that’s what they say in Australia any way. :) If you have another battery to try that can also prove it for you. Well done sorting it out.

Thanks for the support. I wasn’t expecting the problem to be the battery but you follow the symptoms where ever they go :)

Well you know how to bypass the solenoid now to prove it :) I had a problem with my JD 1640 tractor solenoid years ago. I had a mechanic out and he did an On of on of on off with the starter in rapid succession. This basically blew the corrosion of the contacts. It was only a temporary fix. I’m don’t recall exactly what I did to permanently fix it but I think the contacts were filed clean and it still lives on. I expect there are no serviceable parts on a D110 solenoid but you never know. :) Please flick me a subscribe if you haven’t all ready 🤠 Thanks for commenting!

Hi Mike, I’m really glad you got something out of this video. I remember standing there thinking any reason I shouldn’t do that with the jumper lead? I couldn’t think of one. Was your problem the battery or the solenoid? I live in Australia so I don’t get to New Jersey very often. :) Flick me a like and subscribe if you want to. I’m trying to get to 1000 subs so KZfaq will pay me a few cents but it’s a slow road when you do “How To” videos. There is a Buy Me Coffee link in the description but I don’t push that one.

Good advice, although less than 11v it probably wouldn’t start. I could have made the video after I new the answer but there would be no fun in that 🤠 It’s still going strong although it has blown a head gasket since then. I diagnosed and fixed that but didn’t video it as I have never done one before. Looking back I should have videos it 🤠

@@DavoShed

11v is a very good 1.6 drop is excellent think of your car starter when the drop is > 10 is excellent Cheers check voltage drop for yourself you’ll find out what’s good check VD on both positive and ground if there’s a problem

@@anthonysova7117 I’m not really sure what you mean? Are you talking about the voltage drop while you are cranking the engine. I was always lead to believe this value was pretty meaningless. Anyway my battery had a dead short inside by the time it had a car ride to the battery shop. So it must have been hanging by a thread in there while I was trying to diagnose the problem which is why the volts still looked ok to start with. This turned out to be a good real world problem, so I left all the diagnostic steps in even though they didn’t find the problem. Not much fun running straight to the kill without the thrill of the chase! Thanks for taking an interest in my video

@@DavoShed voltage drop while cranking engine you can’t have VD without current flow or resistance (motor)A shorted battery looks like 10.5 open circuit voltage (at rest =1 cell shorted 2.11 volts+10 .55 =12.6 ) Next time you check a battery keep the DVOM on the terminals check at rest(OCV) then while cranking (VD) By the way 11v at VD is excellent hope this helps Cheers

Well I already had a brand new battery sitting there after the alternator failed on my car. This was the get home battery I had to buy instead of getting towed. They are worth a couple of hundred bucks and if I didn’t use it it would still be sitting there. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I always try and solve these problems with the camera rolling. I think it helps others see the problem solving process.

Thanks :) I try not to solve problems then make a video on how I solved it. I did cut out some of the head scratching. I had a bit of a “now I’m stumped” moment when I forgot to put that solenoid wire back on. Glad you enjoyed watching. Dave

It’s easy to throw parts at them. With a cheap multi metre and some cables you can test that stuff before you buy new ones Glad you found the problem!

Thanks Scotty, I’m retired now but my day job used to be IT. A great trick I learnt that can be applied to most problems in life is the Divide by Two Rule. If you can do a test to rule out half of the potential problems it must be in the other half. Then divide by two again if you can. Then go one at a time. Glad this video helped you and your friend even though my problem was something else.

@@DavoShed Best math lesson. Divide.. 🍻🚬

Thanks for the compliment! Before you buy a new battery take the old battery with you to the battery shop and have them load test it for you. It’s a very simple test if you have the right equipment. They should not charge you anything if the battery is ok. Keep in mind their goal is to sell you a battery :)

I have been tricked by that before. My 60 horse (1982 model) JD tractor used to crank real slow. In the finish I removed all the ground straps and starter cable contacts and cleaned everything. Nothing looked that bad but a little bit of corrosion on everything was the problem. I was about to take the starter off to the shop again. Glad I didn’t! I had an even stranger problem with my Diesel Toyota Landcruiser. Same cause. 25 year old earth strap that had never been touched. Used to stall intermittently at highway speed if the headlights were on. Tough one to diagnose. Someone on a chat group told me to clean it. I thought yeah yeah but he nailed it. I reckon before changing any parts clean all those contacts anyway. Thanks for commenting. Dave

Thanks, glad you got something out of it and for letting me know!

That’s a good idea. I used to have a solar trickle charger on my mower in the winter but I suspect it may have overcharged it. Not sure. This time a cell in the battery had collapsed. It’s not the first time either. I think the vibration is really hard on batteries. Thanks for commenting!

That’s great. Now you also know which part to replace🤠

I’ll take that as a compliment 🤠

Definitely a compliment. I was able to fix my mower thanks or this video! Great content

Really glad it helped!

I’ll have to break it again so I can make another one. 🤠 Glad you got something out of it!

Correct. It had hardly any amps. I took it to a battery specialist shop to give it a load test keeping in mind I know they sell batteries but by the time I travelled the 15km into town the voltage was only 10v or something like that. There was clearly a short or something stuffed inside the battery and the car ride into town made it worse. I hear that the vibration of mowers is hard on batteries and the charging system isn’t that great in the first place. Notably the replacement battery is still going great. I guess the take home is that the voltage reading isn’t fool proof. Keep an open mind.

Good question I already had this battery after rescuing my wife when her car alternator failed. I had the alternator replaced and put the original battery back in her car. Not that long after we sold the car. That left me with this brand new battery. Not much of a market for second hand batteries 🤠 so this turned out to be a perfect use for it. For some reason this mower is very hard on batteries.

Glad you fixed it. It’s always good to hear what other people are doing. As I mentioned I also charged my battery but there was an internal fault. I think the vibration of the mower is really hard on batteries.

That could be. That’s really flat if the metre doesn’t come on. Did you check that little fuse. Get a cheap volt metre and see what voltage the battery has. Then check all the big cables are clean and tight. You could also try jumper cables to another good battery but there are a few tricks that are good to know when jumping from your car. Good luck!

@@DavoShed I tested the solenoid like you showed on your video and I didn’t get any clicking sound. Does that mean one of my safety switches are bad? Also did the jumper cable test and starter wouldn’t start the tractor like your did. So I’m think safety switches

@scottnj It probably is your battery then. The test with the jump start lead should bypass all the safety switches. If you can’t find a place that can load test your battery buy a new one. Did you get a cheap volt meter and check the voltage?

@@DavoShed yes I did get one it was reading 12.2. The Battery was just bought brand new. You think maybe the starter then if it bypasses the switches

It could be the starter if you have done all the other tests. Was the old battery actually dead when you put the volt meter on it? Does the hour metre work now? Check both ends of the negative cable are good.

I didn’t measure the voltage while it was cranking but by the time I got it to the shop to test it on their load tester the short was worse. So the ride to the shop completely killed it. They tell me the charging system on these mowers is fairly poor but I reckon the vibration kills them prematurely.

My battery lead does not have a clip Round post connection at one end and an eye on the other end. The fuse is a standard blade fuse on the side of the battery tray. It’s quite obvious. Your design may be a little different.

Yes but I didn’t know that at the beginning. It turned out the battery had a partial short inside that was hard to determine. The goal is to home in on the problem without throwing parts at it. Regular maintenance parts like filters are a good idea anyway. If your engine turns over when you turn the key you have ruled out or already replaced the starter, solinoid and the battery as the problem. If you have replaced the air filter that’s good. It means it’s getting air. That leaves Compression, Fuel and spark. Take the spark plug out and re connect the cable, hold the threads against a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine being careful not to zap yourself. Wear rubber gloves if you are concerned about that. You should see a nice blue spark if you are inside. Can be hard to see in sunlight. If not then spark is your problem. If you don’t you could clean or replace the spark plug, they are cheap. It could be a compression problem but less likely. While the plug is out put your thumb over the spark plug hole turn the flywheel by hand. It should squeeze air past your thumb. If it doesn’t then that’s your problem. If you get a good spark put a tea spoon of fuel down the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug being careful not to cross the threads. Then try and start again. If it kicks and tries to run more than before then fuel is your problem. Check or replace the fuel filter if there is one. They are also cheap. If it still doesn’t go then your carb might need a clean. If so at most you will only need a gasket. There are heaps of carb cleaning videos out there.

It could be the starter motor. Although this is the same symptoms I was getting before I tried a different battery. My battery had an internal short. The battery was still showing over 12v but it didn’t have enough amps to crank the motor. Usually the clicking sound means not enough power to turn the motor. The click is the starter motor gear engaging. Before coughing up for a starter I’d borrow a known good battery from something else and try it with jumper leads. You could also get your battery tested at a battery shop. I think the vibration of these engines shakes the battery to death. Let me know what you come up with! Dave

Sure, but I already had this battery for my wife’s car. I bought it to get home one day after the alternator died. She sold the car before the old battery was done. So why not use it? It has more CCA than the original. The only problem was the terminals are the wrong way around. So I made longer cables. It’s still going strong 🤠

How did I trick you? :) Let me know if I can explain something better

Hi Coley, Good question. (Not sure what MWO means?) I already had that battery for a car that I recently sold. The battery was only used once to get the car home and then to a mechanic to replace a broken alternator. I could not return the battery. So I had a brand new battery worth around a couple of hundred bucks and no use for it. It was an easy modification and it came out ok. It would be silly to buy another battery and put that one back on the shelf.

Thanks! Are you having trouble with your mower or are you just looking for entertainment?

@@DavoShed yes severely trouble

I got a new battery I got has 150 cranks

Thought that fix it , it didn't started to turn over, yet it wouldn't then got weak again, I know the ign switch is bad so tried to start it by the cilnoid,, then it turned over some, yet only a few seconds then wouldn't even do that, so I looked at the starter it's cracked on the bottom, so I know that has to be changed, then / solenoid ,possiably the carborator, what else is there can be done to this 😀

@@x7warrior735 if you can, change one thing at a time then try it. Certainly a cracked starter motor needs replacing.

Hi Daniel, With the key off If you bypass everything with a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive on the starter does it crank then? If no then the problem may be with the negative connection. Take the negative cables off at both ends and clean them with a wire brush. If it still doesn’t crank this way then it may be a problem with the starter motor. Do you get the click click of the gear trying to engaged? If it does crank when you bypass everything then it is one of the other things I mention in the video. Brake micro switch PTO micro switch Seat micro switch It could be a problem with the actual ignition key switch. See if you can bypass this stuff one at a time to figure out which one it is then replace that. If you find it’s a switch don’t leave it bypassed as they all there to protect us. It’s when you are tired or distracted it will take your foot off. Use the divide by two rule. That is how can I narrow things down. I assume you can turn the fly wheel by hand. That is the engine isn’t stuck. Post again when you find the problem Dave

There is that little fuse as well but I think the hour metre won’t come on if that is blown. No lights is odd. There is always the chance you got a dud battery assuming that is new.

Yes it is. They make that one for John Deer but I’m not sure what’s special about it. Probably the badge and the oil filter :)

@@DavoShed yeah probably

Hi Garry, Make sure ALL the connections are clean. If that doesn’t help take the battery in to a battery shop and get it tested. If that’s all good then bypass the solenoid like I do in the video. Can you turn the motor by turning the fly wheel screen on top. If yes then that possibly just leaves the starter motor itself. See if you can rule out the pieces that are working and find the one that isn’t working. Good Luck 🤠

Not sure about the different JD models. I bought this D110 in 2011. No idea when this model was first released. It has a 19.5 Briggs and Stratton engine. It says “Assembled in USA” It may have some modifications for Australia. Who knows :) I hope this video helped solve your problem 🤠

@@DavoShed my L110 has the Kohler command cv491s engine and i bought it as it was used

Very good I love “W”

Ha ha, My Buttocks. I’m guessing your from the USA as many of my viewers are. There are many different expressions between USA and Australia but I wouldn’t have thought Arse was one of them. I could have said arse hole but that is to specific. 🤠 I was just trying to add a bit of comedy value like a pilot saying Flaps Up, Kick out the chocks etc. Thanks for commenting.