A flashlight looking larger in pictures than in person is something I've experienced with so. many. lights. Thanks for the video!

2 videos in a day?! We're going to get spoiled with all this good content!

Seems like Hank's upcoming boost driver would be a great fit for this DM1.12. Not sure that would ever happen though.

"A little bit of criticism" about the look seems to be an understatement in my experience. Great vid man! Interesting to see your thought process and how you evaluated this one.

It’s so tiny!!! It looks so big in the pics. What a beautiful design.

this Is a great video dude. Glad you showed the limited sustainability and Max output. Great things for people to know before they buy!

Thanks! Took a minute but took care of getting the new light set up. works great!

was waiting for this vid to drop! cheers! looks great

Awesome video man. Nice job. I just got the shipping notification for my DM1.12 (I got the stone white version, so had to wait). Looking forward to checking it out.

Been waiting for this! Thank you.

Great video. Nice thorough review. Keep it up!

Love the knurling on these lights.

I agree and take it one step further, beside being awesomely made, rhe k9.3 unfortunately never made sense.. I've owned and sold 4 of them and could never find a reason to keep it. The dm1.12 looks so good.

I have the DM1.12 in SST-20 2700K and SBT90.2. When compared to a D4V2 in XPL-HI 5000K, the brightness is visibly similar. Throw-wise, I compared it to a W1 in a Convoy C8+, while it may not throw as far, but it has a much wider hotspot that i consider more useful.

Well glad to see you got yours. I'm still waiting for Hank to ship my white one

Also, I really like the grippy tube that some people have complained about because, at least for my very big hands, it isn't the easiest flashlight to grab a hold of.

Great review!! This DM1.12 peaks my interest especially having the the choice of modes from green thrower to flood. If you haven't checked it out, my favorite light out of the 20-30 lights that i've bought over the last 2yrs is the WURKKOS D70 diving light. The size and weight is just right even for everyday throw-it-in-the-truck use. It's absolutely built like a tank and the beam color is so perfect. The 13,000lumens is nice but I find low and medium is used the most. The simplicity of it has got me spoiled and makes even my good lights feel cheap.

Oh my god! 😲 I HAVE to get one of these!

Awesome Vid!

Years ago it was the Batman sign in the sky, now it’s the Green Hornet!

This is a really good and funny video

oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! I'm only 10 seconds in. So excited! Hah

There are technical ways to boost a driver, the TM9K being just one, stock example. If Hank was going this route, perhaps it might have been better to go with multi-cell set-up, perhaps a 3 x 18650/21700 pop can. In any case, it's not going to heat soak terrible fast at... >1500L @ 30+ sec. which is kind of nice as a utility light. Still, I'd rather throttle a light back to that output and have the big lumens available temporarily. I can understand what happen with the design though. Hank wanted a TIR of a certainly size specification and that leaves a given radius, which happens to allow for 12 x LED's. Interesting nonetheless and a fun overview.

Very cool

So to get the maximum flood channel you’d have to look at the output of each emitter option at 1.5 amps. Hmmm I like mine but was a little underwhelmed by the flood as well but it grew on me. I’m looking at another with the lh351ds or even the xpl hi even though hank said the xpl is an extra 40$ (ouch)

Great video as always, Cheule. I see the SBT90.2 is now an option for the throw channel... do you think it would work well in this light? Also, what do you think of the 219BT's for flood?

I would (sorry, I will.. ) definitely get the 26800 tube for this light.. Not only it DOES make it look more like a "classic flashlight", but I can also use a spacer and an adapter to use a 21700 if I need max performance (I really don't find that mandatory though.. ) as I have both type cells AND benefit from some heat insulation on the 21700 when the light gets hot (also unlikely to happen, as I'm not after "top performance" and crazy otf Lumens count.. ) and from the thicker tube, thus more comfortable to hold and having longer run times. I wish Hank would eventually put some RGB indicator LED's in the switch and drop the front facing AUX RGB (if needed) and give us some rubber protective "sleeves" for his lights, something like those "virtually indestructible" lights like Stanley, Varta and what have you.. Ah, also some USB-C charging.. But as I'm seeing Hank following the industry standard of getting the most profit out of every little bit, I'll keep it only to the minimum with the buying and trying habbit.. (looking at those 26800 battery tubes threads.. I mean, really.. that is clearly a forced cash grab - Not nice!) Momentarily I'm quite happy with my new D4SV2 W1/LH351D (tho.. kinda bummed on the beam patterns with only 2 LED's per Ch.)

It would be nice to have quad channel light. You could have all kinds of emitters(maybe even RGBW). The D4V2 quad channel would be perfect flashlight

I like the idea of a super-flooder with 12 high-CRI diodes, but I think I’d rather have something with 3x18650 or 3x21700 for a lot more sustained brightness. It’s not like this is a super-compact light that you’re going to put in your pants pocket anyway. So I wouldn’t see it as too big of a drawback to have a wider battery tube and just have a pop can-style light that could sustain more lumens for longer. I wonder if there’s a dual-channel pop can style light like what I’m describing, that would also have the thrower in the middle?

Hell yea another lengthy video from Cheule-.

This might be a stupid question but have you calibrated the temperature in Anduril2? I got a KR4 recently that had it set to 15-20 degrees higher than the actual temp, so it was throttling down like crazy. Once I set it up correctly, it could sustain turbo much longer.

The dm1.12 definitely came from the same cad file, and it definitely has the same optic as the dm11. It's intentional of course. other manufacturers do this too. It Reduces manufacturing steps and inventory needed on hand to produce multiple lines. And keeps light "groups" looking similar. Other examples of Hank doing this, everything is identical up until the reflector / top of head: D1 & d1s (same design until reflector). k9.3 & K1 (same) Astrolux does this with their whole "EA0xx" line (Ea01, EA01s, EA02) and also their EC01 & EC03.

Given how the single cell has to manage delivering amperage to 12 emitters, lowering amps per emitter to around 1.5, would it have made more sense for Hank to have designed the outer bank with either 6 or 8 emitters instead?

Might be a noob question: Why is green desirable in the throw channel? Thanks! Getting ready to click ORDER. I'm addicted to HankLights!

How do you charge the 26800 monster, like where do you get a charger to hold it, all the ones I find just go up to 26650.

Look like kid toys. Love my Fenix LR40R

You need a LONG tubeand two batterys to get the full lum then?? For more amperage right?

You made my day Cheule I'm waiting on the white one sft-40 sst-4000k...can it run both channels at the same time?

Would have liked to see an outdoor comparison between the D4S and the DM1.12. Just to see how much throw the extra size is getting you (a lot, I’m sure - but do I need it?).

Hank states the dt8 with 8x sst20 4000k has 4600lumens at turn on. 12 emitters should be brighter at the same amperage than 8 emitters due to the higher efficiency you get running each emitter at a slightly lower amperage. Also a P42 or 40t can push more amps than a VTC6 for example. I don’t think it’s just the battery. Something is off. Probably a less efficient or less powerful driver?

I was a tad surprised at the turbo output numbers too. Based on lygte's graphs, a 40T should have a 0.2v higher load voltage than a 30q at 20A. At 30A, the 40T should still be about 0.1v higher than a 30Q @ 20A. You would think that since it has a higher voltage at load and is capable of higher current, it would be able to overcome the higher forward voltage of the emitter as the current increases plus any additional losses in the circuit from FET or spring resistance. I'd be curious for someone to do a teardown and actually test the host's spring resistance along with the FET voltage drop/resistance. I wonder if this is actually a limitation of the springs or the FET itself.

this is insane

XPL center and sst20 cri for flood and white body. Now all hank has to do is ship it. It the 30th today!

Is there a way to find the 18650 tube for the manker? I have the mc13 but cannot find the tube anywhere!

Did not think before i tex,that would make volt to high and burn it up unless they were in parrall

Good technical review but. … you could do with getting some decent been shots in the dark, your beam shots have ambient light . Trailtrek from the Uk tests stuff out in pitch black conditions.

Just curious, in the video, you commented on how Hank stated the reason you only achieved about 4,000 lumens on your light, was due the battery not being able to supply enough amps but, my Fireflies E12 has the same 12-SST20's and its output is much higher. Doesn't than seem to make his explanation open for more investigation into the true cause?

What battery do you recommend with this flashlight? I am planning on getting the sft-40 and the sst20

How's it compare to the olight mini marauder?

One more thing, did you reflash yours to use both channels at once? Don’t know why hank didn’t make them that way to begin with

I think what you’re saying is that we need a multi-cell dm1.12 or a single-cell dm1.4….

Which tube do you like better balance-wise?

The Acebeam X10 is the ultimate combine light in the 1 battery class. Did you ever had it?

Do you prefer this or the olight mini marauder for general outdoor flashlight use?

More emitters should mean better sustain in turbo mode though, dude to increased heat sync mass, area, and lower temp per emitter, right?

I’m thinking SFT-40 center and SST 40 4K around the ring.

Get him to do a custom back end that's long with two cells in parallel, problem solved. Shat you're seeing is voltage sag under load. Volts plus imedance sets amps. Impedance may be non linear but it's still a sag issue.

Sir, why does my DM1.12 switch turn off when the light is turned on? Also to separate the operation of the 2 channels seems wonky, one example is a double click for turbo will ways light both channels, no matter what channel is being used. Thank you.

Lenticular, not elliptical optics on the K9.3. Great review, btw!

Good vid ... TMI

Is it possible to have both flood and throw active at the same time?

I just got mine yesterday. I got red sst-20s on the outside for red light therapy and preserving night vision, and an SFT-40 in the middle, but after your video I wish I'd have gotten a W1 for throw. I didn't see it on the menu, did you do a special request?

One thing I always wonder when watching your videos - do your neighbours think you’re nuts?

Hey, newbie question, does anyone know how I'd charge this flashlight? Take out the battery and place it in a rechargeable adapter, or does the flashlight have USB C port?

but can you get it with a picatinny rail mount?

Improved/different AB X10?

Compare it to the acebeam x50

How do I switch between spot and flood?

While with the dm12.1 you might not get the increase in lumens that you might expect from the increased number of emitters you will get much better efficiency. The harder you drive an emitter the less efficient it is and the loss in efficiency is very significant. Personally I would get this light in the 26800 configuration. Whatever brightness you gain with a higher drain 21700 battery can't be sustained with this light for more than literally a couple seconds. I think this light screams 26800. That capacity with the light's inherent efficiency and choice of low power high throw w1 center channel emitters puts this light into the realm of heavy duty usage. Every 26800 I own tests well above 7ah.

The answer is Hank needs t6o move to 4695 Battery for you SST-20's

I can't believe that Hank doesn't use the same threads on this, the DM11, and the D4SV2 so you can use the same 26800 tube. Absolutely absurd.

Hanks osram nomenclature is his own and not intuitive. Perhaps a bit of a disservice and much cause for confusion. He calls a culnm1 a w2.1 and a culpm1 a w2.2, but when a cslnm1 is a w1 and a cslpm1 is a w2 then it doesnt make sense. This makes much more sense: w1 cslnm1 w2 cslpm1 W1.1 culnm1 W2.1 culpm1

Hank can do a better job with the head benzel design :(

This thing looks like my shower wtf