A real shop??? HG you have way more than enough knowledge and skills to get this blower up and running!!! You are the reason I'm able to fix my equipment. Can't wait for the next upload. Excited to see this blower in action

Make it a long video I like those

Thanks for this video! A neighbor was disposing of one of these blowers because it wouldn't start. I had no experience with small engines, but I thought that with the help of videos like this, I might be able to fix it. I picked it up, and after looking it over, I decided to replace the carburetor. Ordered a new carburetor with fuel lines, fuel filter, air filters, spare primer bulbs, and spark plug. Replaced everything with no problems, but still no joy. It would hit even with starter fluid. I pulled the muffler and looked at the ring and thought it looked okay. Put it aside for a while, then looked again and decided the ring might be stuck. I figured that I had nothing to lose at this point, so I disassembled the blower and engine and found the ring was indeed stuck. I broke it while trying to free it, so I cleaned the grove and piston while I waited for a replacement ring. I installed the new ring, reassembled the blower, and it started right up! 😂 Thanks again for posting this and giving me the chance to learn/do something new!

One of your best videos - it's nice seeing an uncommon diagnosis

One thing to do is check continuity of the lead of the ignition module with a multi meter and move and pull the lead around while doing it and see if there is a break or loose connection somewhere. I have been caught out with that before where i checked for spark it was fine but when i plugged the lead back into spark plug i had nothing because of the way the lead was bent over to attach to the plug and i couldn't understand why it was not starting. It's not a common problem but i have seen it from time to time and worth taking a couple of seconds to check.

Had the same problem, Poulan, wouldn't help, low compression, stuck piston ring. Cleaned piston, freed ring, bought new ring, reassembled. Fired right up, but didn't last long, till it did it again. Bought new head & piston & ring. Runs like new, now! Learned a lot. Great video!!!

A real shop ? Sir you are humble !.Your experience surpasses so called real shops.Dude you fixed it .that stuck ring fix will bring up the compression at least 25 psi.its fixed now.great job and another awesome video.

A super video for me as DIYer . I am at the same stage with a Stihl sh 86 . I have it ten years and have managed to keep it operating . The last time it just stopped suddenly .Checked spark and all OK. Replaced carb. No go Replaced coil. No go Replaced fly wheel No go Replaced spark plug. No go Currently waiting on a compression tester to arrive , but in the meantime I purchased a new one to relieve the stress . Please get the other video up soon as I can not wait to see the result . I hope to hear it running like a song . PS the day before my blower failed I think I heard a sharp crack coming from it but on failure day it ran good for five minutes . Previous failings were repaired by Carb renewal Coil renewal Kill wiring harness renewal , intermittent stops due to faulty harness . Bolt coming loose behind flywheel causing a mechanical seizure I know this is my Stihl history lesson please forgive ,but it may be of help to someone .

Once again I checked with my daughter and she said it has a bad goer. I think you are spot on with your analysis. The only other thing I can think of might be a problem with those reeds that let gas and air to flow into the combustion chamber. Looking forward to the next video.

Thanks for making this video… it helped me get my leaf blower running again. Much appreciated!

My favorite how do I fix this channel 🤝

I`m voting for weak or intermitant spark since it was running ok with the stuck ring for probably some time.Great instructional video !

I can’t wait for part 2!

Mate, I think you are 100% on the right path. That piston ring needs to be freed up as not only was the compression low, it can cause the eventual problem of a ceased engine. I look forward to the next episode.

I’ve learned a ton watching your videos but I’ve always heard of you don’t have at least 100 psi then the blower is no good so I think you are on the right track

Your videos are fantastic! I appreciate that you don't just narrate while you're working. It's so much more helpful when you record the narration after you've made the video track. Pure pro, man. Pure pro!! I wish you had a tip jar!!

Genuinely a professional quality video; very articulate and thorough! I just went through the exact same gyrations with a Poulan BVM200VS blower that I trash picked. Went through the carb...renewed the fuel lines and freed the piston ring. Noted that it had a new spark plug (clue). Well, I get intermittent spark with the plug grounded but believe that it's likely not sparking when under compression when operating dynamically. Checked air gap and keyway, so I'm condemning the coil. This one's pretty worn out, so likely not worth the $15 for a new coil. Heading to the parts bin!

Good day Yes u are going the right as far I would think, but it is a puzzle, but you are the mechanic & I am the watcher. Good luck & thanks

Make a long video. I thoroughly enjoy these videos. You have a loyal follower.

FINALLY you come across a stuck ring! I had this exact thing happen with a RedMax blower I was given from a landscaper who said it just wouldn't start one day.

Had same problem. After considerable checking, found the finest hair line cut in wiring grounding it to block. Repaired and runs good as new.

Out of all the 2 stroke leaf blowers I've used/repaired, Poulan BVM series were the most troublesome. Mine had over 140psi and didnt have lose outer bolt issue but carb adjustment was extremely sensitive. Utimately, I was able to fine tune the L/H screws on the carb but I spent more time adjusting carb than actually using this leaf blower.

I have 2 of the same blowers and haven’t post them for sale since I couldn’t get them to run in optimal condition, even put a new carburetor and still have very erratic idling, and hardly ever stays running, unless I hit the throttle, already adjusted the carb and when it seems to be right the next day is acting up again, removed muffler and surprisingly there’s very little to nothing scratches, just a slight carbon buildup on the exhaust port, move the piston in a position where the exhaust port can be cleaned, also submerged the muffler in gasoline to clean all carbon, oil buildup, put it together and finally got a great improvement when starting it and now stays running in idle but still a slight erratic idling. I decided to disassemble the other (same model, got them a yard sales) and cylinder had a very slight fine scratch but the piston ring was stuck like yours in the video, I’m pretty sure that was the real culprit in those leaf blowers. My guess, home owners rarely run blowers or weed eaters full throttle, and they either plug up exhaust arresters, exhaust port or even the muffler, what I noticed when there’s buildup in the muffler or exhaust port the engine floods quickly or run rich. The other situation home owners don’t mix fuel and oil in the correct ratio, (worst case) they put in very little oil and that wears their engines and then come saying but it was running fine before it quit or the that before it started and run.

Great video, hopefully the next video will show it starting. I don’t think your viewers would mind a longer video. I know I don’t mind. Thanks see you on the next one.

Good job cleaning the ring and groove, make sure to clean the carbon out of the exhaust port as this can make issues with low power or not starting. Also try a different spark tester, I like the jump the gap type as sometimes the orange glow type will give you a false test. Thanks for the video.

I had 2 partially stuck piston rings this year on different equipment. They were both from the company that cuts my grass. New rings, gaskets, seals, and they ran like they were brand new. I probably could have just done the rings or cleaned the carbon and put the rings back on. But, considering their use, it's better to just replace those while the block is apart. Both machines had compression readings in the 75-80 range, so when I saw that on yours, my first guess was piston ring if not a scored piston/cylinder. As long as the ring wasn't too worn on the outside, the cleanup should get sufficient compression for it to start and run again. It looked like there was some carbon in the exhaust built up too (hard to tell on camera), which I try to clean up a little as well for better air flow.

It's great to have tinker time. What it is not important. It's about having something to do. Also you are teaching. The repair is the same regardless what it cost. Sometimes the cheap ones are harder to fix due to quality.

Hi mate. Well done finding that the piston ring was stuck. Looking forward to see if the compression will increase. Cheers 🦘🇦🇺

You did it the correct way. It’s not that often you see a ring get stuck on a two stroke unless it’s the vertical scratch marks the keeps it pushed back into the groove. Great video as always

Great job cleaning that ring! Took piston from one as ring was scored. Installed in another one and the sucker started!! Used 40-1 mix. I have a weed wacker that I bought at Wal Mart, for $99. Never even replaced the plug on it. Use it twice a week in the summer. What I don’t do is rev the crap out of it. That’s what ruins most of them. Oh, it’s over 10 years old already. Let’s see what happens this spring.😊

I have this same blower that I rebuilt from the ground up and have noticed that when I put it away the next day the fuel tank is completely empty, I believe I have a leak somewhere in the tank.

I think that it will come down to low compression as to the reason why it would not run. Eighty PSI, from my experience, is a bit low for a two stroke to run at all. It will be interesting to see how much the compression increases when you button everything back up. The only other thing that it could be is a weak spark from the coil.

I had the exact same problem from start to finish of this video. Mine was a Husqvarna. Mine ring was also carboned stuck and I replaced the ring and cleaned the groove. Reassembled and it fired up.

I recently had one of these and the ring was very carbon jammed. Jug was nice, not scored, so I soaked it in pb blaster. 36 hours later, I destroyed the ring. Good thing I ordered the ring initially. I cleaned the piston and installed new ring and Psi jumped from 36 to 120. You showed this model in a previous video and it was very helpful.

your most surely on to something and i reckon that crankshaft seal might be part of the culprit from my view seeing all that dirt around where the flywheel sits on that section between the flywheel key and main seal etc.

Nice info n tutorial..👍💪😄..greeting from Malaysia..🇲🇾

phew, that's a LOT of work, for a cheap blower. IDK if i'd have went to the extent you did, sir. I commend you on your diligence and perseverance though! Who'd have though that a stuck piston ring would have caused all of those issues. Great video IHG!

I had a trimmer,that had spark compression fuel still would not start,it was the gasket between the insulator and engine had to replace.

Checking the cylinder compression alone on a 2 stroke, only gives you a small picture because of the way air alone enters the combustion chamber. Two other areas to check are crankcase pressure and crankcase vacuum. Crank vacuum is what air into the engine and unlike a 4 stroke, the air does not enter the combustion chamber from the intake. Air and fuel are drawn into the crank case where it is compressed and "Transferred" to the cylinder for compression and ignition. There are several ways that the crank vacuum and compression are achieved (piston port, rotary valve or reed valve, however all require a good seal between the piston and the cylinder near and to the bottom of stroke. If for any reason, there is a crankcase leak sufficient air and fuel will not be drawn into the engine. Also, there is no float bowl so the main jet fuel supply is governed by a built-in fuel pump and needle valve. All of the fuel pumps are powered buy the fluctuating air pulses in the crankcase and if they are not sufficient, no fuel will enter the engine. The simple task of freeing up the sing may and probably was sufficient to restore proper crankcase seal and and allow the engine to start

Thanks for the video I took mine apart and found the piston ring stuck also. I wasn't as lucky as you I'm waiting for a new ring in the mail, mine broke into pieces.

Check the ring for a flat spot. Years ago I took two Poulan blowers of this type apart and in each case I found a flat spot worn on the outer circumference. I bought a new ring for each blower and fixed the compression problem.

I'll be waiting for the next part....

Think your on the right track . Did the piston have arrow point to the muffler side.

ANY lead is a lead and you'll never know unless you follow it up. Good deal and Blessings!

that piston has been through hell

I've seen a similar problem in a car. Turned out the coil was no good. It can show spark in a tester, but still not fire the plug.

I think you covered all the bases but it might be an intermittent coil problem. I've got one for you, i got a brand new old stock Tecumseh tc 300 series engine that runs great but i put my compression tester on it' just to see how good a new one would read and all its got is 37psi. i've checked my tester hooked it up on my air compressor adjusted it to 80psi and that is what the compression tester read. I know it doesn't make sense & it left me scratching my head.😂😂Good video & good luck. I'm looking forward to see what you find out.

I'm having the same issue with my Dad's old craftsman. spark, fuel, and low compression but still enough. Not really worth fixing anymore, it had the carb replaced last year.

Hmmm good question. I’m not really sure how to answer that. I guess if it runs at you do what your doing it might show it was a compression problem.

While 80 psi isn't ideal, I find it hard to believe that is the issue. I have an echo es210 with 60 psi compression (new ring and I ball honed the cylinder with no increase in compression) but it starts and runs well. I would lean more toward a coil issue/weak spark or an air leak somewhere. I would also use a better oil to prevent that carbon build-up. I run Echo Red armour @ 50:1 in some equipment, and Amsoil Saber @ 80:1 in all my new Echo's (pas2620, hc2210, and pb9010) . Whether or not that was THE issue for the lack of start it certainly was a issue for that blower Hopefully, you got it fixed and great video!!

This/you is a real shop!

Think your in right direction, but would have replaced ring while it was out...I've seen this before on that engine..I changed the ring...still no start...but way better comp....I went back to the Spark again..& with the spark tester showed spark like yours...however I felt the the light wasn't strong enough "Bright enough" so while I had it apart I changed out the coil assembly with a Known functioning unit I also had...Put it together & it started right up...So I think the coil was going or gone even thou it still produced spark on my spark tester..I have same tester as you!! Also check that the crankcase plastic cover seal looks good and the cover itself has no hairline cracks...ran into that once before too with low comp...Keep up the good work!! Always enjoy your video's!!

I would say spot on with the low compression causing non-start, however the cause is probably using the wrong type 2-stroke oil, some people will mix in any type they can find and if its castor based or racing spec it needs higher temperatures to burn off cleanly, if the engine is running cooler than the oil was designed for the unburnt oil turns into a gummy mess and cause ring sticking & port clogging.

I haven't seen the next video yet but your going in the right direction , compression is low , 80 % forget it , you need at least 100 psi minimum and 120 to 140 psi would be great ! As foe a real shop , your doing great ! Someone ran that blower with less than adequate premix ratio , yes it probably states 50.1 mix but never ever run a poulan blower like that one on anything less than 40.1 ratio premix and make sure it's synthetic premix oil , echo red armor or my personal choice mercury quicksilver 2 cycle marine premix at 40.1 ratio , as for checking the ignition timing thats not a bad idea but I have never saw a flywheel that stripped or jumped keyway on that type of set up !

Got 3 of these with no run issue , replaced rings in all and cashed out.

That's a tough call I would have gone the same way You did to save some money Understandable that it is extremly frustrating .

Is there enough primary compression, are the crank seals ok ?

I have taken my 15+ year old Poulan apart so may times to fix shit. Luckily never that. Have to say, I had no money when I bought that thing and it still is useful as a backup blower.

i wouldnt say you went in the wrong direction sometimes engines are just complicated rabbit holes. but the only thing i thought to check that i didn't hear you say was fuel pump/sending unit

hi...love your vids! i have the same blower. it will start and run good but only if i put gas on the carb..it dont start with out putting gas on the carb. any ideas?

I think freeing the ring will get this engine working again. Definitely not supposed to be stuck, and 80psi of compression really is on the low side. I don't necessarily think that 80 is enough compression to make this engine run, probably depends on the engine, but I'm guessing this one is set up in such a way that it needs more than 80 psi to work properly. The only other things I can think of are that either fuel or air got blocked off somehow, but you bypassed the fuel system by putting fuel directly into the engine, and it didn't appear to have anything keeping air out, so not sure what else could cause it. Maybe exhaust/spark arrestor clogged somehow? Any mention of how well it ran the day before it wouldn't start?

Do you think that Sea Foam or any fogging product might have worked on the stuck piston?

I'm just as asshole who doesn't know what he's doing, since you've asked. I think you're making logical steps to fix it.

I have the exact same mcculloch leaf blower, I’m trying to find the right size pvc pipe to attach to make it a leaf sucker.

Just as a question, when storing two stroke equipment, leaf blower weed eater and chainsaws, should I empty all the fuel out of them and run until completely empty?

What hex key did you used? And would adding some MMO to the mix would help prevent carbon build up?

Could it be something to do with the stop switch

Can you explain more about what the other method of removing the fly wheel is and what the risk associated with it is please?

I've got a poulan pro trimmer pp446et that's annoying me similar to your blower. I've got spark, got gas. The spark arrestor screen is clean. I don't have a compression tester. I've changed the coil & a new carburetor & spark plug. I've seen gas come out the carburetor & muffler even after I replaced the carburetor. Dried the plug & did the unflooding stuff. There's a coat of carbon on top of the piston. I'd hate to take it all apart again to check the timing key. I'm about ready to sell it for parts or throw it away.

What type of cleaner did you use on it? Seems like a good one

What is in the spray bottle what kind of cleaner works better

Sorry to be a pain but I think my problem is the spark arrestor. Could you give me any advice on how I remove it or do I clean it while it’s in the muffler? Thank you so much for your help.

What are you spraying and rinsing to clean the outside of the blower?

Cracked housing.

WOW! Sherlock Holmes lives!👍

I don't know if that blower ran but I have an identical blower with identical non run situation. I am stumped. short of replacing the cylinder and piston, I can find no other solution. I am open to suggestion.

👍

That was some nasty deposits on that piston. Oil related failure from deposits.

@homegarage I got a question for you do you know where to find this carburetor for my mower it's a 2006 briggs and stratton

What did you use to clean the carbon off

This one is going full send. My guess was bad gas almost before the video started. Then I got tired after several jumps to a conclusion. At this point a recall buying a cheap Poulan chainsaw for ≈ $99 on Amazon. I used it for about an hour to cut down a tree and it crapped out on me, never to run again on the next use five minutes later. I took it to the shop because it was brand new and was told the cylinder was scored so bad it could not be repaired. I was so mad at that chainsaw that I used it like a horseshoe all over the backyard is an effort to feel better about the loss.

How do you get that little swing gate open at 1:22 in the video?

I've got one of the older poulan 2000 blower/vac it starts easy when it's cold but after it runs and get warm when you shut it off it won't start back I'm ready to throw it in the trash

Okay, let’s see what is reviewed in the follow up video, but you did the right thing but it may be carburettor related when it comes to troubles but compression is a major factor.? It would of been replaced if you had to repair at shop

I have pretty much the same blower

Hey man what 2 cycle oil do you use

Check the trigger. Make sure it’s opening up enough

This one definitely is the blower equivalent to "Its just cheaper to go get a junkyard engine" rather than diagnose if this was in a car.

Not a big fan of the poplin pro, what brand are you least fond of? Oh and ive been trying to send you comments o videos but for some reason they haven’t been sending, pretty weird, sorry if i went quite for a few months

What type of screw driver do I need to take off the muffler? Thank you.

I know you have made videos short and it's mostly because of the editing that you have to do takes a lot. But like a previous user on here says too I like long videos also... Yes freeing up the ring was a fantastic thing to do... A little break home down the cylinder walls would have done another clean up too and make it slide easier...

Does it just use gas?

Hey did you know that if a 2strok says it takes 40 to 1 you can put 50 to 1 in it and it won't hurt it at all

This "blows" me away

I have the same one that you are going to fix the one that I have won't start ethier

When you tried to start it with the drill you were going backwards ?

Is that a different rod toward the end of the video? I can't tell.

4:55 would it be in start position?

I believe it'll run after this repair

Use paint thinner to dissolve carbon buildup