I have a new carb. from Amazon that just came in the mail for my Stihl trimmer. I didn't even go to the Stihl dealer and ask how much an OEM carb would cost when I saw the prices on Amazon. OEM prices are so out of line that if you can fix it yourself, it never pays to take it to the dealer for repairs. The price of OEM parts is the main culprit.

30 years as a certified OPE technician, and Stihl Master Service tech, and everything you did in this video is exactly what we do in the shop. Sure, I give the quote to the customer with the OEM carb, then another with a carb off Amazon, and truth be told, the Amazon cheapo carbs works just fine, my advice is just go with that. Never even bother wasting time trying to clean the carbs anymore, it's a simple matter if "when in doubt, throw it out" when it comes to carbs. One thing to remember though, Stihl's hate inferior 2 stroke oil. Try to stick with Stihl oil, Castrol (they make it for Stihl), Lucas Oil, or even Echo oil. Using cheap oil or outboard marine motor 2-stroke oil will destroy a Stihl in short order. I mean it, I cannot stress that enough, I have a boneyard of FS130's and BR600's that were only a few months old but were destroyed because the owners chose to run cheap oil in the fuel mix.

I’ve sold stihl equipment for 15 years and worked with top mechanics. Most of the problems we dealt with were bad gas , cheap oils or ethanol!

I find it far more economical and way less stressful to just buy an aftermarket carb. Some of the time they even include fuel filters, fuel line, extra bulbs, etc.

I just got through installing my new China carburetor kit . It was $19.98.Everything was easy, went back together perfectly! It even came with new hoses, two extra fuel filters, a spark plug, and two extra primer bulbs. Which I replaced all of it. Other than an idle adjustment, I didn't have to adjust anything else. And now the weedeater runs perfectly! Thanks for the info sir.

I've been watching many videos of fixing trimmer carburetors and this is, I believe, the best that I've seen so far. Straight forward, to the point and no fluff. Thanks for a great video. I will be looking out for you in the future.

You made the correct decision...get the aftermarket carb, because more than likely it will last nearly as long. The important point here is Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance....and keep maintaining it.

Working at a dealership of Stihl products i can say, yes stihl carbs are pricey. we've tried aftermarket and it's about a 50/50 shot they'll work. So we typically we stay away from them, just for the hassles sake and possible doubling the time invested in repairs. But for homeowners, i say go for it.

Your videography has gotten quite good. You made the right decision on the carb. Your co-worker should be a happy customer.

I think you made the correct decision. You might have considered a carb kit, but those are pricey too. If you were running a commercial shop, let the owner decide, but you're doing this as a hobby..you get the idea. You got it running, that's what matters.

One thing I always do when an engine won’t start is put in fresh fuel and remove the spark plug to add a bit of fuel directly into the chamber. It is surprising the number of times the machine starts and then just keeps running. I run the machine for 15 or 20 minute, which will tend to lubricate the diaphragms and unblock the carburetor.

Thank you for your videos. I enjoy your troubleshooting process and your clear instructions. Please make more content.

My Echo straight shaft brush cutter, leaf blower and pole chainsaw all eventually would not start. I cleaned and put a kit in the brush cutter carb but it still wouldn't start so I installed a after market carb and it started right up and has been running perfect now for three years. When the other two machines quit I went with new carbs out of the gate. All three run great and start easily. I started using racing fuel three years ago and believe the ethanol free, leaded fuel with no additives helps keep the fuel systems in good working order when not being used regularly.

I feel like with quality fuel, oil, and maintenance, any carb will last sufficiently long to justify it. I use A LOT of aftermarket carbs, especially on 2 stroke equipment. I find cleaning them, even in my ultrasonic, is sometimes hit or miss. There's a lot of little check valves on the ones with the built-in primer bulbs. I use a small jar (Peanut butter, etc) that is clean to put my 2 cycle carbs into the ultrasonic. I use the same gas I would use in equipment, in the jar. I find this does a very good job on cleaning these items, and doesn't immerse it in even more dirt/grime than was already with it. Ultrasonic makes it MUCH easier to clean the more gummed up mower/pressure washer carbs. I've put some pretty nasty ones in it, and with a good degreaser & dawn dish soap, they come out in much better shape. I still use my carb spray to rinse and help unclog small passages that may still require my pokey tool. I will disassemble the carb early in my process, put in the cleaner and during the 10-15 mins, allows me time to remove wheels (lubricating), sharpen blades, etc. Once it's done, I'm ready to assemble everything.

The carb looked very clean but the diaphragms had hardened. I personally would have purchased a carb re-build kit and tried to correct the problem that way. If the rebuild failed, I would go with the aftermarket carb like you did. I have this trimmer BTW and did rebuild mine successfully.

I love aftermarket carbs and always recommend them. Some customers still insist on OEM which is fine if they are willing to pay for it.

Nothing wrong with ordering the aftermarket carb because it's an easy way to at least have a rebuild kit if the cheap carb doesn't work well you can use the parts to try rebuilding the original carb. It's a great plan 😁

You did the right thing. I had the same issue and ordered an after-market carb from Amazon for $13.00. It saved me a lot of time, and it worked perfectly. 😊

I like the thrill of the chase. Lol. It’s only a hobby for me. Sometimes I eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats me and I buy an aftermarket carb. No judgement either way as long as the darn thing gets up and running. Thanks for your time HG

i found that when you clean a spark arrestor, its best not to use a wire brush. This is because when scratched, it creates a much better bonding surface for the carbon to adhere to. I like to use compressed air, but most of the time you dont have to use either. Nice job, appreciate the fine work

Good video! Over the years as a farm equipment/ lawn & garden tech, I've grown into the "Never-seize" habit. Spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc get a dab of the stuff.

Thanks for sharing. You’re knowledgeable on this subject matter, it’s greatly appreciated.

First, when I’m done using any of my two cycle equipment I dump gas back in the fuel/oil mix gas can I have. Then I start and run it until it quits. I was all the gas out of the carburetor that I can get out. I work on my own stuff and have used after market carbs on repairs I’ve made with very few issues. So I don’t fault you for using them. Thanks for the video.

Nice job. Pro tips are awesome. Spend 10 minutes on the carb and if you need to replace go for it. I’d probably do the OEM but I’m not a small engine shop. Most customers would opt for aftermarket too!!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have two STIHL Brush cutters, but the big FS 240 (not an R model, mine has motorcycle handles).failed to start or even try. The air filter was filthy and I did my best to clean it with my compressor, but still no joy. Spark plug looked fine, fuel in the bulb and couldn't find any spark arrestor on my European model, but noticed some green stuff in the exhaust box holes so poked them and a load of green powder dust came out. Some critters must've made it their home over winter and blocked it. After a general degunge, gave it a pull and she fired first time. Will go order or buy a new air filter tomorrow, but the triangular bladed was needed over the smaller model wire today to cut some really tall thick weeds where as the wire would've been constantly requiring adjustment.

Thanks, this is very interesting as I've faced similar issues with my 2 strokes.What works for me is to buy an OEM rebuild kit if possible and then also, a pattern Chinese carb for standby.I found in my Stihl fs 50, strimmer , both diaphragms were very tired after only two seasons 😢, the fuel pump diaphragm seems to be made from acetate and the longevity is poor in my machine. So no problems for me with a pattern carb as it can't be any worse 🙃 .Best Regards and thanks again 😊 Ian 🇬🇧

I had to replace the carb on my KM130 last week. Got an OEM one for $125. It wasn’t cheap, but that’s the first repair in 13 years. The machine runs like new now.

😅 i do the same you do.i am cheap.and when i fix equipment for friends.i ask them if they want oem parts or aftermarket.and they do the same.aftermarket parts.thank you for taking time to do this educational.videos.

After market carbs work good for the most way to go

Great instructional video thanks

My older stihl stuff is still going . Newer stihl stuff is too expensive.😊 And I've never had a problem with after market carbs.

Excellent videos! Thanks so much

You did exactly what I would've done....Nothing wrong with doing a budget repair job.

I have a fs90r.i love it! I start my equip,in the winter,

i used to have this same machine gearbox maybe was gone but i did some redneck engineering and the head worked again.

Thank you a lot! I really like how you explained in your videos about how to fix this machines I hope I can fix my weed eater Fs91r which start but it dies…

If it is ok with your co worker then you did the right thing. Great video

Very good video , I agree with the after market carb

I would of done the same thing. Great repair 👍🙏👍🙏

I'd probably give them the options and then it'd all be on them. If I hadn't broken the throttle shaft on the carb on the electric start I'd have cleaned/rebuilt it but had to get a knockoff BUT it works fine after I worked out the primer issue. Thanks and Happy Weekend

I would have first looked for an OEM carb rebuild kit. Second choice would have been an aftermarket rebuild kit. I want to keep as much original parts on my Stihl equipment as possible.

well for me i,d check with the types of choices online and see what,s good on price depending on where i live and what the good reviews are on the products out there etc.

In this situation, the cheap carb, it works and unless the customer changes his ways a OEM carb would be a waste of money.

A neighbor brought over an antique Stihl chsainsaw and the carb was really messed up. A new OER carb was 'way too much $$$ so we bought a Chinesium version at $12.00. It included a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, a LOT of fuel line, the clunk/filter, the air filter and the carb. I put it on and in three pulls it was running perfectly. I never had to adjust anything! It's still running with the Amazon $12.00 carb three years later and - frankly - if I had to buy a new one for every new cutting season - we'd still be money ahead compared to buying just one Stihl carb.

With the carbon on the spark plug might check what kind of oil has been used to mix the fuel,maybe another brand would give less carbon (although the screen didn't look too bad)

Same issue with my Stihl. Used after market carb which worked fine.

ive had good luck with cleaning carbs never had to buy a aftermarket thank god but the only time i would consider is if it was my personal machine and i really liked it lol

Hey HG I find myself fixing 8 to 10 year old machines that are not on there last leg but have maybe a few years left on them. I find using OEM parts on a machine that is not worth the price of the part silly and bad investment into the machine . I am upfront with my customers and let them know I can get a clone carb for 1/2 the price of a OEM and they usually work out great . If I have a machine back becasue of the clone part I will replace it again easy. Now if I had a customer come in with new say blowder and can not get i to run for ny reason I would suggest a OEM part for the machine no question .

Had A Stihl Trimmer...Nothing But Carby Problems.Changed To A Honda...Perfect

The real culprit in these carbs with the purger/primer bulb are the non return valves in their black base. If either of them leak the metering diaphragm will not function properly. Replacing that part will get the OE carb going. But the AM carbs are a hit or miss for this reason. Their non return valves dont hold properly sometimes out of the box. For this reason i have adapted after market chainsaw carbs on my FS130 and fitted a seperate purger that is used on the FS 120/200/250/400 etc. These carbs are more generous in their scope of H and L adjustments and offer a longer service life, though the initial work for adaptation is quite a lot. Post script. Sometimes the purger valves can be cleaned by pumping liquid detergent and water , with it fitted on a old carb body thathas no metering valve. But that is a gamble

i use after market carbs all the time .i get things cheap or for free because of people using reg gas that has ethanol/water rather than premium /straight gas .the water tends to corrode the aluminum or gum them up not letting floats work .if anyone complains about what you do maybe they have ocd ...lolo good job on the video.

Personally I would have gone with an OEM carb kit, but aftermarket is fine too.

If the after market carb works just fine,then that’s the one I would be buying. Good choice my friend.

I find the 4mix engines have a lot more issues than the good old 2 stroke engines

I ordered a carb. It came several weeks later from China. I put it in and it ran perfect without adjustment. I took out the little screen. Why do you need two intake filters. Now, I only use the high dollar gas but I only use the Stihl for the heavy jobs with the metal blade. For my normal trimming, I have a DeWalt, 60V trimmer with the companion blower and chain saw. At 87, I need to conserve energy and stress.

I would ask the owner which way he wanted to go, but for me, after market carb.

Great video. Only thing is I was waiting to see if you would replace the fuel filter and how you would pop that cap off the fuel tank can you give me some insight into how you might do that mine looks exactly like yours, the cap that is and I'm afraid to break some plastic and removing it cuz I know my fuel filter is clogged but I can't get to it any other way. Thank you.

The comment about the co worker who is better off in the same job 😅. I've been there but on the other spectrum with more vacation and pay than someone who has been there much longer. It's all about negotiation and making sure that the company understands that you are an asset vs liability. Not there anymore but I got in trouble for someone seeing a pay stub while in my vehicle. (Which was much nicer than coworkers) I didn't even show it but dude saw it. He didnt get the $3500 Christmas bonus but $700. He had a thats not my job type mentality, and I was more adaptable and would float around to help if needed. He still works there and is miserably content and I work for a nascar team. I'm also a middle school drop out with an outstanding amount of knowledge in electrochemical engineering, crane engineering, and R&D Tire engineer for race teams. I have no debt and own everything in my possession. Technically nobody ever owns anything I guess, not even freedom

Bought new Stihl OEM carb 45$, after 11 mos stopped working ! Dealer told me to pound sand. 15$ Chinese carb (HIPA KIT) and back in business with new fuel lines,bulbs,plugs,filter included also. So Done with oem

i have always been very apprehensive about aftermarket/knockoff carbs that aftermarket carb looks exactly the same as the original and performs well i'm quite surprised you didn't have to change the mixture screws my dad dropped off his honda 35cc brushcutter today saying its leaking fuel a quick look and its leaking tons of fuel out of the carb both sections where the membrane material seals the carb sections called honda $106AUD for a new carb i don't think so if its too far gone i will be going down the same road you did

u did good... gj .. same i would have done!...im do alot carbs - ALOT- so im rare case- i replace the inside parts and i renew the needle /seat hole ! :>).. basically rebuild the old carb.

Good job 👍

A few days ago, I was working on a newer echo string trimmer and when I was pulling on the rope to try to start it I noticed that it was pretty quiet which was strange but when I took off the spark arrestor screen I found the first problem the spark arrestor screen was completely clogged with carbon so much so that the engine was not starting on the feel that I put into the carpets throat but after I clean the spark arrestor screen the engines running really well

I usually keep the old carb order a rebuild kit and then do it up when I have the time hey when another one comes in you have a working carb

Well done Thanks for useful information I have fs450 sthil trimmer I need replace recoil but we haven't in our stores I need your advise from any brand to get recoil to can run it again

i like that... going on a vacation and not really wanting to be there for how ever "long". Q. for ya though... if it were me i would like to keep the original carb. just to have on hand and know with careful handing i could have a successful o.e.m. rebuild, and to put that back into my stash for a rainy day. what would you think bout doing something like that or do you already have a small stash?!?

Mine had similar issues. I bought a cheap carb and stolen the parts failed on the oem one. Oem parts expensive and you can't always find them. Works like new after few hours of use.

I cleaned my stock carb and ordered a $9 rebuild kit. $11 Cheaper than an aftermarket carb.

Taking the screen out is the best solution to fix a clogged spark arrestor

Great video, very informative. I just put a Chinese carb on a stihl FS 110 4 mix. It runs great but will not start unless I prime it with gas down the carb. Brand new purge bulb seems to work perfect. Any ideas why this would be? If I have to start it this way I can live with it cause after it starts it runs and restarts great. Thanks again.

In the UK these machines (I'm adjusting a km85r at the moment for a friend) are £800-£850 new. If I needed to get those 2 diaphragms new it would cost me £22.90. A new carb would be £75, with a machine this expensive to buy, I would stick to original parts. If I can afford the machine, I can afford to buy the parts from Stihl.

I've just replaced the carb on my BG86c blower but i bought an OEM carb for £90. After watching this, i wish i had spent £20 on an aftermarket carb instead 😂

was curious on the engine having valves when the oiled fuel was mentioned, apparently it’s a 4 stroke that doesn’t have a sump and uses the fuel oil mixture like a 2 stroke, funky

I have a question about a Stihl blower. It’s a br400, we have changed the carburetor and the spark plug. We checked the compression. It’s all good but it only runs on starting fluid. What what you think the problem is.

I usually just buy a rebuild kit. It has all the parts I need and it costs less than an amazon carburetor.

I would always start with a carb clean first in the ultrasonic tank, some carb cleaner and then replace the diaphragms. This works in most cases. If that doesn't work due to an inaccessible blocked passage or one-way valve, then I'd replace the carb. Some of the clone carbs come with problems. I had one with a mashed spring in the metering area and another with a tip on one of the jets missing and another with a missing non-return valve. The only 100% guaranteed fix is to put a new, genuine carb on, but they are expensive.

After market is the best choice 👍

I would ev trued to replace the diaphragms in there or rebuild kit if 1 available,but for a fine machine like that,a new carb it deserves good job

I'd buy the after market frankly as well. Question though have you ever had one of the stihls leak out of the tank vent? Did you just replace the vent or is there a way to "fix" it?

Some of the aftermarket carbs are better quality than others, I try to replace the gaskets/diaphragms but if the carb pretty bad, then I’ll replace.

How long would the oem carb last vs aftermarket? If there's no difference is the right move.

Hi I do not know if there any differences within the carbs oem or aftermarket. I tried one aftermarket on my medium high expensive trimmer. It do not run perfectly and it is not going smooth. I tried to adjust it but it does not help. BUt it could be some other issues like the compression. For me I have to buy a special adapter for the compression-tester to fit into the spark-plug hole. The new OEM was really expensive and I do not think that would help to buy a new one. I would never buy a OEM because of the high price and it is the same construction or almost the same. Tried many hours to clean carbs. That for me does take a long time and does not work for me. Tried air compression, sonar cleaner, brake-cleaner etc etc...I gave up...For me I have to check the compression next step. Thanks for the interesting vid.

Im selective on the OEM replacement, like unless i really have to, i go for the aftermarket ones

If the carburetor has an accelerator pump it is usually best to replace the carb if it has a problem - the bore for the accelerator pump wears to an oval shape over time and begins to leak. There is no way to correct the wear in the carburetor body.

Great video.

A lot of carb issues , due to running dollar store 2 stroke oil, and letting your equipment sit , with fuel in it. Fuel turns to crap in 30 -40 days. Had the same stihl weedeater for 20 years, no issues, but o ly used Stihl 2 stroke oil. And when stored , treat the fuel with Sta-Bil. Bought myself a 99 R , third year , again no issues.

I agree with your choice. I mean people can flame on all they want. It's the same carb with the high end name on it. BOTH are 9-10 made from the same people. A $90.00 part with the same $0.25 gaskets and diaphragms... why even bother paying 6x the price? $15.00, 1 day free delivery ... new parts that are actually warranted.. fixes the problem, back to making $65 a property. It's a string trimmer not a Ferrari FXX or a spaceship. You made a choice to wazoo the customer wallet or be efficient. I'm about to score this same model for $80 tomorrow so $15 it is lol

A pinhole in that primer bulb/dome will indeed stop it. Not just from priming but from lifting fuel.

you did the right thing.

Just changed the carb and mine fires up now but cuts out quickly. I am missing the air filer cover and the screen that you cleaned at the beginning seems to be missing would this be a reason? I thought it might still ring but ring rough

The blockage maybe in the muffler; the whole muffler should be cleaned I soaked mine in degreaser and run the hose and the airline through it. On my troybilt engines the spark arrester screen can't be removed from the muffler, so I clean the whole muffler.

I've gotten comfortable with off brand carbs when the cost of the repair gets close to the value of the equipment. OEM carbs are insanely high on a lot of stuff I've come across and rarely do I have any issues with the off brand ones.

What do you think about stihl ultra oil they make you run for warranty? I like echo red armor.

The fuel looked clear , I gather you had it premixed though? Carb: I tend to weigh the value, $20 for a carb…done! It’s not cheap, it’s just not wasteful. The carbon always builds up, Good repair!

Yes

Good fresh fuel w quality oil, ethanol free fuel is best. End of season use Trufuel, Motomix or good canned fuel. Same w snowblower. Mowers use the 4 cycle Trufuel. Your carbs will thank you.

Smart decision.

Ive never been able to starr my brand new FS 91 R trimmer and I bought the pre mixed fuel that Ace sells you so you can get the extended warranty. Should I just make a warranty claim?

People just don’t know how to maintain or store equipment from one season to another. They are just to busy to do such mundane stuff, like storing their equipment properly. If it fails to start nex spring they will buy a new one. Every fall I set aside a day to put certain outdoor equipment in storage condition. I crank them up and let them warm up for five minutes. I then pour out all the gas, recrank them and let them idle until they stop for lack of gas. If they have a primer bulb I press it until it is empty while it is idling. I don’t want to leave any gas in the unit when I am through. I then wipe the off with a slightly oily shop rag and hang them up in my shop by their cutter head until next spring.

Mine cranks and idles fine but won’t stay running when you squeeze the trigger unless you keep the choke on. Then it takes gas and runs……. Gave local mechanic fits last year and back to same things