Thanks Bill. Never considered up pressure on guide blocks could be an issue. Will keep an eye on that.
@Woodburner100Ай бұрын
I think I’d gusset the support bracket on the left (drive) side. If you just take it off and weld in some gussets it won’t bend or flex. Those nylon guide bushings look like they’ll wear all right. I run a Woodmizer LT 40 hydraulic and the blade guide runs on rollers with what resemble very narrow v-pulleys with square bar in them. They can be finnicky as well but they at least have bearings in them. Maybe you can modify yours to run on roller bearings or something. As far as blades breaking, I usually get 3 or 4 sharpenings out of a blade and then they’ll break. I think it’s work-hardening. My old grinding system won’t get right through the gullet like the new CBN wheels do so maybe that’s part of it although I’ve heard other people say that they don’t get much more even with the gullet ground out to get rid of cracks. I think maybe your mill runs larger diameter blade wheels so I think that would help if it’s a work-hardening issue. Milling is a bunch of work but it’s rewarding in many ways as you say. It can be a hobby that pays its own way and sometimes much better.
@justinrussell760Ай бұрын
If I had the money I would have a woodmizer or a Cooks. There are many quirks with these Norwood machines, You get what you pay for, affordable but with issues.
@Woodburner100Ай бұрын
I run a Woodmizer LT40 hydraulic and they’re a good mill but they too have their own quirks as I think every brand does. My neighbour has a Norwood and he just has different quirks.
@williamprophett9148Ай бұрын
Well, my HD36v2 with full hydraulics is more expensive than a fully hydraulic LT35. So, this isn't a "cheap mill." It cost 15K in manual form, and the hydraulics are another 15k. This isn't a "Woodland Mills."
@justinrussell760Ай бұрын
@@williamprophett9148 I know I have the same machine and all the design flaws are the same with them all