So, the API and automakers are really worried about the zinc and phosphorus because of their pocketbooks. They are not concerned about the benefits that zinc and phosphorus give you added to motor oil. They are afraid that they might have to pay out for a warrantied catalytic convertor if a little zinc or phosphorus helps give it an early death. It all comes down to dollars.

Thank you for not calling Group III base stocks synthetic and for covering the API zinc requirements.

Thank you so so much and merry Christmas to you and the team from Australia

Excellent info. Your bravery on approaching this subject is noted. I will be switching to the 8100 and have 2 mailers standing by for analysis when the time comes. Cheers!

You guys are doing great stuff 👏👏👏

great professional info, thanks

Best oil video I've seen on KZfaq.

Great information video! Have you ever noticed when a oil lab tec takes a oil sample form a new bottle for testing he shakes it first? Why....most of the additives have settled to the bottom of the container, especially if on the shelf for any length of time. I always shake every container before pouring into any engine. Thanks

Extremely helpful and great information. I was just watching some of Lake Speed Jr's videos too. 👍

great video... I only run 8100 5w-40...

Ahhh man love this topic all I tell people is whatever floats your boat buy whatever makes you happy. Ill just keep doin my regular oil changes at 3k regardless if it's synthetic or not trust it does wonders

Great video. I would add that HTHS is likely the most important spec for any oil. Closely followed by Viscosity Index, KV100 And KV40, then TBN.

Excellent explanation of a confusing issue... re the catalytic converter problem.

ENEOS Sustina have group VI synthetic base. Their viscosity super stable, especially easy to know the different with Valvoline Synpower I used before in winter. My car operate like the engine already at operating temperature but temp gauge still at all the way down C.

Thank you.

I prefer using redline in spring/summer, and Motul in Winter, due to the flow and thickness. They r also easy to get in my area

When you see a car with a Gran turismo sticker on it, you know that you are in the righ place for a review.

I thought I knew something about synthetic oil before viewing this video…the knowledge of what different oil manufacturers are making as far as group III, IV and V base stocks and what really is the highest quality is explained succinctly in this video. My approach and what to really focus on when choosing an engine oil has been forever changed for the better. What do you think of the base stocks made from natural gas and how do they compare to PAO or Ester based stocks?

Having used redline, on a long run 7-8k miles, oil will come out great looking after the 3rd change. 1st it looks like it took all the accumulated shite, 2nd looks a lot better, 3rd it comes out clean and after that is the same over and over again.

Rotella 5w40 t6 from Walmart has 1500ppm zinc and phosphorus and boron as well and reasonably priced. Harley Davidson 20w50, honestly some of the best oil IV ever seen expensive but my dad had a case and I did an oil change in my Subaru. Instant difference and after 5k miles looked brand new. Drained it out of the SUbie and dumped it straight into the tractor. And doing research has the highest content of zink, phosphorus and boron. Best 50 weight oil on the market.

Great info I needed to see this.

You guys should check out the BG 5/30 full synthetic. I use that and their MOA110 and don't experience nearly as much oil consumption or blow by as I did with other oils in my MY8-14 sti. (mild build, track days every other month or so)

You are absolutely right, for me, AMSOIL Signature Series

Motul 8100 line are almost all HC group 3 and somes examples have a bit of PAO... Not a bad oil but nothing superb too, if you want a true synthetic RedLine and Amsoil (not euro version) they have more than 50% of PAO or Ester. The 300v is a ester oil but nothing compare to RL.

Interesting..in my neck of the woods zinc was removed from all engine oils with the exception of Diesel oil. So if you need zinc for whatever reason, you just bought diesel oil. Now after a bit of lobbying from owners of vintage and veteran cars we now have Synthetic engine oil that is labelled "Full Zinc anti-wear additive package" .Although there is nowhere on the bottle or on their web site that tell you what percentage of zinc = full zinc.

Schaeffer now offers mid and full saps oil. Its in their 8000 series oils. Fyi

whats the diff between red line euro & full synth red line? I have a vintage 2.5 Turbo dodge with flat tappet engine. rebuilt with 6K mi on it. getting a lil more oil dilution than im comfy with.... (nothing obviously wrong with engine bw). have been using Mobil 1 but as you say API influence may not work for my situation (no cat here too). maybe time to switch to higher level zinc oil...

What about carrier oils and additives? Are these pure,100% synthetic oils with no petroleum whatsoever?

Motul 8100 x cess full saps 5w40 are group 3 or 4 ???

Amsoil, Redline and Motul are just about the best oils available but are pricey.

I noticed that Amsoil wasn't included along with these top shelf oils. Maybe because it is inferior to the brands featured in this video?

True Racing Oils have little or no detergents because it doesn't see lots of miles or time. Instead, replace the detergents with more oil.

Thank you Jon for every effort you make. What oil do you suggest for longer duration and maximum protection for our VA STIs?

Hey I was looking at the Motul stuff and was wonder what the main difference is between the Eco and the X-cess was. I have a 19 STI and it burns the oem oil like mad, but doesn’t burn better oils I’ve tried (royal purple, ams oil) I change every 3000 so oil life isn’t my concern

What about oils with low calcium to avoid low speed pre-ignition.

If you don't have a car like the one behind him, then using a Group 3,4,5 Synthetic over the other wont matter much. All because the phosphourous component of zinc is being reduced, doesn't mean its not being substituted with Moly or Boron. Like if you have a Group 5 Ester base oil, there is no point in having loads of Calcium detergent in it as they both clean. Esters are being surpassed by Alkylated Napthalene as it is a true Synthetic Group 5+ and does not compete with the anti wear additives. PAO is great but ends up getting loaded with mineral oil anyway just to mix the additives and detergents as it is a poor cleaner on its own.

This was a solid video. Really gets some new information out there on KZfaq. Since the FA20DIT has naturally occurring carbon build up on it's intake valves from its EGR system, would a low SAPS or high SAPS oil be the preferred choice? I've been using Eneos 5w30 for the time being, and am unsure if I should switch to an 8100 or say with Eneos.

I just want to know that if there are oils that are better why are they not readily available in stores

Good info. Oil groups are new to me. What are your thought. on Liqui Moly 5-40 and MOS2 additive for pro-tuned subaru motors?

My Hemi loves redline

what are your thoughts on running motul 300v 5w-40 or 5w30 on a stock block ej205 that sees hard use occasionaly? what change intervals would you suggest for it? used to run motul 8100 with change intervals of 3.5k miles

I’ve been using Motul 300V Competition 5w-40 in my 95 e36 m3 for over two years now. That includes track days and daily driving!!! and I’ve been changing it regularly at about 5k mile intervals . Im about to send in my first oil sample to blackstone labs to see what analysis report we get back on the condition of the oil. They can’t tell me anything about my engine that I’m not already aware of lol but I’m still curious if I was running the ester oil for too many miles? or If it was loosing any wear protection properties? However, now it has come time for another oil change but that stuff is so expensive and money is tight so I’ve decided to switch to a more affordable product line such as, the 8100xcess or 8100 xmaxx or different brand entirely. My options are amsoil/Motul since they are in the same price bracket or going with stuff that can be found off the shelf at most stores and Walmarts. I was looking at the castrol European and the valveoline euro or the mobil 1 euro last night at my local Walmart. I didn’t even know valvoline had made a European formula

Is it safe to run 300v in a daily, and for how many miles. I assume it doesn't have as much additives for longevity of oil as normal oils have. I ask because sometimes I like to push it and want the best for my engine. Thank you and great video

What is the cost of the Motul 300V per quart?

Idemitsu or Motul for a turbo charged Subaru?

Great vid! I currently use Motul 8100 X-Clean + 5w30 on my G37. So far so good, but what's difference bw that and the Xcess and Eco that also come in 5w30?

I get Walmart/Costco 100% Synthetic Motor Oil for less than $15.00 on 5 USA quarts, do you have any similar price???

Can you testing TRiAX oil???

I live down under, where is the Shell, Castrol, Valvoline,Nulon etc in all of this, never heard of any of the brands shown here?

The question that im having the most trouble answering is which viscocity. 5w30 or 5w40? Many people use and recommend 5w40 however the vehicle was designed according to subaru for 5w30. Are people just throwing a 40wt in there to account for the higher hths due to all of these resource conserving oils out there? Does subaru just care aboit meeting epa and 40wt truly is better? To my knowledge it all depends on the tolerances etc.. too thick an oil cant properly lubricate an engine.. so far ive decided to stick with 5w30 oils that also have the higher hths ratings and increased zddp like redline. Currently using rp hps 5w30 which has the higher hths and zddp content while maintaining the viscocity in the manual. I tried motul xcess 5w40 and my vehicle DID NOT like it. It pulled timing and dropped my DAM immediately which had my tuner puzzled because thsts the oil they use and recommend the most lol.

Enjoy watching your videos. What do you think about Triax oils, such as the 0w40 or 5w30? I would love to see you do a video on these also.

What would you recommend for Subaru turbo cars? Thanks!

Motul 300v don't use more than 15% of ester. Red Line around 60% of ester.

I've been using shell Rotella T6 for the engine and shell spirax S6 for the drivetrain with no issues so far, holds up quite well for smell and sight test between change intervals. I've seen Rotella T6 all over the forums but didn't hear any mention of it in the video. Any personal thoughts on it for long time use?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is synthesised from natural gas/methane. What group is that.

Driven is PAO, not Ester.

I am using 5w40 MOTUL 8100xCase 💯% Synthetic On 2009 Honda City ivtec From INDIA This Oil Is Best Or Not ???

redline oil is all I use

What is your name man?

guess AMS OIL wasn't good enough to be included :/

I use the amsoil euro 0w40 full saps Wondering about the group they are in ? My guess will be 4 since it says 100% and equals to the same motul ll01 that its there.

Add now Ravenol from Germany and Extreme GTI VR2 from Rusia. Check and ull see what im talking about 👍

There is no such thing as a synthetic oil. It’s a sales pitch. It is better because the synthetic oil that’s just mineral oil, is filtered so all the oil particles are the same size. This allows for way better lubrication. Regular oil has many different particle sizes and makes it not as consistent for oiling. It’s like riding on a sheet of plywood on golf balls for synthetic oil. And regular oil is like throwing some base balls in their and expecting to roll over them smoothly. All base oil is the same comes from the same place. It’s the small differences in additives that change the brand. Most good oils have boron in it and that helps zink and ohesphorusbwork better

schaeffer all around, best oil out there

Dont sleep on amsoil. 100% synthetic base and additives

9:35 An oil analysis every 1000 miles? Spend a dollar to save a dime. Helpful advise.

Schaeffer's Racing Oil FTW!!!!!

When running e85 what oil would be the best to use?

Is 8100 x - cess 100% synthetic like amsoil

Redline oil!!!!!

MPT 30K all the way

Live in US and never heard of any of the brands shown here.... talk about 100% syn sold everywhere in US. .... sorry ... I do know about Red Line..

AMSOIL

Compare the german highest quality, the USA mineral oil Group 3 (HC), they're call Synthetic but you can not say in Germany. If you using Top fuel , they 're pure additive. not the using real world on the road. The USA maker avoid using Ester cause they can not competitive prices and cost so they add the zinc additive for get low cost, high margin but bad evironment, they don't care.👎🏻

Schaeffer oil is the best in the world!

Why should I have to pay a lab to tell me what is in the oil that I am purchasing.? Just like all the ingredients are in the food that we buy to eat, all oil that we purchase should also have all the ingredients that are in that oil we buy to use in our engine, including the base stock it is made from!

Royal purple is a scam. Purple water.