(not so) Simple collet blocks

  Рет қаралды 4,525

Michel Uphoff

Michel Uphoff

Күн бұрын

I thought I had a fairly simple job making two precision collet blocks. But it turned out not to be that simple, bad luck paid a visit..
Yes, I checked the levelness of the lathe before adjusting that tailstock.
Oops... at 6:54 I wrote left and that's not right. It should be right, but it's wrong.
(Anyway, the other side..)

Пікірлер: 21
@homemadetools
@homemadetools 2 жыл бұрын
Nice job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
@rodbutler9864
@rodbutler9864 2 жыл бұрын
Some neat hand scraping on that surface plate. I find myself looking all around the scene in your videos. Lots of interesting extra information.
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff 2 жыл бұрын
Actually, I checked the straightness and flatness of the ways of the prism with the ways of the lathe. Hope you find something useful in my movie.
@YooProjects
@YooProjects 2 жыл бұрын
Fantastic project mate 👍
@jimsvideos7201
@jimsvideos7201 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for showing your process; I bought some cheap imported collet blocks and now I'm curious (and able) to inspoect and probably improve them.
@jimsvideos7201
@jimsvideos7201 2 жыл бұрын
I enjoy your taste in music too.
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@bambukouk
@bambukouk 2 жыл бұрын
enjoyed the music 😉
@HansMouthaan
@HansMouthaan Жыл бұрын
Hi Michel, it all depends on the accuracy of the collet you use for this action, don`t you think? By the way, a friend of Job.
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff Жыл бұрын
Yes, the accuracy of the collets used is of course very important. Actually I had to use a few different diameters (turning, measuring), so errors could accumulate. But the runout is within 0,02 mm for the collets I used until now.
@jobkneppers
@jobkneppers Жыл бұрын
Michel, I think your sreaming tooling has to with "some" rigidity" issues. E.g. it's a small, flexible, machine, the stick out for the small boring bars is long and they flex below center height into not ideal cutting conditions. I also encounter this on a bigger machine but have found some tricks to reduce it or even get rid of it. Try to find boring bars with carbide shanks. They cost more (I paid 250 euro for a set of 3). Start with the tip of the boring bar a hair above center height, try lowering your spindle speed with the same d.o.c. (sometimes resonance is an issue), use a good cutting oil like Motorex (not affiliated by any means, just a happy customer), sharpen your insert with a diamond stone, and last but not least decrease your depth of cut in combination with a lower cutting speed. You should get better result with a combination of these actions. Maybe this helps. All the best, Job (ps, holding the grinder with a split clamping device? More rigid, no marring of the tool? ps2; Misalignment of the headstock is common for lathes. I correct the difference in diameter by displacing the headstock from the centerline according to a bigger or smaller end on the part. Bigger? The headstock should be moved half the error towards you so it cuts more to the end. Much easier than going for the theoretic ideal center of the machine. In the beginning start with an indicator in a collet in the spindle and indicate the pinole to the center for common work like drilling. Centricator is ideal for this...) Looking further I think your tailstock isn't adjustable. A movable center could do the same trick. They're sold as a kit and maybe as a complete item. The morse taper is not the ideal support to. It still can hinge under load. A tight plug with a center hole would give you more support)
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff Жыл бұрын
Thank you for your comments. I'm sure a better boring bar, less d.o.c, correct spindle speed and a good cutting oil all wil help to reduce that noise and aid to a better surface finish, but I don't think this was the real issue here. The hexagonal block cut like a charm, as other more demanding inner turning jobs did. The steel for the square block had just a very poor machinability. Unfortunately the tailstock of my lathe is not radially adjustable, so I had to solve the problem the way I did. That indicator in a collet or the chuck is a nice idea. Way quicker than the way I did it.
@anthonycrimin1600
@anthonycrimin1600 Жыл бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff Hi Michel, I have the same lathe so I really like all your improvements. However, is the Hex and square block both the same grades of steel - is it possible that the hex block was "softer" ?
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff Жыл бұрын
@@anthonycrimin1600 The hex blok was made of free cutting carbon steel. The square was made of some unknown type of steel, maybe a kind of structural steel.
@HanstheTraffer
@HanstheTraffer 2 жыл бұрын
I don't even use the lock on the tailstock because of that. Theoretically it can be adjusted but my cheapo pulls on the spline and changes center so I just crank it with the wheel and leave it at that.
@johnlambo135
@johnlambo135 9 ай бұрын
Dag Michel heb je de slijpspil zelf gemaakt ?? Bij 5,15 minuut. Dankjewel
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff 9 ай бұрын
Ja, dat klopt
@johnlambo135
@johnlambo135 9 ай бұрын
@@Michel-Uphoff Ongelofelijk .Je bent wel errug handig. Is hier ook een film van hoe je dit gemaakt heb? Of mis ik iets? Dankjewel. echt genieten om naar al je werk te kijken !!!!!
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff 9 ай бұрын
@@johnlambo135 Nee, geen video. Dat gereedschap heb ik drie jaar geleden gemaakt, toen ik nog niets opnam.
@SergeiPetrov
@SergeiPetrov Жыл бұрын
Why not use a press fit?
@Michel-Uphoff
@Michel-Uphoff Жыл бұрын
I have one collet holder, and two blocks (square and hex)
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