Thank you for the video. Very helpful and well done. You are a natural teacher.

A big thanks to you for sharing. You've sold me on Kato Unitrack. Looks like THE way to go. I just bought my first packages of it and think I'll be much happier with this than "old school" cork roadbed and flex track like I've used most of my life,

Roy great tutorial, I am currently almost done ballasting. Great tips I have used this method combined with the more traditional ballasting methods. Thanks for sharing.

Roy loved the detail in your instructions in ballasting. Thanks. Dean from Minnesota

Hey Roy great tips and I find your voice soothing

Your talent and patience result in a great looking layout.

Hello Roy, writing a Blog on this very subject here in the UK. Your video was very informative and helpful, thanks for posting.

I love number 9❤! Thanks for sharing Roy.

Well done sir :)

I'm glad I saved this video now that I've started ballasting.

Thank you for this technique. When I switch to Kato track, this video helped me out a ton. You've inspired me to start my own youtube channel! These are awesome videos!

Looks great! Seriously.. 👍

Beautiful!

I use basically the same procedure with Kato as well as Bachmann track. The only difference being that I generally use scenic cement rather than diluted white glue for the second and subsequent layers of ballast. Also on the Bachmann track I do apply ballast between the rails as the ties protrude further than the Kato. Be especially careful around turnouts to keep the scenic cement or diluted white glue from running inside the turnout mechanism or you'll end up with a poorly operating turnout.

excellent work , my Husband has KATO HO track and will use your advice - thankyou so much for this

Thanks Roy.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance

Roy, I watched this video on applying ballast to your Kato Unitrack for a second time today. I did this specifically because I am planning to begin a ballasting project on my O-Scale layout which utilizes Lionel Fastrack. Since Lionel's Fastrack is similar in design to Kato N-Scale Unitrack your techniques should work very well for me. I too am not ballasting between the rails because I feel like that will just invite problems "down-the-road" and the intent of the project is to give my layout a neater, finished appearance. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to post these videos. I know how much production effort goes into making them possible. With warm regards, Larry W. Grant Dallas, Texas

My layout is Peco code 55 Flex Track but my Test layout I'm currently working on is half Kato. Not sure if I'm going to ballast the Kato or not as I may decide to replace it. In any case, I start the same way you have, applying white glue to the sides and sprinkling on ballast, letting it dry and vacuuming up loose stuff. I use a small handheld vacuum for that which lets me reclaim the loose ballast. Then I follow what Model Railroading does and ballast the centre which spills over to the edges. I take my time to get the centre no higher than tie height as well the edges and then use a foam brush to form my outsides. From there I use a mixture of 50% alcohol and water (or 10% alcohol and 90% water) to gently wet it all down (I use a syringe). From this point until dry, you can't touch the ballast, no attempts to form it or anything or you'll just get a gigantic mess. Anyway, after wetting it, I use Scenic Cement and give it a god soaking and let it dry. If I need more applications of ballast to get the shape I want I'll again apply it dry, form it, apply wet water and Scenic cement. When I like it, I take a piece of wood (1X2 that I've cut grooves in to fit over the track) and use it to clean off any ballast from the tops of the ties. The end of the piece of wood just reaches to the tie tops so running it back and forth it'll catch any high spots and clean them off. I go over the entire inside of the track and pick off any ballast on the inside web. Oh and at the start I sprayed all the track and sides with an air brush. Anyway, now that I've got it pretty much done, I take a wash that is mostly burnt sienna but a bit of black in there as well (water and alcohol), very dilute and dribble it down the middle of the track, high enough that it floods the sides of the track (I'm going to follow your suggestion and put a bit of white glue in next time). I also dribble that down the outside of the track as I want that rust look. For cleaning the track, I start with a short piece of 1X2 and rub the edge of it on the top of the track. Takes the paint off. Then follow with a bright boy, then vacuum up anything left, then a rag and commercial "track cleaner" or ATF. Finally, time to run trains.

Ballasting, wiring. It is all part of being able to do what I like to do, in the time frame I like. There are no deadlines (well, maybe some self imposed ones if you chose) so I can take 5 hours to do something the way I want it instead of only being able to allocate an hour and having to rush through it. On Saturday I built a couple of turnouts, on Sunday I plan to build a coupler more but decided to relax and do nothing (well, watch Magnum PI movies with the wife) I can build the turnouts some other time. That's my point, I get to do what I want, when I want. And, once I retire in a year and a I bit I should be able to chose even better.

Hi Roy, Thanks for the great videos and this tutorial. I am starting my first layout, ever, and will use Kato track. Please tell me about the ballast "height" issue. I will have sections of track which will be mostly bare, except for the track and ballast. This means I won't be able to conceal the out-of-scale height of the ballast which you suggest could be a problem. Can you give me any tips or suggestions on how to handle this, which do not include "add vegetation?" Thank you!

Roy, There are numerous videos as well as many of my modelling buddies that swear to NEVER use a bright boy on rail as it is abrasive and will inplant micro scratches into the rail heads that catch dirt and reduce conductivity. Bob S

Another great video! Thanks for the ballasting tips. When it came to painting the sides of your track, What were you able to do when you were paint your turnouts? Also, were you able to paint the insides of track and turnouts?

Great demonstration Roy.. Yes looks very time consuming with great results. Ron//

I did a small layout many years ago with Kato track. I definitely remember having issues trying to put ballast down the traditional way. I had glue flowing everywhere and ended up losing a few turnouts because of it. For my current layout I'm using ME Code 55 track but I think I will give this method a try when I reach that point. Yes it probably does take a little longer but I think you had much less issues in the end because you really are controlling the glue instead of just spraying it everywhere. ~Neil

Can you use acrylic paint instead?

Roy, can you say more about your decision to not put unglued ballast between the rails? Putting a light dusting, unglued, and swept to be level with the ties, seems like a useful additional visual element.

Great video. Clear and concise. Please tell me what brand and color your ballast is. (I can’t seem to find dark grey ballast.). Thanks very much.

hi Roy a dab of white vinegar on where you want to take off the glued down ballast works wonders, after 5 mins of applying the white vinegar the ballast comes of easily.

Thanks for the info. Actually it looks pretty good just painted. I think I'll just airbrush it and call it good.

Great video Roy. As always :) What do you use to stick your track to the board?

Roy, two questions: 1. Why latex and not acrylic for painting the track? 2. This video is 4 years old. Would you make any changes to this method? Thank you. Ken Florian

Kato. Nice smooth running. brilliant. However when going for realistic, the ballast bed is already bigger. Don't be afraid to use an airbrush and paint certain area's. Ballasting switch track's, nightmare begins. however bring the level of the terrain up so you reduce the area needed for ballast. " Gordan Ramsey of railroads"

I wish Kato made two types of track, their traditional track where the plastic roadbed is to the tops of ties and a track that is similar to Bachmann track where the entire tie is above the plastic roadbed just with kato's great quality.

Did you paint the roadbed and ties in between the rails too?

Does this also work with ballasted fleischmann n scale track?

What size curves are those on you eastern helix??

Roy was the track fasten d own before you started ballasting? If so what did you use to fasten down the track

What's the main reason that you use Kato Unitrack, Roy? Wouldn't it work out reasonably expensive on a large layout? I've been considering using a combination of Kato Unitrack (in Swamp/Marsh Areas, and where the Track needs to raised more), and Peco Set Track & Streamline: I'm using CODE 80.

I like this video, but I will tell you, ballasting is my #1 hated task to do. I'm pretty good at it, just hate doing it.

why dont you have a fred on the end of your consist?

And how do you feel about steam locomotives?

KAH-TOE!!!! Not CAT-TOE!

Saying Kato wrong.