Feces

Feces

PVC bows can be great.

Oh yeah, I made a pvc long bow, wrapped grip and all that, back about 15-17 years ago. Just got bored, wanted a bow, and knew some fletching/bowstring-knots.

TheLoneRideR sad lefty noises

@@Feeshyenjoyer Not sad just realistic lol.

have you sold your td4 already? How much?

Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".

HAHAHA yesss this post makes me feel 12 again

They're pretty much all equal. As long as they have the mounts that you need and come in the right draw weights, you'll find other bows are pretty much the same.

If you like the wooden traditional style, look into ILF-compatible takedown bows like the White Feather Lark from alternativess.com. Otherwise just go Olympic ILF. Many options there.

If I reach a point in my career where I feel on top of my game, that's when I'd be more likely to travel around to shoot at different events and clubs abroad.

My club is the largest one in Wales where I live (93 registered members) and we have just ONE compound shooter, and even he hasn't shot his compound at the club in nearly a year.

Lee Price cool. I actually shot a 18 meter 600 event Sunday night,here in Manitoba. 28 archers. 10 shooting recurve. 1 being a bare bow the rest target. 3 under 14. 2 over 60. the other 5 over 40. lol.mid life enthusiasts with dreams of target glory. :-P one guy kept taking pictures cause it's the most target recurve we have seen in one place at a time. was fun. here we are a minority. but growing. I shoot both target n traditional. see a lot more traditional archers. especially at 3d shoots.but still overwhelmingly, compound archers here.

At my club in the UK of about a dozen people who turn up on a typical training session who don't use the clubs own training bows (all recurve) Typically 2-3 shoot compound (mainly due to arthritis preventing them shooting recurve any more) 1 will be shooting English longbow, and 1 will have some form of of barebow hunting bow or similar, the rest will all be modern Olympic style recurve (including me)

The course only teaches you the basics of archery. It's nothing that you can't learn yourself. If all you want to do is shoot at a target, you don't need a club for that. A club provides the social environment for archers to come together, and in many cases provides the pathway to competitive archery should that be your thing. Many will also offer coaching for more advanced technique and form work, which is unlikely something you will discover on your own. It depends on what you want out of archery.

I'd probably err towards the 68".

I'd go with the 40lb sage then. If your stamina is only a couple-dozen shots, I don't think the 45lb Sage will be a good choice for a normal session.

oh and are metal arrow nocks a thing? Every plastic nock Ive used has broken after about 50 shots

Thanks

I've never seen metal nocks. Seems like a lot of weight and cost for a very small gain. Plastic nocks are cheap enough and I've never lost one unless one arrow strikes another. I can't see a metal nock surviving a hit, not without damaging the arrow shaft. Better to lose a nock.

Go with lower poundage, compound at full draw is only holding a percentage of the rated poundage and recurve is the full rated poundage, recurve poundage is measured at a 28 inch draw and I understand that rule of thumb is + 2 pound for every inch over the 28 inch - at 30 inch draw there's a potential that you will be holding + 4 pound over the rated draw weight . p.s. I have just switched from around 55 pound compound to 38 pound recurve, I could shoot a 72 arrow round with the compound easily, now I find that I struggle to maintain good form and technique for half that with the recurve.

You can get a nice recurve bow on eBay for $50-$150, Shakespeare, Bear, Ben Pearson, and many other brands.

Nope, as a beginner your skill level will not be able to get the difference the extra 600 bucks make, I know my skill isn't good enough to get any benefit! ( I payed £400 for my complete setup including arrows, stand, case, quiver etc and it's still way more than my skill level can make the most of ) I would say get a better riser if you can, paired with cheapish limbs, the riser will stay with you as you get better, the limbs probably won't

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ip-jndCjq97ecqc.html&lc

Practice I use the samic sage depends on your situation

I don't really need to advise on draw length, unless you shoot compound. And even then, you need a precise measurement, not a derived calculation from height.

It doesn't seem to be as widely stocked, but you can still get them here: archeryshop.com.au/p/9050363/win-and-win-white-t-shirt.html

You'll find that archery is right for you.

How about javelin throwing, or basketball?

which recruve bow is good for me in the beginning

You might want to look through this video for a more comprehensive description: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d895kqeHmN6sonk.html

ammar ariff print it out on the computer lol

Stuff-pack a box VERY tightly with packing material/scraps of foam and cardboard, bubble wrap etc., then wrap with closed-cell foam on the front target face, secure with duct tape or gaff-tape. Add contractor trash bags to entire target for weather resistance.

I'm not NUSensei but former pretty successful archer (NY state champion) and I would say this depends on your equipment. The most important thing is that your arrows are the proper length and matched in spine (stiffness) to your bow. You will first have to measure the length of your arrow and determine the type of arrowhead you are using as heavier tips make for a weaker spine. When measuring for your first arrows you might start a little long because you can always cut them shorter later, and if you want the option to put broadheads on them they need to be long enough to clear the back of the bow and probably your fingers. It also makes a difference whether you are hot gluing your tips in directly or gluing in screw inserts that allow you to switch between target, field, or broadhead points. Then depending on whether you are using aluminum or carbon arrows you need to use a chart that matches your actual draw weight measured (not just the draw weight marked on the bow), usually with a spring scale, length of arrow, and weight of tip, and the chart should tell you what spine you need. After you have your arrow the complexity of your bow tells you what should be adjusted. Plunger button, stabilizers, nock point on the string all have to match your bow, arrows and shooting style. Some bows even allow you to adjust the angles of the individual limbs. When shooting at a very close distance your arrows, even without fletching, should go in very straight. If NUSensei disagrees with any of this please differ to him as he knows more about the latest information. There are specialists in bow tuning, but until your style is well settled it may not be helpful to hre a specialist yet. Most bows will give perfectly good results with neutral settings, but most importent is getting the arrows right and getting plenty of them. If you don't have much money this is where I would spend it.

social3ngin33rin you could get a great bow for around 500

Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".

Many great antique bows on eBay and craigslist, just search for "recurve bow".