Man I wish all these videos were around 15 years ago. It would have saved me lots of headaches and fiddling.

I go through and rewatch all your videos over the year and catch new things everytime as I learn more. I just caught new things tonight that will change how I rig my boats. Thanks Zach for your efforts to put these videos together. You've created a massive resource for the community.

cheers to the self bailg days...

Cams straps did not exist when I started, so we used tubular hoopie. I tied a figure 8 or bowline to make a small loop in the end of 12 ft sections that I could girth onto the frame or a D ring. You can get a lot more tension if you interconnect your webbing and use a vector pull like technique to tension it. I used "triangles" a lot to keep things tight and in place and to add more tension to my straps. We used to make our own "spider web" gear lofts to keep the gear off the bottom of bucket boat floors by weaving the webbing onto d rings and the frame at the put in. I like to get my webbing ties wet first for max tension. Now I buy the "fatty" 1 1/2" straps for important stuff, like frames, heavy coolers & boxes. I have never liked the loop straps as they are hard to get tight. I girth hitch pairs of straps to frame for coolers and boxes and adjust the location of the buckle to hang just over the edge of cooler lid so it is out of my way and accessible and it provides a 2:1 mechanical advantage over the loop straps. For the spare, I like blade forward and rig a loop with a short strap around the blade about 18" back from the oar tip that remains "fixed. Then I use a 2 ft strap girth hitched to the frame that wraps around the oar just behind the stopper, so it will not get loose. Then if I need it, I just open the rear cam to release the oar and grab the handle, slip it back out of the front loop and in a micro second, I have the spare into my oarlock. Time matters and no need to be trying to undo 2 cams at once and risk losing the spare in big water or rocky shallows. I use a beaver tail to keep the load off the floor and the weight on the tubes. Heavy items towards center of boat and light items at the tail for quick turning. I like my weight 60/ 40 back to front for back ferry and downstream ferry moves. Or 50/50 for shallow technical rivers. Tie off loose straps ends for safety. I see everyone using those rigging nets and bags these days, but I see many gaps for things to slip out and a ton of wasted space as they are not compressed like you can do with straps. I like to clip a throwbag onto base of each oar tower so always handy, and if boat is upside down, I know exactly where to find it for a flip line. I like to put the knot of the throwbag end loop inside the bag, then tighten the cord so the loop does not come out in a flip and also thread the short strap with the release buckle through the loop to also help keep the rope inside the bag. These are just my personal preferences, many ways to rig a boat and they all work if you do it so you don't loose or damage gear or create a safety hazard. I like your red ECHO drybag, I worked for them in Salmon in 81 and 97, lots of memories.

Super useful. Thanks for doing the video 🙌🏼

Great vid Zach. Lots of days rigging a raft here and still picked up some tips.

This video like all the others of yours I've watched is just so full of good and helpful information. Thanks!

I double loop my spare oar strap too, so when/if I need the oar, I don't accidentally lose the strap in the river.

Outstanding and informative video. Thanks Zack

Thanks so much for this video!!

Dude.... Thanks... Much appreciated.

helped me ....

These videos really help with the no permit blues 😢😂

Great vidz zack! I use to put the spare blade forward because I like the look, too. I realized, though that having the blade in back makes for an easier spare oar grab from the captain’s seat. With the blade in the back, you only have to release one cam. Reach to the side and release the cam next to the blade, then pull the handle out of the front strap. No need to climb up to the bow for that second strap.

Custom to my boat, overly engineered homemade "barny bag" ... best investment I have ever made in regards to rigging. One zipper and pull two straps (straps zig zigs to d-rings on both sides of the zipper every 8" to hold actual load) load secured. Now I can load boat faster than people can bring me bags to load.

Can you share some more info on the light green military boxes? Just found your channel, subscribed, and I’ve been enjoying all your videos! Keep up the great work!

Great video that is very helpful in planning our first overnight trip for our family of six. Do you use a beaver tail or anything in the stern of the boat to keep the bags off the floor?

What size are those ammo cans? 40mm cans are 8x17x14 ish but those look bigger

Great topic, and awesome video! Do you prefer steel frames to aluminum?

I like the multi 6 foot cam strap method on the stern bags. You ever see one of those pull apart? Perhaps in a wrap situation? Also, it looks like you have a heavy insulated cooler (Yeti style) on your boat there. I assume you have decided that the extra weight and reduced capacity (vs an Igloo Marine) is worth it for the added insulation? Have you done any shows on coolers?

Savage wilderness

I second your comment on the length of straps... no straps over 9' should exist!!!

I'd love to hear your thoughts on my boat which is a pelican bass raider i modified to row or drift. Movable oarlocks and cargo ties. But my concern in rivers is the hard plastic hull. It's actually fairly flexible but nothing like a raft. I thought about a frame but the floor works pretty well.

Hello there What kind of plywood and what size thickness did you use for your hatch cover also what did you treat it with🤙

Hey I was wondering if you had any suggestions for rigging propane tanks if you don’t have a drop bag hatch

What is your opinion on the everything bags or santa sacs for gear bags ?

Do you like nets over the bags? I've used them a few times and they are pretty diverse. A big enough net, folded in half can get 'perma rigged' and act like a sling. Meanwhile the second half can fold over the top of your gear, and get laced tight from D-ring to D-ring. It keeps weight off the floor and is easy to rig

The gear on the back of your boat? Do you have it directly on the floor? I have a 14ft rmr raft and I am debating if I should get something to raise the bags off the floor of my raft and put their weight on the tubes? I have a dropstich floor idk if that matters?

How do you recommend rigging water jugs and coolers, and the toilet or anything else that is rigid?

What are your thoughts on removing thwarts on a 16' Avon Pro bucket boat for more space? Mostly fishing trips Class I.II, & III.

What brand of cooler are you using here?

Why no nets?

Where did you get the large military lime green cans?

What's your opinion on using something like the Pacific River Bag for all the gear in the stern?

Just curious. Why not use a cargo bag/net rather than strap on bags?

What about the guitar and mandolin?! :)

Danger net? like a cargo net? What dangers do you perceive with these?

raft company rules: at least one guide to be called Zach. . .

First