Regarding setting the torque on those wire clamps, I would suggest that after you torque them the first time, wiggle/rotate the wires somewhat forcefully and and you'll find that the strands in the wire settle a little (like how the level of Corn Flakes drops if you shake the box a bit from side to side) and you can torque them again. I usually have to do this a couple of times before it's finally fully secure.
@chargeeverywhere2 жыл бұрын
Thanks. This is an excellent point!
@colinpovey29042 жыл бұрын
With 75 inch pounds, I doubt it's a problem. That is a LOT of force.
@chargeeverywhere2 жыл бұрын
It is a fair amount. The yoke-style wire clamps hold the wire very nicely too. Much better than a screw scrunched down on top.
@robbehr88062 жыл бұрын
@@chargeeverywhere , Wiggling the wires is a common technique called "exercising." I always exercise and retorque repeatedly, until I have two times with no screw movement.
@panchopantera82872 жыл бұрын
NEC 625.41 125% RULE CONTINOUS DUTY... 40AMPS X1.25=50 AMPS. NEC 625.54 ALL EVS GFCI PROTECTION . #8 AWG THHN 90C GOOD FOR 55 AMPS. TORQUE 75LB------8.8NM YOU WILL BE SAFE . This is for the NIMA 14-50 .
@gratzbuck9882 Жыл бұрын
As a retired Electrical Foreman I have these comments: 1. I totally agree with the upgrade to the Hubbell/Bryant receptacle. 2. I totally disagree with the down sizing of the circuit breaker. You stated at the beginning its normal for a EV charger to draw 40-amps for hours. Although you correctly charted the ampacity of your #8 THHN wire based on the terminals temperature rating. Please refer to NEC 210.20(A) it states that the overcurrent protection device rating shall not be less than 125% for a continuous load. ( i.e. 40-amp x 1.25 = 50-amp ) You DON'T load a 40-amp breaker to 40-amps 👎You had the right size breaker before. You should never load a breaker more than 80% ( i.e. 50-amp x .80 = 40-amp )
@rafaelcasalduc5820 Жыл бұрын
Good point! But in this specific case, the maximum current for the NEMA 14-50 adapter used by Tesla chargers is 32A X 1.5 = 40 Amp. He is GTG! Please let me know if I'm wrong.
@CoreyGemme Жыл бұрын
@@rafaelcasalduc5820 I think you meant 32 x 1.25 = 40 amp
@alfonso704 Жыл бұрын
Yessir you got it. I do service and number one mistake the handy man makes is undersized circuit. I’ve seen the EV charger melted…
@SP-wp4ti Жыл бұрын
@@rafaelcasalduc5820 you shouldn't have outlets that have higher rating than the breakers - the next person along could install a higher amperage charger and have issues. Breakers should always be the higher rating.
@Tithis Жыл бұрын
@@SP-wp4ti The NEC specifically lists 50 amp outlets as being okay to install on 40 amp circuits. I think this is because their arent any 40 amp outlets, but you'd probably want to at least label the outlet for the next person.
@toastymallows Жыл бұрын
At the end of the video you said that local electricians will know all the standards and what to use. I'm over here on my 2nd (!) melted NEMA 14-50 outlet because the electricians that installed it didn't use a "commercial" or "industrial" grade outlet. Thanks for helping to spread the word about this issue!
@schsch2390 Жыл бұрын
A friend had an electrician install a 30 amp 240 outlet in his basement for some power tools and they used the black + white for hot leads and the red for neutral, no 4th wire ground.
@whattheschmidt9 ай бұрын
@@schsch2390 must be a shotty handyman and not even an electrician is mess that one up...
@cjc97197 ай бұрын
@@schsch2390 No excuse for being lazy with the colors. That's likely all it was though. The red was being used as a ground wire, not neutral. A standard 3 wire 240V outlet/circuit is two hots and a ground. The more common 3-wire outlets is the standard setup for providing power to a basic mechanical device that runs on 240V, such as high voltage power tools. The 4th wire, the neutral, is used to create a circuit/plug that supplies both 120V and 240V to a connected device. This 4 wire dual voltage circuit is required by more advanced devices that use 120V computers or digital interfaces to control their 240V mechanical components (such as a modern clothes dryer with 120V electronics for user interface and programing and 240V heating element and drum spinning motor).
@tracynation28207 ай бұрын
Just tape the ends of the white wire red, or any color but white or green, and tape the ends of the red wire green, double check and retorque the connections, and there you go. 💙 T.E.N.
@GSP-763 ай бұрын
Did you get it changed to a Hubbell outlet? If so, how has it held up? Ive spoken to electricians and they don't think the issue is because of a cheap outlet but rather because of frequent disconnects which cause the connectors to expand and cause a short.
@Mike-01234 Жыл бұрын
Got one from Home Depot $11 worked great for over a year without melting. I used 6 AWG wire always want to go heavier on wire.
@802Garage9 ай бұрын
The heavier gauge wire will help act as a heat sink for the entire device.
@randalllewis4485 Жыл бұрын
I've watched a few videos on this subject and you are one of the few who torqued the connectors. My installation was extensive enough that a inspection from the utility was required, and I was impressed the inspector checked the torque on the connections. He mentioned that this was the very point where he fails many installations.
@802Garage9 ай бұрын
Regarding the Hubbell vs Bryant debate in the comments, they are identical. Neither are marked 75C on the actual device, so both have to be used as 60C rated receptacles, meaning the conductors feeding them have to be rated using the 60C column. Both say they have a maximum continuous operating temp of 75C in the spec PDF, but this is not the same as being rated for 75C. The manual that comes with both says that the conductor used must be rated in accordance with the 60C column. I just looked at my Hubbell manual, box, and receptacle as well as researched thoroughly online. If the Leviton is rated for 75C, that might be part of why they burn out so often. If they are being installed with 8 gauge wire, they are going to generate more heat, as the 6 gauge wire acts as a heat sink. Just thought I'd clear up any misinfo. The Hubbell and Bryant are both manufactured with superior quality to the Leviton and most other 50A receptacles. This does not mean they can use lighter gauge wire. In order to be a true 50A general use outlet, both will require 6 gauge copper wire and cannot use aluminum. There are exceptions for dedicated receptacles used for a single device such as a welder, but that's a more complex topic.
@ericdee6802 Жыл бұрын
When I installed my outlet, I used Amp/Tyco wire ferrules with Deoxit L260Dcp conductive grease. The wire ferrules were crimped to the same shape as the outlets connection point "diamond shape on point" this method kept the wire consolidated and allowed even pressure when the allen bolt was tightened.
@LeftthenRight7 ай бұрын
Thanks for putting out the video and starting the conversation. Thanks to the electricians for their advice too. Tesla's wall EVSE (wall charger) only draws 32A, but another unit might try to draw more. Telsa still recommends a 50 amp circuit with 6AWG wire: - Voltage: Single phase, 208-250 Volt AC supply, 60 Hertz - Circuit Breaker: 50 Amp recommended - Operating Current: 32 Amp (maximum continuous current) - Conductors: 6 AWG recommended, Copper Wire Only. Upsize wiring for installations over 150 feet - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter: Not required - Service Disconnect: Not required - Receptacle Recommendation: High quality, industrial grade receptacle
@pbm___0006 ай бұрын
Tesla wall charger can draw 40A - just like most (all?) of their cars since 2020. Their mobile charger max is 32A
@briangeorge3143 ай бұрын
There's 4 categories of chargers 1 (115 20 amp) 2 (220 80 amp) 3 (480 300 amp) 4 (1 mega 1200 amp) for the truck stop chargers when they come out
@tracynation28208 ай бұрын
Super. ALWAYS use the expensive name brand 50 ampere commercial receptacle, a metal well anchored 4/0 box and metal (2 kinds, one surface mount, one recessed mount.) cover plate, and a 50 ampere GFCI breaker, or the prefabricated GFCI outlet box and a standard 50 ampere breaker. Do use at least 6/3g or four six gauge copper wires (Larger is OK, especially for long runs.) if you don't know your areas electrical codes. (Note: THHN 6 gauge wire in conduit can have an 8 gauge ground, some 6/3g has an 8 gauge ground, and some codes allow the ground to be one or two gauges smaller than the conductors.) Make sure that you have four wires into your outlet or prefab box, even if it only requires three. (Old school.) ALWAYS add mineral oil or oxidation prevention grease to ALL connections and to the breaker, (ALL of the terminals or connections, including the breaker and plug prongs.) and always wiggle (Hard) the wires to the connections and retorque the fasteners at least twice. Think about putting a disconnection device beside the outlet so that you can turn the power off when you plug in or remove the plug, and lastly, get one of those rubber door mats and put it below the outlet. (And breaker box.) I have had to repair the smoldering remains of car charging outlets for years now, and sometimes it was a customer that installed it, but many times it was a licensed electrician who actually did a fine job but didn't know that a standard 14-50 receptacle from your local hardware store was inadequate for the job. (Mostly due to being plugged in and out again, while a stove outlet remains connected.) These procedures and precautions allow this Sparky to sleep very well at night. Stay safe. 💙 T.E.N.
@tedjohnson6410 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing this mistakes video. “It’s good to learn from your mistakes, but it’s even better to learn from someone else’s mistakes!”
@tarekyared4404 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for highlighting your mistakes so that we can learn. This knowledge will be extremely relevant in the next 10 years as EV's become more popular. I know a lot of people will attempt to install these outlets themselves to save money. A lot of DIY'ers think you can just torque the wires by feel with a regular screw driver like you can get away with for 15A receptacles for example.
@fredsasse9973 Жыл бұрын
Good video, thanks. I'm glad you covered proper torquing of fasteners. This is something that for MOST residential components is not required and as such many of us do-it-yourselvers don't know about.
@dennismaloney7241Ай бұрын
I test my outlet, charger, and cord during charging operations (hourly) in the summer in Phoenix, AZ, with a laser thermometer. The highest temperature at the receptacle was 115 degrees, the charger is generally 128 degrees, and the cord 113 degrees. The highest ambient temperature of the garage I've seen was 117 degrees (I didn't charge that day). The book says don't charge when the temperature exceeds 122 degrees. We own a Nissan Ariya, which has a built-in cooler for the battery, which does come on intermittently during charging during the summer but not in the winter.
@chargeeverywhereАй бұрын
Interesting. I’m guessing your outlet and charger are in the shade? Most chargers are black, which isn’t great for AZ.
@dennismaloney7241Ай бұрын
@@chargeeverywhereI said: "garage".
@chargeeverywhereАй бұрын
@@dennismaloney7241 Righto. My bad.
@JohnThomas-lq5qp2 жыл бұрын
A few years ago while at an IAEI continuing education class they told us that UL labs had samples of receptacles & can't remember if it included switches from all around the country. Approximately only 30 yo 40% were toquered properly. Remainder were close in either not toquered enough or too much. Was told excessive torque was just as bad as insufficient torque. Of the approximately 100 electricians at the class less then 10% even owned a torque wrench or torque driver.
@GROGU123 Жыл бұрын
Slight correction, those are poles not phases in your house. The poles are 240v across them with neutral tapped from the middle of the single phase transformer. Everything is on the same sinewave.
@tomnorman5461 Жыл бұрын
This is true, but the two "poles" (red & black) are 180 degrees out of phase from each other vs 3-phase power where they are 120 degrees out of phase from each other.
@GROGU123 Жыл бұрын
@@tomnorman5461 When voltage is measured across them, you get a single sine wave of 240v at 60hz. You could invert the polarity to achieve another sine wave 180 degrees out of phase. If you took a measurement with respect to ground at either pole you would get a very small voltage on the lower leg but but it would still be the same phase. If you looked at the top pole and neutral with respect to the lower leg, again your measurements would all be the same phase. The only way I can think to achieve 180 degrees out of phase is to use the neutral to the lower leg but wire the polarity backwards. But you would have two 120v signals 180 degrees out of phase with each other. I can’t think of any appliance or motor that wants that. Instead they want the voltage taken with respect to the lower pole to achieve 240v peak to peak.
@floorpizza8074 Жыл бұрын
@@tomnorman5461 When you add a sine wave of a certain phase (x) to another sine wave *of the same phase* (y) the sum is simply x + y = new voltage. In this case, each wave is 120 volts. So adding both poles together (think of it as putting them in "series") gives you 240 volts. The 120 volt outlets in your house only use one pole, so 120 volts. But @GROGU123 is correct: they are *NOT* 180 degrees out of phase. Your house has one sine wave (one phase) power running into it.
@david672orford11 ай бұрын
@@tomnorman5461You are correct, calling it two phases violates only tradition, it is not factually wrong. Electricians resist calling it two phases because 1) the two phases are derived from a single phase source, 2) there was a now obsolete system called two phase with the phases 90 degrees apart, 3) the loads are all single phase, and 4) a 180 degree phase shift is also a simple polarity reversal, so depending on how you analyze the circuit, you can miss the second phase.
@raygunsforronnie84710 ай бұрын
@@david672orford Correct. I've drawn a transformer secondary, putting in the center tap, and ask "how does the center tap achieve *polarity* reversal? Crickets, usually.
@ronknight1010 Жыл бұрын
Forget the outlet for a dedicated charger. Hard wire it. Every termination point is an added potential point of failure. Plus you'll save money on additional parts you don't need
@marksweeting24 Жыл бұрын
Good points. EV charger installs is all that I do now and getting to the point of only doing hardwire installs. My latest outlet, the only commercial grade I could find was a Hubbell at $164. Also needed to run the unused neutral, add another $35. Right now my AHJ does not require a gfci breaker but will in the future, add another $100.
@mbrick Жыл бұрын
His link in the description to Grainger has a $48 rebrand version of the Bryant 14-50R (exactly the same). The name brand Bryant on Grainger is $213. They have the same two options for 6-50R.
@JohnMark1313 Жыл бұрын
I just had an outlet installation on Friday. Went to Grainger and got a Bryant 9450 for $48 and change. The Hubbell was $213. Looked to be a real Bryant but still a pain to install. @@mbrick
@davidlindh7938 Жыл бұрын
It is a good practice with stranded wire to use bootlace ferrules on screw clamp type devices. It ensures better connections as the stranded wire will separate with the screw type connection.
@zweare1 Жыл бұрын
Hey Josh, I personally liked this video and it appears your new EV charging setup is safe. I read though several comments....holy crap, people really like to voice their opinion.... Anyway, thanks for doing this video, producing instructional videos are a ton of work, so thanks.
@mdlawrenceusa Жыл бұрын
Hi Josh, Thank you for making this wonderful video outlining the issues with outlet capacity, wire size torque values and installation process. Excellent quality and content. Also your viewers comments are excellent and helpful.
@jenko7012 жыл бұрын
It’s like a gfci on a freezer in your garage, nothing like coming home from work with a defrosted freezer because of a nuisance trip.
@abrahammc2125 Жыл бұрын
Yup, Stuff like that pisses me off. Nothing like a good only thermal trip breaker. The appliance manufactures have their own protections and design to standard trip breakers
@denali9449 Жыл бұрын
@@abrahammc2125 The GFCI protected outlets have nothing to do with the protection of appliances and everything to do with personnel protection. The code has no idea what you have plugged into that fridge / freezer outlet. And, for years the model code exempted single outlets from the GFCI requirements. Not a duplex outlet but a single 120 volt outlet.
@abrahammc2125 Жыл бұрын
@@denali9449 I am aware, but you are talking to someone who is aware of the risks. I do not live my life according to the code book for "safety". Rich people do not live by some set standard, they always live custom. I am no different.
@denali9449 Жыл бұрын
@@abrahammc2125 If you actually believe that appliance manufacturer's build in some kind of GFCI protection to trip a standard breaker then you deserve what you get. Hopefully all your corded power tools are of the double insulated type and you never have an issue.
@jstar10002 жыл бұрын
It originally was a 14-50 outlet with the tesla Mobil charger which only charges at a max 32 amps. I put the larger wire in and breaker knowing I would probably upgrade later which I did, I installed a Tesla wall charger which charges up to 48 amps max but you can control how many amps flow with the Tesla app. You can turn it down to 15 amps or up to 48 amps or anything in between. I turn it down just so its not pulling a ton of current when its really not needed. If I get home and will not leave till the next day which is more then 12 or so hours away typically, turning it down to 20 or 25 amps makes it charge over about a 5 to 8 hours window depending on how depleted the battery is that day. Charging at 48 amps is not needed so I don't do it. The wall charger recommends 6 gouge wire and a 60 amp breaker because overkill its a good thing. Less heat in a larger wire when pulling max amps.
@shockingguy Жыл бұрын
And your battery will last longer instead of dumping tons of amps into it all at once
@gextreme2381 Жыл бұрын
Why not just put the heavier, proper gauge wire in and be done with it?
@jstar1000 Жыл бұрын
@@gextreme2381 I did put in the proper gauge wire if your talking to me, not sure what your talking about.
@paulcrescenti55817 ай бұрын
If you have installed these high current outlets before, when you finally use a proper torque device you will realize you were probably not torquing these terminals enough in the past. As commenters have stated, torque, wiggle the wire and torque again is a good practice. Regular household 20A circuits do not have the torque worries that these high current circuits require. Additionally, choosing a high quality receptacle is also important. This outlet will have many plug-in and plug-out cycles. Great info in this video.
@LeeBergerMediaProd10 ай бұрын
For our Tesla model Y we had an electrician install the NEMA 14-50 outlet but it was cheap and overheated. Teslas deal with this by lowering the charging current. Looking at the cost of a good 14-50 and the GFI breaker I plunked down the $400 for the dedicated wall charger.
@RussShawTV5 ай бұрын
I was a Ford tech. Learned some stuff about residential charging from them. One of the first things I was shown was burnt houses and cars and garages. Not necessarily because the tech did it wrong. But because this is an emerging technology. I don’t ever install NEMA plugs for EV chargers at all. And honestly, that technology is already outdated in my opinion. I only install the Tesla Gen 3 charger. Tesla has been doing it longer has made more mistakes and learned from them. I looked at the Rivian chargers too, and they are not great wouldn’t take on the liability myself. But Tesla has made a universal charger for the GEN three I recommend it over the Rivian truck charger any day.
@wink5287 ай бұрын
I repurposed a 50 amp GFCI line from a former hot tub to power my 30 amp Enel X Juice Box. I replace the GFCI breaker with a regular one because the instructions said I should, but for fun I used the GFCI breaker for 1 week to see if it caused any issues. 1 rain storm and 1 snow storm happened that week (go figure, December in central PA). The outlet is in a sealed, locked box. I had no issues, but changed the breaker anyway.I have never unplugged it, but without a GFCI on an outdoor outlet, you can bet I'll be shutting off the breaker if I ever do unplug it.
@TheWwong2 жыл бұрын
Very good information presented, but please ALWAYS verify that the circuit is dead at the receptacle even though the breaker is turned off. Turning off the wrong breaker happens more often than you think! I am a Master Electrician..........don't ask me how I know.
@mckenziekeith7434 Жыл бұрын
Some electricians trip the breaker by shorting the wires with a screwdriver. That way you always get the right one. Not that I am recommending it.
@brianhay55502 жыл бұрын
Best video of the installation that I’ve seen and you really nailed all the important points!
@carlosquintana16572 жыл бұрын
Very good video and a follow up to your original video. I just ordered the same Bryant outlet from Grainger and will be doing the install soon. I am in CA, my house is new and the contractor installed a breaker for the EV charger. Thank you for posting.
@chargeeverywhere2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Carlos! Good luck on your install!
@trex2092 Жыл бұрын
For all the problems you mentioned at the beginning I hard wired my Tesla Wall Connector with NO GFCI, I don't trust them for this application and went ahead and used 6 AWG. See the Sandy Munroe segment on the dangers of 14-50 receptacles, they melt, go ahead and do the job right the first time with a wall connector.
@KevinCoop1 Жыл бұрын
Copper or aluminum?
@trex20927 ай бұрын
@@KevinCoop1 COPPER
@dandyparents5738 Жыл бұрын
One thing I would note is that the Ambient Temperature Correction factors in NEC does not get enough attention and tests have shown the significance of conductor heat during sustained high current periods. I would argue this also applies to the receptacle as well. Consider that over the last 10 years the average high temperature in 22 of the 50 states is over 87F, then at the very least a correction factor of .91 should be applied in addition to the continues current draw derating of 125%. This would mean for a load of 40 amps the circuit would need to be sized to support 55 amps. Inversely if you consider the LIMFAC of the NEMA 14-50 being 50 AMP max, then no more than 36 Amps of load should be placed on that circuit. Once ambient temperature goes up that max current load drops to 32 Amps or lower. One other potential recommendation for NEC updates is to also derate an EV specific circuit by 130% instead of 125% considering the potential for much longer sustained current draw.
@jeremiahnewsom7775 Жыл бұрын
You are correct, chargers come in 32amp and 48amp not 50amp. So 32amp charger still uses 50amp or 40amp recep. and wire good for at least 40amps. 48amp charger @125% is 60, so 6awg wire good for 65amps, 60amp breaker, and harwired.
@louisvillaescusa Жыл бұрын
It's not true that those outlets aren't designed for continuous 50A power draw. They are or else they wouldn't have gotten the UL approval. But that means that the install needs to be done 100% correctly. I have found that most connector outlets overheat because the screws weren't tightened properly or the wrong wire was used. A good way to tell if you have a problem is to feel the connector under a full load. If it's getting hot, there is a problem. The thing about daily charging is that you might be connecting and disconnecting every day and some cheap connectors start to wear out after too many connections and disconnections. That's probably why more EV outlets melt down. You plug the dryer in once and the plug stays put until the dryer dies and is replaced. And, yes, you can solve that problem by going with a better connector.
@johnn.freisen395210 ай бұрын
I applaud you for trying to correct your mistakes. 1. the NEC 110.14C does state that circuits under a 100 amps in a dwelling unit shall use the 60° column. You saying that even with 90° wire and a 75° breaker, you kinda met code was in error. 2. The basic 14 -50 plug is a non continuous duty, which is rated for less than 3 hours use at a time.. EV charging requires a heavy duty, continuous duty rated receptacle. Which is for more than 3 hours use, as per code. 3. That 14-50 was not originally for EV or the stove(10-50R on 40amp breaker was stove). 14-50R was designed for RV's and they are so readily available EV's found it easier to use. Even though the EV doesn't need the neutral. When I consulted with Tesla. The 6-50R was proper for EV use, but not widely used. It's easier for a customer to put in a 14 -50R and have a multi-use for it. 4. Please remember, there are several states around the country that homeowners are not allowed to do their own electrical work, Texas being one. Keep up the videos. We all learn somehow.
@JimBronsonАй бұрын
False. You can do your own electrical work in Texas. Mine passed inspection even, when I remodeled a house I used to own down to the studs. Rewired the whole house.
@PaulSteMarie7 ай бұрын
Hubbell products have always been top $$$, I bought a Hubbell NEMA 14-30P for my lathe in 2016 and it was $55 at the time. One thing that i discovered later is that in the larger sizes, the twist-lock versions, _e.g._ an L14-30P, are considerably cheaper.
@taylorlightfoot2 жыл бұрын
Also consider voltage drop potentially requiring the upsizing of wire size in addition to those other derating factors.
@allenshepard79922 жыл бұрын
I was going to ask what the voltage under charging conditions was. The limit is 3% per branch and 5% total. 210.??? in the NEC
@YaksAttack Жыл бұрын
@@allenshepard7992 NEC does not rule on voltage drop, it only makes the suggestion of 3% for a feeder or branch circuit, or 5% total for both.
@KevinCoop1 Жыл бұрын
@@YaksAttack You are totally correct! There are two reasons for voltage drop concerns. Do you know both of them? Just a quick pop quiz. 😊
@GerardPinzone Жыл бұрын
Great information, especially the part about GFCI. One more tip for NEMA 14-50: Spray Deoxit DN5 into the outlet. It's a contact cleaner and lubricant. It will make plugging/unplugging much easier and will prolong the life of the outlet. You can use Deoxit D5, but you have to cut the power before using it.
@SovereignTroll Жыл бұрын
A lube is good idea as these connectors not rated for constant plug/ unplug use ordinarily.
@vernoncooke7348 Жыл бұрын
Sometimes I can’t explain something very well but it has to with the amount of current you can put through a wire. Under one circumstance you can put say 20 amps through a number 12 wire, another only 10 or 12 amps without overheating. One of the circumstance is the ambient air temperature but also if there is anything else heating the conduit such as sunlight exposure or whether there are a whole mess of wires in a small conduit, all carrying a lot of amps. I’ve been fooling around with car alternators lately and on the rotor coil, it does not take that many amps for the coil to overheat if it has been running a long time. The wire in an electromagnet or transformer is all packed together and thus harder for the heat to escape. I think sometimes you got to use your own head to determine what wire size you should and not just go by what someone else says.
@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403 Жыл бұрын
It's not a matter of "going by what someone else says". There are standards and if you follow them, you greatly reduce the chance of problems. One other factor you didn't mention is length of wire. If you have a long wire run, standards are set for when you need to upsize as well.
@sophiegrisom2 ай бұрын
Best to coat the wire ends with anti-ox before clamping in the outlet. It is requisite for aluminum wire, but also helps with copper wire. Some appliances like refrigerators trip GFCI breakers. Latest-greatest is AFCI-GFCI "combined" breakers. Some Eaton models suffered so many false trips that they have a stealth recall to replace them for free.
@Stukreit Жыл бұрын
Before going near terminal wires, ALWAYS test for voltage, even after flipping the breaker. ALWAYS.
@250zxSkeeter10 ай бұрын
You should always test for voltage before working on a circuit.... never assume it is dead because it could have been mislabeled, etc. and could be deadly.
@tyroneallen69702 жыл бұрын
I found when replacing nema 14-50 outlets they're all rated to carry 50 amps! The Hubble's and Bryant's will burn too if they're smashed into a shallow electrical box! All the conductors need to be completely recessed into the terminals no frayed wires!
@jfbeam2 жыл бұрын
What causes them to burn is not necessarily the load, but poor contact with the plug. I've seen this hundreds of times -- RV parks, and race tracks. (and as it would happen, a Tesla did set one on fire at Road Atlanta a few years ago. We still give him grief about that.) The AC in my RV cooked one of the plugs on one of our 8AWG extension cords because they have shit contacts in them.)
@BloodyKnives66 Жыл бұрын
The cheaper outlets have a very poor connection for the load, the industrial outlet has a solid connection. That's the main difference really
@genjaxx14632 жыл бұрын
Guys like you that make these videos keep me in business.Thank You.
@Jolajo-ms3cl2 жыл бұрын
You saw his video and commented as well which keeps him in business, so thank you on his behalf.
@genjaxx14632 жыл бұрын
@@Jolajo-ms3cl He gets fractions of a penny per view on his video.I bill around $75/hr when I do service calls to fix issues from people that watch guys like this.Learn to math.
@BloodyKnives66 Жыл бұрын
Where I live getting a licensed electrician can take a month or two. Guys like him keep the lights on when electricians are to lazy to pick up a phone.
@gan1440 Жыл бұрын
@@BloodyKnives66 😂😂 doesn’t do much good after your house in ashes. Good luck to you! We in the business hear horror stories every day…
@sku32956 Жыл бұрын
On the topic of GFCI with sump pumps can be a BIG issue nuisance tripping flooding the basement .
@emmettturner94522 жыл бұрын
GFCI is required for licensed/commercial or permit work under the new 2020 NEC code, not typically DIY. Also, many places have not adopted the 2020 code and some have exceptions to it for EVs… so you be grandfathered in if that ever changed… just like any professional following the earlier code.
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
They make gfci for these. I have not come across them. Where could I find them at. Or are you talking about the breaker with the pigtail on it gfci
@emmettturner94522 жыл бұрын
@@NA-xm7wj I have not seen GFCI NEMA 14-50 receptacles but the way the NEC requirement is written you could use either. I can only find GFCI breakers with the pigtail but it’s possible the code will create enough demand that we will see GFCI NEMA 14-50 receptacles in the future.
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
@@emmettturner9452 ok cool. That’s what I thought you meant but wasn’t sure. Yeah it would probably be good to have a gfci right at the receptical. Thanks
@emmettturner94522 жыл бұрын
@@NA-xm7wj …and might even be cheaper (hopefully!).
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
@@emmettturner9452 yeah hopefully. I’m considering putting in the wiring fir ev’s cuz I think I’m selling the house next year and I hear having it wired already is a plus to buyers that either has electric car or wants to buy one. Hell I want one too but haven’t found the one fir me yet
@mackellyman56427 ай бұрын
Man, you sure got all the Electrician wound up, love the comment section. That's were truth is found if you have common sense IMHO. Kinda nice to see the Electric Vehicles run the power bill up at HOME!
@oldscuba Жыл бұрын
Never surprises me how saving $100.00 is worth the chance of burning down your home when it come to electrical..
@bigfeezy192 ай бұрын
Facts, when you look at it this way we look pretty foolish when we try to be cheap.
@keithb2696 Жыл бұрын
Nice presentation of the corrections. Homeowners need to know the potential problems with new technology. The 2017 NEC does require GFCI for EV receptacles. There was an update in December 2016. Some books have it some do not. Also just like the cheaper receptacles sometimes melt, the same could happen at the circuit breaker box. As you noted these can run 40 or more amps for 6 hours or more. Panels cannot handle the heavy load. Again nice presentation.
@Chris-mi1tt9 ай бұрын
There are several overlapping and seemingly contradictory Electrical codes covering garages. These will either add or retract from the Amps or equipment requirements. I listed a few that apply to the video I saw. Continuously operating equipment: something that will operate for more than 3 hours. A dedicated circuit: 1 circuit breaker, 1 wire run to one outlet. Also, garages normally require a GFCI, but not if a dedicated piece of equipment was used like a freezer or a charging station used solely for your car. As a master electrician, I can honestly say, the electrical code can be put on one page, the other 999 pages are basically exceptions. According to the electrical code, you are running a piece of equipment that is continuously running, on a dedicated circuit that is for one piece of equipment. These things are additive to your base calculations of amperage draw, that's why the outlets are melting. The outlet is the weak link in the video. Next, the insulation on the wire will start to weaken and crack. It's a safe practice that if you're not sure, just go to a higher level: use a 60 amp breaker, 6 gauge wire, etc. These codes are there to prevent the circuit components from overheating and damaging the insulation, NOT to make sure the copper strands can handle the electrical current.
@Fear.of.the.Dark.9 ай бұрын
this is why it is better to just use hardwire chargers. You just take out the plug from the equation.
@tyroneallen69702 жыл бұрын
One more thing the evse should be plugged into the 14-50 outlet and left there if you have a Hubble or Bryant outlet those terminals are a little more heavy duty when people keep plugging and unplugging that's the main cause of the problem! I've been charging two Chevrolet bolts at the same time on two different circuits with Menard brand nema 14-50 after a year there is no sign of burning my two evse stay plugged in!
@envisionelectronics2 жыл бұрын
Not in my experience. I have unplugged my charger maybe 4 times in 2 years. With a Leviton 14-50 I was getting high temperature warnings after 1 year. I retorqued the screws and 6 months later the internal blades were relaxed enough to physically buzz when inspected with a contact stethoscope. I reduced the charge current to 70% of maximum until I could replace it with a Bryant. No more overheating or buzzing. I think it’s a metallurgy issue.
@gyoung45973 ай бұрын
Never knew installing 14-50 outlet had so many considerations. When talking about such a long charge, how does all of this affect Tesla owners who plug their mobile connector into a wall outlet? Charge times can go from 8-30 hours. Thanks for the video!
@Chucka14632 жыл бұрын
I went to buy one today and it turns out that the Hubbell is now cheaper (under $100) than the Bryant.
@luisbraz-ruivo7 ай бұрын
One thing nobody talks about, is that the circuit breaker should be switched off whenever one plugs and unplugs the charger. These outlets are not meant to be used like regular 15-20A outlets that we have throughout the house. This avoids arcing when plugging in and development of carbon that can be a source of problems later.
@awebuser59143 ай бұрын
Most EVSEs are drawing milliamps when idle, so this is a completely pointless "recommendation".
@JoePhiAtHoverNetworksАй бұрын
I found out through Technology Connections' YT vid on EVSEs that part of the standard "connection" sequence is the system checking the grounding. The only way I can conceive of that happening is if the EVSE or the vehicle tries to send SOME current down the ground connection. I had a Siemens breaker which would trip maybe 2/3 of the time when I would plug in my hybrid, either immediately or when I heard the click of one of the contactors closing. I couldn't locate a new Siemens in my area, so I replaced it with a Square D, and I haven't had much trouble with it. This plug-in car is only about 4 weeks "new to me", whereas the Siemens had been installed for a few years. I'm guessing the Siemens is engineered to be more sensitive...or maybe after so much time and a trip now and then, it has gone defective. Either way, I've only had one nuisance trip of the Square D for a couple of weeks, and that wasn't even at charge initation time, it was sometime in the middle of the night.
@WiSeNhEiMeR-13698 ай бұрын
THANKS. ... might I suggest, when using your INITIAL outlet --- to utilize FERRULES on your Stranded Wires before installing them on a screw type termination ? COOP ...
@KRTube75Ай бұрын
Leviton has an industrial EV Rated 14-50R now as well. Part number is 1450R. It looks very much like the Hubbell/Bryant. I haven't gotten my hands on one yet to open it up to see the insides.
@chargeeverywhereАй бұрын
Interesting. I should check that out.
@MotoGPatrick7 ай бұрын
For an EV charger they usually only use L1, L2 and ground. If I did not have an outlet already I would just get a hard wired level 2 charger, pull 4 gage THNN in conduit and use a 60 amp breaker.
@Tithis Жыл бұрын
Some states seem to adding exceptions to the GFCI requirement. I know in Massachusetts I was reading the bill adopting the 2023 NEC and they added bit saying in circuits with one outlet meant for a single device you can forgo the GFCI if they are known to interfere.
@1mw4tch1ng8 ай бұрын
having multiple fuses in a breaker box and preventing turning off the wrong breaker it is best before disassembling the outlet is to test/check if any voltage from the 14-50 outlet. Looking at your wire it looks like you're using a #8 and should be a #6 AWG for the 50amp circuit.
@ewitte125 күн бұрын
The ones on Lowes/HD are listed as industrial grade and have a 4.9 rating. Should be fine if you're using the correct gauge of wire. Plus, I can only charge at 32a anyway.
@michaeleverest3487 Жыл бұрын
It isn't wise to run #8 for EV at 40amps, I wouldn't do it for even a wall mounted charging unit. I'm sure some would because people usually want to go with the least expensive material costs. But 30 amps is the max circuit breaker I would use for #8 when it comes to EV charging. I 've seen and replaced at least 4 charging units catch fire because whoever installed them wasn't qualified. And guess what wire size they used? .... #8! The 90 degree column is primarily meant for conductor derating, correction, sizing, as most terminations are rated at 75 degrees. Don't just pick a wire and assume the ampacity in the column though because there's other factors to consider. What we're concerned about with electrical systems is HEAT. Electricity generates heat, improperly sized conductors can cause fire or other hazards. I hate when non electricians give advice and "how to..." on things they really shouldn't...
@chewyyo338311 ай бұрын
What wire do you recommend then?
@whattheschmidt9 ай бұрын
@@chewyyo3383 #6 for Nema 14-50. Copper.
@chewyyo33839 ай бұрын
@@whattheschmidt thanks, that what I ended up using.
@crhu3192 жыл бұрын
1. PVC conduit must be glued. If it's required at all , it's required to be water proof. 2. Industrial ceramic outlets don't burn. I would recommend those over plastic ones. 3. Hard wiring is not difficult and is safer. It's very easy to take the plate off and disconnect and cap the wires when moving. This is commonly done when stoves move. 4. GFCI is required usually for outdoor/uninsulated spaces.
@keithharrington87152 жыл бұрын
Prior to the 2020 nec update , so nec 2017 or earrlier, article 625.54 requires gfci protection for electric vehicle charging recepticles.
@rb8049 Жыл бұрын
If you are unplugging and plugging in the charger plug, you need to install a permanent charger. You are just asking for a fire eventually. A better outlet will just last longer, but eventually it will fail.
@kevinsoundmixer Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the tip about the Bryant brand!
@user-ug6ti3op3x7 ай бұрын
To follow the NEC is a base. Municipalities have their adapted into NEC with NFPA regulations . Following the NFPA is the overall code .
@cgsound6 ай бұрын
The nema standard 14-50 is that the outlet is rated for 50 amps and makes a standard configuration for the prongs that are rated for the load universally. It will give you 50 amps, however NEC states under a continuous load the wiring and outlets MUST be Derated to 50% of their rating and a continuous load is described as any load lasting 3 hr or more. So everything needs to be increased in size. Electric cars are an issue, I recommend a charging station whenever possible. I don't own a EV But I am a Master electrician I always believed in upsizing wiring, it makes for a better install and adds a safety factor. ****Remember electrical work is NOT A HOBBY Hire a Licensed electrician**** installing these things and not knowing codes can burn your home down. I've seen it.
@davidmika70492 жыл бұрын
Your torque wrench was last calibrated 11 years ago! (12/13/2011) These things require calibration on a 6 to 12 month schedule.
@JeanPierreWhite2 жыл бұрын
Yep. He needs to visit a metrologist.
@iankester-haney3315 Жыл бұрын
Every manufacturer rails against GFCI. I've seen plenty of evidence that sequential gfci protection does not cause trips. If you're not leaking current, you can't trip a gfci. I did install all AFCI/GFCI breakers for my Electrical Expansion project, Computer room on dedicated circuit, to be extra cautious. More protection is better.
@keithharrington87152 жыл бұрын
Sorry, but there is a seperate nec section for car chargers, evse equipment, that in the 2017 or earlier code required gfci protection for car charging recepticles. Please review article 625, specifically 625.54. Article 210.8 now requires (nec 2020) gfci protection for garage recepticles up to 250 volts be gcfi protected.
@jmdavison627 ай бұрын
Using a 40-amp circuit breaker is fine as long as you aren't drawing more than 40 A, (32 A continuously, i.e. 3 hours or more) and as long as they're all compatible with the lowest temperature rating in the chain. If your charger is drawing more than 32 A continuously, using a 50 A circuit breaker is non-negotiable. It would be better to use 90°C-rated equipment throughout and/or pull heavier wire.
@chadrowland5234 Жыл бұрын
And, it is not just EV chargers that can be sour places for GFCI protected devices. RV receptacles is ANOTHER horrible place for that. My uncle Randy has a motorhome and he had a GFCI on his 50 amp and he had nuisance tripping like you would never believe. He ended up removing the GFCI.
@chargeeverywhere Жыл бұрын
I was curious about that as an RV is a huge electrical system and any tiny current leak (or collection of small leaks) will be an issue.
@johnkulpowich5260 Жыл бұрын
Your right the two GFCI buck each other. I've had the same problem
@ianbelletti6241 Жыл бұрын
You forgot about derating for continuous duty. Considering that you expect the charging to last 3 hours or more, you have to size the wire for 125% of the expected draw. If it's 40 amps, then the wire needs to be sized for 50 amps in addition to any other derating. With all the derating, you need a 4awg conductor to feed the outlet even though you put a 40 amp breaker on the circuit.
@chargeeverywhere Жыл бұрын
Yes, you are correct. The 125% derate is handled by the EVSE and/or car as home/garage wiring is sized for the circuit. In other words, on a 40 Amp circuit with 8 AWG your EVSE should draw a maximum of 32 A. All EVSEs are configured in this way or set like this during the install.
@justRome1 Жыл бұрын
Nice. How did you determine the temperature rating of the Bryant or Hubble receptacles ?
@ianbelletti6241 Жыл бұрын
@@justRome1 there's a listed temperature rating for the terminals on the device. If you can't find it in the paperwork that comes with the device, you can look up the spec sheet or contact the manufacturer. Alternately, most terminals, if the listing isn't given, should be considered as being rated for 70°F. The NEC has a wire ampacity and size chart and different insulations fall under different temperature ratings. You always size the wire according to whether the terminal or the wire has the lower temperature rating.
@chargeeverywhere Жыл бұрын
@@justRome1 It was given in the documentation that came with the outlet. They specified to use the 60°C column of the wire sizing charts.
@justRome1 Жыл бұрын
@@chargeeverywhere thanks for looking out on this video you save me from a mistake for sure because I have the same setup. I switched from 50amp to a 40amp. Now. I need to buy a torque wrench. They have more expensive Bryant receptacles out now that do support the 75c. Many KZfaq videos say the Bryant And Hubble receptacles are the same but you have to compare the documentation to determine that.
@michaelphillips-nxs Жыл бұрын
In most cases, it's improper termination torque. too little as well to much can yield the same, over heating from poor connections.
@fauxque50572 жыл бұрын
One thing you did right was match the ground so the plug doesn't put a strain on the cord or outlet. One of the examples you showed, I believe it was a woman, plugging in her cord where the cord ran upwards which causes strain. A couple of things that you missed, when dealing with stranded wires it best to use a ferrule crimped on the end before you put it in the socket. Tightening stranded wire can break off individual strands. It's not so common on the larger cables but it's still recommended. And it's not a DIY project if you wish to collect any insurance money from your home owners policy. They will not pay if you didn't have a licensed electrician install the outlet, and get the required city, or county inspection. I have also heard cases where the homeowner did unrelated none permitted work and had a claim that had nothing to do with the unpermitted work. A homeowner can replace existing switches, and outlets, but adding new circuits requires a permit, and inspection in most cases.
@Thepriest392 жыл бұрын
Your statement about requiring a licensed electrician to install it is absolutely incorrect. A homeowner can do electrical work in their own home as long as you have a permit and it is inspected. I know this because I wired in my whole shop. I installed the 200 AMP panel also. I had two inspections, rough in and the final. The inspector said great job. I followed 2020 NEC codes. My shop is insured by my home owners insurance. They looked up all of the permits.
@cgamiga2 жыл бұрын
Correct re needing the permit, but it is definitely DIY-able.. but if not comfortable, and unable to do required permit work (eg load calculations), get help from electrician.
@MarcoTrillion9 ай бұрын
Tesla suggests a 50 amp breaker with #6 wire for their 220 chargers. Bryant receptacle is great.
@tenmilliondollarsnow Жыл бұрын
Here is the deal. If you go to Grainger’s site, that number for the Bryant references a 14-30R. Where did you get the face plate? Didn’t see that there.
@FlashTwoSix Жыл бұрын
agree. he posted the wrong product url
@ElectricWheels787 Жыл бұрын
Check with Grainger. I had the same issue and called to confirm the actual product being sold. At the time of my call, the product description was wrong as it was referencing a 14-30 instead of 14-50. For wall plate, look into Leviton S701 as the opening is larger to match the Bryant.
@crazypete3759 Жыл бұрын
If your charger has a plug but you never move it, and your electrical code requires a GFCI, you can ask your electrician to cut off the plug and hardwire the charger. If it is hardwired you do not need a GFCI!
@KevinCoop1 Жыл бұрын
Cutting a plug off would violate the cords listing.
@crazypete3759 Жыл бұрын
@@KevinCoop1 most allow for hardwiring. Instructions say to remove the cord end and install the required length of cable. Typically the came cable that goes to the plug...
@dinoLomedico Жыл бұрын
This is EXCELLENT, a better way at a better price.
@tomsuica8731 Жыл бұрын
Also lack of proper torque. Most electricians don't use TR's much less a homeowner. I am BLOWN away just how tight 35in lbs is every time an AC disconnect or breaker calls for 35. Nice use of the TR!!!
@panchopantera82872 жыл бұрын
Did you use the 125% rule and gfci current protection NEMA 14-50 WIRE #6AWG 2 HOTS BLACK RED AND GREEN NO NEUTRAL. TESLA DOESNOT USE NEUTRAL ON THEIR TESLA WALL CHARGER.
@jyh4344 Жыл бұрын
The standard for EV charging is NOT NEMA 1450, it is NEM 650. The is all the Wall chargers wired, NEMA 1450 has an EXTRA Neutral wire for 120 Volt application, which HAS NOTHING to do with EV charging. The ONLY reason people keep talking about NEMA 1450 is because all the RV and Camp Ground Use it. For Charging EV, you Don't need the extra wire in NEMA 1450
@tomtillman Жыл бұрын
You are correct.
@jfbeam2 жыл бұрын
I would venture a guess the earth-grounding test of the charger / connection is the source of many of those GFCI pops. Tesla's are very picky about having a proper ground. (since the car itself isn't grounded, and you're potentially putting a 1000V on to it... grounding is important!)
@whattheschmidt9 ай бұрын
The car is in fact grounded when charging - requires a good grounding connection to start charging. Bonding neutral to ground can skip this but is a safety hazard. People do that for solar batteries / generators to initiate charging.
@awebuser59143 ай бұрын
The bigger question is why use a 14-50 outlet to begin with? Unless you're planning on making cookies in your garage, the neutral circuit (and wire) is completely pointless, complicates it and makes it quite a bit more expensive. Tesla has adapters for the more appropriate 6-50R plug.
@TheRayDog2 ай бұрын
I'd disagree. It's never a bad idea to have 2 paths to ground. Whether a particular car's charging takes advantage of that is another question.
@awebuser59142 ай бұрын
@@TheRayDog Completely pointless comment. Neutral is *never* "a path to ground..." that _any_ circuit would ever use.
@TheRayDog2 ай бұрын
@@awebuser5914 Take a look in your breaker panel, where neutral and "ground" are bonded and grounded to earth. Check your local substation where neutral is grounded to earth. Power from hot seeks ground, whether you like the nomenclature or not. "Neutral" is actually the slightly incorrect and misleading term. From a safety perspective, the 2nd path to ground is always welcome, and also allows for much easier/cheaper fault detection. Having no path to ground invites a floating neutral, which invites problems. Hence why the NEC is clear on where to segregate ground and neutral, where to bond ground and neutral, and sufficiently grounding neutral at the service entrance.
@awebuser59142 ай бұрын
@@TheRayDog Ya, no shit that neutral and ground are essentially the same potential current path, but the point is your nonsense about "paths to ground" is just that, nonsense. Having an unused neutral is completely pointless and would offer *zero* protection from any kind of realistic failure that exposes a hazard. In any case, *every* EVSE will simply not have the neutral wired _in any way_ so, again, it is *irrelevant* . Wiring a 240V EVSE plug with neutral is *completely pointless* . End of story.
@TheRayDog2 ай бұрын
@@awebuser5914 Of course you want a neutral. Plenty of people use an L2 outlet for L1 with adapters. It's lazy and not forward thinking to add the neutral. L1 on L2 is the only code compliant wiring setup the vast majority of consumers can manage anyway. If you hardwire, by all means omit the neutral if your EV doesn't use it. But that's not what this video is about. This is a 14-50 vid. A welder, a compressor, a table saw. That's one of the points of going with an outlet rather than hardwiring- versatility. Never mind that most standalone chargers use a 14-50 plug. A 6-50, which is what apparently you're advising, would be a seriously poor choice. The industry has moved away from it and the NEC as well. Why did you even comment on a 14-50 vid?
@nelsonnunez7790 Жыл бұрын
Why some people uses 50 amp and others uses 30 amps? I installed a 30 amp but I notice the breaker warms up while the car is charging is this normal?
@henrycruz45cal Жыл бұрын
I did it right the first time, saving money by not buying a non-gfci and then a gfci. The breaker never triped with my Tesla mobile connector. Don't do if for code, do it for your safety.
@jeff-w Жыл бұрын
Good vid. Always get your work inspected. If you know what your doing the inspection confirms it, if you don't, the inspection confirms you shouldn't be doing it.
@abrahammc2125 Жыл бұрын
Inspection doesnt confirm anything. It makes it insurance proof..... If somethings goes upside down or up in flames tomorrow, You will be hammered by j3w5 trying to not payout.
@keithtomlin46492 жыл бұрын
Hard wiring a device made for a EV looks more practical to have; don't have plug it in and unplug daily or almost daily(the plugging and unplugin frequently will were out the plugin in a year in my opinion)
@JeanPierreWhite2 жыл бұрын
I leave my EVSE's plugged in all the time. Why would you unplug it on a regular basis?
@BengalTiger47 Жыл бұрын
Ya I don’t understand that point either. Are people taking their EVs and parking it at someone else’s house for extended time on a regular basis, hence needing to take their mobile connectors? There are Superchargers everywhere for road trips, can’t think of any other reason to constantly unplug mobile connectors.
@rhondabailey4444 Жыл бұрын
Allen, is a brand name. Hex wrench
@MFEeee7 ай бұрын
Thank you. This was very helpful
@videoscrapheap Жыл бұрын
If your charger has it’s own GFI but code requires one in the outlet circuit, you may be able to disable/bypass the one in the charger. If it’s not clear in the charger instructions I would contact the manufacturer.
@abrahammc2125 Жыл бұрын
Or you can just fuck the NEC code and AHJ.... I am all for gfci and afci where needed, but lets not try to make 220v receptacles idiot friendly.
@jeremiahnewsom7775 Жыл бұрын
Continuous load my friend. You can only use up to a 32amp charger. 32@125% is 40, you have a 50amp recep. You dont need the industrial grade. a 48amp charger @125% is 60, so you would need 60amp breaker and #6 wire, but a 60amp receptacle does not fit the plug. Thats why you use the industrial grade recp or no recep and hardwire!
@flolou84968 ай бұрын
I have a garage that was converted into a large spare bedroom with regular 110 outlets, it has a window right out in front of the driveway, which for me makes sense with the right AC window kit and 3.5 '' duct tube, I could see a regular 240 chord slide inside of out to the electric car's charge port, once I upgrade the 110 outlet into a 240 Volut outlet: But what am I missing? What major advantage am I losing by not just installing a dedicated outdoor Level 2 (station/stand) as I've seen others do, when they have no garage like myself ?
@schsch2390 Жыл бұрын
My understanding of the evolving NEC code regarding EV charger installs is that they must be hardwired, not plug in. Your local building code may be behind the NEC on this, using earlier issues of the code. (eg my jurisdiction still uses the 2014 edition (!), many are 2017) and IIRC the 2020 edition is the one that goes all in on hardwiring, so check locally on this but hardwire is the way things are going.
@SpencerSkelly Жыл бұрын
Plug-in units have not been banned by NEC in any way, please check article 625 to find that there is clear definition for plug-in devices. Plug-in is here to stay
@edwardhaughney9665 Жыл бұрын
Excellent presentation
@jonathansirmons7932 Жыл бұрын
Literally the same outlet. Why not just buy a twist lock style?
@maryannmoran-smyth34539 ай бұрын
I would prefer a metal box with metal conduit just in case of fire breaks out that plastic box is going to go up like a Christmas tree while the metal is just gonna contain the mess and short it out the breaker quicker because… That’s what Metal does… Lol keep on rocking
@dansanger53402 жыл бұрын
Why would people be plugging and unplugging a NEMA 14-50 charging station every few days? I would think that most of these types of installations are semi-permanent. And, if they are plugging/unplugging frequently, they should probably get a second EVSE.
@bach19582 жыл бұрын
You forgot to consider this outlet as a continuous load. This outlet can be plugged and unplugged without concern as they are considered a disconnecting means.
@johnr5545Ай бұрын
Thanks god bless
@grouchynorwegian8690 Жыл бұрын
Why use multi strand wire as opposed to single strand which is what my electrician used? Another point is that my Tesla determines what is needed for amperage. A message came up on the screen that I would not want to use maximum amperage so I adjusted it down.