Regarding setting the torque on those wire clamps, I would suggest that after you torque them the first time, wiggle/rotate the wires somewhat forcefully and and you'll find that the strands in the wire settle a little (like how the level of Corn Flakes drops if you shake the box a bit from side to side) and you can torque them again. I usually have to do this a couple of times before it's finally fully secure.

As a retired Electrical Foreman I have these comments: 1. I totally agree with the upgrade to the Hubbell/Bryant receptacle. 2. I totally disagree with the down sizing of the circuit breaker. You stated at the beginning its normal for a EV charger to draw 40-amps for hours. Although you correctly charted the ampacity of your #8 THHN wire based on the terminals temperature rating. Please refer to NEC 210.20(A) it states that the overcurrent protection device rating shall not be less than 125% for a continuous load. ( i.e. 40-amp x 1.25 = 50-amp ) You DON'T load a 40-amp breaker to 40-amps 👎You had the right size breaker before. You should never load a breaker more than 80% ( i.e. 50-amp x .80 = 40-amp )

At the end of the video you said that local electricians will know all the standards and what to use. I'm over here on my 2nd (!) melted NEMA 14-50 outlet because the electricians that installed it didn't use a "commercial" or "industrial" grade outlet. Thanks for helping to spread the word about this issue!

Got one from Home Depot $11 worked great for over a year without melting. I used 6 AWG wire always want to go heavier on wire.

I've watched a few videos on this subject and you are one of the few who torqued the connectors. My installation was extensive enough that a inspection from the utility was required, and I was impressed the inspector checked the torque on the connections. He mentioned that this was the very point where he fails many installations.

Regarding the Hubbell vs Bryant debate in the comments, they are identical. Neither are marked 75C on the actual device, so both have to be used as 60C rated receptacles, meaning the conductors feeding them have to be rated using the 60C column. Both say they have a maximum continuous operating temp of 75C in the spec PDF, but this is not the same as being rated for 75C. The manual that comes with both says that the conductor used must be rated in accordance with the 60C column. I just looked at my Hubbell manual, box, and receptacle as well as researched thoroughly online. If the Leviton is rated for 75C, that might be part of why they burn out so often. If they are being installed with 8 gauge wire, they are going to generate more heat, as the 6 gauge wire acts as a heat sink. Just thought I'd clear up any misinfo. The Hubbell and Bryant are both manufactured with superior quality to the Leviton and most other 50A receptacles. This does not mean they can use lighter gauge wire. In order to be a true 50A general use outlet, both will require 6 gauge copper wire and cannot use aluminum. There are exceptions for dedicated receptacles used for a single device such as a welder, but that's a more complex topic.

When I installed my outlet, I used Amp/Tyco wire ferrules with Deoxit L260Dcp conductive grease. The wire ferrules were crimped to the same shape as the outlets connection point "diamond shape on point" this method kept the wire consolidated and allowed even pressure when the allen bolt was tightened.

Thanks for putting out the video and starting the conversation. Thanks to the electricians for their advice too. Tesla's wall EVSE (wall charger) only draws 32A, but another unit might try to draw more. Telsa still recommends a 50 amp circuit with 6AWG wire: - Voltage: Single phase, 208-250 Volt AC supply, 60 Hertz - Circuit Breaker: 50 Amp recommended - Operating Current: 32 Amp (maximum continuous current) - Conductors: 6 AWG recommended, Copper Wire Only. Upsize wiring for installations over 150 feet - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter: Not required - Service Disconnect: Not required - Receptacle Recommendation: High quality, industrial grade receptacle

Super. ALWAYS use the expensive name brand 50 ampere commercial receptacle, a metal well anchored 4/0 box and metal (2 kinds, one surface mount, one recessed mount.) cover plate, and a 50 ampere GFCI breaker, or the prefabricated GFCI outlet box and a standard 50 ampere breaker. Do use at least 6/3g or four six gauge copper wires (Larger is OK, especially for long runs.) if you don't know your areas electrical codes. (Note: THHN 6 gauge wire in conduit can have an 8 gauge ground, some 6/3g has an 8 gauge ground, and some codes allow the ground to be one or two gauges smaller than the conductors.) Make sure that you have four wires into your outlet or prefab box, even if it only requires three. (Old school.) ALWAYS add mineral oil or oxidation prevention grease to ALL connections and to the breaker, (ALL of the terminals or connections, including the breaker and plug prongs.) and always wiggle (Hard) the wires to the connections and retorque the fasteners at least twice. Think about putting a disconnection device beside the outlet so that you can turn the power off when you plug in or remove the plug, and lastly, get one of those rubber door mats and put it below the outlet. (And breaker box.) I have had to repair the smoldering remains of car charging outlets for years now, and sometimes it was a customer that installed it, but many times it was a licensed electrician who actually did a fine job but didn't know that a standard 14-50 receptacle from your local hardware store was inadequate for the job. (Mostly due to being plugged in and out again, while a stove outlet remains connected.) These procedures and precautions allow this Sparky to sleep very well at night. Stay safe. 💙 T.E.N.

Thanks for sharing this mistakes video. “It’s good to learn from your mistakes, but it’s even better to learn from someone else’s mistakes!”

Thank you for highlighting your mistakes so that we can learn. This knowledge will be extremely relevant in the next 10 years as EV's become more popular. I know a lot of people will attempt to install these outlets themselves to save money. A lot of DIY'ers think you can just torque the wires by feel with a regular screw driver like you can get away with for 15A receptacles for example.

Good video, thanks. I'm glad you covered proper torquing of fasteners. This is something that for MOST residential components is not required and as such many of us do-it-yourselvers don't know about.

I test my outlet, charger, and cord during charging operations (hourly) in the summer in Phoenix, AZ, with a laser thermometer. The highest temperature at the receptacle was 115 degrees, the charger is generally 128 degrees, and the cord 113 degrees. The highest ambient temperature of the garage I've seen was 117 degrees (I didn't charge that day). The book says don't charge when the temperature exceeds 122 degrees. We own a Nissan Ariya, which has a built-in cooler for the battery, which does come on intermittently during charging during the summer but not in the winter.

A few years ago while at an IAEI continuing education class they told us that UL labs had samples of receptacles & can't remember if it included switches from all around the country. Approximately only 30 yo 40% were toquered properly. Remainder were close in either not toquered enough or too much. Was told excessive torque was just as bad as insufficient torque. Of the approximately 100 electricians at the class less then 10% even owned a torque wrench or torque driver.

Slight correction, those are poles not phases in your house. The poles are 240v across them with neutral tapped from the middle of the single phase transformer. Everything is on the same sinewave.

Forget the outlet for a dedicated charger. Hard wire it. Every termination point is an added potential point of failure. Plus you'll save money on additional parts you don't need

Good points. EV charger installs is all that I do now and getting to the point of only doing hardwire installs. My latest outlet, the only commercial grade I could find was a Hubbell at $164. Also needed to run the unused neutral, add another $35. Right now my AHJ does not require a gfci breaker but will in the future, add another $100.

It is a good practice with stranded wire to use bootlace ferrules on screw clamp type devices. It ensures better connections as the stranded wire will separate with the screw type connection.

Hey Josh, I personally liked this video and it appears your new EV charging setup is safe. I read though several comments....holy crap, people really like to voice their opinion.... Anyway, thanks for doing this video, producing instructional videos are a ton of work, so thanks.

Hi Josh, Thank you for making this wonderful video outlining the issues with outlet capacity, wire size torque values and installation process. Excellent quality and content. Also your viewers comments are excellent and helpful.

It’s like a gfci on a freezer in your garage, nothing like coming home from work with a defrosted freezer because of a nuisance trip.

It originally was a 14-50 outlet with the tesla Mobil charger which only charges at a max 32 amps. I put the larger wire in and breaker knowing I would probably upgrade later which I did, I installed a Tesla wall charger which charges up to 48 amps max but you can control how many amps flow with the Tesla app. You can turn it down to 15 amps or up to 48 amps or anything in between. I turn it down just so its not pulling a ton of current when its really not needed. If I get home and will not leave till the next day which is more then 12 or so hours away typically, turning it down to 20 or 25 amps makes it charge over about a 5 to 8 hours window depending on how depleted the battery is that day. Charging at 48 amps is not needed so I don't do it. The wall charger recommends 6 gouge wire and a 60 amp breaker because overkill its a good thing. Less heat in a larger wire when pulling max amps.

If you have installed these high current outlets before, when you finally use a proper torque device you will realize you were probably not torquing these terminals enough in the past. As commenters have stated, torque, wiggle the wire and torque again is a good practice. Regular household 20A circuits do not have the torque worries that these high current circuits require. Additionally, choosing a high quality receptacle is also important. This outlet will have many plug-in and plug-out cycles. Great info in this video.

For our Tesla model Y we had an electrician install the NEMA 14-50 outlet but it was cheap and overheated. Teslas deal with this by lowering the charging current. Looking at the cost of a good 14-50 and the GFI breaker I plunked down the $400 for the dedicated wall charger.

I was a Ford tech. Learned some stuff about residential charging from them. One of the first things I was shown was burnt houses and cars and garages. Not necessarily because the tech did it wrong. But because this is an emerging technology. I don’t ever install NEMA plugs for EV chargers at all. And honestly, that technology is already outdated in my opinion. I only install the Tesla Gen 3 charger. Tesla has been doing it longer has made more mistakes and learned from them. I looked at the Rivian chargers too, and they are not great wouldn’t take on the liability myself. But Tesla has made a universal charger for the GEN three I recommend it over the Rivian truck charger any day.

I repurposed a 50 amp GFCI line from a former hot tub to power my 30 amp Enel X Juice Box. I replace the GFCI breaker with a regular one because the instructions said I should, but for fun I used the GFCI breaker for 1 week to see if it caused any issues. 1 rain storm and 1 snow storm happened that week (go figure, December in central PA). The outlet is in a sealed, locked box. I had no issues, but changed the breaker anyway.I have never unplugged it, but without a GFCI on an outdoor outlet, you can bet I'll be shutting off the breaker if I ever do unplug it.

Very good information presented, but please ALWAYS verify that the circuit is dead at the receptacle even though the breaker is turned off. Turning off the wrong breaker happens more often than you think! I am a Master Electrician..........don't ask me how I know.

Best video of the installation that I’ve seen and you really nailed all the important points!

Very good video and a follow up to your original video. I just ordered the same Bryant outlet from Grainger and will be doing the install soon. I am in CA, my house is new and the contractor installed a breaker for the EV charger. Thank you for posting.

For all the problems you mentioned at the beginning I hard wired my Tesla Wall Connector with NO GFCI, I don't trust them for this application and went ahead and used 6 AWG. See the Sandy Munroe segment on the dangers of 14-50 receptacles, they melt, go ahead and do the job right the first time with a wall connector.

One thing I would note is that the Ambient Temperature Correction factors in NEC does not get enough attention and tests have shown the significance of conductor heat during sustained high current periods. I would argue this also applies to the receptacle as well. Consider that over the last 10 years the average high temperature in 22 of the 50 states is over 87F, then at the very least a correction factor of .91 should be applied in addition to the continues current draw derating of 125%. This would mean for a load of 40 amps the circuit would need to be sized to support 55 amps. Inversely if you consider the LIMFAC of the NEMA 14-50 being 50 AMP max, then no more than 36 Amps of load should be placed on that circuit. Once ambient temperature goes up that max current load drops to 32 Amps or lower. One other potential recommendation for NEC updates is to also derate an EV specific circuit by 130% instead of 125% considering the potential for much longer sustained current draw.

It's not true that those outlets aren't designed for continuous 50A power draw. They are or else they wouldn't have gotten the UL approval. But that means that the install needs to be done 100% correctly. I have found that most connector outlets overheat because the screws weren't tightened properly or the wrong wire was used. A good way to tell if you have a problem is to feel the connector under a full load. If it's getting hot, there is a problem. The thing about daily charging is that you might be connecting and disconnecting every day and some cheap connectors start to wear out after too many connections and disconnections. That's probably why more EV outlets melt down. You plug the dryer in once and the plug stays put until the dryer dies and is replaced. And, yes, you can solve that problem by going with a better connector.

I applaud you for trying to correct your mistakes. 1. the NEC 110.14C does state that circuits under a 100 amps in a dwelling unit shall use the 60° column. You saying that even with 90° wire and a 75° breaker, you kinda met code was in error. 2. The basic 14 -50 plug is a non continuous duty, which is rated for less than 3 hours use at a time.. EV charging requires a heavy duty, continuous duty rated receptacle. Which is for more than 3 hours use, as per code. 3. That 14-50 was not originally for EV or the stove(10-50R on 40amp breaker was stove). 14-50R was designed for RV's and they are so readily available EV's found it easier to use. Even though the EV doesn't need the neutral. When I consulted with Tesla. The 6-50R was proper for EV use, but not widely used. It's easier for a customer to put in a 14 -50R and have a multi-use for it. 4. Please remember, there are several states around the country that homeowners are not allowed to do their own electrical work, Texas being one. Keep up the videos. We all learn somehow.

Hubbell products have always been top $$$, I bought a Hubbell NEMA 14-30P for my lathe in 2016 and it was $55 at the time. One thing that i discovered later is that in the larger sizes, the twist-lock versions, _e.g._ an L14-30P, are considerably cheaper.

Also consider voltage drop potentially requiring the upsizing of wire size in addition to those other derating factors.

Great information, especially the part about GFCI. One more tip for NEMA 14-50: Spray Deoxit DN5 into the outlet. It's a contact cleaner and lubricant. It will make plugging/unplugging much easier and will prolong the life of the outlet. You can use Deoxit D5, but you have to cut the power before using it.

Sometimes I can’t explain something very well but it has to with the amount of current you can put through a wire. Under one circumstance you can put say 20 amps through a number 12 wire, another only 10 or 12 amps without overheating. One of the circumstance is the ambient air temperature but also if there is anything else heating the conduit such as sunlight exposure or whether there are a whole mess of wires in a small conduit, all carrying a lot of amps. I’ve been fooling around with car alternators lately and on the rotor coil, it does not take that many amps for the coil to overheat if it has been running a long time. The wire in an electromagnet or transformer is all packed together and thus harder for the heat to escape. I think sometimes you got to use your own head to determine what wire size you should and not just go by what someone else says.

Best to coat the wire ends with anti-ox before clamping in the outlet. It is requisite for aluminum wire, but also helps with copper wire. Some appliances like refrigerators trip GFCI breakers. Latest-greatest is AFCI-GFCI "combined" breakers. Some Eaton models suffered so many false trips that they have a stealth recall to replace them for free.

Before going near terminal wires, ALWAYS test for voltage, even after flipping the breaker. ALWAYS.

You should always test for voltage before working on a circuit.... never assume it is dead because it could have been mislabeled, etc. and could be deadly.

I found when replacing nema 14-50 outlets they're all rated to carry 50 amps! The Hubble's and Bryant's will burn too if they're smashed into a shallow electrical box! All the conductors need to be completely recessed into the terminals no frayed wires!

Guys like you that make these videos keep me in business.Thank You.

On the topic of GFCI with sump pumps can be a BIG issue nuisance tripping flooding the basement .

GFCI is required for licensed/commercial or permit work under the new 2020 NEC code, not typically DIY. Also, many places have not adopted the 2020 code and some have exceptions to it for EVs… so you be grandfathered in if that ever changed… just like any professional following the earlier code.

Man, you sure got all the Electrician wound up, love the comment section. That's were truth is found if you have common sense IMHO. Kinda nice to see the Electric Vehicles run the power bill up at HOME!

Never surprises me how saving $100.00 is worth the chance of burning down your home when it come to electrical..

Nice presentation of the corrections. Homeowners need to know the potential problems with new technology. The 2017 NEC does require GFCI for EV receptacles. There was an update in December 2016. Some books have it some do not. Also just like the cheaper receptacles sometimes melt, the same could happen at the circuit breaker box. As you noted these can run 40 or more amps for 6 hours or more. Panels cannot handle the heavy load. Again nice presentation.

There are several overlapping and seemingly contradictory Electrical codes covering garages. These will either add or retract from the Amps or equipment requirements. I listed a few that apply to the video I saw. Continuously operating equipment: something that will operate for more than 3 hours. A dedicated circuit: 1 circuit breaker, 1 wire run to one outlet. Also, garages normally require a GFCI, but not if a dedicated piece of equipment was used like a freezer or a charging station used solely for your car. As a master electrician, I can honestly say, the electrical code can be put on one page, the other 999 pages are basically exceptions. According to the electrical code, you are running a piece of equipment that is continuously running, on a dedicated circuit that is for one piece of equipment. These things are additive to your base calculations of amperage draw, that's why the outlets are melting. The outlet is the weak link in the video. Next, the insulation on the wire will start to weaken and crack. It's a safe practice that if you're not sure, just go to a higher level: use a 60 amp breaker, 6 gauge wire, etc. These codes are there to prevent the circuit components from overheating and damaging the insulation, NOT to make sure the copper strands can handle the electrical current.

One more thing the evse should be plugged into the 14-50 outlet and left there if you have a Hubble or Bryant outlet those terminals are a little more heavy duty when people keep plugging and unplugging that's the main cause of the problem! I've been charging two Chevrolet bolts at the same time on two different circuits with Menard brand nema 14-50 after a year there is no sign of burning my two evse stay plugged in!

Never knew installing 14-50 outlet had so many considerations. When talking about such a long charge, how does all of this affect Tesla owners who plug their mobile connector into a wall outlet? Charge times can go from 8-30 hours. Thanks for the video!

I went to buy one today and it turns out that the Hubbell is now cheaper (under $100) than the Bryant.

One thing nobody talks about, is that the circuit breaker should be switched off whenever one plugs and unplugs the charger. These outlets are not meant to be used like regular 15-20A outlets that we have throughout the house. This avoids arcing when plugging in and development of carbon that can be a source of problems later.

I found out through Technology Connections' YT vid on EVSEs that part of the standard "connection" sequence is the system checking the grounding. The only way I can conceive of that happening is if the EVSE or the vehicle tries to send SOME current down the ground connection. I had a Siemens breaker which would trip maybe 2/3 of the time when I would plug in my hybrid, either immediately or when I heard the click of one of the contactors closing. I couldn't locate a new Siemens in my area, so I replaced it with a Square D, and I haven't had much trouble with it. This plug-in car is only about 4 weeks "new to me", whereas the Siemens had been installed for a few years. I'm guessing the Siemens is engineered to be more sensitive...or maybe after so much time and a trip now and then, it has gone defective. Either way, I've only had one nuisance trip of the Square D for a couple of weeks, and that wasn't even at charge initation time, it was sometime in the middle of the night.

THANKS. ... might I suggest, when using your INITIAL outlet --- to utilize FERRULES on your Stranded Wires before installing them on a screw type termination ? COOP ...

Leviton has an industrial EV Rated 14-50R now as well. Part number is 1450R. It looks very much like the Hubbell/Bryant. I haven't gotten my hands on one yet to open it up to see the insides.

For an EV charger they usually only use L1, L2 and ground. If I did not have an outlet already I would just get a hard wired level 2 charger, pull 4 gage THNN in conduit and use a 60 amp breaker.

Some states seem to adding exceptions to the GFCI requirement. I know in Massachusetts I was reading the bill adopting the 2023 NEC and they added bit saying in circuits with one outlet meant for a single device you can forgo the GFCI if they are known to interfere.

having multiple fuses in a breaker box and preventing turning off the wrong breaker it is best before disassembling the outlet is to test/check if any voltage from the 14-50 outlet. Looking at your wire it looks like you're using a #8 and should be a #6 AWG for the 50amp circuit.

The ones on Lowes/HD are listed as industrial grade and have a 4.9 rating. Should be fine if you're using the correct gauge of wire. Plus, I can only charge at 32a anyway.

It isn't wise to run #8 for EV at 40amps, I wouldn't do it for even a wall mounted charging unit. I'm sure some would because people usually want to go with the least expensive material costs. But 30 amps is the max circuit breaker I would use for #8 when it comes to EV charging. I 've seen and replaced at least 4 charging units catch fire because whoever installed them wasn't qualified. And guess what wire size they used? .... #8! The 90 degree column is primarily meant for conductor derating, correction, sizing, as most terminations are rated at 75 degrees. Don't just pick a wire and assume the ampacity in the column though because there's other factors to consider. What we're concerned about with electrical systems is HEAT. Electricity generates heat, improperly sized conductors can cause fire or other hazards. I hate when non electricians give advice and "how to..." on things they really shouldn't...

1. PVC conduit must be glued. If it's required at all , it's required to be water proof. 2. Industrial ceramic outlets don't burn. I would recommend those over plastic ones. 3. Hard wiring is not difficult and is safer. It's very easy to take the plate off and disconnect and cap the wires when moving. This is commonly done when stoves move. 4. GFCI is required usually for outdoor/uninsulated spaces.

If you are unplugging and plugging in the charger plug, you need to install a permanent charger. You are just asking for a fire eventually. A better outlet will just last longer, but eventually it will fail.

Thank you for the tip about the Bryant brand!

To follow the NEC is a base. Municipalities have their adapted into NEC with NFPA regulations . Following the NFPA is the overall code .

The nema standard 14-50 is that the outlet is rated for 50 amps and makes a standard configuration for the prongs that are rated for the load universally. It will give you 50 amps, however NEC states under a continuous load the wiring and outlets MUST be Derated to 50% of their rating and a continuous load is described as any load lasting 3 hr or more. So everything needs to be increased in size. Electric cars are an issue, I recommend a charging station whenever possible. I don't own a EV But I am a Master electrician I always believed in upsizing wiring, it makes for a better install and adds a safety factor. ****Remember electrical work is NOT A HOBBY Hire a Licensed electrician**** installing these things and not knowing codes can burn your home down. I've seen it.

Your torque wrench was last calibrated 11 years ago! (12/13/2011) These things require calibration on a 6 to 12 month schedule.

Every manufacturer rails against GFCI. I've seen plenty of evidence that sequential gfci protection does not cause trips. If you're not leaking current, you can't trip a gfci. I did install all AFCI/GFCI breakers for my Electrical Expansion project, Computer room on dedicated circuit, to be extra cautious. More protection is better.

Sorry, but there is a seperate nec section for car chargers, evse equipment, that in the 2017 or earlier code required gfci protection for car charging recepticles. Please review article 625, specifically 625.54. Article 210.8 now requires (nec 2020) gfci protection for garage recepticles up to 250 volts be gcfi protected.

Using a 40-amp circuit breaker is fine as long as you aren't drawing more than 40 A, (32 A continuously, i.e. 3 hours or more) and as long as they're all compatible with the lowest temperature rating in the chain. If your charger is drawing more than 32 A continuously, using a 50 A circuit breaker is non-negotiable. It would be better to use 90°C-rated equipment throughout and/or pull heavier wire.

And, it is not just EV chargers that can be sour places for GFCI protected devices. RV receptacles is ANOTHER horrible place for that. My uncle Randy has a motorhome and he had a GFCI on his 50 amp and he had nuisance tripping like you would never believe. He ended up removing the GFCI.

Your right the two GFCI buck each other. I've had the same problem

You forgot about derating for continuous duty. Considering that you expect the charging to last 3 hours or more, you have to size the wire for 125% of the expected draw. If it's 40 amps, then the wire needs to be sized for 50 amps in addition to any other derating. With all the derating, you need a 4awg conductor to feed the outlet even though you put a 40 amp breaker on the circuit.

In most cases, it's improper termination torque. too little as well to much can yield the same, over heating from poor connections.

One thing you did right was match the ground so the plug doesn't put a strain on the cord or outlet. One of the examples you showed, I believe it was a woman, plugging in her cord where the cord ran upwards which causes strain. A couple of things that you missed, when dealing with stranded wires it best to use a ferrule crimped on the end before you put it in the socket. Tightening stranded wire can break off individual strands. It's not so common on the larger cables but it's still recommended. And it's not a DIY project if you wish to collect any insurance money from your home owners policy. They will not pay if you didn't have a licensed electrician install the outlet, and get the required city, or county inspection. I have also heard cases where the homeowner did unrelated none permitted work and had a claim that had nothing to do with the unpermitted work. A homeowner can replace existing switches, and outlets, but adding new circuits requires a permit, and inspection in most cases.

Tesla suggests a 50 amp breaker with #6 wire for their 220 chargers. Bryant receptacle is great.

Here is the deal. If you go to Grainger’s site, that number for the Bryant references a 14-30R. Where did you get the face plate? Didn’t see that there.

If your charger has a plug but you never move it, and your electrical code requires a GFCI, you can ask your electrician to cut off the plug and hardwire the charger. If it is hardwired you do not need a GFCI!

This is EXCELLENT, a better way at a better price.

Also lack of proper torque. Most electricians don't use TR's much less a homeowner. I am BLOWN away just how tight 35in lbs is every time an AC disconnect or breaker calls for 35. Nice use of the TR!!!

Did you use the 125% rule and gfci current protection NEMA 14-50 WIRE #6AWG 2 HOTS BLACK RED AND GREEN NO NEUTRAL. TESLA DOESNOT USE NEUTRAL ON THEIR TESLA WALL CHARGER.

The standard for EV charging is NOT NEMA 1450, it is NEM 650. The is all the Wall chargers wired, NEMA 1450 has an EXTRA Neutral wire for 120 Volt application, which HAS NOTHING to do with EV charging. The ONLY reason people keep talking about NEMA 1450 is because all the RV and Camp Ground Use it. For Charging EV, you Don't need the extra wire in NEMA 1450

I would venture a guess the earth-grounding test of the charger / connection is the source of many of those GFCI pops. Tesla's are very picky about having a proper ground. (since the car itself isn't grounded, and you're potentially putting a 1000V on to it... grounding is important!)

The bigger question is why use a 14-50 outlet to begin with? Unless you're planning on making cookies in your garage, the neutral circuit (and wire) is completely pointless, complicates it and makes it quite a bit more expensive. Tesla has adapters for the more appropriate 6-50R plug.

Why some people uses 50 amp and others uses 30 amps? I installed a 30 amp but I notice the breaker warms up while the car is charging is this normal?

I did it right the first time, saving money by not buying a non-gfci and then a gfci. The breaker never triped with my Tesla mobile connector. Don't do if for code, do it for your safety.

Good vid. Always get your work inspected. If you know what your doing the inspection confirms it, if you don't, the inspection confirms you shouldn't be doing it.

Hard wiring a device made for a EV looks more practical to have; don't have plug it in and unplug daily or almost daily(the plugging and unplugin frequently will were out the plugin in a year in my opinion)

Allen, is a brand name. Hex wrench

Thank you. This was very helpful

If your charger has it’s own GFI but code requires one in the outlet circuit, you may be able to disable/bypass the one in the charger. If it’s not clear in the charger instructions I would contact the manufacturer.

Continuous load my friend. You can only use up to a 32amp charger. 32@125% is 40, you have a 50amp recep. You dont need the industrial grade. a 48amp charger @125% is 60, so you would need 60amp breaker and #6 wire, but a 60amp receptacle does not fit the plug. Thats why you use the industrial grade recp or no recep and hardwire!

I have a garage that was converted into a large spare bedroom with regular 110 outlets, it has a window right out in front of the driveway, which for me makes sense with the right AC window kit and 3.5 '' duct tube, I could see a regular 240 chord slide inside of out to the electric car's charge port, once I upgrade the 110 outlet into a 240 Volut outlet: But what am I missing? What major advantage am I losing by not just installing a dedicated outdoor Level 2 (station/stand) as I've seen others do, when they have no garage like myself ?

My understanding of the evolving NEC code regarding EV charger installs is that they must be hardwired, not plug in. Your local building code may be behind the NEC on this, using earlier issues of the code. (eg my jurisdiction still uses the 2014 edition (!), many are 2017) and IIRC the 2020 edition is the one that goes all in on hardwiring, so check locally on this but hardwire is the way things are going.

Excellent presentation

Literally the same outlet. Why not just buy a twist lock style?

I would prefer a metal box with metal conduit just in case of fire breaks out that plastic box is going to go up like a Christmas tree while the metal is just gonna contain the mess and short it out the breaker quicker because… That’s what Metal does… Lol keep on rocking

Why would people be plugging and unplugging a NEMA 14-50 charging station every few days? I would think that most of these types of installations are semi-permanent. And, if they are plugging/unplugging frequently, they should probably get a second EVSE.

You forgot to consider this outlet as a continuous load. This outlet can be plugged and unplugged without concern as they are considered a disconnecting means.

Thanks god bless

Why use multi strand wire as opposed to single strand which is what my electrician used? Another point is that my Tesla determines what is needed for amperage. A message came up on the screen that I would not want to use maximum amperage so I adjusted it down.