Very kind, thank you. There are a number of other finishes on my website www.scenicpainters.com in the video courses section, some free and some part of a pay to view course. I run courses in scenic painting from my studio in Gloucestershire UK.

My first boss told me how as an apprentice he would have to prepare rooms ahead of his master painter boss! Who would often fly into a rage if the job was not prepared to his high specifications, and on top of that! he would get a hiding if said boss could'nt see his reflection on his polished hand tools. He would then also take all the glory for the job !😃

Thanks Bill, glad you liked it! I have more effects on offer here in case they are of interest. scenic-painters.thinkific.com

Your welcome!

Thankyou! There are more tutorials available here if you are interested in more paint effects and finishes. scenic-painters.thinkific.com

Glad you liked the video. Did you mean that you were going to paint this effect on your floors? I'm not sure I'd go down that road as eventually it might start to wear off, even with a robust varnish.

Thankyou! Glad you enjoyed it. Lots more of these on the Scenic Painters website, www.scenicpainters.com. Just go to the online courses section.

BS17 Many thanks. Yes getting a nice quality flogger brush is important too. You want one that has firm bristle

Button polish is one of several types of shellac for me. Other types include garnet polish transparent polish white knotting and FEV One of my favourite group of materials

Thanks for the feedback on the film!

FYI, Button Polish is available in the US at Rockler

I had no idea.

Thanks Iris. There are some more tutorials here, some of them free to view. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html

This is actually a topic that must be learnt in colleges. Even though broken colour work is dying out it still has to be taught. Wood Graining and Marble effects are both required skills that are needed to pass a Level 2 Diploma in P&D.

Interesting point you make Kira,both my apprentices achieved there level 2 in January. Both apprentices were given marbling,rag rolling and other effects as topics in the curriculum,yet neither one of them even buffed a panel out ready for graining much less attempted any,nor was this topic even discussed.How do you explain why certification can be issued even though the student has never completed key elements that “as you say” should be covered in order to obtain a level 2 in P&D???

Gaz Barham Thanks for your kind comments. Yes if it’s outside then everything changes materials-wise but the idea should be the same. Build in layers. Working in oil based paints means you can work more slowly. No drying time issues. Think of it in terms of a very good prime layer then the correct base coat. Then the graining layer. You could check out a company called radcliffe who used to make oil based graining glazes. Then a stain layer to add depth. Then a protective layer. Outdoor painting isn’t my area really but I would do a sample before doing the door and then leave it outside for a bit to see how it weathers our weather!

Glad you liked the tutorial. Walnut is a bit different, not created with combs and rockers but with brushes. I've not made a walnut tutorial so far but there are other woodgraining tutorials including mahogany on my teaching website. you can find your way from here. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks. Glad you found it useful. Pdf here scenicpainters.com/oak.html

@@jamesrowse7134 Great instruction video, thank you. The link didn't take me to the pdf - is it still available please?

@@gsdbellaoneone9325 www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html. Thereto go

Is there anyway that I can achieve this result in a darker grey colour? Like a kind of dark ash colour? Thanks, your video is amazing and extremely helpful!

@@MrDaniel1832 Hi Daniel. Send me a picture reference of what you have in mind and I'll see if I can help. info@scenicpainters.com

Tom Thank you! The Rosco paints mentioned are available in the states but I'm afraid I don't know about the rest. Find a good Scenic suppliers and they should have the rest. If not Flints Hire and Supply in london will have anything you can't find and I'm sure they will send stuff to you Cheers James

At the bottom of this page you'll find a pdf file with all the materials listed. Just click the download button. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html

Thanks Josh

Glad you liked the tutorial. There are more videos on offer here. www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html

Thanks Jan. Very kind of you.

In the 19th and early 20th century Europe that was considered an art form on its own and there were highly skilled professionals doing it. The main reason being that some fancy timber species aren't ideal for certain applications, e.g. doors, so a suitable species was used and then faux grained. Solid timber might also have more blemishes than a good graining job. It should work fine outdoors, provided you use the right materials. I'd probably use exterior grade paints and stains for the process and perhaps finish it with a layer of varnish. I'm just a DIYer too, mind you, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt!

OneShot is great paint. The chemistry has changed. The old OneShot contained lead. The newer version is lead free. Both versions can be reduced with paint thinner or if open time is a factor small amounts of kerosene will do the trick. Mr.Rowse in UK call it paraffin. We hope no one reading this becomes confused and seals jars of jam or jellies with kerosene in either country. OneShot as a glaze coat would need to be mixed with an exterior compatible alkyd polyurethane many times now called "Spar Varnish"

Thanks Jenny!

Sounds like lots of prep work needed to get rid of the lumps. Then it’s about masking and painting the parts of the door in the right right order

@@jamesrowse7134 Yes, any kind of paint job on that door (actually a tall set of double doors with three panels each) will require plenty of thorough prep work!

Thankyou! Must be dry. Water-based paints and varnishes will lift if they are touch dry but still a bit soft and tacky.

James Rowse Thank you, that does help a lot.

Thanks!

Thanks Robert. Yes its the same in the UK, for film work anyway. I mostly work in theatre where there is less of a division between the two groups. Sadly there is less scenic art being done in every industry these days but this week I'm painting cloths for a show coming to Broadway, really old fashioned scenic artwork, "Farinelli and the King"

I worked with a scenic artist years ago on a feature and they had him making silk screens a printing felt for gambling tables that would usually be done in the sign shop but like you said their is less work for scenic artist these days several times working in San Francisco I hired help from their scenic shop at the Opera house and they did set painting for me the sets at the opera house are quite large they took me on a tour

Cheers!

Well that's a big tree! If it was panelled then no problem. A panelled wall is made up of lots of little but ta of wood so it becomes an exercise in masking and patience but a massive expanse of oak in one piece would look a bit odd in my book.

Tea Marie pp.

Hi Barry Thanks for that feedback. If you visit this page you can download an info sheet that should tell you what you need to know. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html

Thanks a lot, I cant wait to try this. I'm an artist and this is a great way to take woodworking to more of an artsy level,..lol

No worries. Let me know if you'd like to take any of the courses on offer at the studio. This is just one of many paint effects I teach at Scenic Painters.

www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html This page has the video embedded at the bottom of the page. Below that is a resources sheet with all the materials listed for you to download

@@jamesrowse7134 All I get is a page with your courses. There is no video or pdf

Hi Andrew. Thanks for letting me know about this problem. I think its fixed now so please go to this page www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html and click the DATA SHEET button under the video. As for primers it will depend on your substrate. in this video I worked on raw MDF and it was not done with kitchen use in mind. I think I'd go for something more substantial as a base, maybe one of the Zinzer primers to start with, then on with an emulsion base etc. Hope this helps.

@@jamesrowse7134 link still doesn't work for me; could you. please, try again?

brian goodwin Hi Brian. Yes the base coat needs to be dry. If you trap moisture into the paint layer by sealing over damp paint it’s liable to bloom and you might get white patches appearing

thanks James, i am a time served painter and this has taken me right back to my colledge days, unfortunately I never got to do much graining after completing my apprenticeship. Great Video mate

Thanks!

All kinds of tools and brushes here.. Graining combs right at the bottom of the page. www.flints.co.uk/pdfcatalogue/paintbrushes.pdf

@@jamesrowse7134 Thank you VERY much, Mr. Rowse!! For the tutorial too, of course: extremely helpful.

Well, for mahogany I'd go for an apricot kind of colour as a base, seal, grain with a little Rosco burnt umber in glaze, stain or overgrown in Vandyke solution and finish off with button polish again. However the graining marks are very different for mahogany. I may get around to a video one day.

@@jamesrowse7134 thank you. Are the graining marks similar for cherry wood

Cherry is actually fairly fine grained wood, more so than oak so I would approach it with brushed graining rather than using combs. It's not something I've been asked to do though, so I'm afraid that I don't have a method to offer.

@@jamesrowse7134 thank you

at lazada.

Yes button polish (or button shellac) is the material most used to seal the surface when you are painting scenery for theatre, in the UK at least. I believe it's also available in the US and other places.

oil.

I have a course online using Thinkific as a teaching platform. The wood Course has a number of other finishes including mahogany, stained parquet, weathered wood and a raised grain old oak. You can find it here along with a course on metal finishes and another on tools and materials. Courses come with a number of pdf resources as well as discussion boards www.scenicpainters.com/online_courses.html

@@jamesrowse7134 thank you i've Signed up for the wood grain course, And have ordered some tools online

@@jasonduff9525 That's great! You can get help advice of feedback through the discussion boards on each of the course videos. Let me know if I can help further

should be here. www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html

@@jamesrowse7134 thank you! Outstanding work!

Hi. It's here on this page. www.scenicpainters.com/oak.html

And there's lots more videos about scenic painting available here. scenic-painters.thinkific.com

If you go to this page and click the info sheet button you'll find the notes. www.courses.scenicpainters.com/Our_Courses.html

Button Polish! A type of Shellac used in furniture finishing and widly used by scenic artists and paint effects people.

But let's change it to butt polish! :p

Odd? Just checked, and it sounds ok on my desktop. Have you tried on a different device? You can see a very similar tutorial as part of my paid "wood finishes" course via the scenic painters website. Its made up of a number of wood finishes tutorials. The oak tutorial is free as a sample course so you could try that one?

Thanks for your comments Con Mike. You don’t say if you are a master grainer, a scenic artist or either, but it would be interesting to know. A job like graining can be approached in lots of different ways depending on the situation you are graining for, your budget and timetable. For a high end house this kind of work maybe all wrong but that’s not what it’s designed to do. I paint scenery for the theatre and teach others to do the same. I use a rocker to create heart grain because it’s a quick cost effective way of doing it and for theatre it works on stage. I use rubber combs because for theatre painting we generally use water based paints not oil based paints. Metal combs rust. You’d also have to leave base coats to cure longer as metal combs might scratch them. Have a look at the UK National Theatre video on woodgraining. They use the same tools as me, in pretty much the same way, including a flogger. Are they doing it wrong too? So, I accept that you might not like the way I’m doing this or the look I’ve created. It might not pass in Windsor Castle, but it does in the West End, at Pinewood or on Broadway and my students put it to good effect as they get started in their careers.

Yes I hear you, the roller your using for prep work has a heavy pile sleeve on it , change that to a decent foam one & lay off with that . Use acrylic primer & then acrylic satin/eggshell. Lay these all off well with the roller & you dont need a brush or sand paper (but you can slightly key each layer when dry with a sanding pad) . Thats saved time already & is a basic prep work. Using acrylic glaze tinted with either pigment powders or universal dyes (all cheap) & a wipe out tool rubber/cork/ color shaper , wipe out the heart grain & for the sides use a rubber comb/burlap or flog then run a fine steel comb through the work . steel combs rust yeah, show me a set of well used ones that haven't rusted they rust whether used in oil or water through general use & doesn't effect the work. All of the above is cheap to do & is THE very basic entry level of oak graining. Throw that rubber rocker away & train your self to do it by hand , it looks much more realistic & when good at it its just as fast.

I think it looks very real . Thank you , great job.

@@conmick477 feel free to post video with your way of doing it Sir.

@@mattgloss8580 Dude is flogging his...