Thank you for your kind words 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻

I would get 2 for that size tank or get a sump. I run 2 600 biomasters on a 280l discus tank. Load it will biohome like pond guru shows. The prob with these filters is the flow rate. It’s good for biological filtration. But not good for the tank

@@truthfactreality6814 sump is sadly not really an option with the stand I am getting but yeah, I am planning to use a few different filters to handle the bioload and ensure good circulation.

Thank you Sarah ✊🏻✊🏻✊🏻

Thanks for the support 🙏🏻🙏🏻

🤣🤣🤣 we’re from the same town 🤣🤣🤣 wish I had his money though 🤣 Thanks for the kind words, means a lot though 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻

Yes,Carbon for me is a no no,I try not to use it and if anything is needed I use Purigen. The carbon prefilter is 60ppi so I’m sure Oase could do a standard deep or shallow plain 60ppi sponge,then again you can buy sheets of it from Ebay and cut it to size 🤙🏻

​@@slinkyscapes8530 I could, but I am way too lazy. :)

@@slinkyscapes8530 the heater is necessary if the room temperature does not fall below 22 in winter. I can buy the non thermo version much cheaper.

Oase have a range of Aquariums, styleline and highline which both have lids and the Biomaster is used with them so you can use most filters with your Roma. The inflow/ outflow use 90 degree bends to offer a low profile, I’ve messaged Oase for the dimensions as I can’t find them anywhere online.

Hi Alan,the only problem you’ll have is reduced flow and possible strain on the pump motor (I’m thinking worse case scenario) the strain may make the motor noisy,I’ll be honest you won’t till you try 🤙🏻🤙🏻. Keep us updated on how it went.

Thank you Peter 🤙🏻 I’ve never kept Africans but any cichlids can be dirty fish and will create loads of waste so it may be a suck and see. That pre-filter will stop a lot of the waste entering the canister so you’ll be washing that regular and getting into the canister once every two months I reckon buddy.

@@slinkyscapes8530 Yep that was about what I reckoned. I was planning the prefilter either once every 2 weeks or once a month and a full clean every 2 months or maybe every 3 months at a push. My first fish 30 years ago was an African Cichlid so I know how dirty they are!

@@peterbdavies I have a 100l heavily planted tank with 15 barbs in and I have to clean my prefilter once a week.If I leave it any longer then my matrix suffers .

Thanks Aidan 👍🏻 There’s so many options to start your cycle but I use Ammonia,the Dr Tim’s brand,you can get it from Amazon. With filters it’s always the same order with mechanical then bio media and chemical as the final stage. Your purigen will go it the top tray but how many trays of bio is down to your plant load (that’s my opinion and many others will disagree). Normally your first bottom tray will have fine sponge in,as your prefilter will have a medium sponge,then all other tray filled with your choice of bio media,the more bio media the quicker and better your cycle will be as the more bacteria you can house.

@@slinkyscapes8530 thank you for your quick response that is great that is the way I will do it then love your videos simple and get to the point

Hi David The Biomaster 250 is 37cm to the top of the inlet/outlet connections 43cm to the top of the handle which is what I’d go off so you can get a nice bend in the hoses.

Yes, or you can use the spray bar pipes if your not using them. Measure the internal diameter of the pipe and check on Amazon or EBay, someone will sell a pipe the same sizes and they don’t have to be clear.

It’s not sucking up water and it’s not spilling out water anymore.

Hi Amber Dry running a filter is never a good thing but it shouldn’t break the impeller,can you see where is has broken ? . I’ve broken one in the past but it was because I didn’t site it properly after cleaning and forced the impeller cover back on,my own fault 👍🏻 If it is the impeller you can buy new ones for around £11 from eBay.

370mm/14.5 inches approx

You can, but it’s not designed to be used as a flow control, that is built into the inflow/outflow pieces. I’ve heard of people using the lock off for flow control but I wouldn’t trust it myself.

Spot on, Don’t go off what Oase state,it’s false advertising in my book. The Biomaster Thermo 350 is good for aquariums up to 200l and Oase know this, it’s why they fit 200w heaters. The pump capacity of the Biomaster 350 is 1100lph, which means you’re only getting a turnover of x 2.23ph (1100/340l) which is way to low, you should be looking at closer to 5 x turnover so 340l x 5 = 1700lph pump capacity, so in the Oase line up you should be looking at the Biomaster 850 which pumps at 1550plh and the Thermo version comes with a 400w heater which low and behold also suits your aquarium.

@@slinkyscapes8530 I have complained to Oase, but they insist that it's working at capacity because I'm at the limit of what it can support. I'm insisting that maxing out at 22.5 degrees means that it just doesn't support 350 liters. Annoyingly, I may have to upgrade to the biggest version, but I'm a bit upset that they don't want to accept this as a fault.

@@stefanochiodino5533 Companies will use the wording ‘upto’ and ‘max’ as a get out clause. The problem only really arises with thermo versions and Oase are not alone in this as Eheim also use the same marketing strategy. With non thermo versions this problem doesn’t matter so much as we only use the LPH as a limiting factor when deciding size and model to suit our aquariums needs. Oase even list ‘max flow rate’s a their flow rating and that flow rate is only achieved with an each tray being totally empty. Add a sponge and that adds resistance, albeit very little but once you add sponges and media you can half the marketed flow rate.

Depends where you buy it Fred,in the U.K. it comes with 3 pin plugs,if you buy one from another country you can get adapters which will convert your plug to suit,obviously to stop you cutting the plugs off and replacing as it will void the warranty 👍🏻

I bought mine a good number of years back and they didn’t back then but if they do now that’s a cracking little bonus from Oase 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Just bought the regular one and the adapter was provided. Sooo happy because the thermo is not available here.

Thanks Stu ✊🏻 Carbon. Is good for removing excessive medicines that you may have been dosing.It won’t affect ferts. It will remove tannins and clear water up as well as lower odours but as carbon works in adsorption once it is depleted (full) it becomes useless and then releases the narrows back into the tank. For the carbon prefilter once it’s depleted it’s only use is as a mechanical filter,as that sponge is 60ppi it’s the closet sponge you’ll get to filter floss. Filter floss once full can’t be cleaned,or it’s a pain in the backside to get it clean but sponge can be rinsed again and again. Once you get your filter set up and running you won’t use a different brand again. 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻

@@slinkyscapes8530 excellent. I have a few Fluval 406's i'm starting to replace. Just seems so sensible in design. As i'm now up to 8 tanks maintenance is something we try to reduce although i am a gadget geek I just like new stuff when its good. As for carbon i've always used it in the same way. I've struggled to get some plant growth this last year. I've done something different but I think im back on track and fighting beard algae. One thing I learnt is that it take time. Working from home means Im watching the proverbial kettle boil so this will be a nice distraction.

Hi Fred (I think your in the USA) If your LFS can’t get them then send OASE North America an email and they will point you in the right direction. You may not be able to fit the 300w Oase heat up heater in the Biomaster 350 due to length. The Oase 350 thermo comes with a 200w heater as standard

I’ve seen lots of posts about the same thing you had on the 850T. It used to be quite a problem with early Biomasters but they kin of got it sorted,obviously not though. Thanks for the heads up 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

@@slinkyscapes8530 Even with the new filterhead and the extra part (located between the pre-filter and rotor part) it still keeps purging air. Had no skimmer, co2 or airstones in use in the tank during that period (my aquamedic reactor 1000 has a 12/16 connector so i wanted to test it first before i connected everything :P ) But still huge amounts of air kept trapping in the filter canister. Now back to my eheim 2217 and all air issues are gone + its way more quiet compared to the biomaster. Its a shame cause the pre-filter idea is good and a nice touch to have it in the aquarium filters.

I have also seen posts about this issue however I have had an 850 thermo running for 2 or 3 weeks now but I have not has this issue. Maybe every few days I get a tiny amount of air purged from the filter but that is not unusual on any filter especially if you have well oxygenated water in your tank which is always good!

@TrashHunterS I am not quite sure. I don't know what the old design was like. I have an 850 which are quite new so I presume it is a new design. I cured my air purging anyway by drilling the holes in the prefilter pipe bigger and drilling more of them.

@TrashHunterS I may be wrong but I think it is about the size of the holes not the quantity. My theory is that with the pressure going through the pump, small holes are causing the air in highly oxygenated water to be forced out, whereas if the holes are big enough that doesn't happen. Of course I might be talking absolute rubbish but I drilled my holes quite large (8-10mm) and the problem has disappeared.

These pre filters do hold air, it’s a draw back that you really have to pump that primer. Even when i think I’ve got it all out it still pushes out tiny bubbles of air for a few minutes. I tip my filter forwards slightly once running to get all the air out.

@@slinkyscapes8530 I've sorted it now I fill it half way with water comes straight on well happy do you think it would run a 6 foot fish tank

@@andym209 all depends on size of filter, tank litres and livestock load

@@slinkyscapes8530 there from a 5 foot tank it ran my 5 foot tank easy it does 850 litres don't it I reckon this and my skimmer will piss it I do 110 litres every saltwater changes

This is down to manufacturers blatant misuse of the wording ‘optimal/economical. We,as hobbyists use a ‘rule of thumb’ of 1w per litre when sizing a heater but manufacturers use 0.5w per litre. They do this as they don’t care how much electricity your using. A 150w heater will heat a 250 litre tank but it would be using more electricity than the same sized heater on a 150 litre tank over the course of a 24 hour period but there are variables to consider,I.e ambient room temperature the tank is set in. Manufacturers state heater sizes to water volume as ‘optimal’ and ‘optimal’ as economical as the harder a heater needs to work or the longer it’s on at full power the shorter it’s lifespan and the more heaters you have to buy so using the 0.5w per litre is sneaky in some ways. Variables on the ambient temperature of the room your tank is in is how manufacturers get away with the rule of thumb we use as if you happen to live in a warmer country or have a really well insulated room then 0.5w per litre will work quite economically and the opposite could be considered if you live in a colder country or have really poor insulation.

You have to locate where the air is entering. Any air entering AFTER the intake/outflow will be apparent with water leaking out once the filter is unplugged as gravity puts a slight pressure on the filter housing. If there is no water leaking from the filter itself then the only place air can enter is from the intake, what equipment are you using for the intake/outflow ? Standard Oase ? Something else?. If your struggling to remove all air once you’ve carried out any maintenance there is a way to greatly reduce air inside and that to pre fill the filter with aquarium water which I’ll do a video on as it’s easier to show than have people read .

@TrashHunterS it’s a great job all Oase filters come with a 5 year guarantee 🤙🏻. If yours is faulty just take it back to the retailer and get them to sort it with a replacement or refund 👍🏻.

Is the tank going to be light or heavily stocked ?. Average stocked tank you’ll need roughly 1kg of bio media per 100 litres of water and the Biomaster 350 holds around 3-3.5kg so max water volume would be 300-350 litres,so you ok there for a full cycle. Pump wise the 350 has a pump rate of 1100 lph and on a planted tank you should be looking at 3-5 x turnover so for your 300l tank you should be looking at a flow rate of 900lph minimum and an average of 1500lph now on those figures you don’t look far off BUT once you’ve filled your canister with media you’ll half the flow rate so the stated 1100lph will be more like 600lph (roughly) so your pushing the flow rate in the biomaster 350 for your tank and a biomaster 600 would be a better bet. Now we come to heating,the biomaster 350 only comes with a 200w heater and as your running a 300l tank your 100w short (if the 1w per 1litre rule is followed), you will have to run a second heater intank unless you bought the standard biomaster without a heater and just bought a 300w in tank heater. Personally, my rule is to run the Biomaster 250’s on tanks up to 100 litres. Biomaster 350 on tanks up to 200 litres Biomaster 600 on tanks up to 300 litres Biomster 850 on tanks up to 400 litres

@@slinkyscapes8530 quite heavily planted, with 4 discus and I’m thinking 8 rams and loaches maybe shrimp too?

@@bigjobby11 discus are particularly heavy filth makers so I’d definitely be looking at the Biomaster 600 as a minimum 👍🏻.

@@slinkyscapes8530 great thanks very much, much appreciated especially this time of night 👍👍👍

It’s strange,I’ve heard stories of the heaters failing,I must be lucky as (touch wood),I’ve never had a single heater fail on me. I also have a 10mA socket adaptor in between my heater and socket so if it did ever go the power would be cut.

The blue collar is stuck in the filter head or the heater is stuck in the blue collar ?

@@slinkyscapes8530 what happened was the heater expanded the plastic over time and made it sort of moulded into the plastic so I had to break the heater in order to get the heater out but where the chambers are for the media that’s where it’s expanded so I have to buy a new heater and tray

@@oe57-_-51 yes, I’ve seen that damage on the trays in earlier models. I took my trays back to the store and had them replaced.

@@slinkyscapes8530 what’s the name of the trays you changed too? Or are they the same as the original ones

@@oe57-_-51 they look exactly the same but not as flexible, I head Oase changed materials back in 2020/21 so any you get now will be the newer material.

Common sense will prevail 🤟🏻🤟🏻

@@slinkyscapes8530 thing is it needs to be clean out very regularly and the main trays stay clean they need to be course

@@hakman239 spot on they do need cleaning regularly. I run 60ppi in my pre filters and wash them every 2 weeks but I’ve not opened my canister in 3 months, I don’t have filter floss or anything like that in there, just 2 trays of Matrix and 2 tray of sponges

There’s an art to opening any box filled with water 💦 but as you ask I’ll do one 👍🏻👍🏻

Ciao La spugna rossa non farà alcuna filtrazione meccanica perché il prefiltro essundo 60ppi ha catturato tutte le minuscloe particelle. La spunga rossà agirà solo come filtrazione biologica a non è neanche lontanamente efficiente quanto i bio media reali,MA in un acquario piantumato hai davvero bisogno di tanti bio-media ?. Le spugne sono molto più meno restittive della matrice, quindi non rallentano il flusso troops.