That taxi man seems like a nice bloke glad you got it sorted for him 👍

Only discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago, got a Mondeo I’m fixing up to flip. Been dead handy this channel, thanks!

Far to much unnecessary technology on these cars today. It's good you've the time, facilities and know how to sort it Alan.

I love the skit with Monika and well done on the oil level issue!!

Brilliant very detailed video alan.. just imagine going into a main stream garage with this problem.........

fascinating stuff Alan!! Another tipet of information shared. Thank You👍👍

Great job Monika and Quick Draw MacGraw😉👌👍🙂

Thank you so much for sharing your findings, and solution, in such an open and honest way sir! We have a Hyundai 1.7 crdi 2011 - it has the rising oil level problem as well... I shall consider your findings whilst attempting to solve our car's problem. Much appreciated 👍😃

Hi Alan, watched your channel for some time now, very informative. The problem you have does sound like it could be one of the Hego sensors, I will tell you a little story that would back up your theory. A friend of mine has 68 plate petrol engine focus, a couple weeks back he took it to our local garage for an MOT and on the emissions test it failed the lamda readings were extremely high but no fault codes where stored. So in the end he book with a Ford main dealer and they diagnosed a faulty hego sensor, so it guess must have been just below the ECU threshold for it not to trigger the engine management light. So in your case a faulty hego sensor could be causing a regeneration to be disrupted hence the high oil level. So if you have another vehicle with the same fault might be wise to go for the Hego sensors first. Sorry for the long winded comment, and keep up the good work with the videos.

I have same problem in my brand new jeep in India! I found elevated engine oil all the time! I had to fight with dealer and manufacture customer relations manger’s! Then they agreed to replace with brand new engine! But the root problem haven’t solved! After watching this video I guess the dpf or faulty sensor is the key here! Anyway thanks for the video, good job💐

My theory Carbon build up on the sensor engine side bridges the contact eventually creating a conductive path and it creates high resistance, the ECU reads this as high dpf pressure and throws in to dpf regen mode to try and clear the filter, I took a pressure sensor out of a mk4 with this service oil issue and soaked it in drain cleaner overnight and cleaned it up next day with all alloy wheel cleaning acid. It solved the issue of the check oil error. There is no sensor fault detected unless its open circuit as its designed to read high resistance. Dont know if I was correct, but it stayed fixed

Nice one Alan. Bet you’re buzzing.👍

Cheers Alan! The regens turn the soot into ash, ash that stays forever into the DPF. Maybe after ~300k miles there's so much ash clogging the DPF that it can't work/breathe anymore as it should. Because DPFs have a life, don't they?

Alan, temp sensors are easy to test, my vote is its the sooted up Hego sensor that is either faulty or giving a false reading due to the soot. Rather like the map sensor on the mk3 diesel with a blob of muck on it causing black smoke.

Hi Alan, I have this problem on a 2.2 puma defender engine, and like you went through the likely culprits, injectors and HP pump, injectors were tested and they were ok, I changed the pump and no joy there, after digging around on the internet and finding that DPF systems could cause this problem I looked into that, I carried out a forced regen which lasted all of 30 seconds to complete, so that indicated that there was little or no excessive soot build up, after more research the general consensus appears to be that the temperature sensors could be the problem, next time I get it in I'll see if there's a test I can do with a DMM on the temperature sensors and go from there, I suspect that the sensors may be a K type, a simple resistance check would indicate an open circuit (damaged), or a very low resistance would indicate a good sensor. if I find anything I'll report back... Although this isn't a massively common problem vehicle manufacturers know about this and try to distance themselves from it and won't give any warranty cover outside the warranty period (discuss)...

Have your Mondeo's had this done Alan.............Outstanding Field Service Actions....17E09 - 1.5L AND 2.0L DURATORQ DE-SULPHURISATION

Can't you get all those sensors brand new from ford on sale or return and do continuity tests on the wires and write down the readings from each one and then send them back then atleast that way you know what a good sensor reads and then you can check the sensors on the cars to see if they have the same readings?

Almost certainly a duff temperature sensor - the one after the DPF itself as that is the one that is the more critical to getting the temp high enough for a normal burnoff to work - probably not enough out of range to flag the ECU. There was an ECU update from Ford for these relating to DPF strategy. Not sure actually what they changed. If the temp sensor level doesn't detect the rise high enough the ECU will dump more fuel in on the exahust cycle to feed the DPF to get the temps up during regen - they can dump fuel in there all the time under heacy load to enable the DPF to keep itself partly clean without needing a regen - nomral or forced. In terms of the oil warning, many ECU's will reduce the oil life counter when regens run. There will be an allowance for a number of normal regens during the normal running conditions of the specificed oil life. Doing any regens you get unburnt fuel in to the oil as it gets past the rings diluting it, and increasing engine wear. The second temp sensor should be at least 550 to 600c during a regen as that is the normal start of regen temperature. The ECU will need to know the input temp as well so it knows how much fuel it should dump in to the DPF. Saying that, it could be the HEGO - a duff heater in it would again give false readings about needing the ECU to dump in more fuel. Same for the actual sensor. And depending on how the driver drives it - like a vicar (never seen a taxi driver do that) or like they stole it (more often how a taxi driver would) I'd expect the fuel economy to be much better as well

Yes!! I've waited 2 years for you to make this video. I knew this day would come. I have a 2008 Mondeo 2L diesel. The oil level rises with too much diesel getting into it and I've been changing the oil almost the equivalent of every full tank of diesel. Had the injectors tested, they are fine. Had the dpf pressure tested, that was fine. I've always suspected it was dpf related, but thats way beyond my knowledge of cars and so difficult to research on the internet. All the faults you are describing are the same as my car. At least I now have a little hope that my car could be fixed. But sounds like a nightmare job to do, and I'm certainly not as wealthy as a taxi driver. But big thank you anyway for this video!

Hi Alan great work, I am glad that you find the issue. I think that the best way of discovering which sensor is broken is to catch on forscan or other diagnostic software regeneration and see PIDs. In my situation I changed all of this sensor but for used ones. Unfortunatley it didnt solve problem but I suspect that second temp sensor is broken. It is because I noticed that when I drive and regeneration is on EGT 11 and EGT 12 are almost the same and sometimes EGT12 is lower that first one. This temperatures are very strange for me. CATEMP11- 397 EGT11-397 EGT12- 395 CATEM12- 664 EGT13- 665 Maybe i am wrong but i will try on next week to change for new temp sensor.

alan brilliant vid.

Thanks!

Try to read live data on these 4 sensors while driving a faulty car at different engine loads. Compare the readings against the same readings of a car which does not have the oil level problem. This might indicate which sensor is bust.

I expect the down stream to be main culprit as that’s the sensor that will monitor whether that dpf has filtered the emissions to the parameter. The correct type of oil is also important for a happy dpf but with the stop start conditions of taxi use I’d expect the dpf to have a half life anyway aswell as service interval being around half aswell

Great result thier my pal. #topmondeotechie

The temp sensors are Thermocouples, you can measure mV. Check in boiling water (100 celsius)

Are the 2 sensors and probes the same part number? If so compare with a multi-meter and see what you get. It maybe others will be able to pronge them out from their multiplugs with sensors / probes still in situe

yes i commented this a few weeks ago, my daughters 61 reg 2.2 transit, vaporizer apparently blocked, diesel being forced into the sump oil.

Thank you very much Alen. The 2019 2l Mondeo requires an oil change approximately every 8000-9000 km. Two Lambda probes were replaced at the Ford service. But they recommend that I change the DPF filter now. No any other error. I checked the car with the ForScan application. The car regenerates the DPF every 80 km. Do you have any idea which sensor could be faulty? Should any temperature value in the ForScan program be suspicious? Or is it best to replace them? Thanks

Hello Alan i have a question to ask, i have a mk3 Mondeo 1.8 Petrol and its been having some problems lately cold starts always immediately lead to a stall right after firing but the second time its fine, the engine is not producing as much power as it should i have an after market CNG Fuel System installed and thats how i tested it ran with CNG other than the occasional missfires works great has power but when i run it on Petrol its having problems accelerating its as if the car is holding back, EGR and MAF/MAP Sensors are replaced, I cleaned out the air filter, also had the injectors cleaned and sparkplugs im thinking it might either be the Jump Leads or the Fuel Pressure Regulator system if the car has one because i have my doubts it is not mentioned anywhere, i really would appreciate it if you helped me fix the car because im kind of mad with the situation its sitting at now.

So lucky you got the fusion in manual

I heard from someone that the newer transit minibus I think it was mk6 or 7 they have oil pump issues the oil pump that is in the oil sump not sure if its the oil pickup or the gearing itself on the oil pump

With the ECU requesting an oil change, without having an engine quality sensor. I wonder if it is measuring the amount of time it was trying to regen, and deciding that it had spend enough time dumping diesel in so it decided it had ruined the oil.

Nekoliko čašica Jamesona, šolja kafe i gledam tvoje rešenje. Možeš da proveriš unimerom otpor svih senzora, i uporediš sa novim senzorima, možda tu leži odgovor? Inače, pozdrav iz Srbije, kad si u prolazu, javi se! Cheers...

Alan, you should have used the watch tune from The Good The Bad and the Ugly for the shoot out !

You have a snap on diagnostic machine so why don’t you use the guided diagnostics scope and back pin the sensors?

Hi Alan I've got a similar problem on a 2011 hyundai ix35 1.7d that I've got coming in to my garage on Thursday I'll keep you posted in what I find and which sensor it is. rikky

Hi Alan, I've got a similar issue with my 2020 Focus 1.5 EcoBlue engine and the oil level is rising up way above maximum. It's only covered 10,000 miles. I know the previous owner did 3-5000 miles a year which I don't think has done it any favours. Everyone appears stumped by this. Might show your video!

Well done doctor Alan,another patient on the road lol

Are those noose's in the background for the REALLY difficult jobs ?!!

@Alan Howatt greetings from Australia. My wife has a Mk5 2 litre diesel Mondeo that has just started to make a ticking/rattling noise that sounds as if it is coming from the top of the engine. The noise is very loud at idle and goes away at around 1500rpm. It has been suggested to me that this may be a faulty vacuum control purge valve. Is this something that you've come across before? Cheers from downunder.

I've an identical issue with a 2017 new shape i30 1.6 Diesel, and its seems its common on this model too

Bank2 temperature sensor, I've a 1.5tdci courier with same issues, been into stealerships numerous times

Thought you were referring to fuel prices for a minute 😄

I drive a ford custom van a 65 plate. Sometimes when it gets warm the tick over revs speed up. It gets very noisy sounds like the air filter box is missing like when you fit a k and n air filter. It gets hard to drive as well and stalls easy. So could that be it doing a re gen?

I'm having same problem with my focus st3 2.0 tdci. Need to change oil every 1k miles and fuel consumption is 2ltrs/100km higher than showing on dash. Changed injectors already

Mega interesting Alan! My 2015 focus st diesel has recently suffered this..the garage thought it was the high pressure fuel pump initially, I thought failed regen.... time will tell if it happens again... im pricing up all those sensors already!

Alan, hello.. I have a problem, also related to dpf.. one of the sensors shows me 3000 degrees Celsius, (Catemp 12- 3004° catalyst temperature in block 1, sensor 2) .. ok.. which is sensor 2 ? Ford Mondeo Mk5 2.0 tdci 150 HP. ..thanks

Id say the reason it's coming on @Alan Howett is the Oil Dilution sensor, if it fails regeneration, it dumps excess diesel into the oil which thins the oil up and then sets off the oil change required message. As long as the driver gets a good run for about 20 mins at about 60mph once a week then it should be fine. Revs need to be between 1.5-3k rpm for it to get hot enough. This is what I've got from the Ford Handbook and from the dealership.

Thanks

Two week shifts ! Shhhhsshsh Health & Safety ! Mums the word! 😅

Its the dpf, regenation too frequent causing oil dilution Edit: the dpf might have too much ash in it which causes it to clog too fast therefore too many regens too often

If that soot pipe is pressured to like a pipe it would be like a vacuum pipe would possibly cause the pressure of the oil to rise up like that but I'm not a mechanic

❤ Very interesting...

Sounds to me that one of them hego sensors was faulty and telling the engine ecu to inject more fuel and then the diesel is leaking past the injector in the rocker cover and mixing with the oil up the top

Had this same problem on works transit , so it's coursed by too much deisel been sprayed into the dpf /I still don't understand how it ends up in oil. Must over fill chambers piston rings ends up in oil!!! It's a crap idea dpfs old gas get sent round and round the engine!!!

My guess without any data is a temp sensor. The one inside the dpf itself. If it ain't getting hot enough then the ECU will try DUMPING fuel in to raise the temperature up. But view all from cold and rev it up till they stop climbing and then watchbthem fall

Where's that music from? It seems so familiar

Hi Alan, I am in Australia and have a Ford Mondeo 2015 MK5 and have the exact problem that you have described. "Change Engine Oil Required", "Rising oil Levels". After watching your solution here, I purchased a 2019 Mondeo DPF at a car wrecker for $325 Australian dollars with only 19000 Kilometers on it. The DPF came complete with all of the sensors connected and we intend to replace the whole DPF with the new sensors. My question is does the ECU require a "Remap" or can it just be changed. I have been going through this problem with no mechanics knowing what was causing my high fuel and constant oil change required light coming on. I'm booked in to have the DPF changed on Thursday so hopefully it doesn't need a remap as it is not going to a Ford Dealer. Your advice would be appreciated greatly. Thanks for the great videos

I have a question too... mk5 do use still fuel to clean dpf? It's not adblue still? I know dw10fud engines (which are on mk5 and peugeot boxer) are using adblue

Well done 😂🙏 what a pain,, but you got there,, my citreon relay van,, sticky egr valve, throwing up 4 codes maf map dpf atomiser and regeneration criteria not met,, then egr obviously must have got moving, and those other codes also went away, problem with this van is ticking over a lot to run inverter for tools,, I'll change egr and maybe get dpf cleaned, bastard van 🇨🇮

Hi Alan I was just wondering is the mk5 dpf the same as the ford galaxy yr 16+.

Thankiou❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

and people ask why i still drive a tatty 1996 citroen zx diesel (non turbo) with 348,000 miles (original engine, never rebuilt, still has the honing marks on the bores. just likes blowing the head gasket every 2 years- 40k miles) as a daily driver (also have a mk5 cortina 2litre gl estate as back up) 😁😁 the value of both is probably the same as a new dpf from ford 👍

Hi Alan, what causes the oil level to rise if its not fuel?

Can you remove dpf on mk5 mondeo without removing subframe?

Alan grande merccanico

my 10 pence worth it will be the second temperature sensor not reading correctly 1.5 diesel in Nissans suffer from the temperature sensor failing to the point that the DPF will become so blocked the engine won't start no fault codes it will be the temperature sensor

Dont throw out a DPF! Try cleaning it first. Step one dishwasher powder soak and flow to degrease/desoot to allow step 2 oxalic acid soak and flow to dissolve the ash.

Thanks. Maybe i missed something but how can a blocky DPF cause the physical oil level on the dipstick to rise.????

I have a mk4 kia sportage 1.7 diesel, oil level was high, about half cm above max. I done an oil change on it, drove 500 miles and it's back to being high again 😳

i have this problem on mondeo mk4 i change oil 1 time and i wait now to rise again :))

Can you help, ESP light staying on at ignition but going off as soon as car moves. Seems to happen more on cold start than hot. No codes. Any ideas?

All this sounds very familiar to me. My car has the 2.2 175 engine and it is constantly filling the oil for me ( over about 6000 mile from min to max on the dipstick) all i have seen on mine is the temperature sensors and rubber hoses never seen the hego sensor and there defo isnt a 2nd hego sensor ..... Its known issue with the 2.2 and the dpf as on the early engine ( 175bhp) it uses the engine injectors rather than a vaporizer.... As it does the dpf it injects on the exhaust stroke and it puts the diesel down the exhaust to start the regen..... However it also ends up in the sump as it gets past the piston rings .... Also there was a known issue on the 2.2 where the oil quality sensor /however it works it out was to sensitive and there was a newer software for the ecu to fix the quality issue. Also made the regen run diffrently . Intresting that they have gone back to using the engine injectors rather than the vaporiser like the later mk4.....

Water fights should be kept to the Summer time, T shirts and not Coats😂😂😂

Im using brake pipe nut spanner for that job

The Moni shot lol

The question I have how is the oil level going up ,how is it pumping diesel into the sump

👍👍👍

Are both hego sensors the same part?

I change the oil at 9000 intervals-always confuses me is having reset the engine oil life when I look at it sometimes and it’s 30 and 40% left and it’s only Maybe done 5000 miles-I could never understand it, thinking it was based on mileage alone, Only. i.e. 18,000

That is common problem for 2 liter engines on ford, and volvo with this engine. And fault is on ecu/software. Dpf regeneration stays on, it makes it all time, and oil will raise because make regeneration all times. Fuel goes to oil.

I reckon it's the grey looking sensor

My educated guess is that the sensors were ok and at the mileage of near 300k miles you would inevitably have some level of ash in the DPF effectively reducing the capacity to accumulate the soot. That means more frequent regens. During each regen small amount of fuel injected in the exhaust stroke of the piston which is pushed to DPF to ignite soot, passes the piston rings and dilutes the oil. I think computer can calculate oil deterioration taking into account frequency and conditions of regens. As you mentioned using alegorythm. Hence message on the dash to change oil! That is also why it is important to use low SAPS oils to manufacturers specs. There is a service that I used which will flush out not only soot but also ash content of the DPF which restores it to near new condition. They're called DPF Cleaning Services and are based near Stansted Airport. They cleaned my Mazda's DPF with great success. On similar note my friends Chevrolet Captiva 2.0d also has DPF and demands new oil with a spanner light every 6 months. However, engine oil level never raises. She mainly does short distances and due to spanner light has new oil every 6k miles approximately but don't hold me to it. I just change it when I get a call from her 🤣

Yo´ve got your own oil production…

Alan, this is weird, does the mk5 not use a fuel vaporiser then? The mk4 dilutes oil with unused fuel when regens fail etc, but the mk4.5 facelift doesn't, but the mk5 does? 😂 another reason why the mk4.5 is better than the mk5

Well I currently have this problem,I’ve changed the top Hego sensor and that didn’t make any difference ,so I’ll try thr green temp sensors next as there isn’t many dpfs for sale

nissan/mitzi boy here. those temp sensors can wander 100c without throwing a code, symptom - excess regen attempts, high oil, + frequent oilchange messages. screw the tits off them up a bank +you should see 7-800c . you will have to get a known good one to get accurate figures for your old dogs from live data, but that is what you should be aiming for. PS howdafuk did those sensors come out, never happens on nissans, cherry hot + still pull the threads PPS so monni is a good squirter, ive dreamt of that myself...

Most dpf's are generally full of Ash at around 250-300k miles and require cleaning or replacing, guessing this vehicle has in excess of 300k its pretty safe to say that dpf has had its time.

Use a different spanner.

Get to the point please, it still doesn’t explain how the oil level goes up ! What is making the oil level rise ?

😂😂

Hi Alan and anyone in the comments. Do you have any idea what 'normal readings I would expect' ref this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f6ujjb2T2qetkp8.html I have a P0299 underboost pressure fault on a 2 litre Ford Galaxy (it is the same engine as a Mondeo) - it's left me scratching my head, I got it into Ford but with it being an older car it seemed like they weren't interested (and short staffed). I have left some comments on my video. Can you please take a look and share any advice / knowledge. I look forward to anyones input. Has anyone got the same vehicle that has Forscan who could give me what readings I should be expecting? Many Thanks

Im calling you out! Wear an iron!

Is the business owners plan to buy the last batch of ice engine cars before 2030 make these last then retire, cannot see electric doing 4k a month. I haven’t a clue re what the issue was, but suspect the pre dpf sensor just clogging up and not quite sending the correct signal. These latest diesel (and petrol) engines are incredible re cleanliness, but jeesh when they go wrong my god they go wrong, just had timing belt done on my euro 6 diesel and the mechanic showed me the electronic water pump which only operates once engine warm yet it attached to block and exposed to boiling water all day when running, how it had lasted 90k is beyond me.

okay , i sort of see your logic, but, and it`s a BIG BUTT, if you HAD inconvenienced driver no.1 by changing 1 sensor at a time, at least you would now know WHICH sensor was at fault, and as you have now DISCOVERED another mondeo with potentially the same fault, you could have gone straight to the faulty sensor on your upcoming mondeo, and replaced it, so now you have 2 options............... 1. change the DPF again on the current faulty car 2. or change the sensor`s 1 at a time , i know what i`d do, and that`s change 1 sensor at a time as this "may" be a recurring problem on future mondeo`s and do you REALLY want to keep changing DPF`S 🙄🙄🙄🙄

Delete it and leggit