Thank you! I try my best to explain as best i can without making it boring haha. Have you had a look at the other Puma videos on the channel? There is plenty more to come. Just got the edit the new videos and carry on. Next video is sorting out the EGR and fitting the Air Con Pump.

@@lifes.projects Don't worry you are doing great! already been through them all mate!

Great stuff! Glad your enjoying them!

I didnt notice it actually. I did noitice it was more shallow but i will check when i have the engine in. If its wrong i will either modify it or get intouch with my supplier to get it exchanged. Good spot tho Nigel!

Would it not be easier to put the old sump( of the engine being replaced) in?

I didn't replace the engine. Just removed to do a few jobs and paint the chassis

You should see the size of the trucks pick up pipes at work 😂. Yes when carpets are involved they are usually fitted before the rest of the interior ( that the case for cars ) so everything has to come out to remove them. To my knowledge no the DMF are pretty robust on the transits unless they have been abused, think i only did a few but only due to the clutch slipping or failing and we changed the DMF as the gearbox was out. I really didnt know what to call the channel at first but i have a few projects onse the Land Rover is complete, thats why i called it Lifes Projects as theu are all general projects that people like to do. If that makes sense? Thank you! Glad your enjoying the videos, its early days on the channel yet so al give it abit longer and then i might change the name. See how get on got a few more to edit and put on as well as actually finishing it 😂

@@lifes.projects 👍

Hi. As regards the engine blowing the seal it sounds like excessive pressure in the breather system. Have a look at my other video regarding the injectors seals. I will put the link in the comment below this.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/brWplpSdz9PMqYU.html

@@lifes.projects oh brill much appreciated

A failed oil pump would cause it to rattle however if you keep driving it would turn to a knkcking sound pretty quickly, you woild also have the oil warning light on the dash. Have a look at my other videos reguarding injector seals. They can cause all sorts of noises

Noisy/rattling engine. The turbo is usually the first thing to fail due to lack of oil pressure. If its really bad the oil light should come on the dash.

If its the yellow oil can it either needs topping up or that sometimes is a service light. If it is red then there is lack of oil pressure and needs looking at asap before it damages the engine. No stick to the 2.2 the 2L engine is worse!!

Thank you. No the pump is face fit. Dont silocone it on.

@@lifes.projects cool cheers for reply

Hi thats awesome thank you! The oil pump should be alright due to the age. Usually it was around 2012 to 2013 that the bad batch was made so yours should be ok. Although i would check with your dealer as some were recalled.

In mine 2.2 2015 Transit oil pump has been changed three times on distance 100000 miles. Turbo on 60 thousand miles. I'm second owner. I have service book from previous owner. Old toothed pumps much better than new centrifugal.

Yes the toothed are a lot better. 3 pumps! Thats a new record for me. The turbo is the first thing to fail from a weak oil pump due to the oil pressure. At least its been done for you.

@@lifes.projects after doing some research, I've also found that the best way is to buy the older (euro 4) type oil pump, used e.g. in the 2006- Boxer/Jumper(Relay) with the same 2.2 Puma, it should be a permanent fix, and makes changing the oil at home easier too 👍

@@misiekvuychik3768 did the toothed pump solve the issue in the end then?

Yes it was 2008to 2011 plates that usually had the issues

My one is a 2013 , I believe the transit and defender got recalled for oil pump failure but not the ranger. I just feel that Ford are not any good these days. Thanks for your help.

@@gordondavies-morris649 Some did but a lot missed out. I remember doing some Rangers as a recall so worth checking with a dealership to see if yours was recalled. If its missed a recall they should honour it and replace the engine for free so deffo worth checking.

No however I always cover it with oil inside so its not dry when first starting.

Brilliant thank you

Depends on the reason your stripping it really. Mine was a matter of replacing the pump for piece of mind. If the pump had failed and caused internal damage then yes i would replace the chain and tracks as a precaution.

You can however its a bit of a faf. You have to remove the front cover and other various bits to remove the upper sump

@@lifes.projects thanks for your reply the timing cover is off but gearbox is still in , I see there are some bolts behind the crown wheel

Yes forgot about that you need to remove the gearbox and flywheel too as the main crankshaft oil seal bolts to the upper sump too. Basically its easier to take the engine out to do. I remember doing one still in the van years ago. It was a rear wheel drive and by the time i had taken the front cover off and the gearbox out I may as well have just removed the engine and done it on a stand.

@@lifes.projects thanks mate I appreciate your advice

@@tony-ww4gs No probs 👍

Many. Cleaner air intake, faster engine response, better fuel economy and yes will pass an MOT as you can't tell the egr is blanked the only issue you may find is the Engine management light will come on on some vehicles unless it is mapped out on the ECU. Mine dosent come on as there is nothing that monitors egr flow therefore the ECU cannot tell if it is blanked.

@@lifes.projects ok I've got mk 7 transit 2.4 rwd 140. Will need to order plate cheers

Much better than the later ford 2.0 with the wet belt! It was only the Euro 5 version of these engines that had an issue with the oil pump, the earlier Euro had a gear type pump that was bullet proof. The later Euro 5 changed to a vane pump that would disintegrate randomly, but you can buy a gear type to replace it.