I want to do this similar to what you are describing. Any progress as of yet?

Thankyou @Evelyn March - much appreciated. You can make any special customizations for the Mounts from the vendors I used. If you have any other questions I can assist with, happy to help.

Thanks for those suggestions Aman! I agree with inserting technique typically, it was complicated in this case with the metal frame (which I needed because of the wall stud). PosiLocks are available in many different wire gauge sizes so they are excellent devices if you select the correct size for the wire being used. But yes, simple wire nuts are OK too (again selecting the correct colour for the wire being used).

I'm presuming you mean, still have the new Power Supply at the Main Station, with the in-wall intercom cables now connected to that; then splice the Supplied Echo pigtail (after removing the power supply block from the AC end) to the Intercom wires. Yes, that should be good. But rather than chop up an OEM power cable, you might still consider to just hold onto it and get a new pigtail as they are quite inexpensive.

@@decosse01 Exactly. You said it much better. Appreciate your quick response. Do you see any issue with me doing the intercom upgrade using the new larger echo dot 5th gens. I would only be using two 5th gens in this instance as my intercom system has 2 exterior speakers which are much larger than the interior intercoms, thus providing more space for the 5th gen echos to fit. The 5th gens seem to have the same OEM power cable as the 3rd gens in your video.

@@robertbackhaus8150 Should not be an issue - I haven't got any 5th gens myself yet, just validate the power ratings for voltage and current are the same (or at least similar)

Thank you! Sorry about the links. www.amazon.com/Genie-Ceiling-Bluetooth-Optional-Fantastic/dp/B07KWH57S6 - or the genie web site - mountgenie.com OC Woods seems to be on a short break - link suggests contact him in 10 days or so (should be back on 23rd June) - www.etsy.com/shop/OCWoodCreations You can also search on other Acrylic fabricators (maybe even TapPlastics??) - I made my prototype just with a piece of painted hardboard and a 4-1/2" hole with a hole saw (but not quite as pretty as the Acrylic back plate); I just checked Tap Plastics site - their std template does not include hole larger than 1" but again, you can purchase the hole saw & do that part yourself - order the basic wall plates cut to size and with polished edges & radiused corners. Recognize the hole edge will be covered by the Genie plate anyway. But I would recommend wait for Craig at OC Woods!

I'm sorry, there is no follow-up - but there is nothing I would have changed, or subsequent problems that came to light (other than the power supply which is covered in the notes of the first video). I will say that after the initial configuration was done, I did enhance the fundamental capabilities of the intercom/music system by adding more features to the Tablet, by optimizing the Fully Kiosk Browser settings and adding in an Alarm System control and the capability to control all my Smart devices from the Tablet. This then included further learning curve using SharpTools program to create a custom Tile Display. But that goes QUITE FAR beyond the scope of these videos which is just getting the base infrastructure in place and not absolutely necessary unless you want to grow your system to create a true Smart Home controller beyond just the capabilities of replacing the primary features. Getting the correct voltage for your devices means studying the specs for those you wish to use; then matching up those specs to the size of power supply you need and doing the planning well before you purchase. In my case, the application of the power supply is relatively simple because I have only (!) two voltages in play - 12V for the DOTs and 5V for the Tablets - so you use a 12V for the power distribution on your old wiring and as appropriate use a 'local' 12v to 5V converter for any Tablets. That establishes you need a 12V supply - for power supply current rating, you need to add that from all your devices together (e.g. if you use 5 dots, ensure accumulatively you have enough current overhead to supply all 5 plus the current for the Tablet; now if the Tablet is 5V, to get the equivalent current at 12V, it will be approx 40% of the device's spec'd 5V current - for simplicity here just call it 'half'. So you just need to do thorough planning to know what elements you want to incorporate and then work out your supply and voltage converters as may be required. The good news is you can't have 'too much' supply in terms of current rating, only downside is cost. So you just need to be sure you have 'enough' current to satisfy your system, but too much is OK, your system will only use what it needs.

I suppose you could - the premise is essentially the same but you would have to figure out the requirements for power for the Google system (incl the main Tablet) as well as the wall-mounting hardware for that and the satellites - you'll have to do your own research on that, but I would imagine it would be do-able

My system had a Fire Tablet at the 'master' location (part 1 of the series) which indeed has the automation (for alarm etc), as well as two satellite tablets. For all the other locations, the Dots are inexpensive and simple to provide the replacement capability for intercom and music. But anyone can permutate the system for individual personal preferences.

Thank you @Gino Andre. The simple rule is to add the rated power in Watts of each device which will be connected, to get a total maximum (possible) load and ensure the power supply output is at least that (or higher). This is already a very safe margin as the operating current is highly unlikely to reach the maximum for all the devices simultaneously. In my case I too had three Fire Tablets (one 10, one 8 one 7) plus 5 dots. So the supplies I used will be fine for your application.

@@decosse01 Thank you…I will try the supply you used….

@@ginoandre note that I subsequently upgraded the original one in the video, with a sealed module (see my post in the comments section of the part 1 video in that regard)

I used the Echo Dot 3rd Gen - can't see on Amazon any more since they are onto later generations. The 3rd gen works well for this application because it can flush mount on the wall, whereas the later round models will have to be mounted outside the wall plane. The principle is the same, you just need to get creative with mounting those. Note that there are a lot of DOT 3's on EBay that are still being cleared out, so that could still be an option, and they are cheap enough you could afford to buy a few extras to store for the situation you mention.

Sorry, I was considering Home Assistant but I prefer the look of Sharp Tools. Your recommendations have been spot on.

@@tonyh7769 Thanks Tony! Glad it has been helping your own project! I used Sharp tools for two functions/features 1) It has a fabulous Rules Engine that is more sophisticated than the 'Routines' available in Alexa or SmartThings; (i.e. you can create more complex 'If This Then That' response); 2) it is used to create and display the Tiles Panel display on the Tablet which gives an excellent graphic interface for manual control and there is endless customization for the panels you create. As far as working with Alexa - well you don't really use it that way - the Alexa control of devices (which is excellent in its own right!) is directly from the linked app of those particular devices - there is really no need to have Alexa actually execute a Link to Sharp Tools. The Sharp Rules operates completely in the background - I used that for more complex rules for my Konnected Alarm system; basic rules (routines) like 'turn on XYZ lights at sunset' I would do directly in Alexa (although you can also do those in Sharp if you want to keep all your rules/routines in one place.) I also found it really convenient to use Alexa Group feature to create groups and subgroups of my Lights. You actually need another medium to bridge between Alexa and Sharp Tools - I used SmartThings there. Everything that is in SmartThings is very simply linked into Sharptools. I haven't used Home Assistant but I believe the Learning Curve is much steeper on that medium.

Thanks so much. You have saved me hours of work with your advice. Seems like Sharp Tools will work great as my next project is to upgrade the old alarm with a new Konnected interface. You are the best! Thanks again!

@@tonyh7769 if you are going with Konnected you will find a lot of help on their Facebook support page. I've posted some SharpTools rules in there such as a delayed entry trigger - allows you to enter without triggering alarm immediately, to allow disarm at your panel. And similarly delayed exit, allows you to set alarm at panel then leave.

Certainly! Thanks for pointing that out! I have updated the Amazon Link and also added a direct Link to MountGenie Website - note that they also have mounts for Google devices, if that is the system of choice.

1. You can control on which groups or sub-groups it plays - see the Alexa User/Help guides for how to do this - www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?ref_=hp_gcs_csd_d2_649_1_GZ5U38E9GGBBWEM8_xSdj5mwePE&nodeId=GZ5U38E9GGBBWEM8&qid=1672855532555&sr=1 2. Yes - Use the 'drop-in' feature of Alexa to utilize as an intercom; again, see the User guides - www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?ref_=hp_gcs_csd_d2_649_4_GS3WRTSRKD2U6MCK_MV3rB3cGEB&nodeId=GS3WRTSRKD2U6MCK&qid=1672855415471&sr=4 (you can find more in the help section) 3. You don't really need the on/off switch - if you set up with the Fully Kiosk Browser, you just control the screen going on/off and re-awaking with motion detect. For volume, access the Sound settings - www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=GR9USY79W6NQMJPW; if you have Alexa enabled on the Tablet, you should also be able to just vocally instruct it (same as you would with the Echo devices)

I'm not sure what you're asking about a 'barrel connector' and inner/outer ?? Do you mean the Jack? Yes, the Pigtail has separate red and black wires in the sheath - it is not co-axial. Whichever splice connection you use, just be sure to connect the red (positive) to whichever you used for positive from your power supply and black similarly for the negative.

@@decosse01 These type of jacks are called barrel connectors. The inner part of it can carry the positive and the outside can carry the negative or vice versa.

You need a better Power Supply. I would consider at least 10A. I'd be really surprised if your intercom was using 24 ga wire - much more likely to be 18 or 20 Depending on the length of run however 24 ga might not be a problem and if you can double them up so much the better (I am presuming each device has its own wire pair to the power supply and you are not using a 'ring' where all the current is additive on a single wire pair) - but yes, it will also help if you have 5V converters locally at each device as then voltage drop does not become a factor. Note that Fire Tablets are 5V but Echo (Dots) are 12V.

Thanks Josh M - yes, only used Echo Dots at the old Room Station locations, but I also had two more Tablets in other locations. Those were really added to give more Tile based control, especially when I added in the Security system to the overall system. Sorry for broken links, but these items should be easily enough to find - the Wall Plates I used were from OCWoods creations, but you can probably find in a search any number of people who can supply a custom-cut Acrylic Panel to your specs.

That is a really excellent question!!! I have not tried it personally but here is some guidance off the web - www.howtogeek.com/732835/how-to-use-alexa-offline-with-smart-home-devices-using-echo/

Fully kiosk is essentially a web browser (with some enhanced capabilities) - it has no capability to drive speakers, nor would the tablet itself be able to drive unpowered speakers.

Both features are part of the Fully Kiosk Browser and the screensaver file itself is one I downloaded off the web i.e. you can use whatever file you desire but the capability is included within the FKB platform. Also, FKB will set your screensaver to kick on after x period of inactivity and then screen to 'off' after y - both times configurable. Ideally first get rid of the Fire Unlock screen by using the Fire Toolbox so that the Motion Detect wakes it directly. (you should do all the Fire Toolbox stuff before you do anything else)

@@decosse01 Currently still having issues with adding the screensaver and getting motion detection to work correctly. Screensaver doesn’t take up the entire screen no matter what we have tried, we are also getting a glitching affect going on until we uninstall the FKB then the glitching stops. Can you link screensaver used? And also are the programs you speak about monthly subscriptions or one time purchases?

@@amberbrown5956 There are a lot of 'smoke' type files available free here - www.pexels.com/search/videos/colored%20smoke/; You need the lifetime subscription (PLUS) license for FKB; it is relatively inexpensive one time fee. Look at the configurator guide on their site - www.fully-kiosk.com/en/#configuration. As per my initial reply on this topic, you ought to start with the Fire Toolbox (free); If you end up expanding to a Tile format for your smart home device control, then I recommend SharpTools (which is what you see in my video) - that has a free limited set of tiles, if you want to expand further there is an annual license fee for that. It is not necessary however if you just want to use Alexa for its own built-in capabilities

If you do a search on Amazon for 4.0mm x 1.7mm Male Power Pigtail you should find them. (Note that size is for the Dot 3 - other devices may have different size)

@@decosse01 Great, thanks very much!!

Do a General Web Search for OC Wood Creations - he also has an Amazon Store Front amongst others Here is his Etsy vendor page - www.etsy.com/shop/OCWoodCreations?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=608708481

Wireless Eufy Video Doorbell - Both Power and Signal are Wireless and the Battery is re-chargeable, lasts good 6 months between charges. You can answer from the Tablet or your phone, even if you're not home. And recording is local on your own homebase, no monthly fees.

@@decosse01 any reason you went with the battery over the wired?

@@jeffreyc7255 Several reasons, the Battery model REALLY simplifies installation but predominantly because it gives the flexibility to mount anywhere you choose, whether that be on the door itself, or the door surround trim or the wall - my original doorbell location that was part of the Intercom kit was not conducive for good viewing position for the video camera. The Battery life really is good - lasts at least 6 months and that is with quite heavy monitoring for motion detection. Then simply, pop out the battery bring it in and recharge with the provided USB adapter.

One new device from Eufy that looks really interesting is a combined doorbell/camera/door lock - do a search on that, even more functionality in one device :)

You have Intercom capability between rooms (or groups of rooms) using the Amazon Alexa 'drop-in' feature. www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=GS3WRTSRKD2U6MCK. No buttons to press, just state 'Alexa, drop in on (room of your choice) and start talking when they answer

@@decosse01 is there any way to contact you? I have more questions if you don't mind

Yes, you can do through Alexa

@@decosse01 This is a great update for an old system. How is the sounds quality with the echo dots in the housing/mount? I was curious if it the quality is affected by the mount as it looks like like the speaker is fairly covered?

@@jacobconway7379 It sounds fine to me - I can't say I notice any muffling from the Dot being in the Housing and say it doesn't really sound any different. It's obviously a mono device so limited in that respect whether in the pod or not, but it's decent enough quality sound. My wife likes to set the one in the Bedroom for 'Play Sleep Sounds for 30 mins' - very relaxing :) p.s. The sound is certainly much better than the old Intercom speaker!

@@decosse01 You're awesome man! Thanks for getting back to me. I think it is time to upgrade.

@@jacobconway7379 You're welcome. Dots are really inexpensive - you can always just get one and see how you like it before embarking on the whole project. (you can just plug it in to a wall socket, with the supplied power supply, even inside the mount, just to test it) But even aesthetically it is a huge improvement!