Thankyou! I'm so glad it helped you, congratulations on your project.

Thank you for kind words @Aman Singh - I'm pleased it inspired you for your own update project! Hope we can see your final results! :)

Thank you @Ben Stromski - glad this might be of help for you! Good Luck with your project.

Nice! Would love to see images of your install. Im pleased that you got inspiration but added your own flare.

I’m doing show 15 with two eco dots already set up ring At door side, any suggestions it’s all down on my head except the show 15 side I don’t know how to connect it to power supply yet.

Pleased you have been inspired with a new project - I'll warn you, it gets addictive as you get into the whole Smart Home thing :D - after getting the master station installed I had added many Smart components and even replaced my old wired Alarm system now also controlled by the Master system (and two more smaller panels - 7" & 8" to add further local control, especially for the alarm). I should do a video on that one next.

@@decosse01 definitely more videos with all of that!

@@SouthernBeau1 You mean on the Alarm Panel? I will try to do an overview of that but it will be retrospective, since it's already complete. But I really love that upgrade and it was a great next step once I had the base infrastructure for the Wall Control Tablet. The hook-up is quite east to execute, so even with it complete, I can still explain how it all works and what you do. In the interim, take a look at Konnected.io which is the system I used. They have kits that will work in tandem with the original Alarm Panel (if you want to retain it) - they call that an 'interface kit' or replace it completely - a 'conversion kit' I ripped mine out and completely replaced the 40 yr old alarm module with the Konnected Conversion Kit which creates a new 'Smart' Alarm system. It utilizes all the original door and window wired sensors, but now connected (!!! :) ) to the Konnected Panel. I really should get that video done - it was the next logical update for me, It's very cost effective and a pretty easy hook-up. I even did a new Smoke and CO detector system that is also hooked in to the monitoring system, so let's also add that to the queue.

@@decosse01 wow this is awesome! I’m going to be looking into this as well, your videos are amazing; please continue to document these projects! Such a great information source :)

Glad I could help!

Thank you for your extremely kind reply Shanee. That is much appreciated. I'm not sure what kind of professional you could get to be a one-stop-shop to do this, with the custom components involved. But if you assemble these pieces from the links and step through the video, you can do it! There are really no special fabrication skills required and even the wiring is quite simple (although if not confident with that part, then certainly get - or ask for - help). If you look on Houzz forum www.houzz.com/discussions/4321917/what-to-do-with-old-wired-intercom-system you will find a thread, not started by me, but I have a significant number of inputs and advice and you can reach out there if you need more.

@@decosse01 I think what stops me is the knowledge you all in the thread seem to have on voltage and when (not) to transform. Seems to be some additional industry knowledge required for each component that I am not familiar with. Although I am a total DIYer. I will do more research!

@@shaneemadden135 Most of the Amazon based components will be either 12V or 5V (although Google stuff can be a bit different) - So you pick a 12V supply and if need be use a 12V/5V converter where needed. You can always find the specs of the device either on the product listing or the AC Adapter that comes with it always has the voltage stamped on it :) Check out that thread on Houzz - I'm listed as Ken S**** on there.

@@decosse01 Will do thank you!!!!

@@shaneemadden135 Did you ever compete the task? I'm thinking about getting this done myself. I like the vintage look and feel, but the radio doesn't work on my intercom.

Thank you @Tony H. Glad you enjoyed the video. I absolutely do love the EUFY - I moved recently and replaced the Ring at the new location almost immediately with the same Eufy. The biggest advantage (well on top of being a much better quality video!) is that there is no monthly fee, since your videos are all stored locally. I kept the Ring and relocated it to another location; but by the time you get the notification the event may have passed and you only see live view without having a paid subscription. But the Eufy stores every event for months and you can pull up any date directly on your phone. And no further fees! I can't give you exact range between Eufy and Homebase, but I think you should be able to locate it with reasonable range given you have good wifi throughout the house. (they say 20-30' should be good, depending on intermediate walls etc) The homebase does not need to be super close - just recognize that the homebase connects wirelessly to your router, so just needs to plug in at the most convenient outlet. The doorbell connects wirelessly to the homebase, but it has its own wireless connection, not your wifi. I hope that helps!

Thank you Ron - I haven't uploaded that yet. I actually have to take one apart to make a video (but it's really very simple) - I'll try to get that for you this week. You essentially need two parts - I'll link them above in the description

@Ron Beck I have posted the video with the Echo Dot installs - see link above

Your positive feedback is most appreciated and glad it helped! The jumper has to provide current for at least as many as are served by the jumper. And you need to consider worst case, which is probably when music playing (loud) on all the stations. 16 might be OK, especially since it is literally only about 2" long. But you can also consider something like WAGO connectors (lots of KZfaq videos on those and available on Amazon) - the nice thing about WAGO is you don't actually need jumpers, they come in multiple configs for 2, 3, 4, 5 and even more connection ports. If I was doing this today I would probably use those. e.g. www.amazon.com/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKT2P2F/ref=sr_1_29?crid=3IY7L4QN25W9U&keywords=wago&qid=1642315104&s=hi&sprefix=wago%2B%2Ctools%2C124&sr=1-29&th=1

Thank you Tim Levey! If you look at this thread, you can find a post of mine with an image of that - www.houzz.com/discussions/4321917/what-to-do-with-old-wired-intercom-system#27008518 - I just used a simple 'chocolate block' - www.amazon.com/Terminal-Connector-Electric-Barrier-12-Position/dp/B08NGBQWWT/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=terminal+block&qid=1625879136&sr=8-6 to join the supply outputs to the wiring. Note that I just used additional wires to jumper over to the other terminals to allow multiple wires to fit. (and of course you need separate jumpers for the plus and minus) There are also these types if you prefer - www.amazon.com/URBEST5-Position-Covered-Screw-Terminal/dp/B01CG2HI0E/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=terminal+block&qid=1625879310&sr=8-9

To the top

Thank you for your concern. It prompted me to review your advice and could not find anything related to concerns about mid-90's Bryant, although certainly did find cautions regarding FPE, Zinsco, Challenger and Pushmatic, however all of which pre-date the age of my (former) home. Appreciate you looking out however.

Thank you Drew Fralley. Echo Dots can be used as Intercom (and so can Show Devices and Fire Tablets and all comfortably co-exist). The Amazon Alexa feature is called 'Drop In'. You just issue verbal command 'Alexa, drop in on (e.g) Bedroom 2' (If you do a search on Alexa Drop In you will find lots of guides & tutorials) To your second question, theoretically, it is not just distance, but wire gauge also that determine the overall resistance; thicker wire or multiple wires will have proportionately less voltage drop - I had recommended to use multiple wires in parallel if you have them available - two wires connected together in parallel have half the resistance of each single wire; so the resulting voltage drop (whatever that might be for each specific situation) will also be half for two wires than for a single wire. We are not talking about huge current here though and even 100 ft is not going to be that significant in regards voltage drop (but do use double wires if you can). Here's an important factor if you wanted to test it - if you simply connect your wires at the power supply and measure the voltage at the unconnected wires at the local end, you will get zero loss. Why is that? Because you can only have voltage drop when you have current flowing. In order to achieve that you must have the load connected and THEN you might be able to measure a slightly lower voltage at the local device vs the source.

Look for my (Ken Scott) posts in this thread - www.houzz.com/discussions/4321917/what-to-do-with-old-wired-intercom-system - there is a reply to 'daddyhawk' that details what you are looking for. You may have to expand 'see more comments' in order to see it. Unfortunately I can't link directly to my post, just the thread

Thank you Joel. I've had that question a few times - please see my reply to same question by Tim Levey.

No, Music is its own feature (you don't use drop-in) and you can set up to play in various combinations of rooms, or just individually. There is a lot of 'free' music on Amazon, or you can subscribe to their Premium service for even more content. My wife particularly likes to use at bedtime "Alexa play sleep music for 20 minutes" to play soothing music to drop off to sleep to (or you can select rainfall or crashing waves, all kinds of stuff!) You can also play i-heart radio through Alexa just by enabling the skill to connect to that. Drop-In is purely for intercom (voice to voice communication) There are lots of user tips for using Amazon devices directly on their own websites - too much to discuss here, which really focuses on the hardware integration to get you going. I am not a fan of Ring personally, my preference is Eufy for Doorbell/Cam and the battery version gives you simple wireless install.

Thank you Lloyd. I'm not sure if you are using the term 'surround sound' in its true definition, which would be a digital sound system sending unique signals to each component to give a 3D effect - in that case the answer would be no. But if you simply mean, can you distribute sound throughout the house (and even having selectable groups) then yes, you can use the echo system to control that. The in-wall wiring is now ONLY used for the power distribution and the audio is all wireless through the echo network and you can select individual dots or groups of them to play your music across your dot network. www.amazon.com/alexa-multi-room-audio/b?ie=UTF8&node=21480962011&tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=486616651872&hvpos=&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17683511344788574563&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033515&hvtargid=kwd-884527952779&ref=pd_sl_7tbrpf6pli_e I hope I answered that for you correctly?

Hi Chris - good luck with your project! When you say 'each of my units' are you talking about the original wall stations? Without seeing I'm not sure what those silver wires are, but could be a ground or shield wire. If it is bare wire or shield, probably safest to just not use it, to avoid possibility of it shorting to anything else. As long as you have plus and minus to each device, it is not essential that you use all the original wires and you wouldn't really gain much by adding that to only the plus or minus, without a corresponding extra wire for the other leg. Sounds like you'd be safe enough to just ignore it.

Good question! If you look at the link for the Power Supply I changed out from the original shown in the video, you will see it is a solid enclosure, so the mesh cover is somewhat moot. I believe the perforated cover in the original is purely aesthetic intent. What a user must realize is that the rated power capability of the Power Supply (in this case 150W) does NOT mean that the Power Supply is DISSIPATING 150W, only that value is the load of which it is capable of handling. These supplies are approx. 90% efficient which conversely suggests that at full load output, they might dissipate approx 15W (i.e. 10%). In truth it will probably never see 150W of actual load, even if everything is at full tilt. But it was spec'd for the max rating of each device, which themselves have a high margin of safety.

i am thinking the same.. how did you wire intercom wires

Hi Rosa - you can use any tablet with the qualification that a) you can use a power supply and adapter to suit the model you choose and b) you can get a wall mount custom-made for it. Recognize that MBMounts made a custom over-size bezel fascia to cover all of the old aperture in the wall after removal of the old intercom base unit (std size bezels are probably not big enough, so you either do some drywall repair, or as per my concept an oversize bezel. MBMounts also offers a custom service for devices not listed on his std offerings.You may also be able to find some other 3D Printed mount suppliers if you do a web-search. You don't necessarily need a tablet at all as far as operation goes, it really depends on what you need it to do for you. Since you're more comfortable with PC, there is probably no reason why you couldn't use a Windows Tablet assuming you can get a mount made for it. Note that you can'tsimply seal the wall up if you plan to install a power supply and use the intercom wiring for distribution - you need to fit 'something' that is removable to access those.

That power supply will be perfect for your config, with still a lot of overhead if you choose to add more devices. Recognize that it's rated at 150W / 12A - however, that would be 12A at the 12V output voltage from the supply; the Fire devices are all 5V, so that equates to 30A at that voltage. You would be best to use a 5V converter at each station locally - they're inexpensive and electrically it is better to run the 12V lower current through the interconnect wiring and the converters at each component. Nice idea of the Fire 8's locally at each remote station, means you probably won't need a wall adapter at those locations and can use a tablet wall mount directly. Also, good choice on 8's vs the 7's which might have been a consideration - the 7 is very underpowered and the 8 is well worth the small additional cost.

@@decosse01 Thanks so much. The cost of the fire8 on sale was lower than the echo dot currently.

Mike is doing the wall mounts. You have been absolutely great sharing all your knowledge.

Once you have Alexa installed on ANY of your devices, Kristin, whether that be your Android Main system or your Android or Apple phone, you just add new dots to your Amazon registered Alexa account. You can set up the dots before you even install them physically in the wall. When you make any additions to Alexa via any of those devices, the updates will appear on all your Alexa apps registered to same account. The only 'linking' done by the process outlined in this video is purely just to supply the in-wall power for the devices. Alexa addresses the integration and they link wirelessly over your home wifi network. I hope that explains the process?

Here's the instruction at Amazon incl a short video - www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=G4J44HJJTUC3GJPK. If you're new to Alexa, start with some simple devices like Alexa enabled light bulbs which just replace your standard light bulbs. Or Power Sockets that plug into your standard wall socket. (I would recommend the Kasa/TPLink devices on Amazon)

What was the reason for the change? Was there a real need or just peace of mind or what?

@@SouthernBeau1 Thank you for excellent question - I just felt that the original power supply didn't really meet code, especially with the exposed terminals (even if they were actually inside the wall). I also saw posts about 'nema enclosures' to separate the AC Power and DC Low Voltage but don't see those as necessary (this is a sealed module with two separate harnesses; the external AC connections are within my switch box containing ONLY the AC connections; the DC connections do not even require a box at all (point in case, take a look at Low Voltage old-work 'boxes' - these are just essentially a ring to secure a wall plate externally but are just completely exposed inside the wall. Interestingly I just picked up some DUAL AC/DC new-work boxes - www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-2-Gang-Old-Work-PVC-Dual-Voltage-Box-Bracket-E-18-4-DVR/202664434 - note that these have one 'closed' section for the AC and an 'open' (to the inside of the drywall) section for Low Voltage. So I think this new supply makes it more compliant by completely separating the AC and DC (note that I cannot guarantee that, but to my interpretation it is - and undoubtedly moreso than it was before. It wasn't a huge expense - and indeed similar cost if I had selected in the first place!

@decosse01 I agree that the sealed version is a better idea. How did you connect all of the low voltage wiring to the new power supply? I would guess a large enough wire nut would be sufficient? If I'm visualizing correctly, I'm guessing you mounted the sealed power supply to the wood, the AC end of the power supply is entering the gang box on the right and connected there with wire nuts, and the low voltage end of the power supply is connected to the old intercom wiring in-wall outside of the gang box. I would think this would satisfy code since the PS is outdoor rated as long as the AC cable wrap is similar to Molex wiring. If nothing else it is definitely much safer. I appreciate the info, I just bought a house with an old intercom and I think I'm going to tackle this as I'm already invested in Amazon's ecosystem and this would be much better than what's there.

@@SeanTownsendStormrider I actually replied to another similar question below just a couple of days ago - see the question and answer from @Tim Levey post. (There is link to a thread with an image of how it looks now). Good Luck with your project, I hope this helps to get you on your way!

@@decosse01 cant seem to find the @ Tim Levey post regarding power supply connection.. can you repost

It will depend on what devices you use personally - for the Echo Dot 3 I used, these are 12V devices, so these are connected directly using the appropriate adapter connector without any voltage converter device (see part 2 of the video series). I also had two more tablets however, these were Amazon Fire devices also (although one 8" and one 7") - these are 5V devices, so those had the 12v/5V converters.

@@decosse01 thank you so much! One more quick question if you don’t mind. I’m planning on using the fire tablets in each room. Do you still recommend a 12v power supply converted to 5v and each unit. Or is it better to just start with a 5v power supply?

@@arpanppatel You are better to distribute 12V and then use a 5V converter locally at each station - the reason is that if you send 5V from the origin, you will drop some voltage across the wiring before the station - at 5V the current is also 2.4 times higher, therefor the drop is proportionately higher that it would be for 12V distribution. It's slightly higher cost, but a better plan.

Thank you @idealynx - can't comment on 'now' as I sold the home about 18mos ago. But fairly confident it should still be good. Your math process is sound from a a failsafe standpoint; however note that it is highly unlikely any of your devices individually is going to be anywhere close to the max rating, let alone all simultaneously. This is very similar to your main home ac electrical panel - if you add all the circuit breakers it almost certainly will exceed the total for the panel. I guess you need a USB adapter for those? Be interesting to see how you mount the homepods - I guess you could use something like the TotalMount - www.amazon.com/TotalMount-Compatible-HomePod-Premium-White/dp/B08W6N4LYT/ and either repair the wall or use a plain rectangular acrylic blanking plate to cover the original hole. Interesting personal twist on the project - for an Apple user it certainly seems like a great way to go - good luck!

Well the first answer is that you can have music play directly from the main unit! There would be a few issues with mounting INSIDE the wall - the sound is going to be muffled, if baffled by the main console; and the microphone might similarly be compromised. But if you really wanted improved sound vs the Tablet Speaker, it might be better to mount a Dot (via a Genie) adjacent to the Tablet - while the wall is open for the Intercom removal/retrofit for tablet, it would be easy to drill a small hole through one of the side studs for the power wire and cut a round hole in the drywall in the next cavity over to install the Genie mount (you would not need the acrylic plate in this instance, just the round hole for the Genie) and the 12V pigtail would then connect direct to your 12V connections.

Hi Erika - the Charging for the Wall Mount Ipad and the power distribution for the Satellites will be the same as per the video; Regarding Charging, and battery status, the ipad will behave no differently than if your simply left it connected to your 'normal' wall charger. Set up screen-saver/sleep according to your preferences. Note that I use Fully Kiosk Browser which is an Android app to control sleep and auto-wake on motion detect. The benefit of the FKB has the auto-wake on motion - when the Android Tablet is mounted in a Wall-Mount, the ability to 'wake' is otherwise governed by access to the power button, which is not readily accessible; so turning on automatically by motion detect circumvents that. Sorry, I'm not familiar as to what a comparable IOS app might be that would perform the same functionality. As to Doorbell, Camera and Sonos integration, you should really consult with Apple (or maybe Reddit etc) forums for some guidance - sorry, I'm not an Apple user so can't give any meaningful advice in that regard as to how to integrate those devices to the ipad. At least however, I would expect the Sonos should be straight forward, Alexa should be able to communicate directly with that via bluetooth.

See my answer to same question by @Tim Levey further below

Show 15 is 18V

It COULD be- depending on what you want to do with it - if just Amazon functions, then probably yes. However if you want to do other things, like adding pretty much ANY Android app you want, then the Fire 10 has more capability in that regard. (I wanted to integrate things like my Alarm control and all my Smart devices onto it) And you're not limited to the Fire - you can use an Android Tablet from just about any manufacturer and simply add Alexa app and whatever else you want.

It's been a long time since I did Apple anything - but I believe it should be ok. You would set up your Alexa account on the iPad and add your Dot and other Alexa compatible devices to that. I don't believe you can get Fully Kiosk Browser for IOS, but there may be other alternatives. It just depends on what you want to do besides just intercom and music and the interface you want.

Doing a wired doorbell just adds more headache than is worth what might seem as an advantage (not having to recharge the battery) - I just replied to a similar question only a few days ago, if you look through all the comments (sort by newest). The issues with wiring - you need to keep (or possibly even replace) the old transformer to provide the power for the video bell; the placement of an old-school door bell push button is rarely in the ideal place for a video bell (typically these are often much lower or off to the side); the shape is almost certainly completely different (i.e. an old intercom type of station) than a video bell, so you will have to do some kind of adapter plate to mount the new video bell. Just go with a rechargeable and save a lot of hassle

Probably not Cristina - but you can still use similar process to convert the ceiling speakers to dots (those same mounts as per the second video linked in the description) will also hold them in place even if upside down i.e. a ceiling!) If your doorbell is linked into your Intercom, then most likely you will have to replace that also.

@@decosse01 thanks for the response i will most likely be updating them as well not sure yet but maybe some sort of Bluetooth speakers. Thanks for you video I have been looking for solution to update my old intercom system with better technology and this is perfect.

@deelytefulnurse - there are a couple of ways you could go; the first is to use a technology called POE - Power Over Ethernet - this is normally used to transfer both LAN signal and Power to a device over the same ethernet cable, originating from a POE equipped Router or Switch; then you would need a local device at each room location to break out from the RJ45 connector to separate outputs for your 12V and the LAN signal (you wouldn't be using the latter component of course as the DOTs are wifi); so you would need a POE Injector and a POE equipped switch at the source and a POE splitter at each Room Location and simply plug your already terminated RJ45 CAT5 cables in at each end. The second way to go, follows the same basic premise as the analog system per the video tutorial, where you would simply be utilizing the cat 5 cable as nothing more than a multi-conductor cable - you just cut the connectors off and strip the outer shield, then connect as many pairs as you choose to carry your + & - 12V.

Send me a message and we can chat about it - I have 5 wall stations to go with, was going to Ebay it all - for someone with an age-appropriate home this could be nice

@@decosse01 cheers fella, but send you a msg where? maybe i don't know how to youtube...

@@decosse01 still dunno where to send you a msg fella, i don't see your email or anything on this channel... cheers you can get me at evoluzione at gmail though

click on the 'contact us' link at the top of their page and spec what you need

with amazon devices you use their drop in feature on alexa for intercom. look through other q & a below to see my other responses on that feature

I ask because I get calls on these all the time as an electrical contractor in DFW area and I have to tell the people all the time. This is something I just do not offer in service.

It's actually two separate insulated cords - one is the 3-conductor AC Input and the other is the 2-conductor DC Output. It's just as easy, if perhaps even easier, to install the sealed one because of those input and output cables already being connected; so just need to connect the AC inside a junction box to your incoming Line Romex, and the output to a connector block.

your mb mount link is not working

@@mikedaifallah8023 I can't speak to what is wrong with his website - do a search for 'Makes by Mike' - his ETSY site is still valid.

You can't really make a 'dumb' doorbell (switch) integrate to the Dots' Audio system - the best plan would be to switch to a video doorbell, which will work nicely and give you either a chime or even a verbal announcement "Someone is at the doorbell" - or any other phrase of your choosing. And you will also be able to view the image on your central Tablet, as well as your phone(s). You can go completely wireless on a video doorbell - my personal preference is Eufy. Going wireless (i.e. a battery model, not just wifi signal) gives you more flexibility on doorbell camera mounting location, vs one that is powered from the wiring; if you were to use the existing doorbell wiring, even for something like a Ring, you would need to retain the original ac transformer just to power it, as well as the power supply for the dots. Better to just go completely wireless for all the advantages that brings.

The first thing would be to validate that that you have the input wired correctly and the breaker is back on and you have the 115 at the input power connection terminal (Black Wire on 'L') - test with a non-contact voltage tester or a voltmeter. Now the supply is short-circuit protected, so if you have a problem with your output wiring connections, then it would cause the output to shut off; so power off breaker, then disconnect all your ouput wires and then power it back on; if you have a voltmeter, check to see if you now have 12V between the +V and -V terminals; There is more chance you may have done something wrong with the in-wall wiring to the DOTs than the 12V/5V for the Tablet; if you don't have a DC voltmeter then proceed to connect ONLY the 12V/5V converter and connect that into your tablet, turn on breaker and see if tablet now shows it's connected for charging. If that works, then you need to see what you may have done wrong with the wiring going to the DOTs. Respond to this with the status after you check with NO output devices connected and then with only the 12V/5V connected; if those are both good then we can cover the inter-connect wiring for the DOTs again.

No, you can't do that Rocky - you need to install a power supply. I presume you are just abandoning the intercom capability so you can re-purpose the wiring; but you need to install a power supply to which you must connect the wiring feeding the stations, having disconnected it from the master station within that module. You can leave the master in place if that is what you want for now, but you will still have to get in there to access the wiring and find somewhere to install the power supply, which you will need to connect to the ac supply coming into the unit BEFORE the transformer.

@@decosse01 Understood. Not sure why I thought there was power going to the individual stations. Is there any way you can tell me the exact power supply you purchased.

@@user-bo1ml5tr3h it's in the description notes

@@decosse01 Ok. Sorry to ask so many questions. I'd most definitely be willing to pay you for your time. Here's where I am. I purchased the power supply in your notes above. (120v down to 12v). I wired the live wire from the power supply into the incoming live wire. Same with neutral wire and ground wire. Power supply is producing 12 volts on the output side. On the wires going into the sub rooms, I have the red/white combined and the green/black combined as you suggested. I connected the red/white to the red wire on the output side of the power supply. I connected the green/black to the black wire on the output side of the power supply. I have the Amazon dot connected in the bedroom. It plays perfectly fine for about 15 minutes, then shuts off. I still see lights on the amazon dot. I have another amazon dot sitting right next to it on the table in the same room that plays for as long as I want, so I know it's not a connectivity/wifi issue. I've tried multiple amazon dots and they all do the same thing while connected to the red/white and green/black. Is there something obvious here. Again, you can send me your venmo and I will compensate you for your time.

@user-bo1ml5tr3h have you disconnected EVERY other original satellites from the wiring? I.e. not just at location you are replacing, they must ALL be disconnected

great question Amber! I actually DID have one in the original system which was similar to the room stations in regard of 2-way communication. I did not replace/re-integrate that directly but installed a new Video Doorbell; my preference here was the Battery Powered Wireless Eufy. Eufy stores all the video locally so there is no subscription fee, unlike Ring. And the quality is far superior too! The original bell-push/intercom location was not conducive for video so the new one locates right on the Door Jamb - being completely wireless lets you mount it in the optimum position. As well as viewing/answering from your phone, you can have it display, on request, on your new Main home console; or you also add (for example) an Echo Show into your Alexa system - I had one on the Kitchen counter. You can automate via Alexa to have it pop up automatically with doorbell push, or simply ask 'show me the doorbell' . And of course you can also have it announce the doorbell ring at any or all of your new Wall Echo stations with a chime (or message) of your choice.

@@decosse01 Yes. We have an Arlo doorbell currently on door jam as well we were thinking of perhaps just covering the old outdoor intercom. This was an excellent video and we plan to redo ours this way, thank you! Do you know if the Arlo devices will integrate to chime through the dots if installed in each of the old locations as you have done?

I installed a wired ring camera and echo show on main unit side so I’ll be able to just ask Alexa to view camera I have set up around my house from my couch ring subscription is only like 100 a year I find it worth it for the cool tech/convince factor

I'm out of town right now but think all the parts are listed in the description The original speakers will no longer work without the original l Lcontrol console

Great question @John Rezai - The problem with a 5V supply is that you have no overhead - depending on the quality of your wiring and how many devices are pulling current, you may find the voltage at the local device is less than you may desire/require. 5V distribution wiring will carry 2.4 times as much current as 12V, therefor the line loss (voltage drop) to the local device is likely to be proportionately greater. However also note even if you did still have some loss at 12V, you still have plenty of overhead when stepping down to 5 anyway. So although it adds a little cost it is better to distribute 12V (or 24, whatever you prefer for your power supply) and then use a 5V converter at each device.

@@decosse01 You are AWESOME! Thank you so much for your reply!! Means a ton when someone takes the time to respond like that, thank you! Just a follow up question, which 5v converter would you recommend for an amazon fire tablet (for the room stations)?

I just subscribed!

@@pjrezai Thank you for kind words. If you look on Amazon you can find converters in multiple packs even - some already have a USB pigtail on them which makes them sound convenient, but recognize that when installing in a wall mount, you really need a special ultra-slim edge mounting adapter so it fits inside the mount. So that extra included USB may not be of any value. If you look at the MB mounts site, even for his 'std' wall mounts, there is option for both adapter and slim pigtail connecter. (you can see those in the video at approx 8 mins - same adapter is available on Amazon or Ebay if you want to compare prices.

@@decosse01 Thanks for all the help!!! You think I should go 24v power supply if I am doing 8 different connections for tablets of a decently long distance? Or should 12v be enough?

Hi Erika - I'm glad my video has inspired you! You don't need the dots if you don't want the Music or Alexa capability at those room locations. The thing with a Ring WIRED doorbell is that it will require the AC voltage from the Original transformer, NOT the DC voltage you would need for the Tablet. If the Tablet is the ONLY other DC device you are using then conceivably you don't need a new power supply at all, you could simply utilize the converter that comes with the Tablet (either have a std AC outlet located behind the new panel, or cut off the plug and hard-wire into the junction box). Fire Tablets run off 5V incidentally - the 12V power supply per the video is the universal supply for all the devices - the dots are 12V - but note that I used an additional 12V/5V converter for the Fire Tablet. Hope that helps.

Dear deconsecrated, thank you for your reply…but if you could give me a little more clarification. I did look at your dots video…and no, I’m not taking the intercoms out of the bedrooms, so no music will be going through my ms system speakers. I am going to order the mount for the ten in fire tablet. It states that I need to buy the skinny tablet usb connection to hook into the wall mount because the plug in cable with fire tablet is too thick. So I understand I don’t need the 12 v power supply for dots…but do I buy the 5 volt power add on thru mounts. My electrician did Mention he could install an outlet in the box space where the old ms system is removed. Should the outlet have a USB port also? Would that work best. Finally, I’ve read it’s not good to keep any tablet plugged in all night…so what about the fact that it will always be plugged into the power source. So that is where I’m a little confused. Also, please clarify what we need for ring doorbell wired where the old intercom doorbell at front door. I bought a plate to cover that hole with a hole in the middle to wire the ring doorbell to former wires. Then will my old chime function, or do I have to buy the plug in chime that ring sells to place in some socket in the house.

Sorry I messed up your name…auto correct.

@@erikaparkes3411 On the Tablet Power Supply - if you look at the power options from MBMounts, you will see he has a 120/240V option which consists of the skinny cable plus a 120 to 5V converter. So that is all you need and you can tell the electrician to wire up the voltage converter to the original Power cable. My Tablets were plugged in 24/7 and per Amazon this should not be an issue. If you really want to be able to disconnect it periodically, without having to remove the Tablet, you can use a device like a Shelly Relay (Shelly1) as an intermediate device to switch the converter supply on/off; with the Shelly you can then program it (via its own app) to be on only for whatever times you choose (maybe overnight or whatever). A Shelly now adds a whole other dimension, that I can't describe here, or attach a diagram for - suggest you visit the Shelly Support Group Facebook page (you will need to join the Group) and ask there. But that is maybe getting too advanced and it should not really be necessary anyway. For the Chime, your simplest option is just to use a Ring Compatible Wireless Chime that you can plug in to a std outlet (like the Ring Chime Pro)

This is Erika. 5/22 Can I ask two more questions. The motion detection kiosk you said is an android app. Did you download google play to get that? Amazon fire help states you can’t download that google without messing up tablet. Right now I have to use Alexa wake command. And I love the fire pinkish screensaver you have. It’s not an option on my new fire. I tried to google how to get it. There are only frozen pictures available like a seashore…and I don’t see a fire app to give me more options. I’m not using dots, but was able to download my Sonos app which turns on my music thru Sonos…so with the doorbell and tablet only, do I still buy the 12 v 5V converter power supply you have linked. You mentioned you changed to something different. Thx so much. Electrician coming Tuesday. Erika

I'm not exactly sure of your question, but no-one sells this as a turn-key 'kit' - you have to source all the components and install yourself.

That is exactly the point of this - the premise IS to utilize Alexa (for drop-in and other services) but have the devices wall mounted replacing the original IC components, while utilizing their original in-wall wiring for power distribution. Anyone who wants to just plug their Amazon devices into any wall AC outlet can certainly do that without this in-wall integration.

@@decosse01 i guess. This is a good concept before the echo show 15 was released