That, or use a cetane booster. This is the noise of low quality diesel fuel.

Hi, from experience on other chained engines, chain rattling is I bit different noice and much harsher. However, it’s possible. I’m using a Febi tensioner, chains and guides and haven’t tried the different ones. Let me know if you even try.

Hello Piotr. How do you replace the right intercooler hose on this engine on the w221? Mine ripped and I can't figure it out.thanks in advance

Use thicker oil. 10w60. It fights this especially in non-dpf engine.

I think it's normal sound for cold engine. I've seen multiple videos of other om642, and irl engine sound, and all have that more pronounced knock sound when cold. I think our ears, brain and worries just converge and create a nothing-bunger. It's a diesel after all.

Use a cetane booster. You're welcomed :P

Michael Valdez all the chains and tensioners were swapped when engine was rebuilt...

That’s how they are. I even changed injectors and still the same.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 so no problem with oil change or something wrong ?

@@iglisefa no problem

Okay thanks 🙏

Piotr not yet, plan is to change fuel injectors, but that’s at least £2k in costs...so still saving up...

Piotr my engine mounts are good though...

It sort of went away after some time...or I got used to that and can’t hear it now ;) however I didn’t fix anything regarding that..

This is not normal. I have the same sound in w211, but my cousin in 221 does not have it and I have no idea what it is.

Listen its normal,direct high pressure injectors

That’s my wild guess as well because they weren’t great when tested during engine rebuild. Still within norms, but close to failing.

Jimbo hi, yes I do. Done 11k miles since rebuild. Love it to bits. Perfect long distance cruiser. Comfortable yet with enough umph to kick some ass :) suspension wise, no big dramas or anything, had an o-ring perished on one union, replaced that and happy days. Though mine is only rear with air springs, still it feels nice when fully loaded or empty the car stays flat. To be fair I wish it had om648 or om629 and a 722.6 auto box. The om642 and 722.9 box require more attention than others. Engine oil wise, I use Mobil1 0w40 ESP (hard to find and at greater price, but, from my own experience, better than MB stuff, service every 6k miles, not 15k like MB recommends and you will prolong the engine internals). Gearbox oil, however, only MB. The rest will eat your gearbox. But that’s just opinion ;) The rest of the car is brilliant. Look for long version, much more room in the back. Service history is important, but mine had FMBSH and managed to spin the rods at 180k miles. Check for excess crank pressure and don’t be afraid to lift all the covers..miracles happen ;) Good luck!!

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 Hi I have the R350 CDI and I have now the same problem

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 "To be fair I wish it had om648 or om629" - om629 maybe, but 648? No thank you, too many issues with injectors and and the high pressure system in general compared to om642. Lets not even mention the way it cracks heads constantly between the valves, an issue that is incredibly rare with any other recent mercedes engine. Inline 6 might make it sound good to old schoolers, but it's not an upgrade to 642, at all.

@@arasmuhamed6739 just got this sound this morning in my r350 did u find the problem I have no lights on no loss of power or missing 🤦🏾‍♂️ plz help

​@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 I'm getting same noise now on my. I've looked at the injectors and I can't see any black gunk build up. But the injectors noise it's not this what I'm worried. It's the knocking sound same like on yours maybe bit quieter but on right side as well. Is this normal?

It had a new tensioner and a new chain with all new guides.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 did the noise stop after replacing the timing chain?

@@TonyCls This is not timing chain. Sound like normal injector sound, and worst case scenario its the lifters, which is still just normal sound/normal wear.

This is most likely, some mild wear on camshaft. The noise seems to disappear from 1200rpm upward.

Yeah I also have a GC CRD love the way it sounds

how many miles on yours?

Zocratezknows not sure if that question was for me, but mine has 217k miles...😁

My jeep GC has 250.000 km and the engine runs smooth an strong. The only issue Is that when the engine Is in idle temperature, the sound on load contition Is like a Seal injectors leaking. But injectors and seals are perfect... This strange sound Is only on warm engine and on load at 1500/1800 rpm

@@steve_photography7742 could be injector itself

This is not how a rod knock sounds like. That's 100x louder and less ticky.

thanks for the suggestion, however since full rebuild 3 years ago, this engine always has only the Mobil1 0w40 ESP put in. And that sound is with this particular oil in it. On the other hand it still sounds the same after 3 years and 35k miles 🙂 To be fair, about 4-5k miles ago I’ve swapped all injectors with new ones (well, reconditioned ones from Germany 🇩🇪) and the ticking noise decreased a bit, but ticking is still there, and black smoke almost completely disappeared. Still get a puff from time to time, but nothing like it used to.

Gediminas Rapkevicius i need to replace the injectors also i have black smoke and it smells fuel what is the cost of replacing them all?

Martin Glowacki if you have access to eBay try and search for DieselFixNeuss, a company from Germany. I managed to source all 6 injectors for ~£420 plus 300 EUR deposit that you get back when return your old ones. I replaced them myself, but that’s not a particularly hard job.

Martin Glowacki on the other hand if you smell fuel, especially when stationary, your injector seals most likely are leaking. Smoke could be from that too...just a thought 😉

Gediminas Rapkevicius Thanks for your thought

No, not trying any more. 3 years and 45k miles since rebuilt, and it's still ticking...about 12 months ago I've put all 6 reconditioned fuel injectors. Nothing has changed, that's just how they are.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 unplug your Fuel Quality Mixer sensor, it’s the bigger of the 2 sensors facing front on the high pressure fuel pump. Unplug it and start then start the engine and see if it goes away, then you can plug it back in with the engine running, if it does go away then know the noise is somewhat normal.

@@lionsdejudah what causes clacking noise? sounds like front of engine right side. om648 engine though

@@cali_cal it’s the HPFP, it’s normal noise according to WIS. But to make sure it’s the HPFP, unplug the fuel quality mixer sensor to find out, the noise should go away for a while and then it seems to slowly come back.

Any smoke? What colour if yes? Ann leaks? I’m not really familiar with om646, but that’s where I would start looking at.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 There is a white color smoke at the cold start of the engine. But it disappears within seconds. In the user manual I found that they have said an engine can consume upto 0.8L/1 qrt per 1000km. These figures are little extra-ordinary since the Japanese vehicles that I've used never consumed lub oil unless the engines are worn or oil ring issues. Can you advise me whether this is normal... Thanks for reading

@@dilanthajayathilake7855 white smoke disappearing after startup is unburned fuel if the engine cranks a bit longer, it can be that glow plugs or glow plug relay are bad (the glow plug light stays on for longer when engine started if either are bad) or battery on the way as glow plugs don’t work on full power. Using this much oil with no evident blueish smoke can be PCV/breather malfunction, turbocharger on the way or leaks from anywhere on the engine…I would start diagnosing one at a time…easiest find if it leaks anywhere…

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 Thanks

Evgeni Genov I never really found one. And not looking for it anymore. They are loud and that’s about it.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 the sound it's come to me after changing the timming chain in chain guides + tensioner. When i start the engine, sounds was perfectly. In 5th minute I heard sound from metal particles contact like "thik" and this noise is starting. I have 500km after this hapen and everything is ok, power is ok, no metal particles in oil and oil filter. I don't understand whats is hapenning whit the engine. it's really strange. I think some parts is sucking by oil pump and broke a theeth, now oil presure is pulsating and make this clacking noise. but where is missing pieces?.... I will true to find what is wrong this weekend Sorry about my bad english!

Did you remove chain cover behind crankshaft V-belt pulley, to see the chain and oil pump. Also did you remove oil pan to see whats happening there ?

@@v-koma-li-izpadash-sq6893 the reason it only starts after 5 mins is because oil warms up and gets thinner. Try using a higher viscosity oil like 0w40, it might cure it. Also, the new tensioner might be faulty (believe me, that happens 🙂). If you have resources please change that (the reason it doesn’t clack when it’s cold is because of the above mentioned oil viscosity) if you plan on disassembling the front chain cover, check if the chain has any slack. That will tell you more if you have chain rattle. If you had a piece broken from the oil pump or any other sprocket, or anywhere else, it’s very unlikely that your engine still be running. I put new oil pump when I rebuilt my engine and had the old oil pump in bits...there is no way that any kind of particle can pass through there as it’s very very tight...if something broken of the engine and been picked up by oil pump you shouldn’t have any oil pressure as it would be stuck resulting in complete internal damage. What’s the mileage of you engine? The oil pump wears out eventually and can provide insufficient oil for the engine hence the clacking, however, there would be metal in the oil from all the friction caused by lack of oil. Check the oil filter when changing oil for metal particles. Out of the blue, where’s the noise coming from roughly...top, middle or bottom of the engine. Front or back. Left or right side. Could also be injectors...ideally a videos would give some clarity. I had the engine completely in bits when rebuilding, but didn’t do anything about the noise. Too expensive and I would have to take the engine out of the car because of very limited access.

Failing oil pressure en ticking noise, should check out crankshaft barring

Tony them tubes were oil catch can system...

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 Kokį oil catch caną dėjai? Kokio skersmens angos?

@@nerijusbartkevicius6351 is pradziu turejau Mann ProVent 200, bet po to perdariau visa sistema i paprasta aliumini catch can’a su 19 mm angomis. Slangas pakeiciau I silikonines. Man svarbiausia buvo mazesnis dydis ir priejimo paprastumas. Be to ProVent turejo vidines sklendis kurios ribojo alsuoklio darba, nes buvo per stiprios. O ir visas surinktas tepalas isbegdavo ant zemes. Todel pasirinkau paprastesni varianta.

@@gediminasrapkevicius5001 catch canas savadarbis kaip suprantu? Neturi problemų su ventiliacija? Aš buvau pasistatęs su 14mm angomis, tai pradėjo tepalą per tepalo matuoklę spjaudyti. Teko demontuoti.

@@nerijusbartkevicius6351 pats can’as is eBay uz £15 ar £20. Visa kita savos gamybos. As panasaus storio kaip gamyklinis montavau ir viskas ok...pilietis is kurio pirkau masina buvo idejes 10mm!!!! nuo kazkokios mazalitrazes masinos tai nekazka...pro visus salnikus tepala pute 🙂 ir galiausiai prisidejo prie variklio uzkalimo manau...

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