I use the term, “percussive maintenance”. 😂

I knew a high-end computer repairman who had a hammer in his tool kit. When I asked him about it, he said "That's not a hammer, that's a 'forming tool.'"

Brian this is exceedingly kind. Thank you!

Dont tell all the Mastery fanboys that

@@19cubbies69 well, I really meant that basic mechanical design. But I do think it's true that Mike's tips mean that you don't really need to fork out for a Mastery or Descendant.

That article is still the thing I refer to folks most. For having written with less than 24 hours of lead time I feel like I did pretty good.

@@Puisheen You did, man. It’s a great setup guide.

collet teeth break all the time, i've had teeth break off just from insertion & removal of the arm. the hammer trick is a better solution.

Yeah those teeth are notorious for breaking through no fault of the owner! The hammer method works even when the teeth are missing at least

Lemme think on that? Surely it's something I do a lot on a variety of guitars but I'm a wee bit hesitant to recommend everyone do this themselves as it's rather easy to make a costly mistake with too much heat involved here. There are a small handful of jobs I don't know if I'll ever feel comfortable elaborating on for this reason, but I don't really know if this is one or not! I'll mull it over and see. As for your Squier, I'd honestly just recommend not spending the time and getting nicer pickups. They're fine stock pickups but you might be better served by a set that's been wound with a lot more care and potted straight away. You may also want to double check that the "claws" are properly secured to the pickups -- if they're not tightly bonded, the claw can exacerbate squeal

@@Puisheen Ofc I do understand your POV, but on the other hand people can already find bits of informations here and there on the internet and those who feel like doing it will do it anyway (I know I will !) ; better give them the best infos they can have in a god tier Puisheen video :) Yeah I thought about new pickups but It's 2nd on the list if wax potting doesn't work as intended, or goes wrong for the pickups... which shouldn't happen ; I've spent hours thoroughly reading about the process, also about paraffin/wax and how to handle it safely, safe double-boiling, temperature monitoring and the values I need to keep in mind to keep myself and my pickups safe. I've a pretty limited budget and if wax potting can save me a couple hundreds I'm sure gonna try ! And I actually enjoy learning and doing some new guitar tech things, valuable knowledge for sure, and the DIY satisfaction is worth it :3 It's been a long road with that CV Jag but it plays so daym smooth now thanks to your videos : neck shim, hammer trick, tremolo "clang fix", sinking bridge fix, shielding... she's seen it all ! I'll tighten her claws but she probably needs a good ol' wax bath. The bridge pickup, which seems to have the tighter claws of the pair, also has the most sensitive squeal point (they're both very sensitive tho). I'll wax pot with the claws and cover on anyway, just to make sure nothing vibrates.

hey this happened with me and my vintera jag! you don’t really need to wax pot the whole thing, like mike said it has to do with the claw not properly attached to the pickup. all i had to do was to melt some wax and carefully pour it on the back of the bobbin and then press the claw down tightly, rubbing off excess wax before it cools down. i just microwaved the wax in a glass bowl and used hand towels to hold everything to prevent burning myself. i also heated up the bobbin+claw with a hair dryer before pouring the wax on (did this while the wax was melting) so that it was easier for everything to affix to each other. my big warning is be super careful when putting the pickguard back on, because it’s really easy to snag the claws while pulling the pickups through and then the whole process is undone.

@@Puisheen Thought I'd give an update : So I made a DIY double-boiler wax potting setup that works nicely, tightened the clamps, potted the factory pups, and begone mad high-gain squeal ! (don't feel like I've lost any tone or color whatsoever)

Good word, that metal is not the best

Try purple loctite on saddle screws. It’s lesser adhesion qualities mean you won’t strip screws when you someday need to disassemble the bridge. I swear by it. Loctite 222

We can be TWINZIESSSSS I love you Jason

Those teeth break frequently without modification, and you're not permanently altering the arm. You can hit it again the opposite way

Valid!

This won't work on any Jazzmaster with the vintage style collet, which is just an open-ended tube. Dropping a spring down there means it would just pass all the way through, and then you'd have a spring rattling around inside your rout. So that's a no-go for 1958-1982 Jazzmasters, '62-75 Jaguars, the entirety of MIJ and CIJ production, AVRI62, 65, AO, Custom Shop, etc etc etc. The only models I'm aware of that actually had the spring are the original American Professionals, and those are the noisiest screw-in arms ever created. So, yeah, no

@@Puisheen Ah, thanks for the info. I jst got a Jazzmaster recently and I haven't had a chance to do any mods yet, so I'll keep that in mind.

Oh wild, I've not encountered one that wasn't properly firm. This trick might work HOWEVER I have never tried it personally, so I won't fully recommend such a mod. Try at your own risk/peril

My Marr trem arm slips too. Is it correct to say there's no adjustment option? Did you try the hammer trick?

i mean he vibrato arms not yours ;)

That is done gradually in sections, very carefully, by hand in a vice. Take it slow to not over do it.

I do it by hand, which I know isn't helpful for folks who aren't quite as thick-armed as myself

@@Puisheen lol ;)

I know it's been a year at least but if you haven't already fixed this, get white lithium grease from the autoparts store, take apart the vibrato system and grease up the spring and the outside of the nut that holds it together, really anywhere in there where metal rubs against other metal, on mine I went extra and also put some at the edge of the plate that holds the strings where it meets and rubs the edge of the other plate with 3 screws when you bend, and just a little tiny bit in the saddles if the strings bind and make any creaking noise from binding still. works like a charm