I have a surprise for you: I serviced an Airfix motor once and..........a "foreign object" fell out during the process of dismantling it. So, exactly like you experienced in this video. I discarded it and a previously running (though rather irregular) motor suddenly stuck dead. So dismantling had made it worse. I had a brand new spare motor which I carefully dismantled to see if I missed something. Well the big surprise was: that "foreign object" proved to be prominently present in the brand new motor. It is a miniature washer fitted on the collector side which prevents the collector from catching on the brush cover. So I made a tiny washer myself from a very thin sheet of plastic (in fact a bit of foil which I pushed over de axle and cut to size) and the offending motor ran again. That's why you had that rattling sound which you thought came from the gears. There is some axial displacement of the collector when changing direction. Running backwards the collector disk catches a bit (without the offending washer), and that is what you've heard. I suggest you check out my story yourself with another Airfix motor of the same style/make. You will see what I mean. Airfix motors are very tightly encased when properly installed so I was a bit surprised that you thought a foreign object had caught in it. A previous owner may have dismantled it, missed the washer, closed the motor again and sold it for spare/repairs as it would not run anymore. By the way, I buy "lost causes" railway models from Ebay just like you and enjoy bringing them back to life. So, let's keep them rolling ! Best Regards from NL

I like the way the sunlight comes in through the window across the layout. It gives it a realistic look of the late afternoon sun across the landscape. Internal fluorescent lighting just can't get that same effect.

It’s a really nice loco . I got one when they first came out in 1978 . Mine ran perfectly smoothly backwards but frontwards was very juddery . I later found it was the metal loco to tender connection that was slightly off centre causing the loco to be at an angle when the tender pushed which meant not all wheels were picking up . Pulling the loco was dragged so the pick ups were all in contact . I replaced the metal drawbar with a paper clip and it’s worked perfectly since ! Originally Airfix , I think it passed through Dapol before Hornby took over the loco . These were all tender powered , but in the last 5 years or so Hornby have brought out a loco powered one . But the body is still the same which is testament to how good it was back in 78!

I love the way you bring poor running or even dead locos back to life. Just shows you should never dismiss a model just cause its old

I have got two of these. The original bought in the early 80s new and now hard wired for DCC, and a BR one from Hattons which I was intending to use as spares. However, the recent acquisition is bodily in as- new condition and runs as well as the original, even though the original ran for a year and did not reappear on a layout until 2018. So the recent one is not a spare anymore. I have completely dismantled it following your instructions and the innards appear also to be little used. I will therefore convert this to DCC as well. I have 11 locos in total, including some new ones and I must say that the 1980s one is the most reliable runner of the lot. Well done Airfix who are much maligned.

My first ever loco was a Airfix 4F, It cost £14 from Beatties back in in 1981. I bought a replacement a couple of years ago for around £20, and after a careful servicing It runs very well indeed. Once I'd got to grips with the tender drive unit, I also bought The Airfix Royal Scot, plus the Mainlne Dean Goods and the Dapol LMS 2P all of which use much the same motor. Because it has traction tyres on all of the tender wheels, my Airfix 4F will pull 40 wagons . My newer and far more expensive locos like the Hornby LSWR 700 class struggle with 20.

All i can do is echo what everyone else has already. but most of all after seeing this video and how you went about it, gives me confidence to have a go if the need arises.......thanks for sharing........Tony

Learning loads , great clear operations. 👍🇬🇧

The old Airfix locos always were growlers. Nice one Bill!

I've got an LMS Airfix 4F and I rather like it. Mine is very quiet and was mint when I bought it. Hornby re-released the Airfix 4F in the late 90s IRC. I've got one in BR black. The only change Hornby made (that I can see) was to get rid of the traction tyres in the middle tender axle. BTW the spare part number for the traction tyres is X8331. ATB Paula

These are such lovely old models, these Airfix 4f's. I can remember getting mine some time in the 80's. Excitement! If they had been loco drive, that would have been better, admittedly. Thanks for the video.

There is nothing I love more than picking up a bargain none runner and getting it working again great job . Brian

Wow you did really well with that! I thought the first time it was running that it was impressive, but the second time was even better! A great transformation and I learnt a lot today, thanks

The loco (and layout) looks especially glorious in the natural sunlight.

Love watching you get them going again. You obviously have the patience that I wish I had. All the best Mick🇬🇧

Good job, well done - and very satisfying!

God! You're a loco whisperer! A good addition to the fleet.

Interesting video series, just enjoy watching your thought process.

Great job Bill, looks a great wee addition

I really enjoyed this. You have a very clear method of presentation.

Coupling rods reassembled upside down - the lumps represent lubrication receptacles. Very common error. But a lovely watch, as ever - thank you.

I take my hat off to you. Repairing that loco was incredible. I wish I had your patience. I bought Gorilla super glue a few months ago and whatever I try and mend it comes apart after a week or so. Great video.

What a well thought out repair, even coping with someone elses botch-up. Cheers

Well done mister. For its age the model seemed in very good nick body wise. Congratulations on getting it moving. I enjoy the video.

This was my second engine as an adult, the first being the Palitoy J72. I used to feel a bit self conscious that I was in a model shop buying myself a toy. The lady behind the counter made things much worse by pushing it along the counter making choo choo noises. Like the J72 it looked excellent in 1980 compared with Tri-ang engines I'd owned as a kid. My only gripe was that the tender derailed if you ran it forwards. So I always ran it tender first. I still have it sitting on a shelf in the house with other non runners.

Great stuff Bill. A good repair on that motor. As I read below, it may have indeed been a wee washer causing the 'rattle in reverse' there, you'd think the pressure from the brushes would hold the armature in place, but it still it needs a wee bit help. A quite informative video of the Class 4F, with a great ending and great comments too! Thank you, Bill. Keep Well now. Cheers!

Thanks for another informative video.

Hi. I use Inox MX3 Lubricant Spray Bottle 125ml to clean wheels and improve conductivity. I dip the cotton bud in as I find a spray goes everywhere. Keep up your excellent work in saving locomotives

Another great video - thank you. With regard to the Super Glue, try 'industrial grade' Super Glue - it's like the old stuff and works very fast.

Nice job, I have 3, 2 run very smoothly, the third has a dismantled motor that refuses to be re-assembled. Ilike the fact you are running DC. Prices for these 4f models have risen a lot lately. You have a new subscriber, please keep up the good work.

Another brilliant piece, thanks for sharing. I have a 4F like this, it does run, needed new tyres, but it details non-stop. Warrants investigation but it’s further down in like. I used one of these tender drive units as the basis of a loco I drew up and printed. At the time, had no idea it was a 4F it had come from, just happened to fit. It runs fine in reverse but somewhat ropey going towards so I shall be rewatching this video a few more times yet. It might be my pickups are better one way that the other but seems credible the motor too could be a culprit. Cheers

Good job well done. Thanks for sharing.

Nice job bill really enjoyed that 👍

Great video. Have liked and subscribed. Have 3 of these. They run quietly once lube gets round - I use sewing machine oil. Have rebuilt one as 44560 with righthand side boiler feed, shimmed the axles to reduce side play, close coupled the tender added crushed coal and other details and it looks and runs a treat for not a lot of pennies!

glad its not just me who puts tools down and then can,t find them. great vidio very informative regards sam woodward

Very nteresting and great job. Superglue isn’t as ooo as it used to be. I never stick my fingers together now 😂😂

Great work. There is lots of inexpensive enjoyment to still be hard from these older models. Perhaps try making some plastic shims to tighten up the side-play in the wheels?

deffo good edition to fleet reliable engines have 3 of them for my layout had all three 4 year now only ever serviced em all once they run like the day they were made

Great job again

Great work

00bill... You know your way around a loco. Awesome.

With super/CA glue, sprinkle a bit of bicarb soda on the join and BAM, wizardy. It creates a great bond.

Nice repair....

Good work Bill ,, Yep you are right avoit superglue is no way near as good as it use to be. I use the Revell 39604 Contaca Professional glue and it works even better than the original super glue did. Cheers from John in Australia

Recently bought one of those which was heavily weathered. Very nice loco and mine runs well. Quite like these but the tender drive isn't my cup of tea

I should of put a bet on ,I was thinking your next loco would be either an airfix class 31 or the 4F ,I got my first airfix train set in 1977 it was the doctor X set with class 31 a Mk2 coach a lowmac and box van with a tunnel that had a rocket launcher in it and one of the best most detailed half barrier level crossing ive seen in a British outline set ,my grandad was amazed at the detail of the rolling stock compared to mr hornby Royal Mail set I got 2 years earlier airfix and mainline raised the bar bringing more continental detail to the British market but still the motors were naff compared to Roco,Trix and fleishmann etc

I have one of these one of my best running models it will what ever you put on the back of it

I have a Lima 4f that does not work maybe you could do a service video on one of them it’s a lot different to the air fix one

Excellent Comment - 🤔 (thought was just me) 🤔 - New delivery - Will it work? Will it run? Will it Burst into Flames?🤣🤣🤣

Hello Bill, just found your channel not long after I did my own 4F restoration. Looks like you and I do similar things, I have subbed. So I watched your checks etc, those brushes look wrong to me, like Hornby or Lima ones, the ones on my 4F are small plugs with no taper at all, bit like Mainline ones. I see yours is missing the injector on the side like mine was, might be able to help you with that if interested? Take care Mike

Just picked up another one of these, squealed a bit but I cleaned it up and now it runs really smooth. Tge problem is it has no couplings. Can you tell me what kind it should have?

Fortget 'superglue' -the only thing it seems to stick effectively, is skin ! For hard plastics, i recommend Bostik Hard Plastic adhesive/bond. As per 'superglue' both sufaces to be 'welded' need to be absolutely clean and free of oil/grease. i joined two pieces of plastic pipe on a Dyson vac cleaner ( handle) and that was several years ago - i can even pick the thing up by the ex broken pipe ! Bostik ! ( you can thank me later )

Or if not my motor works but not picking up from the tracks power any suggestions?

I thought it was just me but you're right, super glue isn't super anymore

Bill, changing the decals isn’t a major problem. You can remove the old ones using T-Cut or Brasso and replace them with water slide or press fix BR ones.

Well done. I recently bought a Hornby 'Jinty' and have yet to get it to function properly. Incidentally what track do you use. I find the Hornby track I have really doesn't suit the older Hornby locos with larger flanges on the wheels. Your older Hornby '2P' seems to be ok with your track.

I've got a 4f it's not the best runner and sparks shoot from the wheels but mine is like a odd type it looks like a modified airfix 4f but I don't think it is

Bonus points for spotting the loco wheelset is now upside down at 18:00 ? 😂

I have two of these and they run quite well. The question I have fir you is: do you get a deal on the postage costs in the UK ? Trying to buy here in Toronto it cost a fortune for postage as I think EBay have imposed additional costs ? I would be interested in learning exactly how you are using that meter and what to look for? Here is another question for you: I have a Phoenix and a regular E3000. One runs well but the other cannot pull the same number of cars, it slows right down and the wheels or motor spins. Any ideas? Thanks

Very informative. One question please. Having never used a multi metre it look incomprehensible. It seems to have lots of settings. What do you set it to, to do your testing if that makes sense.

4F 4454 Says No ..... cough 01:42 In typical Airfix fashion, the gearing is as rough as guts. I had a GWR 2-6-2 tank in the 1970s. It looked nicer than anything Hornby at the time, but it ran terrible.

Love your videos try revell or humbrol poly glue works wonders Many thanks

Thank you for the videos. In my humble opinion superglue is only ‘super’ at sticking skin (its original purpose, or is that a myth?). Although the spray activator transforms its effectiveness, with the proviso that you then need to be an octopus to hold it together whilst spraying it.

Hi, I am sure when you were putting the tender back together I think you are missing a second set of gears on the tender. I am sure when I took one apart last year it had gears going down to both the front and rear outside wheels of the tender to power all the tender wheels. Checking other 4F's on sale on Ebay it does show that there are 2 sets of gears.

Bill, you’re right. Superglue doesn’t set as well as it used to!

I don't see you lubricating the rear bearings when you replace the commutators . Are you doing that & just not mentioning it ? Cheers

connecting rods on one side look upsidedown to me !

Try the hard plastic glue from Wilcos.

No, it's not you. I've discovered over many years that there are a few plastics that superglue is not happy with, they're usually extremely glossy, brittle-hard and with an 'oily' feel . . . It may pay to use UHU Power in those circumstances (though it's not guaranteed) and, of course, it's an overnight cure time being a contact adhesive.

The super glue is like everything else they have banned the additives to it so its no good Hamerite paint is an example on old tins you had to clean the brush with special cleaner now you can use white spirit

Hi, you have the wheelset upside down, oil boxes face upwards, in real life all the conrod oil would run out

Some valuable trouble shooting and repair information from you The Airfix British outline Hong Kong made range were just on the market as Airfix GMR for about five years from 1977. Nothing in common with the plastic older kits just confusion arising. As I remember just four tender locos. All tender drive variations of the one you have. First the Rebuilt Royal Scot followed by the 4F, Castle and Dean goods. The Dean goods drove two tender axles. Planned more like a Schools class and O2 tank before their collapse. Probably all Kader tooling in Hong Kong. Mainline, Dapol, Replica and Bachmann and later Hornby all made use of the best parts of the Airfix range. My Dean goods came as Mainline as did my better Airfix wagons and autocoach. If you get a model that failed early due to something simple then you have a good chance that it is not worn out. .

When you say nice detail, do you mean no detail?

Love the cradle, home made? The Peco commercial one is a little tight. Also, modern superglue is crap unless you spend some proper money.