yeah it's for european user with a true rgb scart connector on her tv not for pvm or ntsc tv hacked.

Ordered to Australia on Friday got it the next Friday (7 Days)

The KabelDirekt’s are “fine”. They’re not bad, but they’re not actually shielded. I’d definitely recommend getting a fully shielded cable from Retro Access or Retro Gaming Cables.

Does anyone know the answer to this? I’m also wondering...

These are the ones Ste uses. Expensive, but good quality: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cinch-connectivity-solutions-aim-cambridge/CPAD517/J10099-ND/414256

Do not buy one of these, you will never see it.

The Hama 100S? I have this and it's a great basic option for 3:1 SCART with audio breakout.

I suggest not using a power adapter at all.

This switch does NOT convert the signals, only passes them through. You'd have to convert RGB to component for the TINK Pro to be compatible.

@@RetroRGB Got it. I was a bit confused because I had heard someone else say something along the lines of "you can basically think of the Retrotink component inputs as RGB inputs", and I misunderstood that as meaning they were compatible with RGB and component. I did a bit of research and apparently Otaku games has a version of this switch with a built in RGB-component converter that costs a decent amount more.

It's not good to even have two devices plugged into both outputs, let alone try to feed a signal to both at the same time.

Good question: As long as you aren't outputting audio to two different sources, that'll work fine.

@@RetroRGB nice thank you . also really enjoy your videos , keep em up

Yup! Doing that with audio is fine, just not with video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eq6fdJWnu8DMaIU.html

If you're into streaming, save up for the gscartsw. It solves so many problems.

@@RetroRGB Thank you!

@@RetroRGB Finally settled on the Shinybow SB-5525. It's everything I needed from the Gscart with a lower pricetag. Thinking about adding one of these Otakus to daisychain to the Shinybow for additional inputs. :)

@@InvictvsNox That's probably what I am gonna get if my wacky setup doesn't end up working. Gonna have my Saturn going into a RetroTink RGB2COMP, then that goes into a powered component switch. From there, I have one output of component cables going my TV and will have one going into a MayFlash YPbPr to RGBHV VGA powered adapter, which will then go into the USB3HDCAP via the VGA->DVI adapter & audio from the component switcher. I bought a cheap USB3HDCAP with no breakout cables, convinced I can find a cheaper solution. Mostly just being silly and over-complicating things!

Yeah, that'd work with this switch! As long as audio wasn't both in the SCART head and the RCA's.

Awesome thank you!

I might be missing something, but since he has an RGB modded NES and needs to go to a Trinitron with component doesn't he need an RGB to component adapter? I'm wondering because I need a good solution for Scart RGB to component, because the cheap one from Amazon sucked.

Thats a good question, anybody know the answer?

This is a consumer grade model, not a PVM/BVM. www.crutchfield.com/S-NBG2QEipyT9/p_15836FV16/Sony-KV-36FV16.html Now that im thinking about it i probably do need a rgb to component transcoder

No, still a bad idea for a few reasons. Good question though.

@@RetroRGB thank you for the feedback - will avoid!!

Is this what you need?: www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/audio-video-accessories/scart-leads/Male-to-male-RGB-SCART-cable-fully-shielded-coaxial-75-OHM?tracking=5543fb4c077bb

​@@RetroRGB Thanks for the reply. I'm looking for the same signal over RCA, so that I can input SCART to the switch but output RGB over RCA instead of the SCART out. Basically, if I'm understanding correctly, I'm looking for something similar to what's shown in 9:48 just without the BNC connectors, if that's possible (as I'd be using the GBS-C's RGBS RCA inputs instead of a PVM or a CRT). Here's hoping I'm not terribly confused here.

Well, I think the GBS-C only accepts RGBs over the dsub, not RCA connectors. But if so, you can just use a SCART to BNC cable with some cheap adapters: www.amazon.com/dp/B01420D28K www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-av-accessories/sony-pvm/male-rgb-break-out-scart-to-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-converter-cable?tracking=5543fb4c077bb

@@RetroRGB Ah, got it. Thanks again!

It passes through whatever it receives.

Good question, but unfortunately, I wouldn't recommend it.

@@RetroRGB okay, good to know. Would it work if I had a killswitch for component? That would work like physically disconnecting it, correct?

I'd also like to know this. I want to buy this switch to distribute the signal to the OSSC and Framemeister (not at the same time). If I'd need to disconnect cables each time this switch would be pointless for me as I could as well just switch cables between OSSC and FM. I could technically use a SCART splitter but it's impossible to find any higher quality ones and I don't really want to buy the cheap Chinese stuff from Ebay...

No and I'm still not sure why. Just don't plug both SCART and RCA into the same number port and it just works.

No, only one in each input

www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/euroscart-male-to-euroscart-male-rgb-scart-cable-pro?tracking=5543fb4c077bb

Respectfully, you're both fully understanding and "not getting it" at the same time. The purpose of the two outputs is for people to choose what's easiest for them to use, EITHER the RCA or SCART outputs. What you're suggesting is not the intended use. Why not find a cheap component switch on eBay and use this for SCART only?

@@RetroRGB Hahaha no worries, I'm super new to this whole thing honestly. I only have a few months of it under my belt 😬. I have a nice JVC Component switch which I could use, but it only has 3 ports. Luckily I only have 3 consoles over component and the rest are SCART anyways, But I thought this would be sick all in one solution to the retrotink. Maybe I should plan on going full SCART in the future. I assume doing what I was going to do could cause some damage? Thanks again for the reply Bob!

If you're only a few months in, be proud...this stuff can be REALLY confusing, but you already seem to have a good grasp on it. Yeah, using both outputs at the same time has potential to damage stuff, but there's other solutions. Going all SCART or all component is an easy solution, as long as all the console you plan on using offer both. HD Retrovision cables are a help if you're going component.

If you only have two consoles and don't need two outputs, then my recommendation is yes, start with this switch and see if it works for you. If you need dual-output, you'd need the gcomp though.

If you only use the RCA jacks, you can use it as a component switch. It's a manual, pushbutton switch. If you'd like high quality auto-switches, check out these: bit.ly/gcompsw www.retrorgb.com/games-care-6-in-2-out-automatic-component-switch.html

@@RetroRGB Thank you for providing this information. You've been very helpful to me. Keep it up, BIG RESPECT!!!

No lag. And what goes in comes out - So as long as the console works when connected directly to the TINK, it’ll work through this.

@@RetroRGB Awesome! Thanks for your help! ... especially on a five year old comment section 😊

I'm not sure what you mean, but it's just a passthrough switch. Whatever comes in will be passed through to the outputs.

@@RetroRGB The device you tested has 6 additional rca/component boards for input. On the website, you can also buy a model without those. I just wanted to point out that this model (and also your tested model) has a little switch next to the standard component board and when you turn it on, you can also pass through a component signal to your CRT, so this board is not just for output! I tested it and it works. The additional component board helps me to pass through my component signal coming from my Corio2 downscaler, which is connected to my PC. You didn't mention this in your video, that's why I brought it up. This info might be interesting for people who only want or need one component input and want to save some money. Keep up the good work! Love your channel :)

Anything you put in will come out. Zero processing, just passthrough.

@@RetroRGB I know I'm a year late but what about output? I know it does dual non-simultaneous output but say if I hook up a SCART cable to it, would I be able to output that through component to my OSSC and vice versa (component to SCART)?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gct9g7Oqr6exj6s.html

Good question and an easy answer: It doesn't matter :) Seriously, just get any good quality SCART to SCART cable and it'll work.

RetroRGB so any good quality scart cable will pass through either the signal coming from csync or sync on luma without degrading them?

@@brandinsaurusrex yes.

Yes, it'll pass whatever you send. Please remember it won't convert anything though, only pass through.

@@RetroRGB hey, so I finally got this a couple weeks back, and also got my retrotink today.. since it seems like Retrotink5x can't take Component over SCART I hooked up a Component out cable to it, and i notice the component signal has way less vibrant colors VS hooking it up directly to the retrotink.. do u think its just bad component cable?

@@RetroRGB actually you know what.. i figured it out... if I unplug the SCART cable when using component it passes it thru ok.. still kind of sucks that Retrotink cant take Component over SCART tho, I had this switch working perfect for my OSSC, but now with the retrotink5x its not ideal at all lol.. probably better off only using it for scart, and re-plugging my PS2 and Gamecube into retrotink separately...

@@RetroRGB Should this switch theoretically pass Component without adding any noise if the cables are good? I was thinking of grabbing a second one for my component stuff, since I have one in use for SCART already, but I bought some HD Retrovision Male to male cables, and tested the switch with them and my Carby Component, and i get so much more noise thru the switch than connecting Carby to the RT5x directly.. does that mean the HD Retrovision cables are bad?

We're in the tail end of a global part shortage, so most things are delayed. Here's my list with a decent video on top: www.retrorgb.com/scartswitches.html

Mine was ordered 6 months ago and from what I can tell, the owner has passed away yes, and apparently it was a one man business. Not sure a parts shortage is relevant in this case.

Audio dual output is totally safe. Video dual output is NOT safe...including even having more than one video output connected, even if the 2nd target is powered off. If you're a nerd like me, here's a full description of why using audio with a Y circuit is safe: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eq6fdJWnu8DMaIU.html

No, as it doesn't change the signal, only the output connector.

@@RetroRGB ok thank you that's handy to know. Guess I need 2 scart outputs after all then. The hunt continues...

The switch just passes signals through without changing them. If your device works directly plugged into the OSSC, it'll work when connected through this.

Correct

@@RetroRGB Still cool

It should work with both, but don't forget that whatever you put in is what comes out - So NEVER, EVER mix & match JP21 & SCART on the same switch.

@@RetroRGB thanks for replying. So i should be able to input jp21 and have it output via component?

I haven't tested it, but as long as all the cables (input and output) are JP21, it should work.

Also, these jacks: www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-10-6-WAY-PCB-FEMALE-RCA-JACKS-GREEN-YELLOW-BLUE-WHITE-RED-RED-RCA-268N1-14/112220720415?hash=item1a20e04d1f:g:mC0AAOSw2xRYPjPU:sc:USPSFirstClass!40245!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0 fit the rca jack footprints if you want to upgrade later down the road, though if you know you want them it's cheaper to buy the board with them already on.

and a few resistors, I believe.

69

Matthew Palmer sounds like dinner for 2

Is Bob going to press each switch 1 million times to find out?

RetroGamerBB2019 on point response

@@RetroGamerBB he only has to press it 69 times.

Did you resolve?

@@thefifthdoctor6780 turns out i had the 7th Scart input sent to IN instead of OUT A huge Duh moment

It passes through whatever you send it, but it won't convert the signal.

@@RetroRGB Hey! What does convert the signal means exactly? If I put scart in and output component to a modern led tv, I won't be able to see anything, right?

The better more worthwhile solutions unmentioned are: 1. Autoswitching with the Hydra or gscartsw. 2. 6scart IR-Remote controller switching with the Shinybow 6:2 SCART. 3. The big ass Extron Crosspoint Switcher TOUCHSCREEN Remote Control (iPad, Android, etc.).

Right, and sync regeneration, voltage control, input circuit protection...there's a long list.

Alright finally got through Otaku Games thanks to raising a PP claim, which seems to be the only thing they react to, while everything from their website to social is unpracticable or unresponsive. They have shipped mine a few days ago, but didn't notify by email or anything! Also according to them my country was under shipping restrictions until recently, which they didn't communicate on either. So who knows fellow patient customer, maybe yours is on the way too? but you might want to go through the same channel I did in order to get your order's status info and tracking #. I'll let ppl know when mine arrives for the sake of confirming.

@@vanguardcat dam I’m glad I saw this. Won’t be ordering that!

I did get mine finally towards September. Claiming it was a covid issue. I would've been totally fine with that if they had simply notified me with it. The product works great, but the customer service was the worst I've ever experienced. I got through ranting on their twitter account because I wasn't the only one wonder what was going on. I had gotten a hold of them when I challenged my charge through my credit card company. After that it went smoothly thanks to the credit card company backing me up.

There is absolutely no RGB to YUV conversion going on on this switch.

@@RetroRGB my bad, so got no idea why it needs voltage regulator, cap, and resistors.

I asked them the same question and still can't really understand why either. I THINK it's for TV's that need voltage to switch between composite and RGB modes. If you're using a scaler or RGB monitor, it should work without power though.

This should be enough: lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=149 😉

No. As I stated MANY times in the video, this is NOT A CONVERTER.