Lots of racers running in the Hot Rod Magazine Drag Week are using Gear Vendor's over drives. They handle the torque/hp and can be bolted on to your existing tranny (auto or stick).

It's not just RPM, it's total revolutions per mile. Every time the engine turns, the pistons are wearing an imperceptible, but finite amount off the bores and rings. The bearings, cam and othere moving parts--including accessories--likewise. As long as the engine isn't lugging, fewer turns per mile equals less wear. The fuel savings are just the icing on the cake.

I have built 2 cars with O.D. trans and have found that both have benefited from them. the 1st is a 1950 Chevy with a built inline 235 6cyl( about 250 hp ) a world class T5 5 speed and 3.55 gear. it runs down the road at 2100 rpm at 70 mph and gets about 20 mpg. the 2nd is an s-10 with a 383 cid small block at about 400 hp a 700R4 and a 3.73 8.8 ford rear end. it also runs down the road at about 2100 rmp at 70 mph. the best advantage with the 700 r4 is the lockup converter. at hwy speeds it get the motor out the "droneing" rpm range (flowmaster40 mufflers) and the lower 1st gears gets this truck haul'in real quick. (p.s. the 50 Chevy has no mufflers and true duel exhaust all the way to the back and really barks ). I am a big believer in O.D. tran's not just from the rpm and fuel standings but for the all around good drivability of them. We had the 700R4 rebuilt with the "good stuff" and a 2500 stall converter for about 850.00 at a local shop and it is supposed to be good for about 900 hp. Lets face it, we are building these cars for "us" , to our preferences, not the next guys ideas. so to each his own. love the show and will look forward to the next one.

i have a suggestion for you guys: it would be sooo cool if you'd do a series like everything you need to know about cars. from a practical point of view. e.g explaining gear ratios etc. as far as i know there is nothing like that on youtube.

No body has said it yet so I will. Good to see you back Vinnie (even if it's temporary)!!

You could always do what the old racers did. Pop a highway gear in a 9," drive your car however long on the highway and bring a racing gear 3rd member and swap them at the track. It's harder to do with a 12 bolt but swapping a 3rd member isn't much work especially after you get some practice.

OK guys, sorry I missed the first name of the mustache man, but any mechanic and mechanical engineer will tell you that rpm's kill engines. Now if you have a 454 ci motor, in any shape or format sitting in front of a 4.11 , or even a 3.73 ratio, you're not out to win mpg wars, your out for the E.T. wars or top sustainable speeds wars. No hotrodder, puts a M.O.D., OR AOD Trans in their hot rod for fuel economy or track time and speed improvement. They only put OD Trannys to help keep the engine from having to stay in the power band range of the engine and sort if destress, the engine a bit while traveling for an extended period of time. Just cause you have a Daytona engine, doesn't mean that it has to run at 6000rpm all the time. If you don't require 100% horsepower output 100% of the time, why not back off a bit and let the engine relax a little...

Another thing to consider might be an Under/Overdrive unit from someone like Gear Vendors. It might not be the cheapest option, but it would save you from having to ditch your current transmission, and they make them for Everything from your stock sixties mustangs to 6second drag monsters! Just a thought. Great work guys!

Thanks for posting Jeff. Hope all is well over the pond

I really depends on how the car is going to be used and how much highway driving you plan to do. I'm running a th400 with 3.36 rear gears and at 3,000 rpms I'm @ 70mph but my car is 95% city car. I rarely go on the highway and if I do its usually not that long. So it would be a waste of $$$ for me to convert to a overdrive transmission.

If the car never sees a highway then an overdrive trans might not make sense. But anyone who drives their car on the regular then an od trans makes a lot of sense. Some issues are that with the 700r4 it’s a very wide ratio trans as is a ford aod, now a 200r4 is essentially a close ratio 700r4. With ford I don’t know if they have an auto equivalent of the 200r4. As far as manual transmissions go the T5’s are everywhere but they break easily the T56 is a great trans but even 26 year old units still go for $1000. And of course their are the aftermarket transmissions. Overdrive transmissions are great you just have to be prepared to pay.

Great discussion but... For comparison,I just drove my 05 Silverado crewcab 4x4 from Quitman GA to Joplin Missouri to pickup a 66 Caprice(tank). On the way running about 72, I was turning 2000 rpm. On the way back, pulling the car on a Uhaul trailer,2000 rpm. OD locked out I was running 55-60. Also used 2x the gas coming back. All this to show about a 28% reduction in mileage! For a driver, the math makes sense! Trailer queen? Not so much. My 2 cents.

Overdrive can be really handy in early cars that need another gear. I'm putting a ruckstell underdrive rear end on my 26 model T coupe for hill climbing. However, I'd love to put a warford overdrive transmission behind the T transmission too. Imo, having extra gears never hurts.

Great content, I like to hear a rational debate of the options. I have a 71 Mach1 with a 351C, c6 and a Gear venders that I am very happy with, great acceleration and good on the highway. I have a 71 F100 with a 351W, c6 and it also great for hauling. Both have 9 inch rears . It is easy to go overboard on mods but sometimes a little change will be just fine. You guys talked about stuff being bulletproof, the 9 inch doesn't get much love lately but it is known for being very durable and I have a couple in reserve just in case, new tech is not always better in a restomod.

I have a stock 350 with 4.11 in the back. Above 55 mph the engine is turning over 2500 rpm. Running the engine at those RPMs for lets say a 1 hour drive to the nearbye town is a lot of work. The interstate has a 70 mph limit that I'd be afraid to run for over an hour. I'm adding an overdrive because I retain the fun low end stop light to stop light with my 4.11 but save the engine on the long road trips. It's not about gas money as Vinny jokes, who cares about gas on these old cars?

As a 2nd Gen Lifted Ram 2500 V10 owner the lower rpms and low end torque are definitely partially responsible for the great reliability of the engine so spinning that thing down the hwy at lets say 5000+ rpm would definitely hurt that engine so rpms definitely matter when it comes to wear and tear on your engine

Damn, dude. It isn't just about MPG's. It's also easier on your mind. I have an old F350 that I am considering putting a Gear Vendor's overdrive in it. I will gain maybe 2 MPG and 500 RPM. Not a lot for the $3,300 overdrive cost. It's a tough decision. EDIT: My truck is a 1989 F350 dually with the 7.3 IDI, C-6 transmission with 3.73 rear gear. It screams 3,000 RPM's at 70 MPH.

Thanks team! awesome information. keep up the good work!

Great content as always, been there done that on several projects and the conversion can be pricey.

Another good video guys. I think instead if someone if really worried about fuel mileage then instead of spending all that money for a new transmission I think they should look into EFI. To many good EFI swaps out there these days and just about all of them are plug and play like the ones that you swap out you're carb for a throttle body EFI swap. But I agree alot with Vinnie but thats just me lol

I don't know if you covered this.... but If you replace the turbo 350 to a 700 R4 you get a steeper first gear and better ratio spread so you do get better performance and better gas mileage. So yes bother performance wise and mileage wise its a good idea. 700 r4 ratios are First - 3.059:1 Second - 1.625:1 Third - 1.000:1 Fourth - 0.696:1 Reverse - 2.294:1 I believe the Turbo 350 is First Gear - 2.48:1 Second Gear - 1.48:1 Third Gear - 1.00:1 Reverse - 2.07:1

I seen a ‘68 Charger do 2200rpm at 80mph with one of these on instagram... and he has a 727 torqueflite

Thanks for the show. I've got a 66 Mercury Comet with a 289 and C-4 Cruise-O-Matic that I daily drive when I'm not trying to upgrade it - which takes me a long time. I get 16 mpg with a throttle body and 273s - my goal is 20. I've been trying to find a shop that will do an AOD conversion, but the mechanics I know of that have done several here in Central California are all getting old and don't seem super motivated to do the job. Now that my transmission is leaking and slipping, I'm tempted to just take it to the old faithful transmission shop in town and get a rebuilt transmission installed or my transmission rebuilt.

Friend has a '60 Chevy Apache with the 235 Cu In inline 6. Granny gear 4-speed, with a 3.55 rear. He wants to take it from California to Tennessee, but at lower revs. Looked at all the transmission options...$$$. Decided to go with a 3.08 rear. The torquey Stovebolt can pull that gear in this light truck.

65 Mustang fastback fast EFI 4speed I don't remember what the rear gears are somewhere in the 300 ish I easily get 25 miles to gallon and I drive it every day

4L75E basically a 4L60E with ALL parts changed out . Very Very expensive conversion lockup convertor $$$$ ,, Trans electronic control unit $$$$ ,, but fits a small tunnel If u have a large tunnel 4L80E with mild modification can handle high hp 50--75% cost

EFI on a 454 makes an amazing improvement

( typical) My 62 f100 came w 6 cyl/3 speed 3.73 rears, was changed to302/c4, ( keeping the 3.73 ) winds up tight at 60-65 @ 3-3300 ish rpm, so , these days now getting out with respectability is the thing , When someone asks , either an add on od , wich can be removed and makes them a convertible if you will ,or, a tko of course sounds like the answer , SAVE UP !

I built a 68 Camaro with a 305, 700r4 and a Ford 9 inch rear with highway gears from a Lincoln Versailles. I got 26mpg on the highway with that old car. 26mpg! Granted it was a 305 with a dual jet carb. Dual jet, not the older 2 jet.Good running car, wish I never sold it but I have a 67 nw with a 327 and planning to install a Gear Vendors

How about being able to drive on the highway at a decent speed without your engine screaming ?

Well if your gonna take summer trip driving over 500 miles one way. Just switch the 3rd member to a 2.75. keep your 4.11s in the trunk incase you need to smoke the tires on your inlaws driveway.

AWESOME!!!! Thank you for this Video guys!

Yes, A versus B is great to deal with the overstated claims and myths (and truths) about power train economy, wear, etc. Shoot in Italy with Italian supermodels and you have the best show on the net.

I have a 66 Stang with a 302 300 HP new crate engine. The C4 tranny is bad I’m not sure if I should rebuild the C4 or pay more cash to get an AOD. I’ll drive the car a little bit but definitely not an everyday driver. My concern is high RPM’s in 3rd gear with the C4. Also I have been told an AOD in a 66 Mustang there will be a few Mods....drive shaft, cross member etc...but after watching this helpful video I think I’ll just get this C4 rebuilt and no mods need to be done installing it back in, save money, since I’m not going to be driving a whole lot...thanks for this video!

Have to agree with the economics analysis; to change for the sake of change doesn't give a good return on monetary or time investment. If the transmission needs to be replaced anyway, different matter. Noise reduction at highway speeds is another consideration. Back when the semiautomatic overdrives were production options (up through the mid-1960s), one of the selling points was the reduction in engine wear and tear. It also gave de facto five forward gears; low and second were too close to make a difference with overdrive, but the drop between second and high made second gear overdrive usable, or so people who had it claimed. It was also claimed that one of the issues with that type of transmission was that it freewheeled below cut-in speed, then freewheeled again if disengaged above cut-in speed.

if it were my chevelle, and the budget would allow it, i would keep the th 400 and add a gearvendors overdrive...the combination is much stronger than the 700 r 4 and doesn't require the throttle position sensor...

Funny thing is I got a built up Pontiac 400 and I was debating on keeping the TH400 or going with a 700R4. I decided to keep the TH400 and just go with 3.42:1 gears in the rear end.

So have you ever driven non stop for 1300 miles in a car that has too steep a gear at 55-75 mph and a cherry bomb muffler The migraine was awful I have a 2000 SS w/t56 it drops 1500 rpm from 4th and 6th stock 3.42 gears Ps I lost 4 mpg when the Libertarded leaders in my state put 10% alcohol in the gas How about a discussion on that

Helpful. Thanks 🤙

I’m finishing the install on my 68 Mustang, 289, C4, 3.0 rear. I just want to reduce RPMs and run at modern highway speed for travel to cruises and shows. This is the perfect solution for me. If fuel economy is an issue, you shouldn’t be running a classic.

I bought a gear vendor for My 69 F250 390 C6 3:73 it was a big decision other than swapping my Dana 60 for a Ford 9 inch or Dana44 So 5 lug in rear small brakes etc i could had went with a 1980 ford 4 speed with a adapterplate after you add it up the cost is going to be the same as a gear vendor in the end. With the gear vendor I keep the same transmission which is stuck to the truck and it will hold more value as far as fuel savings I did not buy it so much for that going down the freeway at 65 mph with a 373 rear axle 30-in tires I was turning this 2,800 to 3,000 RPM . I had headers and glass packs on that truck and going down the freeway it was like you were Richard Petty in NASCAR it was so damn loud it got to the point to where all the joy of driving the truck was taken out of it because living in Los Angeles and all the traffic it really sucks to just drive it from stop light to stop light so the $3,000 that I paid for that gear vendor was worth every penny to me so instead of running at 65 mph at 3,000 RPM with 30 inch tires it will drop it down to about 2400 RPM at 65 now I can drive the distance on the freeway to take it to the mountains to take it down PCH to go to the route 66 and do all the things that I want to do with the truck and have fun with it instead of just going down the street stop light to stop light.

Gamers Bar. And yes, we feel that newer engines are designed for better sustained use. Older transmissions are fairly plentiful here in the states.

Gear Vendor Overdrive turns my 4.11 to 3.19 on the highway. Pontiac 455 plus split shifting turbo 400

More A vs B please.

I thought the wear and tear would be more from heat (from the higher sustained rpms) than anything else.

They have a new gear set for Muncies that lowers 1st gear in all trans so can run lower rear gear like 3:08

Personal preference and budget, simple. I’d like a more livable drive, so 4 speed it is.

my dream box would be a toploader with a 0.5 fifth gear , with 4,11s u'll be spinning aprox 3500rpm at 70mph in 4th but slide into 5th and it'll drop to around 2000rpm for cruzing . i hate spinning a big engine for long periods , use the torque :}

I'm putting a 302/aod in my 63 Meteor. The lower 1st gear and the high OD should blow the 2 speed away.

Hi i have it ford van 1972 econoline 200 i nesd transmision C6 overdrive 4 speed

my motorcycle idles at 1500 rpm, running rpm is anywhere from 2000-15000rpm and it will do it all day, i think modern engines can pretty much run at any rpm (under redline), i have heard you should try not to sit at the same rpm 100% of the time but thats about it. do you americans swap in old transmissions into cars? i know in australia some of the old holden and ford models had pretty rock solid transmissions so they are scarce now days?

Yes more gm pleas and Ty

Personally I would get rid of the auto and go 5 speed because they are lighter /cheaper easy to maintain and more fun to drive ,if you want good mileage you have to change the diff ratio to go with the gear ratio in your chosen box 4.11 are great for racing but bugger all else have fun

Dear team Auto resto mod thank you for this information ps where is Vinnie

I liked the VS thing great idea. great implementation!!! My 2 cents are that its about vehicle purpose. I think that the 5 speed auto adds comfort to the ride where any standards add thrill. The question is what is the build for? Sport? Standard. Cruising? Auto..... Everything else is conjecture and anecdotal.

Bolt a Gear Vendors overdrive to it and you won't have to contend the the R4 TV cable. Review the performance specs, tire diameter and gear ratio on the Corvette / Camaro. You don't need 4:10's to have fun

The way you pronounced "Italy", I was wondering if you actually meant Italy, Texas, south of Dallas. It's close to Athens, but much further from Rhome.

nice, do more, it get this great minds a thinking.. also, did I hear you say more gm stuff? maybe I should turn my 64 impala ss 4spd car over to ya...hmmm

Hey I have a 67 mustang coupe that is my daily driver. It has a 302 with a c4 automatic transmission. I was considering changing the c4 to a t5 manual transmission in hopes of getting better gas mileage (and because I just like driving the manual better haha), do you think it's worth it to do the swap ? Also how hard would it be to do the swap, since I'd be doing myself ?

Really how much do the OEM spend on reducing NVH millions. Jeff you went to the trouble to put in crossover to reduce cabin noise. At lest as much because it was driving you crazy as to make it a better camera chase care.

My corvette LS4 454 Th400 3.36/1 posi. = 3000 rpm at 70 mph sucking 9 mph it sucks

LOve your videos...but the guy with you on this one is just painful to listen to

one word t56

Somebody told me a thing 350 can't have an over drive in is impossible

Please stop giggle and answer the question

It's just less abuse on that expensive engine

IMO - Putting an overdrive (and/or a nice stereo) in a classic muscle car defeats the purpose of the classic car experience. If you want the comfort of a new car but with the grunt of a classic, then just buy a new generation Mustang, Camaro or Challenger. But, hey... I'm a purist. ( My `68 Torino restoration: www.mechanknuckle.com )

Bald dude needs to just up and let him talk instead of changing the subject.

Yak yak yak.

the guy with the hair loss is an absolute non factor with the common sense use of the overdrive usage.

Too much bs. Lost interest before you ever got to the point.

Bald dude got it wrong. He keeps equating the cost of transmission change to fuel savings. No a project is a project. If we were as cheap as he is, we would not start the project in the first place.

What's with all the BS, just get to what the show is about.

That whole show was a waste of time.

God it's like listening to a couple of schoolgirls! It's not about dollars per mile, otherwise you wouldn't have built a big block hot rod in the face place. It's just the cool factor of having modern technology in an old steel. And now that the rodders are getting older and driving long distances with the wife, It's about comfort too.

8 minutes into the video and I'm still wondering when these clowns are gonna get serious about the topic. Can't watch any more.

To much bs

Fuck overdrive.