I remember when you had 11 comments...look at you know RJ.

You don't have any adjustment though, they seem to use deep-groove ball bearings, I stead of angular bearings. The only adjustable bottom-bracket with cartridge bearings that I know would be the Axix BB from the French brand Spécialités T.A.

Some early cartridges are actually serviceable by design--nothing more than an adjustable BB in its own shell. This video was intriguing, but the typical sealed BB is so inexpensive these days, it hardly seems worth the aggravation to repair one.

​@@keithschrack Yeah, its pretty cheap and not worth the trouble. Untill they dont have BB of your exact size in local stores)

@@redsun9261 In such event, I guess run to your hometown 𝗕𝗘𝗔𝗥𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗦𝗧𝗢𝗥𝗘 to pick up a pair of 𝑒𝑥𝑎𝑐𝑡 replacements. Maybe Home Depot or Ace Hardware keep them in-stock. Why didn't I think of that?!

​@@keithschrack i meant bottom bracket, not bearings. There is like 5 different sizes of square BB axle. Wrong axle length could ruin your chainline.

Toto555 thanks for your service of building bikes. I helped out building bike for a local boys and girls club, it is always good to see people have bikes that would not otherwise have them. I know what mean about labor more available than $ for parts. You fix what you can with what you have first, only buy the parts you cant get by with out

​@@drbobjohnson812I have a tip for you both. You can take rear QR axles and use them as derailleur hanger alignment tools. They have the same thread as derailleur hangers.

Thought the same, just buy a new BB.

I could see a minor risk of marring the fixed cup threads when pounding the cup off on the lip of the vise. The further risk would be marring the frame threads when reinstalling the cartridge into your bike frame. One reason to replace the whole unit. But I've always liked to reuse as much as possible, so perhaps I'll start keeping these bearings on hand for rebuilds.

You won't save much if anything.

@@trulyspokencycles4862 he would have been better to use aluminium soft jaws.

The problem with this service is that high quality bearings are the most expensive part anyway. The small amount of money you can save by reusing the sleeve and axle are miniscule compared to the price of good bearing. That said, doing this service could allow you to use higher quality bearing (e.g. high end SKF bearings) than is otherwise available for this style of bottom bracket design.

For sure, it's generally a better idea to replace the whole bottom bracket. Often times the tool interface is chewed up so getting new splines on there is an additional benefit (on top of ease and cost). Really the only other time I could see doing this is if you had an odd length spindle that you couldn't easily find... which would be very rare.

Nah Putting sweet as skf or fag bearings on would be good in anyone's book. Whether it's a new or used cartridge bb

Its easier yes but you can upgrade to some higher end bearings plus you arent wasting the rest of the assembly just because of the wear parts being worn

@@MrJonas2255 Could pull another tool interface off another cart bb

@@Drago0900 Could for sure, but why is the real question.

I hated regularly rebuilding mine and usually a buddy or two because I had the tools(still do) and a knack for getting them just right. A wet muddy trail or stream crossing and they where done.

I totally agree with you! During my long involvement with cycling, I have seen bikes go from being simply and easily repairable by the home mechanic (even “high end” bikes) to being ridiculously complex, proprietary machines that need to go to the shop for even the most “basic” repairs (brake bleeds, press-fit BB and headset replacement, etc., etc.). And yeah, indexed shifting is great…until it isn’t! Friction shifting is never out of adjustment!

@@johns3106 Exactly, cheers!

Yes And then the other way round for pressing the threaded push fit spline on

Putting the spindles in some dry ice if you can get it and know how to use it safely works very well, too. We used dry ice to install large-diameter bearings on AC induction motors that way.

Most definitely because these bottom brackets are so cheap it isn't worth it. The cost of bearings plus the additional labor would for sure cost more than a new replacement.

@@zachbrowning4066 They're like...$11. Even less for the shop, like $5 from JBI or something.

The exact same Modus BC-73, which is now being sold under name VP components, is $20 on amazon.

@@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362 Depends on what you want to do.

perfect application for you. nice.

Curious to see a French bb with sealed bearings, is it a mavic bb?

@@MrJonas2255 Velo orange makes a great French thread sealed Bottom Bracket.

Which cups did you install to the BB cartridge ? I've read about fitting Phil Wood to Shimano but I'm wondering if It could be posible using IRS cups which are cheaper.

Well your missing out. I've got the new Shimano Dubs 30 for boost axles and it's way better then these old things. The bearings are outboard, the spindle is 30mm and one solid piece and gives you a lot of stability and strength in the crank. Also you don't have to worry about crank arms loosening occasionally as they tend to do on square tapers. I highly recommend that you fall for the new tech if you can afford it. The new bolt on tru axles are probably my favorite of the new bike trends. With the new outboard bottom brackets being a close second. 🤠 I'm still a fan of the old front derailleur 3x setup but I think it's more sentimental than anything. The new 1x 12 are pretty good but require constant adjustment and diligent maintenance of the drive train.

@@jimig399 hollowtech is much less durable (the seals on the bearings are very weak, moisture always gets in), has much higher spinning resistance and much higher frame manufacturing tolerance requirements. Only real upsides are slightly simpler installation and slightly lower weight (not really, deore m5100 cranks+bb weigh the same as old octalink ones if you weigh without the chainrings). Everyone likes to talk about increased rigidity, but it simply isn't true. Octalink was peak tech Snapped ultegra cranks prove the strength argument wrong lel

@@jimig399 Its SRAM DUB and its 29mm not 30 and its not solid but hollow (that's kind of the whole point), and a known common problem with DUB and the GXP that came before it is....well.....the crank arms come loose after while and creak. The BB'S also have a pretty short lifespan compared to pretty much every other type because in order to fit multiple frame standards they use a very thin section bearing and because the spindle is aluminium and rests directly on hardened steel it basically starts wearing away the instant you start using it, and a bad BB can eff-up your whole crank-set in about 100km. The ONLY outboard system that has stood the test of time is Shimnao's 24mm steel axle (and those that copy it) and even then you won't get anywhere near the lifespan of a cartridge unless you shell out for something like a HOPE or Hambini BB. Fitting "self extraction bolts" (about $10 a set) solves the problem of square taper coming loose as long as your multi-tool has an 8mm Hex, this usually happens when the Crank-set is very new or ancient or because people don't realize there are 2 standards (ISO and JIS) and are using the wrong one. And NO i'm not a retro grouch all my bikes at this point use the some kind of outboard/2 piece system because I basically have no choice, but the only thing the OP is missing out on, on the whole is trouble and about a 200g weight saving (a saving you are basically throwing out the window by sticking with 3x).

Won't work on a UN55 or some Shimano BBs... Different design than here.

@@cup_and_cone He did cover the other common design (which includes UN55) about 8 years ago: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oseiatB6stO4gnk.html

I cant find the bearing puller on amazon, any keyword to help? bearing puller doesnt help or bearing puller bb. thanks

I will have to try that next time.

Actually combining freezing the spindle overnight and heating the bearing in an oven gently to about 100°C will likely make assembly very much easier. Bearings (including seals & the grease) are designed to take a reasonable amount of heat. I’ve replaced car wheel bearings like this that would normally require a puller to remove and a press to fit…too tight to just hammer out/in. The bearings literally dropped in.

I bought 4 bearings for $6.69 on Amazon.

@@RJTheBikeGuy Well, that's perfect then, thanks for updating! I stand corrected and as always, appreciate your time and efforts.

I like your method as it's even cheaper....

ntn, skf, fag, etc, will be much higher quality, but watch out for fakes. You can get cheap ones on aliexpress for less than the cost of a new cartridge.

@@soody4975 The question is whether the brands you mentioned guarantee at least 2x greater durability? If yes then they're worth considering due to the extended periods between overhauls. I have some experience with VP/Neco BBs and they offer quite good value for the price. They usually last for 2-3 years on a typical city commuter bicycle. Will the higher quality bearings last for 4-6 years? I have some doubts but maybe I'm unaware of the actual differences between low-end and higher quality bearings.

Same in Germany! Greetings Tino

That's what I found, it's not worth it if its a stock BB unit.

@@soody4975 the bottom bracket manufacturers get a large discount on the bearings because they buy so many. It's not always because they are using cheaper brands of bearings.

Yes, press on the the outer races on both sides to re-install the cups instead of the spindle.

I bought 4 bearings for under $7.50US.

Use your vice to hold your G clamp. You have both hands free to hold the BB, bearings, and turn the screw.