Sympathy's for those affected by the passing of a well experienced welder, he will definately be missed. Men like him don't grow on trees and will be a task in itself to replace. Men like you Scott who work their fingers to the bone are becoming harder and harder to find.

The welder did some amazing work keeping the buses going. He will be missed from all of his fans.

Very sad new about Barry. Never nice to hear the passing of someone you know. My hart goes out to you guys.

As a guy that's removed thousands of broken bolts some of the comments pain me. This isn't Scott's first rodeo, he's making exactly the right calls. The steps so far are just the normal progression of things.

The longer you guys are in your new shop the more I am impressed with the work you used to do out in the dirt on the road

Just a tip for backing out broken bolts after welding a nut on. The impact is essential. Trying to back it out by hand will break it, but when you use the impact you have to be VERY GINGER. If it starts backing out even a tiny bit, stop and spray it again. Gingerly turn it back in just a little bit, then reverse it a bit, then back in, then reverse again. Back and forth back and forth nice and easy. If you just give the impact full power it's going to break every time. Also, when he welded the nut on he was hitting it briefly right off the bat. A tac basically. You can't do that trying to remove a broken bolt. You have to hammer that trigger and melt the crap out of it, don't let off. Stay on the bolt hard and let it pool up to the nut. The weld usually breaks off the bolt, not the nut, so the bolt is where you need to focus.

Sorry to hear about Barry...prayers for him and his family.

Wow Scott, it seems buses will really fight you no matter what you do. It’s one thing that makes this channel so great seeing how obstacles are overcome.

Love your dedication to buses, poor welding guy 😢 praying 🙏 for his family ☮️&❤

In hindsight, I think this engine's cooling system drained and refilled with evapo-rust would've made fantastic content - pleasing with each parts disassembly.

Scott. From a former machine shop welder…. Broken bolts should be drilled through the center and all the way through to the gap beneath. If it’s a 3/8” bolt go 1/8” to 3/16” on the hole. It gives it the ability to superheat more of the bolt and provides more shrinkage when you quench it… quenching is really a good move. I’ve removed a lot of hopeless stuff… It’s always a challenge and it also better to be lucky than proficient. Good luck.

There's a point with these kinds of stuck bolts where drilling them out (with a good, rigid setup on a milling machine) becomes the "easy" solution. Not much fun when you don't have one, though! I hate to hand drill things like this, since getting it centered can be veyr hard (at least for me).

The owner should thank his lucky stars he got it to you. I can only imagine the nightmares that would be created by one of those half a$$ed shops out there that claim to a repair facility.

I never worked on a 92 ta ,thanks for the show ,I know now we're the aftercooler is❤

Acouple of years back I got asked to remove a V8 intake manifold which had several broken bolts (coolant leakage) .The alloy had reacted with the steel bolts and some genius had broken the heads off the bolts. Someone suggested I get a short peice of 316 Stainless tube with an 8mm nominal bore, grind teeth on one end and braze a broken mm drill in the other end so it could be held in in a small drill chuck.Making a hollow boring bit. I did this and I basically relieved the alloy corrosion from around the bolts . this gave a bit of extra clearance which enabled me to weld nuts onto the broken bolts and easily unscrew them. I reckon it saved days of hassling trying to drill bolts etc.

Abom79 is really good at extracting snapped-off bolts.

When you weld the next nut on move the torch tip more vertical start in the middle of the bolt and work in a spiral out to the nut fill the whole inside becomes a molten puddle of weld, you can use a larger nut like ¾ the way you put the washer on stud but still weld in the center out to the nut making the same type of puddle this will give you more heat down the broken bolt

It is actually amazing how much time adds up due to frozen fasteners, especially when you're under time constraints to get the job finished!

Free advice ... when attempting to MIG washers and nuts for extraction, place a "Copper Washer" down first as it will allow you to fully weld the steel washer/nut assy fully without fusing to the block ... improves rotational forces by not having any weld bleed over.

Thank you for responding I felt like I missed something have been long time sub.you have done well.

At the radiator shop we had a tapered cone water nozzle but it had an air gun attached that'd aerate the water stream and really give a high velocity blast without a ton of pressure, was good at scrubbing and loosening trash. Also, to help the bolt without heating everything red hot, drill down into the bolt a little ways, when you heat that remainder of the bolt, it'll shrink into the drilled hole, then you can weld and nut it.

(Stainless) Steel or iron bolts or studs in aluminium or vice versa. They currently do it everywhere again in automotive, appliances, tooling, (heavy) machinery even in aviation and maritime. I never understood it, and never will. Although China is the worst as we speak, it it is a global industrial quality, safety and maintenance problem, that needs to be addressed. Great video, great bus, great work..!

Another great video!!

The best method for cleaning heat exchangers is in a ultrasonic cleaner. Whenever I have to extract a broken on seized bolt and it is in a blind hole I drill a small hole through the center of a bolt so I can spray penetrating oil into the bottom of the hole so it will wick up the threads from the bottom.

Sorry about Barry. RIP.

RIP Welder . . .

impact hammer on bolt head before removing not full bore though just nice rapid hitting

keep the clips coming

Scott, if you’re going to go back with flat washers on the blower, look into Nord Lock® lock washers. They work great in an application like this, and aren’t that expensive. They allow for correct torquing and there are no issues created trying to get them loose later.

I actually use another bolt instead of a nut. The issue with using a nut to weld on is ya can't get good penetration into the stuck bolt. If ya use another bolt ya can get welded whole way around not just a bit in center. Also hammer that thing. Soon as your done welding ya hammer right on whatever ya welded to it. Will help jar it loose

If you're at the time to soak with penetrating oil, you might drill a small hole through the broken bolt that's the same size as the straw on the penetrating oil can. I think it's about a 3/32 drill bit. that way you can stick the straw down the hole and get penetrating oil at the bottom of the bolt as well. Sometimes, but not always, this helps. But it can't hurt.

You'd be the perfect shop to add a Vixen Surface Treatment System!

@ 7:30 reminds me of the scene in the movie money pit when Anna goes to fill the bathtub

With a dry ice machine you could clean engines completely without polluting the ground: no runoff, no residue other than the dirt, just vacuum it up or if outside, with plastic underneath .. and check the "Speed of Air" pistons ..

When he was turning it as a stud, he said it’s starting to tighten up, then it broke. I have a feeling a piece of the thread has broken in there and the bolt is jammed now. Drilling out will be required I think.

Hello Scott from Eagle Idaho

Watching what you resurrect I can understand how those Pakistani truck mechanics can overhaul one of these engines with a wrench a pry bar, no torque wrench, and a big hammer beside a busy road-wearing steel-toed sandals.

Sorry to hear about your welder friend.

Sorry to hear about the welder. Those guys that can weld old cast iron and make it good are hard to find. On a different note, did they store that engine in the Gulf of Mexico for a few years? That's one big piece of junk that was never thought about being cared for during it's life. Even if you could salvage it and gave it away, I wouldn't want it. 😀 Hope it comes together in the end.

I would collect those square washers off the housing before you lose them at the wrong time and they get into something that will get destroyed by them.

Wow a hose clamp caused all that colamity

I was always taught to always hand turn seized bolts and to tap on them as you attempt to turn them. You can't rush trying to extract bolts. Sorry to hear about the mobile welder..

Candle works the best for bolt trick

Have you ever thought of building a dipping tank? One to keep acid in to clean parts. Or just get a solvent parts washer?

Don’t use copper anti siege on bolts going in aluminum. Use the aluminum based stuff cause the copper aggravates dissimilar metals corrosion Copper is the stuff for exhaust work ad steel to steel but magnesium or aluminum object to it loudly. Just for your info.. if you know please just ignore..

almost looks like pork and beans yum

Shame about the welder, hope you can find another who can take his place. Had a bolt shear like that on a motorcycle with the welding process. Looks like this old bus needs a lot of love.

Hey boss try a little crayon wax its flat amazing on getting seized bolts out. Old mechanic showed me the trick years ago.

Hey scot I have many times ask about Tyler is he ok?

I think the nut broke off because it is a high tensile bolt. When you weld on it, the bolt will become extremely brittle. It you use stainless (304) wire that doesn't happen in my experience.

Between this engine and 6v92, a person could just scream.

Curious, but do you have any lefthand twist drills?

Try a left-handed drill bit... it may take them out. If not, it will provide a good penetration point for the weld.

Sorry to here about the welder man ,but keeping business in local area is great News.

I thought it was a little stopped up there for a second

Was the aftercooler plugged on the 6V?

The broken bolt is steel in aluminum Nitric acid

When do you get to the point where the labor involved in this engine exceeds what it would cost to just replace it with a reman engine?

Can you not use extractors or whatever they are called? Drill a hole and use one of those reverse thread things? I've never had to use one that I can remember, but I've seen them. They seem to work. Sorry to hear about your welder friend.

We haven't seen Tyler for a very long time-has he moved on?

Ya know ya got issues when Kroil fails. It is magic juice no doubt.

Maybe try an induction heater for those snapped bolts. Heats the ferrous bolts not the alloy.

if you heat a bolt then cool it quicly you will make it very brittle

Do you ever try drilling the end of the frozen bolt and using an extractor? What about just drilling the whole thing out and using a Helicoil?

Never knew the 92 turbo series had the water cooler under the blower

Another wheres part 2 😢😢😢

Why don't you set that blower housing up in your vertical milling machine & either drill the broken bolts out or use an end mill & mill them out like Adam Booth (Abom79) does ? Watch his videos on extracting broken bolts. I think you're fighting a losing battle now that the bolts are broken off flush with the surface of the housing. If you are going to try the weld a nut on method, you want to gently rock the nut back & forth little by little to help loosen it, rather than trying to just twist it out all at once. Also, on the radiator top & bottom tanks. Why not get them sand or particle blasted to do a more thorough & effective cleaning of them ? Just my thoughts.

CLR ?

Don't you drill and tap it to bring it out that's what we do in the UK

Vale Barry.

A lot of stuff going on with them bolts.

Drill out....tap thread with larger diameter.....new size bolt GM ?

Don't you guys have one of those machines you put the parts in and it cleans them.

You got your work cut out for you on that one

Steel bolts in aluminum = problem. Those two metals don't like each other.

Have you ever researched using chemistry to remove broken steel bolts from aluminum? Try it! it is very simple. Water, Alum (a pickling spice), heat from a light bulb and time is all it takes. The difficult part is making the rig water tight to hold the Alum soultion in situ as the chemical reaction happens. The first time I tried it I felt like Merlin turning lead into gold. It actually worked! Also, many years ago I duplicated a sinple tool that I saw sitting outside an automotive repair shop. It could save your side-by-side from becoming a rust-watery mess. Weld a 3 foot tall fence pipe to the center of an old wheel assembly, rim and tire mounted. Weld a plate to the top of the fence pipe and mount a vice to it. Cut a hole in the sidewall of the tire and fill it with concrete. You now have a mobile outdoor vice which is difficult to tip over whenever you need to cut, grind, pressure wash or weld smaller items. It will be more usefull than you think! ;)

As bad as this motor is, won’t easier to remove the entire engine and make it easier to rebuild?

Cleanest vice in America 😂

There’s nothing more exciting than working on seized up crap in a tight workspace where you can’t get the tools you need in there….. I could use a bigger hammer, but wait, no room to swing it 🤬😩

It doesn’t look like anything was ever done to that engine, that’s pretty bad ..

hate to hear about your welder. got a sign on the wall in my shop that says every 30 minute job is just one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal! aint it the truth tho! cheers

I have not watched all the videos religiously, but what happened to Tyler, did he go back to Ohio? Or what.

Simple question! How do you all get the grease and gunk out of your clothes??????????😮