Zone 4. I am trying to over winter some of my potted plants in my garage/basement. For my lily's hostas and hydrangeas that are in the ground I like to Mulch around them but they have survived without too. I have been interested in a tunnel but winters are pretty harsh with snow/wind/sub zero temps

Great information as usual, Savvy Dirt. I'm in zone 8 (barely). I keep all my most tender plants grouped together and whenever freezing temps are predicted I cover them with a big piece of cloth. Worked well last year , but then it was a mild winter.

I'm in NJ zone 7b. I like to cover my beds in a few inches of year old compost. A blanket and feed for next spring.

We live in zone 7 too. NC. Stared propagating 2 years ago ( still very much in learning stage) left well rooted plants outside on skids. Most did fine. Kept younger plants in our hoop house. This year the cover got destroyed so waiting to see what happens. New plastic on order! Retired an adding over time to everything. Working with plants is relaxing ,really looking forward to spring. Very wet right now,but sticking more hardwood cuttings..an watching lots of you tube to learn. You've done a great job putting them out. Thanks !

Glad you enjoyed it

Yes. Make sure it doesn't get too hot under there on bright, warmer days. They need to be dormant before you put them in the dark.

If they are hardy in your zone (anything you grow should be), they're fine outside in the weather over winter. Those 3 plants all winter very well. They need a period of freezing temps (dormancy) in order to live. If your climate is particularly harsh, some winter protection will probably help survival rates, just remember they easily dry out indoors also.

@@savvydirtfarmer I could buy a frost blanket from Amazon and drape it over them if you think that would help.

Those are all questions I wish I had a more clear cut answer for. I use trade gallon pots because they seem to be the best way to make the most money for a small backyard nursery. Larger pots can be sold for more, but they take up more room, take longer to grow, and cost more to produce. Smaller pots (1 qt, for example), are hard to keep irrigated in the heat of the summer when everything I water is by hand. I remove the plastic periodically as the days get warmer and nights get warmer... no exact rhyme or reason the way I do it. I try to make sure they aren't getting too dry under there but also that they aren't suffocating on warmer days. As Spring progresses and we're having freezing temps after plants are beginning to put on new growth, I cover everything I can - sometimes I just can't get everything covered and suffer some losses. 2 years ago we have a very late, hard freeze and half my plants died - such is life with living things. Covering with plastic extends the growing season a but in the fall and starts it a little earlier in the Spring - either can be a blessing or a curse. I didn't cover anything this year but those very young coral bells because they were so young and tender when I got them (Nov. I think). Hope this helps some.

@@savvydirtfarmer wow, thank you so much for answering my questions! there seems to be just too many variables to ever have definite rules. it's all adaptation. when you say that as spring progresses + plants start new growth, but a freeze is forecasted, so you cover whatever you can -- do you cover just the tender stuff, or everything, even the established trade-gallon stuff, too?

I don't ever cover my evergreens, which I have a lot of right now. They're fine. But generally, when any plant of any size is putting on new growth in the Spring, that new growth is very fragile and tender. Below freezing temps will damage that new growth. It won't usually kill the plants, but it will set them back several weeks, as they essentially have to start over. Trade gallon sized pots aren't necessarily less susceptible to winter kill. I just mostly use them for the reason mentioned above. I overwinter a lot of hostas in 3 inch pots (very small pots) and they do fine... close to 100% survival rate each year.

@@savvydirtfarmer thanks for taking the time to explain your process. you're saving a lot of us from avoidable woes. your channel is one of my favorites right now. keep up the great work!

Nice!!

If they are alive (big if), I would just put them outside in the weather until around March 1. .. then pot them up. If they are alive, they will know what to do as the weather begins warming. If you scratch them with your fingernail, you should be able to tell if they are alive. If they are moist and have some color to them just beneath the surface. They are probably OK. But the only way to know for sure is to just try. Also, if you want to try to get some growth on them now, maybe try that with some and as I suggest with some. I'm not very optimistic that they are alive, but there's always hope until you are certain they have died. Good luck!

When I use low tunnels, I put them in after they get a good hard freeze and go dormant. I water them good before I cover them. In winter, if they go months without being water, they might dry out too much. Just peek at them once in a while to check moisture. They stay moist a long time without water when covered and may not need any at all. If they need water, do it. If they don't, leave them alone.

Hard to say... in the ground is usually best, if possible.

Plants hardy in your zone will probably be fine buried in snow. Snow is a great insulator… protects from the much colder air temperatures. I spent a week up in your neck of the woods several years ago in the Granger to Elk City area. Beautiful country!

@@savvydirtfarmer do you mean even all the plants in containers? They will be ok under the snow?

@@GlacialRidgeHomestead some plants are more hardy than others, but even when I was living in TN and we'd get buried in snow there, all my plants were fine and they were just left in their pots out in the open all winter. Frozen, snow, warmth, rain, whatever. Evergreens always did great. Shrubs, various perennials. Takes some trial and error to see what does well in your climate. Also, could just build a more beefy low tunnel. Wooden frame, more supports, etc. Wouldn't be that hard.

Occasionally. I keep an eye on them.

@@savvydirtfarmer thank you!

Whatever it takes for them to not dry out. They don’t need to be soaked every day, and in winter they can go weeks without being watered if covered.

@@savvydirtfarmer hi, thats great, so I could do misting system once per day for about 2 minutes just to give them something in the winter ? Thank you

@@mitchellsmith4283 they wouldn't even need that. Mist is typically a warm weather thing as ,mist components will freeze in winter/

@@savvydirtfarmer thats great, thank you, so im hardly going to water them until there rooted ? 👍

So far I haven't had to deal with it, but can definitely be an issue.

Hello SDF, great info I live in south west Missouri in zone 6b and have grown peonies in pots and tubs for years with no problems they come back every year. Good luck with yours.

Great to know! thank you

@@rlbgardener6465 Hello. I am in 5a, southeastern Idaho and I keep peonies in large pots. No cover, they come back every year.