Always needing to mix to a consistency rather than being slavish to a ratio. Glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it

The challenge is getting it to the sweet spot of applying thin enough for an even spray, but not so liquidy that it doesn't dry quickly when it hits the model... otherwise I get that nasty pooling and spidering....

Very true. I have said before that you'll spend more time cleaning the airbrush and masking than you will painting with it. However, the results do pay off. Spray-cans are definitely an option, but it does require almost as much in terms of preparation and set up.

What do you use for your homemade thinner? I'm curious.

@@JCsRiptrack I mix 40% distilled water with 40% Windex (the non-ammonia kind) with 20% isopropyl alcohol (either 70% or 91%) and add 10 to 15 drops of water soluble glycerin (available at most grocery stores). That's my thinner recipe and I usually mix that 50% thinner and 50% paint. Works like a charm.

Glad you found it. Hopefully, I can also address questions that may come up in the comments section. If there's anything I haven't already covered, feel free to ask!

JC's Riptrack thanks for the reply. I have a cheap airbrush and have been just experimenting with thinned craft paints. Not bad results but I’m not great at directing the spray. Some of you guys are so precise 👍

What kind of airbrush do you have? Depending on their type, some airbrushes are better for broader work, while others are great for precision. I'm thinking of doing a paint-for-airbrush review, or something like it.

JC's Riptrack it’s a set I got from harbor freight. I believe theyre duel action. There’s 6 brushes and bottles with a carousel that the air hose goes to to control the air pressure. It’s not a top brand.

The Harbour Freight ones, from what I understand, are very affordable but lower quality. They'll get you started, and are good for broader work on scenery, but the 0.35mm needle and designed isn't geared for precision work. If they're syphon-feed, it's much harder to get close in. Still, as you said, not bad. I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace it, unless you really want to go full-in on a higher quality unit.

The goo is bad. The X20A thinner does work very well on Games Workshop/Citadel Paints, both layer and base paints; Privateer Press paints, and AK Interactive acrylic paints. I've not tried it yet on the AK Interactive Real Color, but I will be shortly to see how it responds to the X20a, or straight 91% alcohol. I do know that the Real Colors don't like water very much at all.

I use several brands of paint depending on what sort of effect I'm looking for, as some of them behave differently or work better for some effects. I agree that a spray booth is something I need, and I'm hoping to get one soon, especially if I am going to get into lacquers, but even higher volume acrylic work. I've gotten away with it until now using acrylics, and only for "short bursts" of activity. However, I am liking these Real Colors very much, and also how well the Tamiya Acrylics thin with lacquer to make it my next major hobby purchase. As for my pressure, currently my little Grex AC1810A compressor is set at about 20psi. Since it doesn't have a tank, the "real" pressure is somewhere less than that. I am thinking of adapting my larger 4 Gallon compressor for airbrush use. Ironically I have finer control with the pressure with it than I do the little one.