Painting Model Trains - Primer & Pre-shading

  Рет қаралды 8,506

JC's Riptrack

JC's Riptrack

Күн бұрын

Up until now, my videos have been focused on weathering model trains, specifically factory-painted models. For the next few videos, I am shifting gears a little bit, for tips and advice on painting model trains. After all, when you start with undecorated models, one can have a lot more freedom not just in how they look, but there are forms of weathering that start from the ground up. This video looks at the foundations of painting undecorated models, including the use of primers as well as pre-shading.
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Products and Equipment Featured or Used in this Video:
The following are affiliate links to Amazon. I receive a small commission if purchases are made through these:
Spray-can Primers:
Spray can primers are easy to use, and are great for setting down base coats on either larger models or several models at once:
Games Workshop
These are good quality primers. Even military modellers make use of the black in particular. You can’t go wrong with these:
Chaos Black: amzn.to/2Vp7miE
Corax White: amzn.to/2Roiygc
The Army Painter
While the Army Painter primers also come in black and white, these links show some alternatives for some colours that would be useful to model railroaders:
Leather Brown: amzn.to/2Rolmde
Fur Brown: amzn.to/2RrYE3S
(there’s a total of 22 different colours from this line)
Tamiya Fine Primers
Tamiya primers are extremely fine and work well with their own brands of paint. I have found that I need to clear-coat the first layer of paint to protect it as it sometimes rubs off. These primers only come in white and grey. These cans are also half the size of the Games Workshop and Army Painter cans.
Grey: amzn.to/2VoIG9I
White: amzn.to/2CIOYK0
A special note on automotive primers: I don’t recommend these for the fine detail of model trains. They do work well for things like model rocketry, but some of them can and do fill in detail, as they are designed to cover up imperfections on a full-sized car.
Airbrush Primers:
Using an airbrush gives the most amount of control for applying primers, and are becoming more common these days. Both Badger and Vallejo make polyurethane acrylic primers, where it used to be that airbrush primers, such as Gunze-Sangyo and Tamiya are lacquer based.
Stynylrez Primers:
As an airbrush primer, these are my new favourite. I like how they go on, how they hug the detail, and how they do stick well to the surface. My only caution is to let the primer cure fully before you apply any sort of masking tape:
Stynylrez Black 4oz: amzn.to/2RuvxwN
Stynylrez White 4oz: amzn.to/2RrXLbp
Three pack - White/Black/Grey: amzn.to/2RuvvFb
6-tone pack: amzn.to/2SzgPC2
Vallejo Primers:
I have not tried the Vallejo primers, but I am told they are good. Like Stynylrez, they are available in numerous colours. Follow one of these links, and they will lead to the different colour choices:
Black: amzn.to/2BWNbQ8
White: amzn.to/2BU3uNp
Grey: amzn.to/2Rp0IK5
Tamiya Paint: Hull Red: amzn.to/2SzhuU2
This isn’t a primer, but there are Hull Red style primers out there.
Grex Genesis XGi3 Airbrush Starter Set amzn.to/2E6l1pg
(Dual-action Gravity Feed airbrush, compressor, braided 6ft hose, and a getting started DVD)
This is an updated version of the combo set that I started with. The advantage of this newer version is that if you wanted to swap out needle sizes, it can be done with upgrade kits, and it comes with different sizes of paint cups. It comes with a 0.3mm needle as standard. This also comes with the same compressor that you saw in the video. I’ve been very happy with my setup. It has done everything I’ve asked it to. Fittings on this airbrush and hose are ⅛” which are compatible with Iwata hoses.
Grex Genesis XGi3 Airbrush alone: amzn.to/2P89mHz
Equipment & Software:
Sony SLT-A55 DSLR (Link is for the A68) - amzn.to/2x81GOv
Zoom H4n Handy Recorder: amzn.to/2K3TdBY
Boya BY-M1 Universal Lavalier Microphone - amzn.to/2Qml0QO
Manfrotto 190X Pro Tripod - amzn.to/2Nz4vCu
Adobe Creative Cloud:
Photoshop CC 2018, Premiere Pro CC 2018, Audition CC 2018, After Effects CC 2018.
Learn How to use them: amzn.to/2Nz4z5c
Credits:
Music: "Engine No. 9" by Les Hooper
© 1981 Birch Island Music Press, Sole Selling Agent: C.L. Barnhouse Co., Oskaloosa, IA
Used with Permission
Picture of the B36-7 is from Rapido Trains and used for the purposes of illustration.

Пікірлер: 37
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
What is your experience of painting your own models? What have you found that works? What doesn't?
@Tcostello105
@Tcostello105 2 жыл бұрын
Great video, will check out your other videos too thanks!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome, thank you!
@SD_Marc
@SD_Marc 5 жыл бұрын
Not many railroad modellers mention military-modelling techniques. Glad to see someone passing along military modeling's fantastic techniques to the railroad world.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Because I returned to model railroading after having spent many years in tabletop wargaming & sci-fi models, I've picked up a lot of tips and tricks along the way. I like to pull from as many genres as I can. The upcoming salt-chipping technique is of particular interest amongst car modelers who like to make rat rods or junker vehicles. That'll be up in a few weeks.
@SD_Marc
@SD_Marc 5 жыл бұрын
@@JCsRiptrack since most railroad cars are prepainted, and some rather well, useful shading and fading falls on washes and filters, and the oils technique here. You might mention the reason for the oils on the cardboard, drawing out oil to speed drying. Otherwise it can become a mess. If you did, I apologize. Keep it up, it's time for train modelers to move past just powders. When I was a kid, in the 70s, all I knew about weathering was a bottle of Pactra paint called "Weather" which was essentially a clear medium with chunks in it. It sort of made your Jeep look dirty, and I thought it was the height of realism. Haha. Now, the sky's the limit.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
I can't remember if I did mention the specific reasons for oils on cardboard. I have to do that when using the Winsor Newton Oils, but the Abteilung 502 specialized oils don't have the same issue.
@TouchoftheBrushModelWeathering
@TouchoftheBrushModelWeathering 5 жыл бұрын
This was the exact video I was looking for my projects as well as for my clients. Very informative, entertaining and you make it easy JC! Keep it up!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful, and that it was timely. Always good to be sharing and exchanging ideas. :)
@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout
@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout 5 жыл бұрын
I think this will be just what I needed. I was just gonna use gray Vallejo primer and paint black over it. Will be ordering black Stynylrez primer now. Thanks John!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Vallejo does make black primers as well, but I've been quite impressed with the Stynylrez Primers.
@guillermocruz2440
@guillermocruz2440 5 жыл бұрын
Oh man, you deserve much more subscribers! Keep it up!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
+Guillermo Cruz Thanks! I’m still a pretty new channel. Feel free to share this. :)
@sherretga
@sherretga 5 жыл бұрын
Hey John, excellent video! Always wanted to know how to make buildings more opaque so that I could use LED lighting in individual rooms. Thank you!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Black primer is definitely the way to go. Even a white primer on the interior will let the light through. One additional trick is to put black primer on first, and then paint the interior white (or some other colour) so that it helps reflect the light out the windows.
@tp6212
@tp6212 5 жыл бұрын
Bare (undecorated) plastic seems to have a knack (at least for me) of picking up (oily) fingerprints, and also seem to (electro-staticly?) grab onto lint and dust.. So in the 'Preparation' stage I usually give the model a bath, and then handle the model with gloves until after the primer dries. After that, fingerprints are less an issue, and dust/lint blows (or brushes) off easily. I'm eager to see the results of your preshading in the upcoming videos.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
It may not be to everyone's taste, but it does add some visual interest, especially since I am experimenting with the Colour Modulation style with the Husky Stacks.... I'll make sure to take some stills this time!
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
I should also mention that TP's advice here is solid. Yes, clean your models. Undecorated locomotives especially can be a little greasy out of the box given the lubrication on the mechanism. Soap and warm water is a really good idea as part of the prep phase.
@sandraschlesinger5258
@sandraschlesinger5258 Жыл бұрын
Do you have a video on re-painting or weathering over a store bought, plastic, built up rr building....for example, buying a WoodlandScenics building and then repainting or weathering it to look old. Thanks
@phillipwyman8963
@phillipwyman8963 5 жыл бұрын
Hi John Happy new year! I used to use the Tamiya primer, but at over $11.00 for a 6 oz. can it starts to add up. I tried the Badger Stynylrez Primer and it is a winner. that's all i use now. Doing undecorated rolling stock is the top thing in the hobby for me. love making the decals and making my own color, and weathered cars. Very much looking forward to your up coming videos on this topic.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear Phillip, and glad to know that I'm not the only one who has been impressed by the Stynylrez primers.
@JoeG-firehousewhiskey
@JoeG-firehousewhiskey 5 жыл бұрын
I wish there were more undecorated cars, I usually have to strip them first then paint them.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
I'm thinking that a video on preparing for repainting models is a good idea. There is merit to the discussion as to how necessary stripping actually is. Modern paint is pretty thin, and Kato is very difficult to strip.
@khoshekhthecat
@khoshekhthecat 3 жыл бұрын
What stripper do you use?
@walkervalleyrailroad1790
@walkervalleyrailroad1790 5 жыл бұрын
How do you feel about using rattlecan paint from Lowe's like krylon fusion k have used it in the past and it seams to work well but it helps to give the can a bath in hot water to bring up the temperature of the paint and helps it flow better and finer
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
I've not tried the Krylon. I have used various types of automotive primers, particularly a brand called Duplicolor Black Sandable Primer when I have worked with my miniatures. Privateer Press' own brand of primer is very similar to this. The main thing is that they're the non-filler primers, otherwise they could cover up all kinds of detail. Best thing to do is experiment. :)
@walkervalleyrailroad1790
@walkervalleyrailroad1790 5 жыл бұрын
@@JCsRiptrack I sent you a link to what I used and a picture on Facebook
@wurlitzer1538
@wurlitzer1538 5 жыл бұрын
I'm repainting a die cast steam locomotive like an excursion engine with a black boiler and gray smokebox and firebox. As it stands now the engine is a very dark PRR Tuscan green. What color primer should I use and should I put another layer of black model paint over it if I end up using black primer?
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
For what you're doing, black primer is probably your best choice. In terms of using another layer of black paint, I'd say only if necessary. You don't want your layers of paint too thick, and if the basic black from the primer is doing its job, then great. Some black primers are more like a very dark grey, and in that case you might need to depending on how black you want your black to look. Also, most primers are a matte finish, or at best satin. You'd need a gloss clear coat later on if you want anything shiny. My usual rule is that unless you're going to be painting brighter colours like red, orange, yellow, or a brighter shade of blue, black primer is my default.
@wurlitzer1538
@wurlitzer1538 5 жыл бұрын
JC's Riptrack Thank you, this helps tremendously! Great and informative video
@marka87
@marka87 4 жыл бұрын
Hi John, picking up on your box car pre-shading, I noticed that you covered the whole roof in black primer on top of white primer, could you just have painted the roof black to begin with? Cheers, Mark
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 4 жыл бұрын
I could have, yes, but since I often use spray cans for a base primer, I’m used to doing a complete base coat first before adding a shading layer. Since I was going to add a metallic colour to the roof, black is a better primer colour for it, hence this kind of a hybrid of two primer layers.
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Oh yes, that's an Atlas 3-bay roundhouse, not the Walthers kit. Ooops, it came to me partially built.
@likesanddislikesetc
@likesanddislikesetc 5 жыл бұрын
I don’t own an airbrush and I don’t want to spend the money for one. I love your videos but is there a method you suggest for non-airbrush weathering?
@JCsRiptrack
@JCsRiptrack 5 жыл бұрын
Hi APJ, with a few exceptions, most of the techniques I set out in the Weathering Basics playlist are non-airbrush techniques. kzfaq.info/sun/PLxNYoknHPrDqei3e2M7SlN3xfnzh4cDW1 The fading video, for example, is specifically a non-airbrush technique (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJdhoKR7rN3YZ30.html). Where I do make use of airbrushes in weathering is mostly to apply clear coats, which can be handled using spray cans. For painting models, you can use spray cans (especially for primer), and then use paint spray cans to lay down a thin first coat. The airbrush is needed when you want some greater fine control for painting models, but is optional for almost anything else. I hope that helps!
@likesanddislikesetc
@likesanddislikesetc 5 жыл бұрын
JC's Riptrack thank you
@aliaksin
@aliaksin 2 күн бұрын
Too much unnecessary talk. Video became boring.
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