This is WONDERFUL info THANKS

Shouldn’t have an issue adapting to your speedo even if its and electric sender. If it doesn’t match up just give GV a call and I’m sure they can help you work it out. I still love my setup and it can handle all the power I can afford to give it with my new engine upgrade coming.

Rich Pedraza I got it last week and the adapter works perfectly with my auto meter gauge. Converter is out for refreshing so waiting on that to install the transmission. Can’t wait to try it out !

Charles Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it. Hope it was helpful.

I have a 56 with 5.0 & 1979AOD that's shot, thinking about same as you, is the C6 kit the same as this vidio??

@@REVNUMANEWBERN no ...the only difference is the tail shaft , I have the short C6 in the video it's the long tail shaft .they put the shorty's in mustangs cougars other short wheel base cars and the truck s for some reason . I actually bought the kit with the long tail housing had to send back the tail section , speedo cable And pull the shaft out of the GV since on the shorty C6 you can pull out the output shaft once you take off the tail housing then you replace it with the GV supplied output shaft that splines into the gear vendor it was 500 bucks more than the long tail trans .

The long tail trans the output shaft is held in by a clip so you need to take the trans apart to replace the shaft , on the shorty C6 everyone says it can be pulled out there's the bolted on yoke for the driveline that holds it in so if I wanted to use the long tail I would need to pull my trans out , take it to a shop have them swap it out put trans back in 400 bucks . The shorty kit was 500 more so I picked my battles there I have not installed it yet this week I'm going to put it in ...

+Kevin Brown - Hey Kevin, thanks for watching the videos. It sounds like you have a cool car going there. There will always be trade offs when you have a dual purpose car but you can get around some of them. Honestly you running 3000 rpm at 65/70 isn't too bad other than fuel economy if your water temperature stays in a good range. Your valve train should be able to handle that pretty easily on long drives as long as you take care to keep it in adjustment and stay on top of your oil maintenance. Even your 4300 doesn't sound bad for the mph you hit since you're likely only doing that for a spurt of time. I understand where you're coming from however, especially if you are used to driving a modern car that does 70 at 2000 rpm. So what can you do? You can effectively lower your rpm by changing your rear gears to 2.79 or something in the 3.0x range while still keeping your posi-trac but you will lose the 'fun' factor of acceleration. If you're not willing to lose the 'fun' factor, the alternative as you are researching now, is an overdrive. Depending on your horsepower level you have the option of an aftermarket AOD like Hughes or Performance Automatic among others which do not require a computer to control them. When you include all your other required costs including the cross member, torque converter, possibly a new shifter, and still having to change the drive shaft, you can quickly get back to the $3000 area of the GV. You will also be sitting on a rebuilt C-4 that generally won't get you your money back when sold used. It would be great for another project if you have one though. Ultimately you need to look at how much freeway driving you actually do as this is where the OD will most help you. If you believe you do enough freeway driving to justify getting an OD then start doing some number crunching. Look at the quality entry level AODs at Hughes for example and figure out everything you need for the conversion. Compare that to cost of the GV + drive shaft and see where the money side comes out. Then think about the install difference and which you are more comfortable with. You've seen in my video how easy the transformation of your C-4 will be once you drop your transmission. Also, don't be shy about calling the Gear Vendors help line if you have more questions that can help you make your final decision. After all this time I am still very happy with the unit I have and recommend it to others. I hope some of this helps you with your decision. Good luck.

The unit comes with conversion box that the GV computer uses but I'm not sure if it's the same as what your gauge uses. I'd contact GV about that as it's a valid question that I'm guessing others may have already dealt with.

@@dignlif The Autometer pulse generator worked. Just the paperwork said, it goes into OD at 47mph. The shop did have to drop the subframe connector about an inch, and remake the driver side exhaust for the GV unit to fit, but they got it in.

I run 4.11 gears with 31" street tires and usually have 2800 - 3000 rpm at 70 depending on the grade.

Thanks for watching the video, glad you found it useful. I am not sure if GearVendors makes an adapter for the T5 but you can go to gearvendors.com and surf around there by application and brand like GM or Ford. They have a strong help desk you can call as well for quick answers. All contact information is also on the website. good luck. R

Thank you very much friend!!

My guess is that it would fit in the classic van but I'm not for sure on that. I don't recally have much if any issues with fitment.

Man that’s a great question that I unfortunately don’t know the answer to. I don’t recall reading about that since I had a standard speedo in the past. I’d reach out to GV support if I were you. If you don’t mind, please put the answer in here when you get it to help others. Thanks!

Thank you ill speak to rick thanks

Rick Johnson 2 days ago Our speedo wire input is to our signal generator at the overdrive. We put the correct ratio speedo gears in the overdrive for your rear gear and tire size. You would typically use that with the included ford speedo adapter to drive your dash but it has no bearing on the overdrive function if you do not screw in your stock speedo.

block it off as ts not used

with 4:11 gears and 31" street tires I can usually do 70 at about 2800 - 3000 rpm, depending on the grade. It helps

Hey Marcus, part of the dependency is your rear gear ratio and size of tires but yeah the GV od can certainly help. My car did 70 at about 2,600 rpm with a 31” tall street tire and 4.22 gears. I now have 4.11’s but haven’t tested the news setup yet. The newer cars are able to do really low rpm freeway speeds because of having 6-8 gears which really breaks down the ratio.

@@hotrodsandbbq Good info to know! Thank you very much!

+IndianaJBird Hey there, you're welcome! I hope you got something out of the videos. I don't recall having any issues with the tunnel fit and yes I am still using the unit. It is awesome having it every time I hit the freeway. I have my car up on the lift right now doing some work on the fuel system so I'll shoot a quick video and try to capture as much of the tunnel fitment as I can.

Rich Pedraza Thanks. A video of that would be great.

+IndianaJBird I posted it today, hope it helps you see what you need. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j7Gef9Nm3aeYdKM.html

I used to have 4.86 gears with my old engine but now have 4.22's. This was done to change my rpm at the stripe because the new engine needs less rpm. I run 31" tires on the street and with the OD on I'm running 70 at about 2800 rpm. Since you're talking 5.13's I'm guessing you're a straight line guy like me. You need to figure out what gears your engine needs at the track first. I guessed on my 4.22's and happened to get it right but I was willing to give up a little rpm for street driving at home and on DragWeek.With the BBF coming I'm sure I'll be going back to at least 4.56's. I'm sure there are formula's out there to help you choose with some precision. I believe the OD ratio of the GV is .78. I suggest going to the GV website and looking at their charts too. Under Muscle Car/Hot Rod look at Ford 3-Speed Auto for a good example. Under C4/C6 trans it shows a final drive ratio of 4.00 with 5.13 gears and 3.20 with 4.10 gears. Depending on your street tire height your rpm will vary slightly but 3.20 would be really comfortable and even 4.00 wouldn't be super terrible if you don't care about going more than 65-70 on the road. This is assuming you're valve train is up the task of the constant/ long term rpm 3300 + also. My first DragWeek with no GV I was running 53 mph at 3300 rpm on the road and man that made for some looooong 250 mile drives. The GV helpline is also really good and extremely knowledgeable so you can always call them once you've done a little fishing yourself. You could call with that chart in mind and get an idea from them how much it would change with a 26" rear tire vs 28". Good Luck!

Rich Pedraza wow! thanks for all the info! it honestly really helped out.

Hey Leon, you should give them a call to see if they have your application available, I'm guessing they do. (800) 999-9555. I did a quick search on their site and saw they have kits for heavy duty Dodge / Ram trucks and they're big in RV's so you should be able to get what you need. Depending on your location they can even help with install. - Rich

Haha yeah it’s not too bad. The GV od ratio is .78 or about 22% but your rear gear ratio and tire size will dictate where you wind up rpm wise. My car being a pro street build with huge balloons will likely be diff than yours. But, with 4.22 gears and 31” tall tires, I could do 70 at about 2600 rpm. I now have 4.11’s so it should improve but I haven’t tested it yet.

Hey James, my Mustang has the floors out of it and I'm also rewiring so can't do a driving video right now but I can try to answer some of your questions. I know I filmed it on a drive awhile back but it basically shows the rpm drop as I was driving so not a big deal. My trans has a manual valve body and I never used the 'auto' mode of the GV either. I primarily activate it in third only as an overdrive on the freeway. I haven't used it regularly on the track yet as I don't run out of gear to need it. I have no fears of shifting it after 3rd to finish the run though and may very well need it when the big block goes in. I agree that doing all that gear splitting on a pass manually would likely slow you down, at least while learning it, as that is a massive amount of coordination to keep straight besides all the other focus required to make a safe pass at speed. I'm not sure about using the Auto function to do it for you with an automatic trans shifting itself. The guys I've talked to who use it on the track generally use it manually to finish the run rather than splitting gears in the middle of the pass. I have the car on the lift right now so will try to shoot some footage to show it installed in the car.

Thanks for the info. My 65 is my DD. I'm taking out my H.C.I. 5.0 to put in a 408 or 427 stoker also. I love the C4 transmission. How do you like your Performance Automatic Supercomp transmission? I like the power rating. I'm not a fan of the full manual valve body tho. I like to leave mine in automatic mode occasionally.

TheJamesG1990 I am really happy with the PA trans. I have not had any issues with it since installed and besides track time it has been on 3 DragWeeks so far. I run a Derale trans cooler with thermostat controlled fan to help protect it. I have the manual valve body because I like to bracket race my car at the track whenever I can. I would not recommend it for primary street use as it does get a bit cumbersome going from stoplight to stoplight. It's almost like having a stick because you have to go back to neutral/ first each time you come to a stop...but without the addition of the clutch. You also cannot downshift it to slow the car as it will burn up the clutches. I did that on a previous trans. I believe PA has a Pro Street model with similar power rating which has a valve body capable of manual shifting but also has the normal automatic D-drive functionality. The 408 is a great engine combo for a stock block build that will give you more than enough power for the street and will last.

Thank you for the review & incite.

Any update on how it drives?

Ertile It is originally an automatic trans but I have a manual valve body in it. If you don’t know, that removes the auto function and you have to manually shift 1-2-3, then when you stop you go back to neutral and start again. With my manual valve body setup you cannot downshift as it will just wear out the 2nd gear clutches until they’re gone. Did it once on previous trans. Since I am used to it, I have great Baer brakes, and it is great for shifting on the drag strip, it is not a problem for me to not downshift.

I'm not sure about any losses but I don't recall anyone talking about it in the past. Seems like it's a fairly direct link when not engaged. I'd call the helpline for info on that question. I can tell say that I've never noticed any additional noise since I added it back in 2011. Although I'm running 3" exhaust so the car is a bit loud but I've never noticed any whine or anything like that from it.

Sorry Wilmer, if I could speak it better I would at least try.

T M I never got around to making another. What info were you looking for.

Everyone has an opinion and I'd like to know the source of yours. Don't try to ruin someone else's experience or a product name with baseless or even a single example of poor performance. A comment saying something is junk w/o explanation is simply weak and meaningless. The GV can handle over 2000 hp, as has been proven by multiple cars on Hotrods DragWeek. Many more cars with excess of 800 hp run them regularly. I haven't had any problems with mine in the last 3 years of running it. Admittedly mine's a hobby car with only around 450 hp that has seen maybe 5000 miles plus 11 second passes at the dragstrip in the last 3 years. The GV has also been used successfully in tow rigs and RV's for over 30 years. It is however susceptible to misuse, incorrect use, and general incompetence, as are any devices, including overdrive transmissions. I'm curious if that is the source of your accusation, if in fact you even directly own one and had problems. Most overdrives, even built ones, cannot handle being shifted into high gear/ OD under WOT with much more than factory HP where a GV can. This includes most 5 speeds. In general the OD in a transmission is a very weak link only intended for part throttle freeway cruising, as it should be. Nor can many, if any, manual valve body transmissions be downshifted to be used as an engine brake; it simply wears out the clutches. Ask me how I know. The winner of 2013 DragWeek Pro Street N/A class uses his GV before the stripe under WOT of his 1100+ hp big block running 8's and still finished the 1200+ mile drive. He is still driving the car with the GV now. If you or 'a guy I know' jacked one up not using it correctly, then that is on you and not on the product. This is the same for anything else that you may have messed up...own it.

If they had designed the damn thing to use automatic transmission fluid instead of gear oil you wouldn't need to change oil in it every 2000 miles, plus your adding a shit load of weight just for over drive

You must be looking at a different owners manual than I am. Mine says the recommendation is every 10,000 miles. Besides trans fluid, the manual also shows you can use a SAE 80W-90 rear end/ gear oils. If you're talking about changing it every 2000 miles in a high performance/ stress environment, well sure. I don't know anyone that runs full 'standard' timelines/ mileage for fluids in their performance cars they thrash. Even then, you're only talking about changing 32 oz of fluid...not 5-7 quarts. As for the weight argument, I'd like to see what the weight difference is between a built Th400 + GV and a built 4L80e (can be made bulletproof but a tank). Weight wise though if your running a street strip car you can do a shorty Glide/ GV combo. (Yes Price differences is always looked at when purchasing any performance equipment but I've learned that cheap sometimes costs twice). I will give you that the C-4/GV combo is heavier in my car than just the C-4 by itself and a bit heavier than a built AOD. The difference however is that the weight of the GV is pushed back more than 12 inches behind the main body/trans weight since it attaches to the back of the tailshaft housing adapter. That puts the extra weight closer to where the driver is rather than hanging right behind the engine/ firewall. My point is that you can't call it junk because it runs trans fluid and it adds some weight. Nobody would run stroked out big blocks if weight was such a concern. (yeah I know-small block with turbo) Anyway, if the GV had a history of recalls or didn't actually handle the environments its sold into, or was an offshore knockoff made of cheap parts and sold at same price then yeah I would agree. The device however is solidly designed and built. As I said, I've seen the production floor and the parts that go into it which are machined in house from high quality materials. This naturally leads to it being a pricey option but it is just that...an option. Feel free to choose another option.