Thank You. You sir, have given me the feeling of real success. You described what I've been trying to accomplish. If you go to KZfaq and type in "pacific mike," you'll see, we have over ninety videos up. Some are good, some could be a lot better, but, we're getting there.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Glad I could help!

Cool, thank you.

@@pacificmike9501 SFFS :)

Thank you.

I'm flattered. That's great. Glad you're making progress. Pleasant dreams.

Thank you.

Thank you. Enjoy.

I've seen that video. Very impressive. Tell me how well it works.

Thank you.

Thank You.

It's not hard to do, without the tool, just much better with it. I've done it, but, don't like it as much. You just set the lid on and off carefully, so the forks don't move, and make your adjustments until you're satisfied with them. Prop the trans so you're not fighting gravity. You might even make up long studs to slide the lid on straight.

Very cool. They're just different. Annd they have to be approached accordingly. Have fun.

Thank you.

You're welcome!

I understand, and, thank you.

Thank you.

Most manufacturers had kick and electric starters. If a Harley was made with an electric starter, a kick starter was an option. This started in the late sixties. The first electric starter on a Big Twin was 1965. 45's had their first electric starter in 1964.

Pacific Mike That is interesting. I did not know that electric starters went that far back. I would think that the bikes would have been manufactured with a kick starter and having the electric starter would have been an option for those that would rather have that. Thank you very much for the information.

Thank you.

Thank you.

We'll do it next time it comes up.

Thank you.

I use an aftermarket one with a hose attached to it. It keeps the water out. Don't know where to find one. I believe the 48 is hex. Try V-Twin (Tedd Cycle) out of New York. Anyone with an aftermarket shop does business with them.

I don't recommend brands, but, I like 85/140. Trans shifts smoothly. Modern, name brand stuff seems pretty good. Amount varies a little. With the modern throwout bearing, you want to keep the level a little high. Depending on what kicker cover (or throwout cover) you have, Harley tells you how to fill it. Motorcycle upright. Now fill through the fill hole to the bottom of the fill hole thread, if it's an early type. If it's a late type, there is a plug in the cover. It is an allen plug, and, you fill the trans through the fill hole until it runs out of the plug hole in the cover. Again, with the motorcycle upright. Now we have different length front ends and different length kickstands. Picture in your mind, the translube leaning against the seal, sitting still in your garage, living room, or whatever. It's not a matter of "if" it will leak, just a matter of "when." Also, the earlier 4-speeds are all vented. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for the compliments.

Thank you.

You should probably have things inspected by someone with experience, if you don't know. There are many suppliers of parts advertised all over the magazines and the internet. Original parts take some searching, swap meets and shops that deal in early stuff. Again, the internet. Thank you, but, I am retired. I help out a few where I live, but most is my own stuff. 65 Panhead is a way cool motorcycle.

There is a seal that goes on that shaft. Look it up. Again, what year is that trans? The shaft is kept from moving back and forth by a circlip on the late four speeds and a screw in the case on the earlier four speeds.

Hey Mike, the trans is 1971. I see the screw in the service manual blowup, but I have to pull the trans yet to open the cover. I'll report my findings!

Cool. I normally can't remember who has what, so every time, you gotta say what you're working on to keep me from making unnecessary mistakes.

Ok Mike, I found the culprit. The shifter fork shaft set screw is sheared off at the section that holds the shaft in place. As a result, the shaft walked out, exposing the rubber seal, and allowing oil to escape out of the case. That screw's part number is 34050-36 is anyone else may have a need for it. Mike I'd just like to add that aside from the answers you have, you also give me confidence to do the work, so thank you! If you're ever in Florida, I hope to see you out on the road! Anthony

Very cool. Thank You.

Good question. Shifter forks are usually the issue. Nice new, properly timed forks, with new top hats? It goes with everything else, properly shimmed and spaced gears, and it all lives "happily ever after." Seriously, any one or all of those issues will make it work well or bad.

No, but Andy was certainly an old friend of mine.

Thank you.

You can lift off the entire lid and the ratchet assembly stays connected to it. The kicker cover comes off with the kickstart assembly still attached to it. Use the manual here.

@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the input. I was just wondering about the ratchet assembly since, in the video you were setting it with a tool.

It is in the service manual. There is a small seal at the end of that shaft. Haven't done a ratchet lid in a while. When one comes up, we'll do it.

@@pacificmike9501 yes

@@pacificmike9501 yep. Read it. And cautious about the spring-loaded aspect of the left side where the shifter linkage attaches to. I have two 75 Super glides. I will take the one that is having its engine rebuilt, and take that one out and try my hand at it. Slowly, cautiously, taking plenty of pictures along the way. Cautious neophyte in Connecticut..

"Bench" shifting is sometimes a little difficult on the four speeds. Have someone turn the mainshaft while you shift.

@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike your the man I will try that its now shifting through all gears I had to adjust my forks but when I go to use the impact to simulate it actually going through the gears it shouldn’t lock up at all while going through each gear correct? Also thanks for always taking the time to help out a first timer you’ve inspired me to do it on my own and the knowledge I’ve learned makes me want to learn even more thanks again

Thank You. You can turn the mainshaft slowly, just turn it while you shift.

Pretty rough, not impossible, but rough.

Thank you. I don't know the man, but I know that was a compliment.

Sorry, has nothing to do with me. The guy is a "friend of a friend."

You can "fake it" without that tool, but it's pretty difficult. Long studs to hold the lid in place, flashlight to see in there as things engage, with the trans held level so nothing moves on its own. Again, not easy and not a good idea. It's worth buying the tool.

@@pacificmike9501 the tool looks expensive to youse just once in a long time I live in the uk as well HA thanks for your help though

Sure. They're used a lot. Go for it.

I'm of course, assuming, the case you found is in good condition.

@@pacificmike9501 It is brand new , thanks for the advice.

Sounds like a score to me.

Look up "Google Translate" on your computer.

@@pacificmike9501 I know translate for the translations of the comments but not for the videos. I am retired too Mike, must not ask too much to me. :o)))))

Just look at it a few times. It will make sense.

@@pacificmike9501 yea that’s what I did 3 times on top end but I got it back just need your refresh class 5 speed please lol