Awesome! Glad the videos have been helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting 🤙

Glad it helped! I appreciate the feedback

Thank you! I’ll try to keep making more!

Think these would work? Says 0mm offset facebook.com/marketplace/item/178743246561119/

@@shanejamesmccann5858 If you're trying to fit 32" or larger tires, just based off the backspacing those won't work without wheel spacers. Like I explained in the video, if you're looking at getting a 16x8 wheel with 3.75 backspacing, you'll need an offset of -19mm (negative 19 mm).

Good Question! I think the only manual hubs that fit those wheels are the rugged ridge hubs, or any knockoffs of those hubs that you can find online (I've heard there are unbranded counterparts to rugged ridge that you can find on ebay, but I've never seen them myself)

You bet! Glad it helped

@@208Tyler I'm way to broke for rims but ahhh soon soon

I cut my front fender liner a little bit, as well as cutting into the rear part of the front fender well by the running board. That was about it

You will be able to fit a 16” wheel. 03’s came with 16” and 17” wheels stock, you won’t have a problem. The LE’s and SE’s trims are what determine wheel size stock, but nothing about the brakes or anything like that changed or affected fitment of wheels

If you go with 31” tire you don’t need 3.75 backspacing to avoid rubbing on the strut. The tires will fit fine and look nice. If you want the tires to stick out more you’ll need spacers or new wheels.

I have a 03 SE and I'm having the same problem can't find but one 16 inch wheel with this offset and backspacing and it's a beadlock part # RT8168060-T. I read that if I get 15's I will have to grind my brake calipers down but they will fit from what I understand.

I havent dealt with wheel spacers, but yes you'd need 1.5" wheel spacers to keep your stock wheels with a tire of that size. 6x139 and 6x139.7 are both the same, and they're equivalent to 6x5.5. One is metric (mm), the other is the equivalent in inches. They both just mean 6 lugs with 139.7mm = 5.5 inch.

@@208Tyler Thank you Tyler !!

16x8 3.91 BS will clear a 31” tall tire from the strut, no problem.

255 is a tire width. There’s several 255 tires that would or wouldn’t work. The backspacing math in this video is for ensuring fitment of tires relative to the lower strut mount, based primarily on height. Lift height will not change the issue with the strut mount. For avoiding rubbing, in general skinnier tires on higher backspace numbers is best. Adding lift will mitigate rubbing at ride height but ultimately won’t stop tires from rubbing at full compression of the suspension. Either way, I don’t have quite enough information from you to answer your question or understand what you’re trying to accomplish. A lot of 255 tire sizes end up close to stock tire size and won’t rub much.

You can fit any tires under 31” tall on just about any wheel without rubbing the strut

You need a wheel with 3.75 backspacing. The wheel radius doesn’t matter, and the offset doesn’t tell you everything. On an 8” wide wheel all you need is -19mm offset.

@@208Tyler thanks!

Without knowing what you mean by "fit", the answer is only maybe. That wheel/tire combo will physically mount to the vehicle without any issues. The tire will not rub the strut. However, the tire may rub parts of the fender well or mud flaps, which could be fixed with some amount of trimming. Your suspension may be "stock" but not at stock ride height if its worn or sagging. This would affect how much room you have to fit the larger tire at ride height.

@@208Tyler fair enough. Thanks for the response!

Fit on what suspension? Stock? Lifted? For stock suspension, I would guess you'd have rubbing issues around 30-31" tall tires. Extra backspacing and wider wheels than stock will exaggerate this. I don't know the backspacing or width of those wheels, but they're probably an 8" width with about 5" or 5.5" backspacing. I wouldn't go with the 265/70/17, that's too close to a true 32", and on that backspacing you would need wheel spacers to avoid the tire hitting the strut, and at that point the rubbing issues would be even worse. The 255/70/17 is also going to rub a lot on stock suspension. If lifted, then either tire should fit more comfortable at ride height provided you have the proper backspacing for the 265/70/17 (31.6") tire

@@208Tyler Thanks. I plan to put them on after I do the 2" AC Spring left front and back. Do you think the 255/70/17 will be ok with that?

What do you mean by “ok”? The 255/70/17 tire will physically mount to the hub and not contact the strut, lifted or not. It might rub and require a little trimming, it might not. There’s too many variables when it comes to wheel and tire combos to gauruntee a specific outcome. It won’t cause any problems, but it might take a few small accommodations to fit on a 2” lift. The rear won’t rub at all, but the front may require trimming.

DX4 gear wheels. Pro comp, level 8, trail master, and american racing should all have 8" wide rims with -19mm, same backspacing as my DX4 wheels.

Thanks! Love the videos, just picked up a 2002 manual

Oooooh, manual? That’s nice, enjoy it!

I’m struggling finding anything with -19 mm offset. Another question I have is what’s the difference between 3.75 backspacing and -19 mm offset? I found some wheels with 3.75 backspacing but say for example -25 offset. Is there anyway you could link to an example of a wheel that would work? Thanks again!

Offset is where the wheel mount sits relative to the center of the wheel. Backspacing is where the wheel mount sits relative to the inner edge of the wheel. So, while a 8” wide rim with -19mm offset has 3.75” backspacing, a 10” wide wheel with -19mm offset will have a backspace much higher than 3.75”. In the case of R50 wheels, backspacing, not offset is the key measurement. Here are some wheels with the same specs as mine (15x8 -19mm): www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/pro-comp-69

The largest you can go with what mods….? You can go to 35’s or 37’s with enough lift and cutting, but the drivetrain and diffs aren’t great for adding larger tires.

@@208Tyler 2" ac coils up front, LR 9449 in back, etc. I saw In another comment or maybe in the video you said you were getting close to the floor board (or something similar maybe not the wording you used.) I'm getting rid of factory bumper soon and the liner is going with it, but if I have to start cutting into important stuff I would likely forgo going any larger than 33. Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I had to cut into some of the sheet metal ne’er the front doors (back of the front wheel wells) in order to not have 32’s rub on 2” AC coils. Backspacing and tire width will effect how much you have to cut

@@208Tyler you have true 32's? I've got 31.8x10.6 or whatever the hell they are and had to do just a bit of trimming.Not as much as you it sounds like. I'd love 34 but I would be content with 33x11 I think. Thank you for taking the time to reply.

32x11.5 r15- tiressize.com has the falken Wildpeaks in that size listed as being a true 31.6” tall.

Wheel spacers if you're on stock wheels or properly backspaced aftermarket wheels are what it would take, yes

"the larger the wheel diameter, the stiffer the suspension" . I think I know what you're saying, but it's technically misleading. Changing your wheels can not change the stiffness of your suspension, thought it can change how the vehicle rides. Not a big deal. "Given that most of the miles these cars will ever see are on pavement, I choose to better adapt the wheels and tires for on road use" - by that logic, leave it stock- certainly don't lift it. "air pressure is NEVER going to deliver the stability that a taller steel wheel will. Take a minute to notice the wheel diameter on police Ford Exploders & SUVs sometimes" I don't drive like I'm on the way to a 911 call, and niether should you. Thanks for assuming that I'm ignorant as to how wheel and tire setups affect road handling. Additionally, a larger wheel diameter means a smaller sidewall, which means you can't air down and traverse off-road terrain as safely. You will need to give it more gas to get where you want- not as safe, more likely to induce rollover. Or you could bend a wheel off-roading. I bet bent wheels are good for safety and roll-overs. "YUCK! Cant believe that was a deliberate objective in your build. Cosmetically it's ugly." Thanks for insulting my build preferences. "Performance wise, the factory rear track width is too narrow" The factory track width is one of the outstanding parts of the R50 pathfinder design, especially in combination with its shorter wheelbase. Maneuverability and angles are king in many kinds of offroad situations, and my wider (3.75 backspace, "YUCK") setup has held me back on certain rock approaches off road. It goes both ways when it comes to putting tires on obstacles, but to assume that the wider trackwidth is inherently better is wrong. "& contributes to higher incidence of roll over, especially when adding 2" of additional lift w/LR springs & taller billstein shocks. " Leave it stock. or lower it. or buy a volvo. or don't drive an SUV. It's an SUV with a higher center of gravity, if you're so worried about roll overs go get something else. Also, the "taller" bilstein shocks make lifted SUV's safer, not more dangerous. "I'm looking for a 17x8 or 17x9 with less than 3.75 in backspace". Hard to find or impossible, don't hold your breath. Also, getting a wider setup changes your scrub radius, as well as generally being harder on the front end. Especially if you do end up using wheel spacers. Lifting is harder on the front supsension as well. Having a clapped out front end is a great way to get in a rollover.. My point is, you're worried about an obscure scenario (rollover/emergency handling and safety), that if you were truly worried about, you would be moving in the opposite direction. I you're that worried about rollover, go get a subaru or something. Best of luck

@@208Tyler 👍 I'm sorry for getting under your saddle blanket. 🤝 I'm grateful for your channel, it appeals to me because I like tinkering with junk to see what's possible. It's your rig, if you like it, that's what matters. KZfaq, comments, opinions: everyone has them. No doubt you'd think my rig is ugly, and I'd agree. It wouldn't hurt my feelings tho. I'd rather everyone speak their minds than run bout pulling their punches for the sake of doublespeak. Taking an old garbage R50 and modding it to do what's not supposed to be done, is where I enter the R50 world. Tell you what? I travel to Boise & Parma from time to time. Next time I'm there, I'll find you & buy you the nicest burger we can find & share my pedigree w/you. Deal? You've done fine work, I enjoy it. I forget sometimes how overly sensitive youngsters are today. GEN Xrs, we expected to get a lil & give a lil jabbing w/o taking it personal, it's humor. Sadly that's an apparently barbaric, abhorrent custom for today's baby boomer off spring. The Army has a school, on Fort Leonard Wood. It's within the MP Special Tactics course catalog, called the evasive driver course. Students actually crash vehicles as a normal part of the training, they learn to defeat the pit maneuver, learn to crash through vehicle road blocks (hint: aim for the rear axle, dip the front breaks a half a second before impact, release & impact), learn to do j-turns in sedans, vans, & 4WD SUVs, escape pursuers, blast disabled vics through ambushes, & drive SUVs at high speeds around a paved course. Part of the classroom instruction includes some of the material I shared with you. I didnt invent that material. It's standard fare in dignitary protection rigs world wide. Evasive driver course cadre are from various backgrounds with real world LEO experience, agency clandestine services experience, secret service, US Marshals, DoS protective services, NIS, & CID. The taller wheel, wider track is taught, and driven, and in use now and for many years previous. At school & in practice this setup is driven in 4WD SUVs. At high speeds. Forward & reverse. The course burns through a significant amount of tires daily, and cars as well - but to a lesser extent. Students learn how easy it is to roll squishy off road designed suspensions on pavement. They're taught to inflate tires to 5lbs over max psi to both increase traction in all vehicles & reduce roll over in SUVs & tactical vics. ATESDC is just an entry level course. There are additional contracted courses folks are sent to to further refine learned skills & develop ability to implement additional effective TTPs. But the tall wheels are standard. Any LEO EVOC course you will notice all the SUVs are similarly set up. For my recreational application, I'm building this R50 as a disposable lil bang around, a beater for my shooting range rig. I'm not going to run the Rubicon or anything like it with an R50. Nope. Just some dirt roads, muddy roads, potholes, muddy n snowy dirt roads, but mostly highway to get to those roads. My R50 pig is sacrificial. If it gets destroyed that's ok. So long as the Audi or 4RUNNER don't get extra miles or beat to hell schlepping around a couple hundred pounds of gear over shit roads. This beater R50 SUV offers space for guns, ammo, & training equipment, and lots of cheap readily available junk yard parts. I do drive like a bat out of hell, in S4s, A8s, 4Runners, Tahoes, Exploders, & HMMWVs. Posted speed limits & edge of mechanical performance limits differ, I enjoy finding that edge & flirting with it. Tinkering & tweaking this old beater R50 to operate like a high risk protection detail work rig - which is comical, but who doesn't enjoy a good joke? Never been one for safe speeds. I won't be here forever, I'll do my living at the edge, thanks. If for some far out reason I wanted to get into crawling up or through rocks, I'd mod my 4RUNNER. Your work is largely applicable to my own tinkering, and I appreciate it, and our discourse.

@@ThanxBeToGod bro just take the L, geez