God bless you ! Awesome edit & design

You're welcome!

Well be sure to go buy those plans so you can update them and sell them back.

A bit harsh... but true.

What a dick comment.

@@kurtbilinski1723 I sadly agree. But Awesome video !!

Yeah sadly I gotta agree, add the fact that it is plywood and thus quite flammable ...

Thanks. Great suggestion. I will find a supplier and add them to my inventory. I have loom that is pretty cool looking. It does take a bit of time to put that together. I can add that as an upsell.

Thanks for the comment. You will and I sure it will be in no time. Just keep at it.

Wow, thank you so much!!

Yeah, that is true. It's probably time to resurface. Haha

Thank you so much James!!

Thanks!!

Thanks.

Thanks. Very helpfull information. I didn't realize that blowing air into the cabinet was less effective than sucking air out of the cabinet for cooling. The retrofits that I work on typically have the air blowing into the cabinet.

Yes, this is something I do from time to time.

No i don't think you were harsh enough. How is he going to ground all the components and the case is what i want to know?

@@rosswoolley2854he does ground them. But I do agree, an industrial control panel would be a good choice for this project. Especially with so many parts wired

Thanks.

Thank you!

Thank you so much!

Thanks

The encoders go back to the driver. Mach3 doesn't take the encoder feedback as that would be more processing than is necessary. The driver knows the commanded pulses and will make every attempt to achieve the commanded position for the motor. If every attempt the driver makes fails, the driver will output an alarm for one of the controller inputs so the machine can stop. If the driver cannot achieve the desired position, there will most likely be a physical binding or interference with the travel of that axis.

There is very little torque using the selected NEMA 34 motor, so I was way within spec. I only choose closed loop when the torque required for the application is somewhat close to the motor torque. In this case, these are the largest motors you can find for NEMA 34 and you need to step up to NEMA 42 for more torque and the customer's machine is set for NEAM 34.

Thanks! I've been doing these types of enclosures for about 14 years.

Yes, I rotated it, I think. It was a long time ago and I don't think my OCD would have let me let that go.

lol, that would definitely make me bonkers too! thanks for sharing the video.

Speakon. Typically used for audio.

Yes, you can do that. Look at videos from www.youtube.com/@baxedm9806 and you will see he is doing a very similar thing. The EDM machine puts out a much higher EMI than a router, so this technique is a way to ground EMI.

Thank you for typing those long set of words for me..! Keep up Sir..! I will Check@@PatrickHoodDaniel

Control cables should generally be routed separately, motor cables produce electrical noise so have to be routed separately. Similarly keep the USB cable away from the motor cables. In an industrial setup even the ground would not be shared

Because it's cheaper!

This system will require a single circuit from the main breaker.

Nope, it's pretty light compared to a toroid transformer.

That's it.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel thank you! 🙏

Builds like these are for customers and not for my machines. This customer used two motors to move his gantry. This is the typical setup for most CNC routers of a large size. My machines typically only use one motor with a very long shaft extending so two motors are not needed and squaring is resolved mechanically. Most closed loop electronics use a power supply for each axis. It is how it is typically sold, but I also like using separate power supplies to get a bit of extra room for current. I have a lot of videos that step you through the process very slowly and in a detailed way. I would suggest taking a look at those videos. A good starting point would be the videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

WOW! The fastest reply in the whole KZfaq universe!!!! I’m still puzzled by the closed loop (watched only one video on it) and it’s benefits but for now I’ll have to stick to my setup as money is a great barrier on my evil world domination plans 😂! I’ll watch the other ones but before then…. SUBSCRIBING!!!! I appreciate you taking your precious time to discuss particle physics with a toddler, but keep in mind that I sincerely am impressed with such care for your viewers! Hard to find it in here anymore! If I can be of any help, let me know! Edson from the sunshine state!

AND you’ve got your own playlist in my library! A $59.99 value, yours for free!!! 😂😂😂 Thank you, brother! It really means a lot to me!

@@roadshowautosports Thank you very much. Buildyourcnc also from the sunshine state!

The electronics that we provide are typically sized for larder machines than the PM940. the PM940 is a relatively small machine with screw drives. These drives are very easy to turn so our light CNC electronics would be fine for that application.

I have a PM940 that I converted to CNC. I am using a Masso controller, Clearpath servos and ArizonaVideo99 CNC ballscrews and mounts kit. I designed and built my electronics enclosures. I used a large Hoffman enclosure and put all my electronics in it and used a smaller Hoffman enclosure and put my VFD in it. Have you made any progress with your 940 yet?

@@halfstep67 I haven't kicked that project off...and now in the mean time, Langmuir has introduced their new MR-1 that looks pretty good. The only thing I'm not real crazy about is their choice of spindle, its limited to a 1/2" and uses a ER20 collet setup versus an R8 and the Z axis is limited compared to PM940 retrofit.

@@ericsandberg3167 Keep in mind if you choose a PM940, you will have to wait for a while due to being sold out and waiting for new shipments to arrive. The PM940 is a pretty good mill. I completely disassembled mine and stripped it down to bare castings and repainted it plus a full CNC conversion. It is a big heavy mill and requires something like an overhead electric winch to help disassemble and reassemble. I am using the Tormach TTS tooling system. I rebuilt my spindle with better quality tapered roller bearings for increased RPM. I can get 6000 RPM with no problems. Someday, I will do a belt conversion but for now, I am using the gearbox.

Eash power supply powers each motor/driver pair, and closed loop setups typically come in that format. I could have used a huge transformer, but that would have added unnecessary weight. The relay is used to decouple the signal connection between the controller and the VFD. I could have just connected the two grounds together from the controller and the VFD, but I have had issues with doing this in the past.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel many thanks. I have had trouble integrating/connecting a pulse laser directly from a cnc controller to switch on and off with a g code command. I believe a relay might help as a middle man but wasn’t sure of the circuitry and the specific relay to adopt. Any thoughts?

@@pratikshukla6075 If you're going to be pulsing the laser at a high frequency, like more than a few times per second, I would not use a relay. If you can't connect the laser trigger directly to an output from the controller, then you should use a device that is intended to switch at a high frequency, like a solid state relay, a mosfet, or a transistor. But, if you are using the laser in a typical laser type scenario, I would highly recommend using a laser DSP, like the Ruida or similar controller.

I think the relay is for controlling /coolant pump

I have not tried applying 12V to the 10V input. The 10V input serves as a voltage reference. If the VRef 10V terminal has the ability to receive a higher voltage, then the PWM may change the range from 0 to 12V rather than 0 to 10V, but I am not sure.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel Thanks for relpying. My VFD delivers 12V instead of 10V so I bought a DC buck converter to make it 10V. It won't work with 12V.

I take everything to earth ground. There are many products out there with wood, plastic and other nonconductive enclosures. Many of these items don't actually include a ground wire since the nonconductive enclosure is not a shock hazard. I still use ground in this scenario since there is a lot of EMI and this noise can be taken to ground. The individual components also have metal housings so the ground also serves as a preventive drain and to properly ground/shield for the manufacturer's intended circuit function.

I also use LinuxCNC as you can see in my older videos. However, parallel ports are hard to come by these days unless you build a computer just to use LinuxCNC. I have gotten use to Mach3 over the years and I'm very comfortable with it. Interestingly, back in the day, it was hard to move from LinuxCNC to Mach3, but now Mach3 is my "go-to" software. Thanks for watching the video. I am truly grateful!

@@PatrickHoodDaniel linuxCNC now has USB control and a real nice controller board that's plug and play. And Linux CNC is free but the board is about $200. Good luck.

@@frodobaggins169 Thanks. I will add that to my arsenal! Do you have a link?

@@PatrickHoodDaniel Question? is there any money in KZfaq video? I'm retired and not healthy, walk with a cane. I'm looking to build a CNC mill. Something to keep me active. I have talents in many fields.

@@frodobaggins169 It depends on the niche and the amount of time you work at it. My KZfaq hasn't gotten a lot of subscribers because it takes about the same time as a full time job. My channel has been around since 2007. I make around $150 per month on a good month. However, if you use the videos as a complement to other things you do, then that is a better formula.

What appreciable benefit is shielding the control box? The individual components are earth grounded. Thanks.

​@@PatrickHoodDaniel For example yesterday my test home-server crashed from RAM error when a taxi parked near us and start using powerful and legal mobile radio station. Later tested all 8 modules and no errors were found, modules are non-ECC and during the crash everything was outside of the original case

@@PatrickHoodDaniel It's better to take advice than to mock it.

@@rosswoolley2854 Not sure what you mean. I think the intent of the response got lost in translation as I was asking a question and included a short statement of what understood as a solution. I was expecting a thoughtful conversation. I had no intention of sounding like I am mocking. That's just not who I am.

Thank you so much. I just fixed the link.

These are 10-amp power supplies. If you are looking for the "rate" of speed of the current (amps), that is dictated by the voltage, and these power supplied are 48V.

Yes but those designs only go up to like 24volt right for the stepper motors? For something like the PrintNC we're upwards of 48v so need more powerful electronics. Not so sure the wood box is a good idea on this design as it's a fire hazard and has no EMI protection. But I like the backboard idea if done with different material.

@@okinawajapan1 you can go up to 40V via external PSU driving a NEMA 34. If you need bigger than that, It would be better to purchase a industrial type machine

If you have electronics you need worked on, check out my video I just made kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aclgh7eAt92yZJc.html and in the description, I have a link where you can get a quote to work on your system. Thanks.

You haven't seen problems, but if you get this guy to build a control box for you you will find out the hard way!

Dang!! You're right! Haha

How many fuses do you put inline before you plug your PC power supply into a motherboard?

@@KZfaqSupportServicesat least one breaker would be there. A fuse in the PC Smps would also be advisable

A single power supply would be an extra cost and potentially higher weight., These power supplies allow the current draw for the disparate drivers. A single power supply would be insufficient for all three motors. A single power supply that was spec'd for all three drivers would require a very high current output. Using these power supplies is also providing a safety factor so they will not be topping a current draw, saving the integrity of the components and enamel coating.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have received comment on not soldering the ends as well. So far, the ferrules have been great as long as you use the correct size for the gauge.

​@@PatrickHoodDaniel To clarify my loose comment. The wires themselves typically stay crimped, but the ferrules "wiggle loose" at the screws pinch point due to the air gap within the ferrule, beneath the pinch point. So unless the screw terminals are torqued down to the point to fully collapse the ferrule(which nobody does for a host of reasons.)(Primarily because the terminal would break first.) they end up rattling around with intermittent contact. AND with intermittent contact, there's typically sparking and/or erratic signals that create spikes that damage sensitive circuits. Bare or even better "Soldered", are more secure. Look at it this way: They invented pex, sharkbite, etc... connectors for the plumbing world because "fire scary" and soldering a plumbing joint is "so much harder than just popping something into a hole". It's all marketing BS aimed at cashing-in on laziness and intimidation of learning a skill. Think about the physics of your connections and don't listen to me or Captain gimmick. AND in case your unfamiliar with it, and considering the monotonous amount you're doing, You don't need to use the solder iron on each wire-end. You can use an electric lead pot. 30$-50$...Neatly twist, dip in some good ol' kester 186, dip in "electric lead pot", done... Good luck! No response necessary. Most importantly just try and enjoy your hobbies!

@@KZfaqSupportServices My ferrules always collapse in the terminal. I have not come across any of the problems that you are explaining. I have also scoped connections countless times and have seen no noise, spikes or anything you mentioned. This is with me being very uncareful while scoping. I started using wire ferrules from comments like these and now I am told not to use them. Each of the commentators have no videos on their channels to explain why, how or best practices. Until I see a better method demonstrated and in detail, I will probably stick with this.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel DO what cha want man. Sorry, I don't have 25 years of industrial machinery repair and fabrication videos for ya!... Luckily, the "millennial" intellect is a comfortable path to walk down, ....UNTIL it isn't.

Are those points on a linear movement, or a circular shaft position? If the latter, first you would need to set the steps per unit so one full rotation is 400 steps, then you could create a gcode program: G0 X0 G0 X10 G0 X240 .... If the former, you would set the steps per unit according to the linear distance you desire for the placement of the 400th step. The formula is pretty easy and if this is sounds like I am in the right direction in answering the question, I can help with the formula.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel this is what wanted to achieve but using gcode..kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ibuqnN1i39vUd58.htmlsi=K1gqiJ3PW6hxuFhH

Thanks for the feedback.

I explain why I don't use coosed loop in another comment. Thanks for the comment. I am always looking for better ways to insert wires into terminals. Haha.

Maybe I'm too harsh😆 I take my own manual dexterity for granted but many people have fatter fingers and poor close vision. I suppose if there are no other consideration it makes boot-lace crimps look more attractive. Not to diss you too much but when I've been watching ESP32 and bluetooth videos and working on software for my own electronics arrangements it was a surprise to see the electronics in yours was all pre-made before you even saw it😂

@@fluiditynz I have skinny fingers, but have very bad close vision. You see me with jewelers loops in parts of the video. Are you referring to ESP32 as in CNC electronics or ARM ground up electronics for other projects. You may already know I teach ARM microcontroller electronics on this channel which is why I'm confused. Thanks.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel I haven't seen your other videos. But I was I was an early user of Arm for 3D printers, about 13 years ago, I designed up a 3D printer motherboard using an STM32F103VBT (ARM). I had it printing and even processing G codes but I got frustrated because the opensource community was doing a much better job than me alone, even on the little Atmel processors. But I did have my printer working. So it was fascinating after all that time, on my purchase last year of a CR6 max, to see that they used a STM32F103 on a smaller pin count chip. It was actually my first venture into C on the STN32 after many years with only basic variants, VB, Python and assembler for various brands and models of microcontroller. Huge instructions set for RISC unlike the recent RISC V micros!

Thanks.

@@PatrickHoodDaniel Had some that tended to stall on decel .... after days of configuring the control what ended up fixing it was to turn down the voltage ,,, even though the driver said 60v , it liked it much better at 52 ...

Modern stepper drivers use current chopper control circuitry, voltage is not so crucial here ( however there is a high and low voltage limits for correct operation)

@@arbjful These are "modern" steppers ...and they are more likely to stall on decel at max voltage .

@@theiaminu5375 that’s strange, we never faced that problem. I suppose ‘modern’ is a relative term

Of course I grounded the shield. There is an exposed wire that runs along the shield within the cable that is paired with the DC ground. You can ground shield on the DC ground or the Protective Earth. Since this is a wooden enclosure, the shield is taking the shortest path to ground, it's own DC ground. I could have taken this ground to the PE of the power supply, but that would have introduced too much wire causing an antenna. Because this is in fast motion, you cannot see the shield. If you look at my latest electronics wiring videos in normal speed, you will see I am also grounding all of my shielding and you can see how I do it.

Ahh fair enough. Hard to see at that speed. I stand corrected.@@PatrickHoodDaniel

The build portion on the video is 25 minutes. The extra 7 minutes is instructions for the customer. In KZfaq, you have the wonderful ability to skip ahead. I suggest doing this for future videos that you watch. Thanks for watching and commenting. I am grateful.

Where is the link to putchase? 😢

That is a great suggestion. Thank yo so much for the guidance. I have considered going to another platform and maybe now is the time to consider this.

@@PatrickHoodDanielMaybe functions, wiring and applications of electronics modules you come across or use would be great help and will be much appreciated for rookies and aspiring electronics individuals. Not "useless tech videos which add no values to...". Might as well don't share. You're gifted and sharing what you can, that is appreciated. You are awesome.

@@nevales Thank you. I will consider this. Sounds like a great idea.

Don’t listen to them I need this type of videos for my engineering degree, thank you so much for all of the technical stuff, I really need more of that.

Thank you!!

I show the wiring in the video. You would like the wiring shown in a different form?

it would be great if you do some picture / sheme how the cables are conectod to the controller und powersuply and how the spindle must be conected to it als becouse it do have 4 or 6 wires whitch are realy small ... I cant realy see who goes where... Sorry for my bad english ))@@PatrickHoodDaniel

@@snouzz-gaming I do have thosoe videos where I detail everything in normal speed. You can find all of those videos on this page: buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board