Thanks. I've owned Atom for 36 years so that's enough time to get it right. There's plenty of details to show on the exterior too, and I plan to finish that video in the next few weeks. James

Ps, thanks, for passing your talents on to us younger generation through your videos!

Thanks Ken. Atom is ready to go anywhere, but for the moment we're not looking beyond local cruising and maybe a trip to the Caribbean sometime. James

+Olle Sköld Thanks. We used Brightsides single part polyurethane over PreKote primer. We added flattening agent to the paint to knock down the gloss a bit, which helps hide imperfections. Unfortunately, in this climate the paint needs frequent cleaning for mold so I won't use it again. We are now using Petit EZ Cabincoat on another boat, which is latex and supposedly mold resistant. So far it is looking good, doesn't require primer or sanding between coats.

The gasketed doors are meant to slow water intrusion but they will still leak because it's hard to get a perfect seal. When possible I use them together with raising the doors/lids above the waterline to make significant leaking during flooding of the locker less of an issue. Having the doors a few inches above the waterline is not enough to prevent flooding when the boat rolls around at sea so that is where the gasketed lids slow the water significantly.

@@atomvoyager Thank you for your response. I am - as I'm sure like many others - very inspired by your philosophy of keeping things simple and functional. Life situation permitting, I plan to get a neglected Alberg 30 and build it ground up. Appreciate your generosity in making this information ready available.

Mac Silvey That was a windy day and the audio picked up the mooring lines squeaking a bit on their cleats. James

Marine toilets like this, other than composting type, have a valve that allows you to pump out the toilet direct overboard or in restricted waters to a built-in waste tank that can be pumped out offshore later or pumped out when visiting a marina pump-out station.

+acmeopinion factory It's true the batteries could be better secured since the lashing lines would stretch a bit on a rollover. Because they are AGM and within lockers it's less critical than liquid acid type. The aft 3 are going nowhere since they are within the confines of a tight strong locker. The forward one is also within a small locker with cleats at the bottoms, thru-bolted eye straps with holding lines, but it could be improved.

Bill, thanks for your comments. I don't know of any off-the-shelf tracks available so I just cobbled together my own by using a sheet of 1/2" plywood and screwing down an aluminum flat plate on small pieces of 9/16" strips of wood at each end to retain it. You also need a support leg at each end. If that's not clear, you can email me thru my contact button at atomvoyages.com and I'll get back to you. My boat came with an old Atomic 4 gas inboard engine that I grew to dislike for all the obvious reasons. I later sailed without an engine many years for the sport and challenge and simplicity of it. Later, when I decided to add aux power again I knew I could not live in such close quarters with a diesel inboard. I had no desire to become a diesel mechanic or hire one. And I felt the best option on a small sailboat that has a large overhanging lazarette locker is a tilt-up outboard well. There are pluses and minuses but for me the pluses far outweigh the negatives.

The same.

Because each locker under the v-berth is a watertight compartment. It's difficult to get a fully watertight seal on those gasketed locker lids so having them above the waterline makes it less likely to leak badly if flooded by collision damage or failed thru-hull or a wave getting inside in extreme weather. None of that is likely though so just a precaution that most boat owners don't bother with.

@@atomvoyager Thanks so much!

I used 1/2" or 3/4" plywood in all areas and sealed well with numerous coats of epoxy resin and at least two layers of medium weight fiberglass cloth and more in the corners. You could use core-cell or koosa instead of plywood if worried about water intrusion. More details of the construction are available at the links below: www.atomvoyages.com/gallery/video-gallery/371-building-an-integral-bilge-water-tank.html www.atomvoyages.com/gallery/video-gallery/315-integralwatertank.html www.atomvoyages.com/articles/improvement-projects/259-watertank-1.html www.atomvoyages.com/articles/improvement-projects/258-unsinkableboat-1.html

Thank you very much! Very helpful and interesting information! :)

@@atomvoyager Hello James, when you say "all" areas. Did you also use the same material for the bulkheads, settees and the shelves?Did you have to fiber glass the bulk heads/settee and Galley structures as well or did you leave them as plywood and painted over them. Thanks in advance for your expertise.

Yes, same boat, same owner.

@atomvoyager thanks very much. I remembered reading about it somewhere. Great feat indeed. 👍👍

Dale Anderson Oh and BTW, thank you, your voyages are what inspired me to buy #92 4 years ago.

Dale Anderson Dale Good to hear from you. I kept the original bilge access board locations which you can see in the video at 10:00. Then the area aft of that at 16:00. It may look confusing because the engine is out and an integral watertank occupies the aft end of the bilge. If you have more questions you can email me through my website. James

atomvoyager I said it poorly. What I meant was, mine has drain holes so that when you come in from the cockpit at least some of the water (if you are wet) drains straight down into the bilge. I was wondering why you covered the holes themselves in, not the actual hatch itself. I removed my Atomic four too. Didn't think of storing the batteries back there though hmmm...you might have solved a problem for me!

Dale Anderson My bilge boards had only a single finger hole, not really drain holes. I covered them because the water can drain easily around the edges of the boards and I installed latching lift rings to replace the finger holes.

Thanks. The Triton can handle fairly rough seas but any boat like this that is relatively small and low freeboard is going to be less comfortable of motion and more vulnerable to extreme rough seas than something larger and heavier. I circumnavigated twice in this boat though so no reason not to with some care in fitting out and passage planning. I did avoid the rougher high latitudes by taking a westabout circumnavigation mostly in the trade winds and not making crossings during hurricane season.

+Rob Genins Headroom in the main cabin is 6'. The early model Alberg 30, which is a similar expanded design you can see on other videos here has 6'2". If you are in Brunswick sometime you can contact me through atomvoyages.com if you want to see the boat in person.

Sounds great... I am currently living in Yulee FL about 45min South of Brunswick... Would definitely like to see your work in person.... Thanks Rob

It was a windy day and the audio picked up the mooring lines creaking on their cleats.