Nicely done, Simon. Nothing better than having built and painted it yourself. Great video. Take care...

speaking from experience it's always a good idea, when using a craft knife to try and aim away from your body, although dried blood does look very much like rust if you wish to make your models look a bit delapidated

I hope you don't take this the wrong way but it rather refreshing watching someone who is human and a little nervous doing a kit. I am in a similar place about doing that sort of thing. You just need to focus on the feeling at the end of the labour of satisfaction. Perfection and pristine/factory fresh is over-rated. Model railways need the human touch. After all, humans built the full size things. Keep up the great work!

That kit must be early a half century old ad the detail still stands up well with modern models.

Excellent video Simon and am indeed far less daunted by the prospect of this sort of thing after watching, so thank you. Think they turned out very well, must have been very satisfying :) - Sim

Thanks for that Simon. Another good video. The wagons look really good. Another thing I will have to try.

Now I know I am not the only one that has to rip the glued parts apart to add something I left off because I don't read the directions. Nice video, I enjoyed wating you do it. Looks really good when done.

thanks Simon ,very intuitive, great job.

Great job. That kit looks fiddly.

Great video! Definitely going to give this a go if they are made in OO too! A tip for the decals is to use Humbrol Decalfix which is a lot better than water and gives a better finish!

Might get myself some of these for my layout

Kits are a good challenge provided they run well. Some kits are obviously better than others. May I provide a tip? Instead of using water, Humbrol Decalfix can give better results than water I have found. Water doesn't always pull the decal into grooves, and leaves a shine, unless you gloss the model first, then matt finish afterwards. Decalfix touched to the model, then used to loosen the decal should take away any 'shine' and pull the decal tight to the model - use the brush to position. Nice to see my fingers are not the only large fumbly ones.

They look great but very fiddly! LOL! great shot at the end!

Great to see the build from start to finish there Simon and good point about the non cost saving. I think I will wait until I have some paints and tools on hand first,

I have been looking (again) at your videos. Working with these hard to place nuts for many years, I put a cocktail stick through the nut and hold it in place with my index finger. The put the tip of the stick centrally over the bolt and release the nut ( don't move the stick). Then I use a 2nd cocktail stick to spin the nut until it catches on the thread. I use beheaded cotton buds instead if the internal nut diameter is a little larger. Hope this makes sense but it does work for me.

Good Job Simon-I bought a wagon kit today thanks to you-see how i go.

Very helpful, thank-you: so I can try acrylic paint directly on the plasic. But I'll use brushes since I haven't got the spray kit

Hello Simon...Great videos from the shed...! You can make a "Vertical Nut Driver" out of a small pin or pencil, with a little piece of double adhesive on the end, where the nut will stick. When the nut catches, it is easy to remove pin (and tape). Also a small magnet on a stick will do well. Slogan: The right tools is half the job. Jigs and fixtures are also half the job. Greetings from Denmark...Jakob.

They look great Simon.

Fantastic job Simon :-) I'm looking to make up some SR vans from the N gauge society kits

Very nice job Simon, I will check to see if they make them in 00 looks fantastic........Steve

Very interesting video Simon i enjoyed it,i make my own bodies and use cheap hornby railroad chassis,cheers Tony

Great job buddy, cheers Stu

Looks like your air pressure is set a little high. Tamiya pains spray OK with the Tamiya thinners or with Isopropol. The generic acrylic thinners don't work well.

ive used all purpose adhesive to glue it never botherd with the nuts

is the kit just the parts from the standard ready to run peco model

Hey Simon, Have you ever found a source for replacing the plastic wheels of these kits with metal ones ?

i just did a 7 plank open wagon-man you have to build the subframe as well-a lot harder to line up square and glue together.

would you not recount hand painting them then?

Little tip when putting tranfers on use small brush the position them. Thought you might like to see how im getting on with my N gauge layout but first is our 00 guage. Update on layouts HUNTINGTON TMD AND MELSWELLS 19/5/2014

A coat of Matt varnish after will fix everything in place permanently and not detract from the finish

Does the pastel rub off easily and go everywhere or does It stick and not rub off ?

I would try one of these myself, but I don't have an electron microscope...

I would recommend you to use matt white by Gunze (Mr.Color) - best white I have ever used, only one layer gives you nice and rich colour.

Amazing!

I've just built one of these :D

Nice job you have done there Simon

Just put that kit together today. Then found this vid, hehe.

Wow hey im from Weymouth.... Massachusettes xD

Great

Why don't you just use your airbrush for weathering the rolling stock like you did with the track?

Just wondering what pressure your airbrush compressor was running to? Sounded a bit too pressurised which might give issues with coating layers of paint. Normally set mine to 2-2.5 psi

Nice video, I did a guards van, but didn't paint it, and yes them nuts are a pig ,,,,

What scale is your electric train is

Use a nut spinner to fit the nuts it will make it easy.

Your video's are very 'woody' (see Monty Python's Woody words) , I like that

PLEASE STOP SAYING N GAUGE THE CORRECT TERM IS N SCALE!!!! PLEASE

The downside of N guage : it's too small