It's a great yak for what you're looking for. It'll also teach the kid about balance, as it's not the most forgiving yak if you take it too far to one side or the other.. One or two tips and it will likely never happen again.

That’s perfect. I was also thinking a good place to hook your stringer too. So many uses for those for sure.

I love when people actually watch whole videos! It certainly has its share of inadequacies, but they are all pretty easily solvable. That was the point of the video. If you haven't seen the follow-up videos, they can be found in this playlist: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6iietul1cmzlmQ.html Have fun with the new yak, Jimmy!

@@BarryP Yeah I watched a few of them last night… I’m gonna subscribe to your channel… Thanks again, have a great day.

@@jimmywilson1388 Thank you very much, Jimmy! I'm not sure what your primary purpose is for the yak, but since this is your first, I'd highly suggest getting out on a calm pond or small lake the first time out with nothing but a life jacket, a paddle and paddle leash. Leave nothing loose in the kayak. It might take some tooling around and testing of balance limits. Thanks for the sub! Enjoy the kayak and the channel!

Thanks, man. It means a lot, coming from you. As small as the footprint is on this yak, it was very important to make the most out of the available space, still have everything that I need nearby, and be able to pull off a 6-8 hr drift in relative comfort. As tall as you are (6'6"?), I think even you would be good to go in this yak, now that it's properly set up. I'm 5'10" and am nowhere near the end of the range of the footrests.

You're welcome, and thank you!

What size drill bit did you use to remove the rivets? Been a while I’m sure but also bought this one for 299 after this review and a bad experience at dicks sporting goods...tractor supply had them!

@@timp3072 Sorry I missed this, Tim. While I'm sure you for it figured out, 1/4", forward, high speed. It minimized prying off the old rests. Congrats on the new yak! Have fun this Spring!

Lets try to make kayaks a part of our outing this week, Jim!

Thank you, MoneyMarz! I truly appreciate the compliment. Keep an eye out for a 2 year review coming soon!

Good stuff, Chris! I have had the Castaway out on missions over 50 times this season in the Potomac watershed. The jagged rock floors of these rivers are not kind to the hulls of any vessel. I haven't exactly been kind to it, either... paddle-pushing over ledges with me in it, dragging it while wading through low water and just basically beating the ever-loving tar out of it. It has held up quite nicely, considering. In a few weeks, I'll be doing a season-ending video that will include my final impressions and a couple of last modifications that I made.

Generally a good idea, but there's no way to place the nuts as you described without cutting an access hole near the applicable areas. Then, what do you with the hole?

I must have missed that sale!! I've been watching this yak on their site since mid summer 🤦‍♂️

It's been pretty good on the modified Castaway 100, shootertg. I've got a pile of wonderful footage catching absolute pigs on it. Just beware of the balance-factor, specifically if this does become your first yak. Definitely take it out on calm water first, and get used to the paddling, reaching around to the gear and actual catches. I defer to the comment from Mindshift, below, and my response.

This is a pretty good way to go. It feels a bit cramped, at first, making the footrest upgrade essential. I pulled an 8hr shift on the South Branch Potomac with everything I regularly use, along with a pack lunch and a cooler with a few cold beers and got through the day okay. Maximizing the space on this yak is essential. What I did in this vid eliminated the out-of-box flaws. I've done few more mods since, and will be doing a "After One Month in the Castaway 100" vid in a couple of weeks.

The specific ones that I used don't seem to be available anymore. These have the same design type, though. smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0845G11LC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks, Hawkeye! I'm glad this helped! I did a LOT more to this yak and will be filming a final update to this yak series pretty soon, as soon as we can find a sunny day.

@@BarryP I will keep an eye out for sure!

Hang in with it for a while, Danny. It's a great learner and a great yak if you upgrade it. I don't know what kind of water you rely on, but it's fairly quick on lakes and is pretty decent on rivers with swift current. I'm absolutely in love with it on small-water rivers. It's so easy to land it in the planned spot and hook up as soon as you put down the paddle. There's definitely better drifters out out there. But, at this price, it's nearly impossible to beat, if you make it yours. One of the best things about it is, if you don't tip this thing, you can manage any yak out there.

Thank YOU, James!

That's great, Brian. I'm stoked that this was valuable to you! I will be doing a final review with all modifications pretty soon. It should cue up a couple more ideas for you. Enjoy the kayak! I sure have.

I think you cracked the case! Good eye!

The extra accessories only seem to come on certain variations of the kayak. I'm not sure why they didn't include those accessories on all versions of the form-factor that they sell to different vendors. Which variation do you have, Christopher? That might be useful info to those that view this vid. Thanks!

I'm glad I could be of some help, Zack. Enjoy it!

How is the stability bro? On extremely calm days I want to utilize it for my photography work

Yessir! Dalewood Woodworks helped crack that case, as well. Thanks for the info, Christopher!

Indeed! I eventually made a couple of leashes to accommodate two rods for each.

Hi James, Thanks for watching and the sub! There is an awful lot to unpack in your questions/comments. I think I can reduce things to a couple of reasonable answers: 1) Smooth water kayaking is an easy ask. A $400 budget is going to get you something that will likely be of reasonable weight for transport, will track fairly well and will give you many years of good times and great exercise. However, that budget will not buy a kayak that you'll be able to fly-fish in (assuming you don't want to fly fish from a sitting position). The weight alone of budget kayaks is probably the biggest enemy to standing. They tend to be very lightweight and generally do not have hull shapes that are conducive to weight shifts. In order to achieve those end-user goals, kayak mfgs use heavier material (all yaks are "hollow") and hull shapes that are designed for stability. It takes quite a bit more money and the means to haul around kayaks that are considerably more heavy. 2) You can still fly-fish with a budget yak. The keys are a willingness to get out of the yak and fish from low-water in a spot you''ve never fished (with or without waders). Regardless of the goal, kayaks open up a whole lot of water, whether you are in the yak when you actually catch the fish or not. Bottom Line: Have fun out there, but BE CAREFUL! Always wear a PFD. PLEASE DO NOT $kip that $tep. Be resourceful, and use a budget yak to get to the better fishing locations.

Thank you for the cudos, Pappy! We seem to find ourselves in a strange time where a lot of people are shifting family-time priorities back offline. All one needs to do is browse an outdoor section of a Walmart and see the fishing and biking sections completely cleared out. It's kind of a shame that it takes a pandemic for many to arrive there, but, it's also good that people are arriving there. I just wish it wasn't all happening in such a quick instant. The manufacturers are pretty overwhelmed and understaffed, and would barely know how to manage the sudden demand under normal circumstances. Along with their own parts and labor issues, they have to deal with transportation, state-to-state differences in commerce (that can change daily) and to manage things in a way to make sure they will be here for us next year. Keep your eyes peeled, Pappy... and keep the mods in mind, no matter what you end up with. I'm going to do a Part 2 in about a week. Small but seriously useful tweaks that I've done since this vid.

Thanks, Eric! Be sure to watch for the final mod vid, coming up as the 1yr mark approaches. A LOT more mods have been installed over time, particularly over this winter! I haven't filmed yet and plan to have an entire parts list in the description... so it's going to take a bit to put that one together. Thanks for watching!

I wouldn't be concerned about hook storage, as long as it's not cinched down on a car roof in the sun. LOL. As long as you keep from dragging the keel on boat ramps and asphalt and use common sense otherwise, longevity shouldn't be a problem. Of course, a kydex keel guard will prevent any damage you can do to it and are relatively easy to DIY. HOWEVER... I seriously suggest you have a look at the Pelican Mist 100xp. It's 10ft, the seat is much more comfortable, the hull design is far superior to the Blitz 100x, and the whole thing only weighs 3lb more than the Blitz. I have a playlist on the Mist here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d9CoapSKraqynnk.html If you have any questions about the Mist, I'll see you over there!

Tiny pilot holes, silicone inside the hole, drive screws, clean off excess, done. Rivets (unless specifically waterproof) will be MUCH more likely to leak. Have fun out there!

following

Sorry I missed this. All the hardware on the yak is installed with #10 screws of varying lengths (depending on what is being screwed in). Drill tiny pilot holes prior to driving the screws to avoid eating away excess material.

@@BarryP Thank you!

They are fine, man. Using #10 hardware, if you drill small pilots (so you don't peel away material) they hold up wonderfully. Granted, the dry, empty weight of this yak fully modded is still less than 50lbs. I'm not sure I'd use them in this manner on a 100lb yak, but they work perfectly in this instance.

Drill out the rivets with a 1/4" disposable drill bit. Carefully pry out the existing footrests. Silicone the holes left behind. When installing the new rests, drill small pilot holes about half the diameter of a #10 screw. Dab silicone on the holes before hand driving the screws. The pilots and hand driving will minimize material getting torn away as you drive the screws. I'm going to be modding a new yak over the next couple of days and will cover some of this to a certain degree in the vid series. Please keep an eye on the channel!

#10 with a 3/32 pilot. I think the length was about 1.5". Silicone the old holes!

I can set you up a parts list for the mounts, if that's what you're looking for. The actual cam gear is a bit convoluted and has changed quite a bit from when this vid was shot. I'm planning to do a vid series on this subject in the coming weeks. Let me know, specifically what you'd like to know, in the meantime.

@@BarryP yes the mount, cam gear, and battery pack, etc.... thanks!

@@jacr6521 There's no quick answer. I've decided to do a Kayak Fishing Camera Series that will include cams and mounts, mics, power, and editing. I've got quite a backlog of editing I need to do, but expect that series to begin in a couple of weeks. Stay tuned!

@@BarryP thanks!!!.👍🏼

Not often. It's kinda mothballed. I may sell it over the winter. These are better builds: Perception Outlaw Playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLLdVIS53jYPqVT1ZuMTe-KhulhvfhSqXn Pelican Mist Playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLLdVIS53jYPo5NssJQ5A0W84zmpAmoUxl Happy Birthday, Kath!

Not my only yak, but this is my go-to and my lightweight beater. I absolutely love it.

1/4". If you go any smaller, the material behind it may get a bit whacked as you pry them the rest of the way off. Get a cheapie bit, go high speed and expect to toss the bit when you're done.

Tiny pilot holes for #10 screws. Everything has held up perfectly.

I drilled the rivets out with a fresh 1/8" bit at high speed. Once the rivet is defeated, the stock footbeds should pry out with very little resistance. Definitely fill those holes with silicone. I measured for the new mount points and drilled 1/32 pilot holes on all them. The pilots keeps the material from getting chewed up as you're driving the new hardware. Don't overdrive! Dab of silicone in the pilot holes before screwing in #10 screws of appropriate length. Everything is solid and the undercarriage stays dry. Have fun with the yak. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

Hi Kevin. after having difficulty on the first one with a smaller drill bit, I switched out to a fresh 1/4" (knowing it would get chunked up), fan it forward in high speed. They popped right out and very little prying was necessary.

@@BarryP Thanks Barry. Same question I had. So you drilled the rivet out with a 1/4" bit, correct? And then did you use the hardware that came with the adjustable pegs to reinstall? Worried about size match...Thanks! Great video!

disregard. i see your answer on hardware below. thanks.

@@BenFromBoyland Good stuff... and thank you!

No problem, Rick. Have fun out there!

any updates on the other modifications?

@@SCTlunchbox Yes, but I am a bit behind on video editing. I'll probably have the follow-up out by the end of next week. Thanks for watching and subbing!

@@BarryP right on!! Just ordered the same model from Tractor Supply and going to mimic many of your mods. The seat is probably the one I am most curious about.

#10. Drill small pilots (about 1/2 of the thread diameter), dab some silicone on the pilot holes, hand drive the screws so they don't pull away any material. You'll never have a problem.

Take a nice, sharp 1/8" (no smaller) drill bit that you don't mind sacrificing. Beat the tar out of those rivets and they will come off clean. Silicone the holes and allow them to cure. The extra rivet crap will be in the yak and will make noise as you transport it. If that bothers you, add a front hatch.

The stock bungee leash sits pretty well above the water line, but definitely a good call to add one up top when you have gators trolling your yak. To be perfectly honest, I'd be a bit reluctant to even fish such water in a small sit-on-top kayak. Kudos to your fortitude! :-)

Thanks, Pete! I kinda thought that the extra cup holder wasn't necessary and takes away from the shallow internal storage space (they could have made that deeper without effecting the design). I've been using it for essential tackle, so I don't have reach back for the tackle bag as much. I also use it to store my water thermometer when not in use. I'll do a "After 30 Days" review when the time comes, but I attached dual-lock above the phone strap for the thermometer, and just drop the probe through one of the scuppers (as they are very close to the front of the console). I have a couple of split shot weights on the wire just above the actual probe to make sure it doesn't just dangle on the underside of the yak. If you do this, make sure to take a temp and pull it back in, as there is certainly potential for it hanging up in low water.

@camVan Thanks, camVan!

Check 5:10 into the vid. Use a cheap, fresh 1/4" bit and plan on the bit being pretty trashed by the time you have the footrests out.

Thanks, Kevin! The links to the actual mod parts (including the footrests) are in the description.

@@BarryP I've ordered the foot rest - the factory ones have definitely gotta go. The factory seat killed my back so I just threw a gel cushion on the seat back for now and it's working fine. How did your seat work? Do you have the link for it? Other than those two things I absolutely love it!

@@kevinjohnson8137 The ErgoLounge that I referred to is not yet available. As much as they are talking about it in the Q&A sections of the yaks on their website, I image it will be coming out soon. Somebody pointed out to me that the two (seemingly useless) pad eyes behind the seat are likely in anticipation for the ErgoLounge. Let's hope it shows up soon!

Eyeball 1/3 to 1/2 diameter once you have the screws in hand. The idea is to start the screws without tearing away material.

Thanks Again Barry. Just a little nervous about drilling into it

@@Brillo717 Go very small, silicone the pilot, and hand drive. You'll be fine, buddy!

Assuming you mean the lid of the console, Yancey... I would suggest reaching out to Pelican. They use that same part on three different kayaks, so they might have replacements.

#8 and #10, depending on the load responsibility of the screws. ie: #10 on handles, #8 on pad eyes, hatches, etc. I always drill a small pilot, so material doesn't rip away while driving the screws BY HAND. I dab a little bit of silicone on the pilots before driving. You'll never have a problem with any tear-aways or leakage. Have fun out there, Bob!

@@BarryP Thank You. I like your videos

@@Brillo717 Thank you, Bob! That means a lot!

@@Brillo717 Thank you, Bob! That truly means a lot!

A disposable 1/4" drill bit got the OEM rivets out pretty cleanly. Silicone the leftover holes, and you're in business.

#10 1 1/4"

It can be found here, Richard. Thanks for watching, and enjoy the yak! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNSSmdSV296qhXU.html

#10s with a small pilot should hold perfectly.

Hi Shane. All the equip used on this build is linked in the description.

Absolutely. Zero leaks nearly a year later.

What type of silicone is recommended?

@@jacr6521 Any outdoor-rated stuff should be just fine.

I’m not sure but I know sheet metal screws hold great for plastic and metal and other materials. I would recommend using those.

What Chris said. I used #10 1.25" stainless. With a tiny pilot, they are easy to drive and stay put. Make sure you silicone up the old holes before you mount the new footrests!

@@Ballistics_tK what about using rivets? I have a rivet gun and am buying the footpegs from amazon.Should I just use screws or the rivet gun?

@@Silvrluna i would still recommend using self tap screws. Make sure it’s stainless steel since it’ll be in water of course. Don’t want rusting. I would just use a drill or an impact drill. The kayaks are hard plastic so they can take a bit. The screws aren’t expensive at all. Use what Barry said in the above comment. It isn’t hard, the only difficult part is taking the old foot rests off. Putting the handles on and putting the new foot rests are quite easy.

Looking at the Strike, it actually does seem to be the same yak, only with adjustable footrests out of the gate. Unfortunately, that yak seems unavailable nationwide. They seem to have run out of them.

I got one of these at Dunham's a couple of years ago. I like it but the bottom is thin. I tightened the straps on my roof rack a little too much and it dented the bottom pretty bad. I am working on getting out the dents. I will be more careful next time. So far I like the weight and that there is room for my dog.

​@@pkm1060 No doubt! I would suggest using lashing straps instead of ratchets. This is a good lesson, regardless of the yak you have. But whatever caving/memory that can occur is mostly cosmetic will likely not effect performance. I have a pretty good notch that is now built into the Castaway from strapping a little too tight (even with the lashing straps) and subsequently leaving the yak on the roof on super-warm days. I honestly don't notice a difference. But this is certainly something I will mention in the final review. Thanks, Patrick!

The most aggressive stainless screws I could find. The handle screws are 3/4" and the footrest screws are 1 1/4". They were both #10 blisterpacks from Home Depot. I suggest a tiny pilot, so material isn't lost in the first few cranks with the screw gun.

Here is my first. There's another one coming: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNSSmdSV296qhXU.html

Thanks! It was a lot of fun to mod up! I've updated the description with links to the actual parts.

#10, 1", I believe.

@@BarryP thx

I love ya, Rosihan! I hope all is well!

There is only one difference out of the box. The seat is is a little better on the Blitz 100x, as it's a little more of a high-back than what comes on the Castaway. All the mods discussed here and in the Castaway playlist apply to the Blitz. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6iietul1cmzlmQ.html If you have any questions, let me know!

You can get a set of scupper plugs (the yak has four) for less than $10. It's a pretty standard fit. I put a pair in the back storage area under the basket, but leave the cabin section scuppers open.

After a little trial and error on the original vid, I went big (1/4") with the drill bit to drill out the rivets. It prevented having to pry so hard to free them up.

@@BarryP thank you. I saw the drill but wasn't sure if you were indeed drilling the rivets or something else. I didn't want to eff up the kayak. Thanks for responding

@@danielstielper5689 No problem! Have fun and be safe out there!

While Pelican has improved the way they do things over the last couple of years (and use screws on almost everything), they still use rivets on the footrests for some reason. It might seem like overkill, but learn from my experiment and go big when you drill them out. A fresh 1/4" bit will get it done a lot faster and easier than a 1/8" bit, and you won't have to pry as much. Then just silicone up the holes. Have fun with new yak, Dan!

@@BarryP Thanks Barry!

@@summerspinecenter My pleasure, Dan! I'm super happy that this vid has been helpful for both people that already have or are thinking about buying this yak.

@@BarryP Did you drill new holes for the adjustable rests? It doesn't look like the previous holes would line up.

@@justinchan2453 Yes! I siliconed the old holes, then piloted and siliconed the new holes

I can't help you with the depth, as I modified mine quite a while back. L = 14, W = 4

@@BarryP Hey thanks , looks like that will work for me. What did you do to the inside of the pod.

​@@nashguy2814 Man, you're putting me to work! LOL I cut out enough material with my Ryobi multi-tool to fit this dude in there: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010F6HNY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It dropped right in, snugly, with the right math. The dimensions of both the pod and the organizer bin are whacky, so I'd suggest making a stencil with cardboard before cutting. It might take a couple of tries to get it right. Much better to screw up on cardboard than on the yak. Once cut, I spot-superglued and put a pretty bead of silicone around the edges. It yielded about another 2" of usable depth, which is plenty for a small tackle box, some daily-driver lures and any other small nonsense you want to have close by. Bear in mind that the console top itself is not waterproof. You'll want to empty this out of anything you love when the yak is not in use. I'm working on a final mod vid and will try like hell to get the rest of the footage I need to record today to edit/release this week (hopefully). Stuff like this will be included in the vid.

@@BarryP Well that's interesting b/c I was thinking of cutting out that whole pod and drop a bag in there and possibly add a gasket to the lid and tie down clips on each side...lol I down sized my tackle for this particular yak to a Plano small box about 9'' long x 5'' wide , with the opening being 4'' wide obviously it won't sit flat , however if there is enough depth it might be able to sit in there angled a bit , I'll be using this yak on shallow rivers to the point if I fall over all I got to do is stand up...lol Just trying to get a visual on what I may or may not need to do , hoping my box will fit as I'm not going to a smaller box..lol Thanks for the feedback greatly appr it and the least I can do is sub you , don't worry about return sub as I am not active on my youtube acc. I will keep an eye out for your videos related to this yak.

@@nashguy2814 Good stuff, and thank you! You're doing the right thing buying a beater and saving that beautiful yak in your photo from the rock damage that certainly occurs in small water. If there's anything else you need to know, you know where to find me. Thanks again, Nash!

Thanks! It gets up to speed very easily and tracks very well, considering that it is so short and light (9'-6", 46lbs after modifications). My intention for this kayak is to get into (and stay in) tight spaces on small water (Upper Potomac watershed and small lakes). I don't think it will ever see the ocean. ;-)

@@BarryP how do you stay in place once your have reached your target area ? Thank you for the great video!!

A fresh 1/4 drill bit. With gentle pressure, high-speed the rivets into oblivion.

Barry P thanks. I just got my kayak yesterday and I’m already starting on some mods. Just barley sitting 10 minutes with the old footrests is making my makes sore

Barry P I was on my uncle’s tamarack lifetime previously, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/erCCaqh5u97WiY0.html. Take a look

@@BarryP will the 1/4 work for well nuts?

@@seancallahan792 I have no idea. I don't/won't use well nuts.

The product links are in the description, Breezy. This is probably the best and wonderfully inexpensive mod that you can do to this yak. It opens up the legroom beautifully.

You actually raise a very good point, Mindshift. Anything 9'-6" (regardless of width) doesn't have much of a footprint. It's a matter of real-estate and contact with the water. It is going to rock around a bit, until you learn to counter-balance your own movements. In fact, if you keep your body completely still and simply turn your head, this kayak will move. It's almost like surfing, skiing or snowboarding, in that small weight adjustments counter the changes in displacement that occur with a paddle stroke or reaching back for a rod. I really wish you'd taken it out for more than 45 seconds. It's pretty easy to get used to (and I am not an expert kayaker, by any stretch). I would recommend to anyone to take this out on calm, flat water a couple of times before doing anything major, and get used to the mechanics of a very short on-top before tackling a river or anything that can have wake. And make sure that anything you love is connected to the yak. Thanks for your input!

@@BarryP Outriggers

@@BarryP Totally get your analogous comment regarding the more subtle body movements and adjustments!! I related it to my own surfing ... its crazy.. give yourself a little time to get sycronized and it's effortless!! Thank you for that awesome comparison I'm going to pick mine up today and eventually my objective is to utilize it for some cool photography opportunities and it's going to be a great thing to put in the back of my mind I'm going to take it out obviously without my camera ..I have a tendency to get discouraged sometimes a little too quick with things your guidance really will help me thanks again brother

Parts list in the description.

They look really good

In the description, Andy. Thanks for watching.

@@BarryP thanks man

Links to the actual parts are in the description.

@@BarryP thank you I'm going have to look it up. I'm going to get the same kayak. Next .friday.

@@doug42780 Congrats, doug. Kayak fishing will change your life!

@@BarryP yes I hope so. Bank fishing sucks some times. Lol.

@@doug42780 The irony is, you will find yourself fishing to or from the bank more in a kayak. The major difference is having the access to shore-adjacent spots that you can't hit on dry land. Please stay in touch and let us know how it goes!

Screaming at a three year old video.... I hope you feel better, bud!

I'm not quite sure how to respond to that. Thanks?

YT analytics tells me that quite a few people don't watch the vid all the way through. I'm guessing you missed the end, bro. For some reason, these same complaints seem to be coming up today... despite the fact that I actually recommended it. Did I piss somebody off? Just asking.

It’s the fact I’m looking to purchase and this is what appear when it says review. Gotta under stand when you complain about it first 5 minutes that’s the meat the the video, the bulk of it if you will. Wasn’t gonna finish the vid cuz again, all you did was bash it A handicap kid with speech impediment made a good review. Check out his

@@garrettabcdefg4602 Do me a favor and watch the mods. Everything I did and said deserved context for the inexpensive mods that were to come. Impatience is an impediment on further development of society. It also seems to be the case with 10min YT videos. Fortunately, we can scroll through YT vids. :-) At any rate, I think you should buy the yak.

Yup. RamX is a little different, though. You can actually make things a lot worse with heat and the different chemistry of, say an ABS or PVC. It's almost like sticking a few traditional plastics in with a bag of Elaztech. They don't really play nice.

I'm not quite sure how to take this. My initial response is to suggest watching the vid all the way through?

That's what reviews are for. ;-)

Hmmm. Tarpon 120: $1219 Castaway bought on sale $300 + $85 in mods. $385. Also, 20lb lighter and 2.5ft shorter to get into tiny river pockets. Just sayin'.

you can get the tarpon for 800.00 on sale or cheaper used, just a thought than resell it for 385.00@@BarryP

Somebody that's uptight would just stay home. Have a nice day, HydroWash!

More to come!