+Eyewanders Foto I concur

This is the information I came for. Was worried about damaging that chain. Thanks!

Eyewanders Foto so meaning if I use the normal non metered prism, I can remove the prism with the lens attached right?

Correction: You can remove the prism with the lens attached or removed. You must remount the metering prism (only) with the lens removed, them remount the lens. Because there is no meter linkage between the lens and either the normal prism or the two waist level finders, this mounting sequence does not apply when using such finders. Also, the linkage system is different with the 67II, and the metering prism and lenses can be independently removed or mounted without concern.

This is good advice but I think the camera was made to remove the TTL prism whenever you want without taking the lens off, and I'm thinking at real life use back in the day when the cameras were used in a professional setup. You can see that by just looking at the design, the TTL shouldn't break the chain but, these cameras are old and mostly unserviced with old parts and I think that's the problem. If you have a look at the manual it does not warn the user of such thing. I do recommend of removing the lens first, but not because the camera has a bad design, like I said above the chain should not break, but because they are old and most likely not serviced. Just my opinion on it.

im about to buy one P67 with a 75mm lens, is a good choice in your opinion? most of the people use the 105mm

+santi piccini I have the 4.5 version which is very sharp but dim for focusing. If I could afford it I would get the 75mm 2.8 version for extra brightness. If you take portraits I would get the 105 2.4

@@neilpiper9889 If you take portraits, to get decent perspective of head shots, you need a longer lens than the 105mm (unless you like "camel nose"). The 165mm and 200mm are better choices. As for 75mm lenses, the newer 2.8 costs about 5x as much as the 4.5, annd it isn't that much better in terms of image results. The 4.5 is slow, but it is a hugely sharp lens.

On my model the pressure plate has a window on the back that confirms the 120 position with green letters. I think that is the best way to tell. But remember to change the counter to 120 as well.

follow the window , the pressure plate indicators are confusing , if the window says 120 your good to go

I think it is a great choice, but you should look at the 90mm lens too. I really love the 90mm f2.8, wide open the lens is dreamy. This camera shines with shallow depth of field, which is why so many photographers use the 105 and 90mm. Mine came with a 90mm which is great for me as I like lines just slightly wider than normal. It just depends on what you are photographing mostly, 75 might be a little wide for your only lens, but maybe not?

@@eagle112800 The 75mm 4.5 lens is a bit narrower than a 35mm lens on a 35mm camera. It is an excellent lens. The 90mm 2.8 (not the LS version) is by the normal comparisons a better lens than the 105. Given all of the hype on social media about the 105mm, the 90mm is probably cheaper as well. The 105mm is pretty soft at its widest apertures, bu a fairly good lens overall. I would not choose it if I was buying a new normal lens, but I wouldn't chuck it if it came in a package deal.

Sweet man it's a great camera! So mirror lock up is useful when you are taking shots on a tripod, particularly at slow shutter speeds. It stops mirror shake. So if you want to make sure things are as crisp as possible and you happen to have a tripod then I would definitely use it. Now on this camera there is a focal length shutter, a huge one, so there will still be shake from that that some people complain about.

+eagle112800 Thanks! I've got mixed opinions about this camera being good for hand held use. I'm going to test it out tomorrow during the day. I have yet to see the results, or image quality, but I did also hear it has superb image quality. again, everything is so far told to me, so I am excited to test it out myself!

+Jorge Zeraba keep it 125 or faster and you will be fine. I shoot a lot at 125th and it is really sharp. Just hold it close like you mean it, watch your breathing and press the release slowly and it will work great every time. Good luck, happy shooting.

Depends, I had a Leica that the shutter was so bad it actually had different exposure on one end, after a CLA it was a lot quieter, smoother, and the exposure is awesome now. So I am a huge believer in the CLA thing, but it is pricy, so I usually shoot with it and see how it goes for a while until I feel I have to have it done, not the smartest way to handle the problem but it is my cost benefit ratio. I also recommend going with someone who works on Pentaxs as sort of their specially. I sent my Leica to a Leica only repairman, I was really happy with the results over my local fix it all guy.

+eagle112800 Alright, thanks for the advice. Also, I have a 90mm lens, and it has and "S" and "U" setting on it. What do those settings do?

The meter is ok on mine, mostly hand meter.

+Jorge Zeraba no idea what the s or u does? I don't have that one mine. Might have something to do with the aperture preview, not sure.

+eagle112800 I researched it, s stands special, u for usual, it's for my 90mm leaf shutter, and I still am not exactly how that will affect my photos lol

If you don't have an external light meter that tells you the shutter speed and aperture, then I would get one on your phone if you can. Otherwise there is always the sunny 16 rule that will get you close.

The battery indicator light is the direction you should have the shutter speed you want selected

I am not sure if there is an easy fix, it likely needs a repair. There are camera repair shops that specialize in this camera and I would send it to one of them.

I have read the same thing, but I have done a lot of hand held shooting with this bad boy and have not had any problems my photos are really sharp. The photos of the dead trees on my flicker are hand held but he low light grass photo is on a tripod. If you stay above 1/125 you should be fine in my experience, lock up or not. I am glad I have the mirror lock up but 95% of the time I shoot hand held without it.

+eagle112800 Thanks man!

exactly the reply i was looking for

I used KEH.

I would like to use it, mine is just very very very difficult to turn on.

Did they get expensive, they were running about 300-400 for a beat up one that worked just fine.

Film Purist I went on eBay after this video and found a second generation in mint condition with a lens, caps, and a strap for $580. After a brief 10 minutes of thinking about it, it was mine lol. What can I say? I like being broke..

I think that it is my favorite camera at the moment, and if you have seen my other videos you know that I have a few film cameras. Pro tip - you can totally hand hold this camera at 1/125 of a second with a 90 mm lens and get great results.

Film Purist good to know, especially seeing as the negs I got back today from my shoot with my Zeiss Ikoflex 1C TLR rendered overlapping exposures! I guess a CLA is in need. At least I’m hoping that’s all it needs. Sadly, now that I have a 67 on the way, I probably won’t even use the TLR very much anyway. Now I need a landscape lens. The one I got has a 90mm. I want something wider, maybe a 50mm

This camera does not have a built in meter, so yours might not have it is a non metered prism. If you do have a meter then it is on the shutter speed dial (the little silver window). I have a metered prism, but I don’t use the meter because the switch is broken. So I use the ISO window to remind myself what film I have loaded.

Film Purist it seems i don’t have it either but i have a light meter i should be good?

Yes, I just use an external light meter. There are phone apps that are okay, some handhelds meters that are good and some that are really great.

lol